Gavins 1st gen MX6 DSP autocross build - Page 2 - Mazda MX-6 Forum
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post #16 of 37 (permalink) Old 7-9-08, 18:05 Thread Starter

 
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The future part2

INTAKE:

Quote:
15.10.C.1. Carburetors, fuel injection, and intake manifolds are unrestricted, subject to 15.10.D. Alternate throttle linkage and connections to facilitate installation of allowed induction systems are permitted, but may serve no other purpose. If an induction system item is allowed to be removed and its original mounting bracket can be removed by simply unbolting it, the bracket may be re-moved as well.
Basically any intake manifold is allowed. And with the ability to use an aftermarket ECU, I plan to create a new system for the car.






It’s a “kit” for a dual plenum sheet metal intake manifold. Along with a very short section of the stock runners and a 4.6l mustang throttle body the plan is to get a bit better flow but really reduce the weight if the very complex stock throttle body and intake design.

The dual plenum intake is a bit much for the setup I have, but it was what was being offered (the VW/Audi folks like this setup a lot) so I wasn’t too fussy about it.

EXHAUST:

Currently the car has the stock (186,000mile) exhaust system.

Quote:
15.10.I Exhaust manifolds and muffler systems are free, except that they must be quiet and terminate behind the driver. Exhaust heat shields may be removed. Rear- and mid-engine cars without exhaust headers/manifold systems may use any exhaust system that meets the requirements of 3.5. This permits the removal of “heater boxes” in order to install headers on such cars.






As you can see I have a few toys that I can use (probably wont use that collector though) to fabricate a new turbo header system. It will be a semi-tubular log setup not unlike the stock manifold. Why go through all this trouble for just another log manifold? Weight, plain and simple. Oh I may get a bit better flow if I profile things right, but mainly this is a weight saving exercise.

As another nod to weight, I could make a nice equal length tubular manifold like a “ramhorn” design but, (a) I don’t really plan to be making that much horsepower (@200hp or so) so a full tubular manifold wont be of much use at those modest levels VS. a log manifold and (b) a tubular manifold means more material to get things nice and neat. More material is more weight.

Post turbo will be a simple, efficient and quiet exhaust system.

I will see about purchasing an O2 housing from Jake, from that a 3” downpipe will be fashioned, a small length of flex tubing going to a burns stainless muffler and then a simple turndown terminating behind the drivers seat.

Burns Stainless

Probably this item.

Why not a straight through exhaust? Noise. We live in a time and age (for motorsports) where noise is a very big concern. Once upon a time noise wasn’t a concern, but as development has spread, the encroachment of homes to what once was far away spaces, noise had become a big deal. For autocross, an event that rents space, the issue is huge. When/if noise complaints from homeowners happen the loss of a site is pretty imminent. Coast to coast, regions have lost sites because of noise complaints. Some regions never even knew they had run afoul with noise until told by the site owner that they were done forever.

SFR has a standing policy of 95db @100ft. It’s a known OSHA standard so its something that lawyers can understand and for competitors, its really easy to meet (95db @100ft) is pretty loud actually). We are doing our best to be good neighbors and so will I. Even though turbocharged cars are naturally quiet(er) since the turbo provides muffling, I will be using a lightweight burns muffler to reduce the noise even more. It also will allow me to meet the noise restriction at San Diegos Qualcomm Stadium which is a very tight 93db @ 50ft.


STRUTS:

Ive already alluded to this in a previous post.







The Penskes have returned from the welders and have been modified to fit the MX6)new ears and extensions to make the rears longer). I then sent them to the metal platers to get a zinc coating on them for rust protection(and added BliNg!!).





Painting and powedercoating wouldn’t work in this application because of the threaded body. Ill have to do some research on where to place the external canisters. Not sure how I can legally mount them inside the body and out of harms way. Ive seen other cars with this done, but….more research is needed.


