Alright, since this has been answered many times, and there are still new people who come in and ask time and time again, and because I wrote a whole "How To" with pictures explaining what is needed in the *New Members Forum* because someone asked, and when I pushed *post* it all disapeared but the fact that I spent my entire lunchbreak at work doing so is besides the point
I've decided to condense everything into a nifty little "how to" in an attempt to help the lazy people.
So here it goes:
First you need to find an 87-88 Ford ThunderBird TurboCoupe, it looks like this:
The turbo that you'll need to find is a Warner Ishi RHB52W that looks like this:
Notice that the inlet has been taken off to protect the innocent. The curved T Bird inlet will do you NO GOOD:
You have to make one
As seen here:
Here is a side view:
Like I said, the actual turbo (meaning the compressor side, center cartridge, and turbine) are a Borg Warner Ishi/IHI Product. The center section is almost exactly the same as the VJ11 with the exception being the oil inlet. The coolant inlets/outlet are in the same location as is the oil return fitting.
BUT, the exhaust side of the T Bird is a T3 style exhaust side and is completely useless if you want something that bolts right in *plug and play*
Most people will take only the compressor housing and wheel off:
If you do this, you'll need to send the wheel as well as your turbine to a turbo shop for balancing. Most reputable shops will do this without asking for your firstborn child. My local shop www.turbocity.com
does it for $35:
ONE VERY IMPORTANT THING TO KEEP IN MIND WHEN GETTING A T BIRD, you HAVE to at least remove the compressor side before leaving the junkyard. The reason is that you have to inspect it for damage. All of your time will be wasted if you spend it taking the whole turbo off only to pay for it, get it home, open it up and find that the compressor wheel has rubbed the housing rendering both parts useless:
So, once you've removed the compressor housing and found both parts to be in good/acceptable working order, you have a few options.
1) Take the compressor wheel off with an 8mm ratchet. The nut itself is reversed thread and a simple way to get it off while it is in the car is to wrap a piece of cloth around the wheel as you turn the nut. You will wrap the cloth in the direction that you're turning (clockwise) and the fins will dig into the cloth. I suggest a soft cloth like cotton from a T Shirt. The cloth will wrap around the wheel as you turn and you'll get to a point where the wheel can't turn anymore, and the nut will give you the money shot by letting loose. The proper way to do it
, is to remove the exhaust housing from the center section and use 10mm socket on the exhaust turbine and an 8mm socket on the compressor nut. You will then take the compressor housing and wheel home, send in your turbine and wheel for a balance, and buy a rebuild kit while you're at it.
This thread will help you out:
2) You can forget about doing it the right way and do it the cheap way provided that the turbine and innards are still in good shape (which you won't know untill you install it)
Instead of taking the compressor housing and wheel off, take the whole turbo off:
remember when I said that the exhaust side is a T3 and is useless? Well that is because it is. Seperate the center section and compressor side from the exhaust side but leave the compressor side and center section intact. You'll do this by removing the 4 13mm bolts that hold the L plates which hold the center section to the exhaust housing.
The two closest to the coolant inlet and outlet are going to give you trouble as the bolts are longer than the space allowed:
This makes it very difficult when trying to remove and is the same for the VJ11 and the T3 exhaust side. You simply remove the two front bolts and what you can of the two rear, remove the L plates, and give the exhaust section a coupel taps with a rubber mallet to start seperating it from the center section. Once it starts to seperate, you will have enough room to unthread all of the bolts and seperate the exhaust side from the center section.
Since the TurboCoupe turbine and VJ11 turbine are both RHB52, and the center section is almost the same, you'll be left with this, but with the compressor side still intact:
The thing that makes the TurboCoupe center section and the VJ11 center section different is the thread pitch on the oil inlet of the TurboCoupe:
The VJ11 oil fitting to center cartridge is a M10 1.50 (standard/course) thread pitch while the TurboCoupe fitting to center cartridge uses a M10 1.0 (extra or super fine) thread pitch.
So how do you remedy this and simply use the intact TurboCoupe center cartridge?
Easy, with a tap:
You'll want to first make sure that the threading inside is clean. Next take a small wad of paper and stuff it inside (you'll get it out later with tweezers) Now oil the threading, set your center section so it is straight and isn't going to roll. Align your tap straight and get a feel for the first thread. Once you start turning your tap, it pretty much goes the rest of the way with little or no effort. When you're done, take the tap out, take the paper out and make sure you haven't left any metal shards inside.
Use your cooper washer and your VJ11 fitting in the center section, use your water inlet and outlet fittings from your VJ11 as well as the oil return from your VJ11.
Attach the center cartridge to the exhaust side of your VJ11, and use your VJ11 wastegate actuator.
The setup will look like this except with a T Bird compressor:
You can use the TurboCoupe compressor housing with the VJ11 wastegate actuator, but the compressor housing will bolt up at a crooked angle compared to the VJ11 compressor housing. The remedy for this is to drill a hole in the middle of the wastegate actuator bracket in the middle of the top two bolts holes. This will allow you to move your T Bird compressor housing at a straight up and down fashion like the VJ11 normally sits.
Bolt everything back up, and hopefully the TurboCoupe wasn't in the junkyard due to a bad center sections bearings and or seals.
Remember, if you plan on doing the T Bird Hybrid the cheap way, DO NOT TOUCH OR REMOVE THE TURBINE NUT. This will assure that you'll have to get it rebalanced.
When all is said and done, you could easily
have yourself a T bird hybrid for alot less than what you think you can.
Good Luck, and Happy Boosting!