Forced Induction Anyone?

[jmoore]

p.s in engineering we always refer to wire in terms of gauge, unless it is a specific design in which we refer to diameter.

[NiN^_^NiN]

Originally Posted by jmoore

p.s in engineering we always refer to wire in terms of gauge, unless it is a specific design in which we refer to diameter.

Always been refered to by gauge at the auto elecs and audio guys i go too

[Turk]

I ended up buying a sealed battery for peace of mind. Man it starts up so quick now, I swear it cranks before I turn the key. And yer, 0 gauge looks mean .

Just got my fuel pump today as well. I cant install it without a fuel pressure regulator yer? I would like to get it out of the way now....

[Fitzyb]

you have a FPR, just not an upgraded one, against a 255 it will be fine, couple of people with run the 255 with the stock FPR, she'll be right mayte

EDIT: Use the stock filter on the pump, the walbro ones tend to be pretty ghey and not work to well

[fredio54]

once again, auto, audio, trade != industry.

give triangle cables a ring, thats an ozzy company that i used to deal with, you buy your cable from them based on mm2 of copper, you do it that way because thats what you need, not a size. industrial cables, as in non pretty heavy duty ones, often have harder thinner insulation, and thicker strands (still flex).

the guage used in audio is usually the awg scale, which was linked to from your link.

it shows 4awg as having 21.2mm whereas if you buy "4 guage" from dick smith, its under 18... its the same with a lot of the flashy audio crap. that and the plastic is not very good with chemicals, just looks good with neons and other wanker [shizzle] like that.

i'm not arguing that what you have used is no good, or not big enough, just that its an inaccurate way of saying it, whether it should be or not...

for the record, according to the awg page 0 guage is 53.5mm, which is more than what i used. in practice you may have recieved less. perhaps link your suppliers, so we can see what you actually got for you zero guage money.

my supplier was BOC, and heres what the stiff rugged [shizzle] looks like :

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...4/100_4182.jpg

note the size of the battery post relative to the insulation

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...4/100_4207.jpg

for industry, in mm squared.

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...4/100_4208.jpg
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...4/100_4209.jpg

thats some audio spec "8 guage" there next to it, roughly 7mm2 when it should have been about 8 or so...

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...4/100_4214.jpg

but i'm sure its enough for a couple of fuel pumps, a megasquirt feed, and an alternator charge lead ;-)

link your brands so we can see what you got for your cash :-)

fred.

[Turk]

JB Hi-Fi - Car Audio
Thats where I got it from, no links to products. I used to work at Lifesstyle like I said, they charge about $60 a metre retail for 0 gauge audio cable(ladi da Rockford brand), looks exactly like what I bought for $15 a metre. Jaycar had 2 gauge, it wasnt pretty, plain black, for like $13 a metre.

And yer like you said Fredio, fuel pump, Megasquirt, alternator and some headlights this wire should be fine. My new battery kicks ass as well, its got a charge light indicator on it....flashy .

Yer I know I have a stock FPR, but was just wondering if it could return all that extra fuel that the fuel pump gives it. So stock FPR and fuel pump is ok, heard lots of people saying yes and no in 2nd gen FI.

Oh yer and Fredio, if you saw my setup, you will see that it works, but is by no means pretty. Mismatched colour electric tape, big clamps etc. And I used 4 gauge for the ground from battery, only has to travel about 15 cm and saves me buying another fat expensive terminal.

[NiN^_^NiN]

Originally Posted by sik_turk

I ended up buying a sealed battery for peace of mind. Man it starts up so quick now, I swear it cranks before I turn the key. And yer, 0 gauge looks mean .

Just got my fuel pump today as well. I cant install it without a fuel pressure regulator yer? I would like to get it out of the way now....

Nice work i got a optima Yellow Top for base price cause my audio guy loves my carpc setup

I do need to redo where my battery is right now it's in a tray with clamp in the boot and the false floor JUST fits but it seems the L shaped rod that holes the battery does tends to slip out every few weeks cause of all the bumps i go along on my way to work im gonna try and go for a fiberglass box and seal that and have a vent tube altho i have a gel/sealed type battery im told they still do vent.

My problem with the battery is i have nothing to bolt it onto as it's right at the edge of the floor where the stock subwoofer use to go so im gonna have to do some type of shelf and cut into the plastic on the side

[Turk]

I drilled 2 holes into the floor and bolted it down tight as a mofo. I have those hooks as well (US mx'6 dont have them?) but I knew that they wouldnt be up to the job So I got hardware stuff. ALso I came to the conlcusion that Hardware house stuff isnt as sturdy as car manufactor bolts nuts etc.