After that things will be about 95% done. The rest will be tuning and fine tuning getting those last few %s out of the parts that I have. Nibbling away at weight (new lighter seat?, fasteners are free?). There are some folks who have gone so far as to using aluminum screws in non-critical areas of the car , or have cut down the lengths of bolts/used hollow bolts(I found out that one of my local competitors removed all washers from his car…pretty slick).

Well, that’s all I have for the time being. Its taken a bit to get here and a lot of perspiration, inspiration, money and motivation were expended to see things this far. Hope people were entertained a little by what I am doing and I hope the “whats” and “whys” have been answered adequately, if not Ill be happy to fill in the blanks.

The process never ends, but at least the car runs

To the future. Cheers.

Gavin

Last edited by gavin; 6-4-09 at 3:16.
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post #17 of 37 (permalink) Old 7-18-08, 3:02 Thread Starter

 
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You know, Im an idiot. I went through the trouble of making the whole thread about the car and I forget some stuff. It figures.

Somewhere in the future, those items will also be added.



Its a pair of SPA gauges that have dual readouts. Theres water/oil temp and fuel/oil pressure. Microprocessor control, last/high readings, alerts, blah, blah, blah. Lots of high quality expensive stuff. The other item is a SPA 3-stage shift light which .....does stuff. Much thanks to svtfrush for the gauges(got them in trade for some work to the "readheaded stepchild" car).



440cc injectors from a 3rd gen turbo supra. From what I understand its possible to run the stock injectors to the power levels that I want, but Id be running them at a very high duty cycle. If i will be going to full engine management, I dont see why I should stick to stock injectors. These will be sent to witchhunter performance for cleaning up. I also have a set of 450cc injectors from a DSM car, but the plug configuration is much closer to that if the 1st gen A cars. The supra injectors have plugs closer to that of the 1st gen B cars, so Ill just be lazy about it an lose the extra 10ccs(440ccs should more than cover my needs anyway).

Finally..(ha, how many times have you heard me say this?)

Someone asked for pictures of the car on the ground. I actually hadnt thought to take pictures of the whole car assembled in race trim and on the ground. So here you go...






ugh...glare

I was under the tow vehicle connecting the rear swaybar and I took this shot. Lots of zoom so it was a bit fuzzier than it should have been.

And the first day it hit the autocross course.






Last but not least....



Do you know that this weighs 29lbs? I pulled all of this today because, well frankly, its not needed. I had a tiny turndown made to be fitted at the flange thats before the gas tank. Have no fear, a "real" exhaust system is in the works, but for the time being I pulled a little more weight out of the car.

yep, it never ends.

Ill be in Los Angeles this weekend for the 3rd round of the California Divisionals Series at the El Toro Marine base in Irvine. Ill see how the car fares there.

Gavin

Last edited by gavin; 12-15-08 at 14:39.
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post #18 of 37 (permalink) Old 8-26-08, 2:37 Thread Starter

 
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Sheet metal intake manifold?

Id mentioned this before in the main thread that I would be looking to make a sheet metal intake for the car. Why? A couple reasons.

First, weight. The stock manifold is a lot of sturdy, cast, heavy material. It was built to live for the lifetime of the car and it shows. I realy dont need that kind of overengineering for the car at this time so anything that can be done to cut weight is a good thing.
Second..the throttle body. Its er....complex. More complex and complicated than I need. Theres also a limited amount of "upgradability" that can be done with the twin butterflys.
Lastly, its a good way to see if I can extract some performance from a "better" designed manifold(provided I know what I am doing...which may not be the case).

With this in mind I used these pieces to have a new intake manifold made..


Its a twin plenum sheet metal manifold Kit. Pre-bent and formed for welding.


The lower half of the intake manifold was used to save time in fabricating new flanges and runners. The coolant and EGR passages were removed (with a couple "whoopsies" to be fixed later)


Eventually things were trimmed down to the length I wanted, which was as short as possible without cutting into the space of the fuel rail.


