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#661 (permalink) |
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I turned up the boost on maz to give it a go with the new high flow exhaust and, well, DAMN! did that make all the difference. I put my foot down flat and it spun, not hop, spun and did a screech on the regain of traction and was pretty gutsy lol. Not to mention it sounds like a car in fast and the furious lol. Ive got the boost turned up to high though its hitting boost cut and my Blitz DC tells me I spiked to 0.94bar (1bar = 14.5psi - I think anyway ). But the turbo does sound cool spinning its guts out. I said wont be long before I throw ninja stars out my ehxaust or leave half of my tranny behind!
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R32 - RB Goodness
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#663 (permalink) |
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so do i... but i cant get mine to make the nice pretty noise that skyrines have
oh well, im gonna keep my old motor and do it up with a 12v head and an EMS ecu... should be fun... HOPEFULLY im gonna get a chance to put this new motor in this weekend so i can drive my precious again... every time i go to get the other car someone rings up and says they need help with something... grrrr... oh wells... i'm gonna be running the stock turbo (if it's any good) for a while, untill i get a nice Intercooler kit for my baby... |
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#664 (permalink) |
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Hi everyone, ive got a slight problem thats more anoying than anything else.
I'm finding my clutch is sticking in about 60% after i change gear, i can lift it with my foot and it springs back up. if i pump it up out of gear (at the lights for example) it will be fine for about a min or so then it go's back to holding in 60% of way. if i leave it half pushed in i can still push it in the last 40% and change gear each time (also it does not slip the clutch at all) I have bleed the clutch the way i think im supposed to but it hasn't helped. Also i dont leak any clutch oil anywhere and the level does not go down. The way i bleed my clutch:correct me if im doing this wrong, pump up clutch so its firm and springs back each time, hold down clutch flat to floor while someone releases the clutch bleed nipple and lets out the oil, close nipple before releasing the clutch again, repeat this 4-5 times whilst making sure you do not run low of fluid in the clutch res. Hopefully ive just over looked something easy ![]() |
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89 GD 626 TURBO
![]() Mods-Woo(Hoo) Chip, T/S Cabin B/Controller, T/S BOV, Ram Air, K&N Panel Fillter, MOMO D Wheel, White/Indiglo Gauges, Turbo Timer, 21/2' Exhaust, MP3, Custom Door Pods, 12' Sub, WRX Brakes, 17' RJR Racers, Kings Superlows, KYB Shocks & Rear Strut Brace, |
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#665 (permalink) |
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Your bleeding the clutch method sounds fine.
Do you mean the clutch pedal itself is sticking at 60% down? Id say either the return spring on the clutch pedal (inside the pedal box) has broken, or youve split your clutch fork and there isnt enough hydralic return pressure to return the pedal. If your clutch master or slave are bypassing you'll have the same problem. Usually when they bypass they leak though. You'll know if youve got a split clutch fork because in a few weeks time you wont have any clutch left at all. It will permanately be engaged and you wont be able to get gears. My money is on return spring. |
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#667 (permalink) |
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CLICK!l (Rev Problem With The Tx5? What Could It Be?)
please have a look at that help would be very good!so, do our cars have a CEL light? so i can read the OBI I codes? and do they also tell for a Miss firing? because I think thats what my car is doing again! Wounderful! i would take it to fords but that costs way to much! EDIT: Also, i have done 187km and driven like a grannie, i had a full tank of petrol now i have less then a half. | | \ | | | The "\" Line is where it is.. So i have no idea, Selva you should be able to help ![]() Last edited by Redmx_tx5 : 9-10-07 at 4:04. |
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CAR: KLDE TX5 \\
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#668 (permalink) |
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Good to hear you got that sorted out.
Ive got a bit of work for myself this weekend coming up. The alternator bracket on my FE3 broke. I think this is because the rotor in the alternator is out of balance and it shakes the crap outta it....... (mental note, fix alternator now...) Spent ages fabricating the bracket and as usual, it broke on the 1 bit I didnt reinforce... |
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#670 (permalink) |
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the clutch has been like it for 4 weeks now...... after i pump up the clutch its fine for a while. how do i check the spring and or the fork? i take it you mean the fork that holds the thrust bearing.......? can i see it if i remove the rubber air channels from the bell housing?
Also Friday night i spotted a 626 like mine in white with a heaps modern kit on it, near the cross rd bridge on south rd. Anyone else seen it b4.....? looks ok hes gone to a bit of trouble i would of thought. |
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89 GD 626 TURBO
![]() Mods-Woo(Hoo) Chip, T/S Cabin B/Controller, T/S BOV, Ram Air, K&N Panel Fillter, MOMO D Wheel, White/Indiglo Gauges, Turbo Timer, 21/2' Exhaust, MP3, Custom Door Pods, 12' Sub, WRX Brakes, 17' RJR Racers, Kings Superlows, KYB Shocks & Rear Strut Brace, |
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#672 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
The return spring is in the pedal box. Its right up where the clutch pedal pivots. You might have to take some trim off to see it. I know in my AR there is a piece of trim. Funnily enough my mate has an AT telstar that did sort of the same thing the other day. His clutch pedal got stuck at the bottom and wouldnt pop back up again. Funnily enough he reefed it up again and it hasnt done it since. I know the clutch fork on that car was good, because it was about a week after I reinstalled his engine...... |
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#675 (permalink) |
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yeah i must agree with TX5Turbo, mine used to do that too psi... but it seems to have freed itself... i got a spare slave cyl now if you want it... but i want it to replace my leaking one... let me know if you want it, i'd rather recon mine anyway
and REDMX i'd have to say coil, but i dont know alot about them so i cant be too sure, from what i recall the V6 has a built-in coil (inside distributor) however that may not be the case, as i know you aren't up north like me so i cant suggest any good mechanics, also your if you've only done 200kms on half a tank i'd would say possibly one or more leaking injectors and/or the vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator may have a crack in it causing an idol problem and the over fueling... but then again, it could also be your transmission not disengaging properly... that'll cause excess fuel burning and the stuttering at the lights... however, like i said, i dont know too much about the AX/Y series so dont quote me on it... i suggest, as always, go see Evan at Kliens Automotive up here in salisbury as he has all the gadgets and bull[shizzle] and knows how to use it... but then again you're not up here unbfortunately... now as i recall you replaced your spark plugs and leads correct? so it shouldn't be them... but check they are plugged in correctly again, if not you may have to squash the loose ones a bit with a pair of pliers, and i mean a BIT as they are soft it shouldn't be too difficult (there is a metal rap-around clip inside the plug end... squash that ONLY)... maybe a faulty tps aswell (dont ask me how to check as im not too sure, i believe it to be a 5v a neutral and a 12v line, please correct so i know ), a quick way to check for vacuum leaks it to get a can of start-ya-bastard or aerostart and spray it on the vacuum lines and joiners, if the revs pick up in a spot, renew the line... and im all out of ideas right at this point in time, sorry i dont know any of the error codes or how to check them but that will tell you if there are any faults, ie; TPS, O2 etc etc...well yet again i haven't gpt my car back on the road as i had to help my old man with his go-karting up at barrossa sat arvo/night and i was too tired sunday... and i cant this weekend because im off to sydney to see Nine Inch Nails again W00t!!! but i have to get my car done the weekend after as i need the weekend after that to head down south to my mates 21st... and then i can start to pay off my damn depts... fkn cars! lol...so ANYWAY... i think that's about it... cyas... |
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