CV Boot

**kenholland** · 10-3-03, 11:11

Blasted CV boot has split and has covered the passenger wheel with grease.

Before I go trotting off to Mazda for a replacement boot set (and possible fitting) any advice from the panel here?

I thought I read somewhere about a universal wrap-around set available from Halfords that didn't involve removing anything, but can't find any reference to it now.

Ken

**Asterix-TG** · 10-3-03, 11:22

I can't say much (due to being an ignoramus) but when mine was Serviced and MOT'd a few weeks back it was picked up for the CV Boot as well.

The garage replaced it as a matter of course and was dead cheap.

They fitted the Scorpion box (I bought) - full service - fitted some green stuff pads (I bought) - MOT - replaced the front number plate (cracked) - replaced a bulb and the CV boot - £102 inc vat.

Did a good job too. Bargain.

James.

Not much help really but work is quiet so I thought I'd have a chat.

**cruisemad** · 10-3-03, 11:23

Yeah you can get split boot kits but i personally dont like them as they dont last as long. On mine I used universal boots and didnt find it that bad a job. Think i had a quote from mazda at 50 quid per boot plus fitting plus vat but it was a long time ago so dont quote me on that.

Kyle

**G-Force** · 10-3-03, 11:31

That would be me Ken

Ive used them for years ..... There reputation say half aslong as a proper boot but mine have lasted for longer than ive owned a car for ( 2 years ish )..

There about 14.99 ish from halford - DONT CUT IT TO SIZE as per the instruction - THEY ARE WRONG ( sorry to shout but its important ). Instead remove the old one - with a knife, then compare the two, generally just cut one ring fromt eh end of the universal one and thats it ...

Garages will charge you about £60 to fit a OEM part - The universal one takes 10-15 mins and works just aswell - basically you just glue it together with some cool glue and squirt in the new CV grease.

Regards

G

**BeDlaM** · 10-3-03, 11:48

Yep Ken

G has it right there, i have used universal split boots for years and i always hear people saying they are crap, i guess it depends on who make the ones you get.

And G is also right about NOT cutting the boot before fitting, the way we do it, is fit the split boot on without cutting and then cut once you have it over the outer CV joint, although the last one i used a few weeks ago, was nearly an exact fit can't remember make.

Or you could invest in a CV Cone, that slips over a CV joint and buy the right boot turn it inside out and grease the cone slip the boot over and hey presto (yea right pain in the a$$ them things

).

Andy

**kenholland** · 10-3-03, 11:55

Cheers G - I think I'll give that a try then (sorry Kyle, needs must mate...) I can aways get the job done properly next service time.
Found the 'howto' on FPOC - can't say I relish doing the full job myself!

Quote:

Or you could invest in a CV Cone, that slips over a CV joint and buy the right boot turn it inside out and grease the cone slip the boot over and hey presto (yea right pain in the a$$ them things ).

I've heard that the top off a nicked road cone does the same job Andy

As for tonight, I think it's a slow gentle drive home instead of the usual dash down the dual-carraigeway.

Cheers again,
Ken

**Willr** · 10-3-03, 12:02

Ken,

My CV boot split a week after I put new CV joints / boot in, so have just replaced it.
I really wouldn't recommend the split ones, I've used them on other cars and they've only lasted a few weeks. My theory is if a jobs worth doing...

I would use a cone and a nice rubber boot, at least you know it (should) last... Oh, and don't get a 'motaquip' boot, mine only lasted.... etc.

Should only take half-an-hour or so, as long as you don't have the same problems I did getting the bl@@dy thing out of the hub!

Will

**kenholland** · 10-3-03, 12:21

Quote:

Originally posted by Willr
Should only take half-an-hour or so, as long as you don't have the same problems I did getting the bl@@dy thing out of the hub!

There-in lies the problem Will. I've never heard of anyone managing to do the job in less than a couple of hours - and that's with experience and all the right tools.

I'll be following written instructions mate 'cos I'm a desk pilot these days. My days of pulling hubs off ended years ago.

(In fact, I think the last time I did just that was helping my Dad with his Dart back in the 70's)

Ken
feeling ever older...........

**cruisemad** · 10-3-03, 12:27

Easiest way to remove the drive shaft from the hub is to remove the two bolts securing the hub to the shock. Remove the brake pipe clip and possibly the caliper if its really tight and pull the hub towards you (obviously remove the hub nut first). Means you dont have to worry about bottom ball joints. Its tight but it does work. Personally I agree with Willr although i recon possibly an hour just to be on the safe side.

Kyle

**Asterix-TG** · 10-3-03, 12:29

Quote:

My days of pulling hubs off ended years ago.

Is that an euphemism?

I used to be a vehicle mechanic in the Army and to be honest I have no intention of doing anything more simple maintenance to my car. The engine and mechanics in a modern car is a different planet to your average military vehicle. They were made so robustly and the mechanics and engineering are so simple because they need to be. We were trained how to melt down and cast certain parts if you ran out in the field! Most mechanics nowadays are fitters and nothing more. They plug the car in and are told what to replace. They don't mend or repair anything. We used to tune up the old petrol Landys with half a broomstick to listen to the engine and twist the dizzy until it sounded about right. Same with some of the APC's that had low compression (less stressed) Jaguar engines. Wish we could still do that now - it would save a fortune.

waffle, waffle, in my day....

James.

**kenholland** · 10-3-03, 13:01

Quote:

Originally posted by Asterix-TG
Is that an euphemism?

For what?

Just spoken to Mazda (well, it's Friday afternoon - what else am I donna do in the office?). They do the original boot kits for £32. I'm going to put the glue-its on for now, providing I can get one, and get them to do the job properly when they service the 6 in 2000 miles time.

Shame my new disks haven't arrived yet - I could do both jobs at once...

Ken

**Willr** · 10-3-03, 13:03

Quote:

Easiest way to remove the drive shaft from the hub is to remove the two bolts securing the hub to the shock. Remove the brake pipe clip and possibly the caliper if its really tight and pull the hub towards you (obviously remove the hub nut first). Means you dont have to worry about bottom ball joints. Its tight but it does work. Personally I agree with Willr although i recon possibly an hour just to be on the safe side.

Good in theory Kyle, but after smacking seven shades of sh*t out of it with no movement, i took the CV off the drive shaft with the hub still attached and smacked it with a sledge for a while.

Came off in the end!!!

Will

**cruisemad** · 10-3-03, 13:14

Yeah I have had similar problems in the past aswell. Thats assuming you can remove the hub nut.

Kyle

**Asterix-TG** · 10-3-03, 13:22

Ken,

Those discs look well funky - Are they due before the meet?

James.

**kenholland** · 10-3-03, 13:28

Should be, James.