Ford 4.6l throttle body. 68mm to start with the ability to be punched out to 70mm if needed. Its simple and readily available(in the states at least)


Heres the preliminary work that was done the get things together. The TB flange needs to go on and some other odds and ends fitted.




The finished product.

A couple notable things... I used the stock mazda TB cam instead of the ford item and had a plate welded to mount the throttle cable.

The coolant passages that were cast into the lower intake manifold were removed. That removed the coolant outlets that go to the IAC, the oil cooler and the heater core. I wont need the IAC, so no issue there. I will need the heater core so an AN fitting was welded where one of the coolant outlets leaves the head(the other was welded closed). The oil cooler will be kept, but Ill have to sort out how to get coolant to it since I have removed the IAC coolant feed. Ill probably use a "T" fitting from the heater core.


Why a dual plenum intake manifold?

First, Im going to admit right up front that this is a big guess on my part and I may be proved wrong in the end, but nothing ventured...

In a standard IM design youll many times have a condition where all of the cylinders are not fed the same amount of air. The runner closest to the throttle body will take its fill of the incoming air, leaving less for the 2nd runner, then less for the 3rd and even less for the 4th. Depending on for the manifold is shaped you can have a situation where one runner is "starved" for air more than most. In a daily driven car this usually isnt an issue since OEMs have so much leeway built into engines to ensure longevity. When one pushes beyond those limits, the compromises start being more and more apparent.

The theory behind the dual plenum design is to equalize the amount of air each of the runners see. The initial taper increases the air velocity as the air charge moves to the end of the plenum, the central slit that separates the two plenums is 110% of the area of the throttle body and theoretically should not be a restriction. The secondary plenum gets fed along its entire length evenly from the slit. The runners then get an even distribution of air. Its based on a design called the lehmann(sp?) manifold.

Now heres the issue and why this is a big gamble...most everything I have mentioned about lack of available air to one(or more) runners seems to arise from naturally aspirated engines. On forced induction engines the flow dynamics are a bit different being positive manifold pressure. Theoretically those issues shouldnt exist, but apparently do...just not as bad as in N/A engines. Is it worth all the trouble for this setup? Im not sure.

The dual plenum design is favored in the motorsports community, specifically rally cars(from the old group B cars to todays WRC cars) and sportscars (like the Audi R8/R10). However those cars are built around rules that call for restrictors that limit the amount of air that can enter the turbos. It very well could be the case that this manifold design is better suited to a "restricted" engine than an "unrestricted" engine. I may yet have to revert back to a more standard manifold design in the future if this doesnt work out.

The manifold is lighter than the stock piece for sure(ill have to get a stock manifold to check the weight difference) so thats one thing that is a definite. I also specifically wanted shorter runners. Aside from reduction of weight, its my understanding that shorter runners accentuate high RPM power rather than long runners which accentuate midrange torque. This however, may only be applicable to N/A and not so much in F/I engines. Im trying anyway since I really dont need equal torque gains per HP gains (maybe a 4:1 ratio but certainly not a 1:1 ratio).

Its a stock turbo which will have increased boost. All of this may not even matter in the end for such a (relatively) low HP application. But who knows?

Here is an interesting discussion on this type of manifold on Hybridz.org

Turbo Intake Plenum - HybridZ

Lastly, its going to be a while before I even see what if anything will come of all of this since I need the TEC3r up and running first and I lack extra funds at the moment. The stock computer probably wouldnt be happy with this new hardware at all. I really need the TEC3 going asap. The last autocross event had me banging into the RPM based fuel cut in all of my runs (stock ECU, stock boost. @7000rpms in 2nd gear). I have a chipped ECU, but I am pretty sure it only has boost cut removed and not the RPM cut. Not sure if anyone does.

Gavin

Last edited by gavin; 6-10-09 at 11:28.
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post #19 of 37 (permalink) Old 6-2-09, 10:00 Thread Starter

 
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Slowly but slowly....