Man I bought the sealed battery because I wouldnt need to seal everything up, you saying now I still have tooo??? That sux . And yer I didnt need to go all out with a optima, I dont have a sound system anymore. I was going to sell my Rockford Amp as well, but I dont think I will get close to what I paid for it now 1 year later (even though it is in perfect nick) that model is just a bit cheaper now. I bought when it was RRP $700 now it is RRP $400.

[NiN^_^NiN]

Originally Posted by sik_turk

I drilled 2 holes into the floor and bolted it down tight as a mofo. I have those hooks as well (US mx'6 dont have them?) but I knew that they wouldnt be up to the job So I got hardware stuff. ALso I came to the conlcusion that Hardware house stuff isnt as sturdy as car manufactor bolts nuts etc.

I don't have any floor where my battery is sadly i have 2 scews holding the plate to the floor but i really need to build a lil shelf to hold the battery

Originally Posted by sik_turk

Man I bought the sealed battery because I wouldnt need to seal everything up, you saying now I still have tooo??? That sux . And yer I didnt need to go all out with a optima, I dont have a sound system anymore. I was going to sell my Rockford Amp as well, but I dont think I will get close to what I paid for it now 1 year later (even though it is in perfect nick) that model is just a bit cheaper now. I bought when it was RRP $700 now it is RRP $400.

No u are fine im just told they do still vent just nothing to worry about compared to normal batteries.

Im just gonna stick to the safe side as i have a plug for the drain for the antenna i can easily use

[Turk]

Originally Posted by NiN^_^NiN

I don't have any floor where my battery is sadly i have 2 scews holding the plate to the floor but i really need to build a lil shelf to hold the battery


No u are fine im just told they do still vent just nothing to worry about compared to normal batteries.

Im just gonna stick to the safe side as i have a plug for the drain for the antenna i can easily use

Ah ok about the venting thing.

Yer what is this false floor thing? I drilled my box into the chassis, right above the muffler and exhaust.

[NiN^_^NiN]

i designed a false floor so i could have a subwoofer and amp with still being able to fold my 2 rear seats down to put things in

What i did was a used a 12" sub and use the spare wheel well for the depth and put the spare wheel at the back ontop of the floor then built a floor ontop of it so it's a false floor cause there is space under it one for the wheel other for the carpc and ps2

Thats the almost finished floor (its all done just need to wire up the amp and sub now the vinyl has been wrapped over the 2nd piece of floor)



And this is whats under the floor (this is from when i was first making it so the pics abit old)


I designed it so i can easily remove the wheel and tools if i get a flat and i can also take the whole floor out in 1min for track days

[Turk]

That looks very conveniant to have with the sound system. Nice work. I always so the false floor thing in your sig, and never knew what it was.

Also I might be getting a N13 Nissan Exa CA16DET for free. Rego finished 3 days ago and has a blown turbo, engine in top condition. T25's are easy to get and the car is immaculate other wise. Future project after the Mx-6.

In order of likeliness

1. Rally car - Perfect lightweight, roll cage and tires bassicaly only cost .
2. Circuit/hill climb car - A bit more involved obviously (brakes, suspension)
3. Re-rego and sell - Definately be able to make some money
4. Re-rego and drive - Good low fuel daily driver .

Ive got easy access to a car trailer so no problem there. How does toughness go when it comes the the CA16det's. Fairly sturdy engines im guessing?

[Mr. MX6]

if you just pay the rego online even if it is 3+ weeks late you will still get the sticker..does it still have the plates?

[Turk]

Originally Posted by Mr. MX6

if you just pay the rego online even if it is 3+ weeks late you will still get the sticker..does it still have the plates?

It does have the plates still. The car is sitting at my mates mechanic shop, customer dont want it no more and owes my mate money anyway.

in NSW A car can be unregistered for 3 months without penalty(needing to get a blue slip), my mechanic mate told me that it is now 6 months without needing blue slip, so no rush for rego. It has only been out for 3 days.

I couldnt afford rego right now anyway, Ive got more than enough money to finish turboing my car, but I still need new tires now (stupid control arm bushing ruining my $300 tires) and then coilovers for the mx6. The Exa project (if I get it) will start in about 2-3 months.

[NiN^_^NiN]

I'm not a fan of the EXA cause of how [shizzle]ty they do when u have a small bingle they are deathtraps altho i know the later exa is abit better