Me and a friend have just given my car a full servive including cam belt. When refitting the cam belt tensioner we noticed that it was covered in oil. Before starting the car we checked the press we'd used to compress the tensioner and was pleased to see that it was leaking oil under heavy compression. I'd assumed that it had leaked onto the tensioner. The car is running fine but I have read that the tensioner should be checked for leaks. Do you think it's worth fitting a new one, it's unlikely that the press and tensioner were both leaking? I think the probe one is the same but about £130. What will happen if the tensioner is leaking?
yes, it's an expensive item... I would imagine not a lot of damage it it went.. (if any) but you are would be stuck if it went, and the embarassment would be colossal.. (especially from here)
John
"A bus station is where a bus stops; a train station is where a train stops; on my desk I have a work station." Cardomain pageUK626Club UK & Ireland Member of the Year 2004, 2006 and 2007
Yep a workmate does the same job everytime. Ive done mine about 6 times at home now and its becoming rather funny. I really must dig out my vice and set it up somewhere but thats after i finish sorting the garage.
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If your cambelt tensioner goes you will get belt slap. this will sound like a very heavy metalic knocking at tickover and will get quieter as you rev the engine. The clatter will come from the front center of the engine and is not to be confused with HLA noise (a light ticking noise at tickover) or friction gear wear on the rear camshaft gear (this removes backlash between the front and rear cams) which gives a louder tapping noise than HLA but over a larger rev range.
If your tensioner goes then do not drive the car as you will eventually break the cambelt.
Changing a cambelt is really easy to do on the V6 and takes about 90minutes from start to finish. A cambelt is around £30 to buy.
When my cambelt tensioner went I thought to myself It could be repaired. So I simply converted it to a manual tensioner by drilling and tapping the bottom M6 and threading in a M6 bolt and locknut. When re-fitted all I had to do was screw in the bolt to tension the belt then lock it up with the nut. Result a perfectly quiet engine for the cost of a bely and a 50p nut& bolt
The noise from a worn friction gear only appears at idle speed... and is more of a rattle than a tapping noise.
HLA noise can be heard over most of the rev range.
John
"A bus station is where a bus stops; a train station is where a train stops; on my desk I have a work station." Cardomain pageUK626Club UK & Ireland Member of the Year 2004, 2006 and 2007
I am thinking of saving money by changing my own cambelt...give us a difficulty factor guys...1-10...1 bing easy etc. oh and tools..anything special required.?
Seriously, if you are reasonably mechanically minded, and have a decent set of sockets, spanners and screwdrivers, and a jack to support the engine, then it's not too bad a job, so long as you follow the instructions...
Which I can send you if you wish.. need.. must..
John
"A bus station is where a bus stops; a train station is where a train stops; on my desk I have a work station." Cardomain pageUK626Club UK & Ireland Member of the Year 2004, 2006 and 2007
I think I can manage it, in fact, I could go buy a whole socket and spanner set, plus the belt and still save money if I didnt have them already. I would appreciate it if you could get those instructions to me buddy.
I had my cabelt replaced last year and also the tensioner was leeking oil, i was advised it was not a good idea to put the old back so i suffered the 130 notes for a new tensioner. 90MINS TO DO THE CAMBELT FROM START TO FINISH flipping nora I must have been turned over then for 4 and a half hours labour, but i don't think so asking others..
Regardless of how much time it takes to do a garage has a set book time for the job. I have a freind who can change a front wheel drive escort clutch in 25 minutes from start to finish but he still gets the 2 hour labour charge.
I have a question, and some may laugh!! But what does HLA stand for??? Ive heard a lot about them, and how they tend to wear at about 100k. But what is it? Mine has done 103k, and is a little tappety. I was told by an ex mazda worker this is normal when cold. Needs a cambelt soon (he will be doing it. He said to get a ford probe belt - much cheaper! And that i should have the hydraulic cambelt tensioner replaced while im at it, although they are about £100!). And my rear rocker cover gasket is leaking into a plug wel .
Needs a serious overhaul! What gaskets are needed for that? The intake and rocker i presume (as its the rear rocker!! had to be didnt it!!) Oh well, i knew buying a fwd V6 wasnt gonna be cheap!!
"A bus station is where a bus stops; a train station is where a train stops; on my desk I have a work station." Cardomain pageUK626Club UK & Ireland Member of the Year 2004, 2006 and 2007
look for threads on here re flushing and oil changes. a lot of hla noise can either be reduced or totally shhhhh'd by a good engine flush and regular oil changes.
Mike
p.s if doing an oil change, make sure u use a mazda oil filter.
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