It never ends when you fiddle with cars.

To that end, here are some of the changes made to the car over the last months or so. Nothing huge, but significant nonetheless.


Quote:
15.10.A...Engines must retain standard type lubricating system, but may have any oil pan (Accusump-type systems allowed), oil pump and pickup, oil coolers, oil or fuel filters. Fuel filters must be of automotive type and may serve no other purpose; a substituted fuel filter may not be used as a reservoir. Substituted fuel filters may not exceed one quart total capacity. A permitted oil cooler may be positioned in an opening in an allowed spoiler, provided no unauthorized modifications are made in order to perform the installation
The car now generates a lot of lateral grip. A symptom of this is that I am getting a large amount of oil through the PCV system and into the catch can. I believe this is from the oil in the pan sloshing about and getting caught on the crank. I wouldnt have figured this to be the case since mazda has a windage tray of sorts on the engine, but there you have it (if anyone has alternate theories feel free to share).

Even if this isnt the case I was concerned about another possible issue, oil starvation. It has been the case in many FWD cars that, because of the east/west configuration of the oil pan, in a long sweeping corner you can have the oil pool to one side of the pan leaving the pickup dry for a few seconds. Not really into that.

with the "any oil pan" allowance I baffled the stock oil pan.



the last is of a bung I had welded on for the oil temperature sensor.

I had thought of trap door baffles, certainly nicer, but a bit much for what I needed. With the factory baffle, I just needed to box the pickup and slow the movement of the oil within that box. I believe this setup without moving parts will do the trick(Ive tested it somewhat with water and it seems to work so far).

"hey buddy, can I get a jump?"

My super pimpy lightweight battery died
https://www.mx6.com/forums/794500-post40.html

I had mentioned that these batteries have very little reserve charge so they will die quickly if you forget your lights or whatever else that can drain a battery. They also do not like repeated discharges. No surprise then when one day it was dead and wouldnt take a charge. It had given me 3 years of service though so that wasnt so bad.

I would have gotten another but the prices for the odyssey had gone up dramatically over the years. They sell for about twice as much as I had purchased this one years ago. I needed a new battery...preferably cheaper.

Braille batteries have made a name for themselves in a short amount of time. the batteries are small, light and powerful.

Braille Battery USA - B14115
Braille Battery USA - B14115C

Also...oh so pimpy with carbon fiber overlay.....but at $150 and $230....yeah right. F-that.

Theres three companies that make all the automotive batteries in the USA, Exide, East Penn and another that escapes me at the moment....but thats no matter because its east penn that interests me. They have a line of batteries that they sell under the nameplate of Deka.

Tri State Battery Online Catalog

Look familliar? Thats right, Braille batteries are simply rebadged Deka batteries...at twice the price.



The existing terminals I had used on the odyssey transfer over and I get to lose 3lbs with the new battery. Not bad I figure.


Reading is fundamental

I had mentioned that part of the game of what I am doing is the ability to not only read the rules to see what is allowed, but to truly understand the depth at which the allowances can be exploited legally. Here is such an example.

Quote:
15.2.F....The standard seat belts may be removed to facilitate the
installation of alternate restraints complying with safety requirements.
What does this rule mean?

Well, originally the car came with the "strangulators" (automatic seatbelts). This rule says that I can effectively get rid of them for "alternate" seatbelts right? It does, so I can get rid of the heavy tracks and motors to be swapped for the manual belts.
http://www.teamunemployment.com/gavi...0-1038_IMG.JPG
http://www.teamunemployment.com/gavi...0-1042_IMG.JPG

But it also means I can not only use a harness, but completely remove the stock belts for a harness.
http://www.teamunemployment.com/gavi...s/IMG_2015.JPG

This is a fair amount of weight thats lost just because of this one simple rule. Pretty cool eh? But is that all there is?

It took a long while at staring at the words one day but I gained a minor epiphany looking at them......"safety requirements"? What did that mean exactly? Where are these safety requirements? It took a bit of searching in the rulebook to find this little nugget...

Quote:
3.3.1 Driver Restraints
Seat lap belts are required in all cars, and must be installed in cars with passive restraint systems that do not include a lap belt. Installation and the use of shoulder belts or harnesses is strongly recommended, however non-factory upper body restraints may only be used in open cars, cars with targa-tops in the open position, or cars with T-tops in the open position when two conditions are met:
a. The roll structure must meet either the requirements of Appendix C or Section 9.4 of the GCR.
b. The top of the roll structure may not be below the top of the driver’s helmet when the driver is in the normal driving position
Its not as straightforward as some of the other rules, but Ive highlighted the pertinent passage. Boiled down the safety requirements call for a minimum of lapbelts in pretty much all cars but only recommends shoulder harnesses. Go back to the original rule..."the standard seat belts". Thats plural, with no distinction of front or rear seatbelts.

Every seatbelt can be changed to a seatbelt that meets the safety requirements....a lapbelt.



To the left, three stock shoulder belts and their retractor reels to be replaced by three rear center lapbelts on the right. I lose 9lbs in the conversion just by rereading a rule.

Gavin

Last edited by gavin; 7-18-10 at 5:03.
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post #20 of 37 (permalink) Old 4-9-10, 10:27 Thread Starter

 
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*bop**bop**bop*....is this thing on?

Been a while for updates, so heres whats been going on....

Over the past summer I took the car to Lincoln Ne for the SCCA/Tire rack SOLO national championships.



Writeup is here for those that havent already seen it...

https://www.mx6.com/forums/gallery/23...incoln-ne.html

More coming.

Gavin

Last edited by gavin; 7-18-10 at 5:06.
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post #21 of 37 (permalink) Old 4-9-10, 20:19 Thread Starter

 
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So after I got back from Lincoln, I was pretty Jazzed. I got a chance to really see where I and the car stacked up and was very encouraged with the performance of the car (the driver needs work....but isnt that always the case ). I needed to make the next step up in the cars development.

I had a lot of ideas going, but one dominated in my mind....I needed a new chassis.


I wanted this for three reasons..(1)The sunroof plug is not 100% kosher. Its gets the effect of the rules, but its really not legal as written. The rules say you can convert the car to whatever trim package was available from the factory. Since there was such a thing as a non-sunroof GT, I can convert my car to non-sunroof status....but the thing is it has to match exactly as was available from the factory. That means the plug wont do, it has to be a complete reskin.

Id either have to find a non-sunroof GT (BWahahahahahahahha!!!!) or get a DX, cut the roof off, then get the glass out of my car, cut its roof off (or a large section), trim, weld, sand, primer and paint......for about $2000 for a shop to do that. Yeah, thats what I was thinking too. OR!! since I have to source a DX anyway, why not just swap the chassis? DXs are cheap, $500 for a non-roller (or a drivable car) isnt out of the question. Yes, I would have to swap over EVERYTHING (no seriously, everything) that made a GT a GT, but it would be more time than money. Awesome, Thats the plan. I figured Id get a car and taking my time, a month would get me a no sunroof GT.

2nd reason was, I wanted to see if there was any sheet metal changes (In terms of weight) between the A and B cars. I know in other manufacturers who had cars that ran before and after 1990, they had to change the cars slightly to conform to the post 1990 requirement of adding an airbag or having some sort of passive restraint system (autobelts FTL). Going to autobelts or moving the seatbelt mounts to the doors meant that the chassis had to be reinforced to deal with the possible forces exerted on it. As a consequence, the weight of the chassis was usually higher in those later cars. I know that all of the 626s used the autobelts from inception so there may be no difference in reinforced chassis points, but I wanted to test it out anyway...just for curiositys sake.

3rd reason I wanted a new chassis was, I didnt want to do 2x the work with the remaining projects. Id put them on one chassis, then take them off and then have to lay them out on a new chassis...again. Best to wait for the new canvas....And then something happened....or rather, didnt happen.

I could never find a decent DX. They were either clapped out or...REALLY clapped out. Since I wasnt working on the other projects until the new chassis was procured, I basically did nothing. The car sat and then....I started to enjoy having weekends again. I didnt have to chase the next event. Didnt have to do prep the day/night before. I could go out to clubs, to movies, hang out with friends.....go out with a girl on a date. It wasnt bad. As time went on, I pretty much lost motivation for working on the car and so it sat..........since last September.




Early march or so something happened. I came to the conclusion that I could no longer hold on to the 1984 Rabbit GTi that I had gotten with SVTfrush and some other folks for the 24hrs of Lemons race. It was sitting for two years and I had to come to grips with the fact that...it wasnt going to happen again. There just wasnt enough money to spread between two project cars. I would part it out.......hmm, you know, I had amassed a fair amount of racy parts for the VW (konis, rally bilstiens, it had a roll cage, struts bars, springs...a lot of desireable items). Those could catch a pretty penny on the market. Hmm......Im ahead of my bills for the first time.....you know, my tax returns are coming soon......!!!

All of a sudden, it dawned on me that there was a narrow window where I could have a fair amount of cash to get the final money intensive projects off the ground and completed!

You know what? Enough of this waiting for the perfect DX chassis. I can get to that another time....Ladies and gentlemen...My motivation is BACK

Gavin

Last edited by gavin; 7-18-10 at 6:10.
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Ancilliary parts for the TEC3r. Map sensor, DFU, sensors, mag pickup, trigger wheel.





I sent the trigger wheel and the aluminum crank pulley to the machine shop get turned down. Both are perfectly round and make an interface fit with each other. I have to figure out where the mag pickup is going to be mounted soon (I think the front near main coolant return)

I decided to make my own plug and play adaptor harness, but the flying loom for the TEC3r is $200. Im not buying a $200 wiring harness just to cut them down to 12". Thats just dumb. Took me a while to figure out the plugs that the TEC3 uses and where to get them, but I have them now...oh yeah, the plugs are $9.50 each (not including the crimp connectors which is another $5 for 50)....I rule.


Gotta figure out what goes to what between the TEC3 wiring schematic and the MX6s wiring schematic (um...the leg bone connects to the...???).


I apologize in advance. I had said that I would like to have done a couple before and after dynos to see what did what and how much..but I am feeling the urge to just get things going. Basically, Ill be adding a lot of components at the same time. Yes, that muddies the water a bit and am a bit sad at that myself. I did want to see how things performed individually, but I feel that I should just keep working while my motivation is on High and not delay things any longer.

To that end, the ECU makes adding the new sheet metal intake manifold and ridding the car of all the emissions hardware a possibility. Lots of weight savings there.. speaking of weight savings

Im pressing on my welder dude to start work on the tubular turbo manifold. I gave him a box of stainless Els, pictures of manifold designs and an extra cylinder head to use as a jig about a year ago. At the time I wasnt that eager to get it done, so things just drifted on. My motivation is back up so I am turning up the heat a little on welder dude (hey, he owes me..its been a year of him slacking as well )




No, its not an Aeromotive, just a simple and effective B&M fuel pressure regulator and thats all Ill need. The autometer bolt is an M16 to 1/8th NPT. Perfect size for the end cap of the fuel rail. A 90deg elbow and I have most everything to add the pressure fitting from the SPA gauges. I want to remote mount the sensor on the firewall so I still need to have a hose made for that.




Got the supra 440cc injectors back from witchhunter performance. Cleaned and balanced. Two are pushing slightly higher than 440ccs. Ill keep those as spares for the time being.




Pulled this out of the car. It needs to be replaced by something, but what?





Yeah, I think thatll work.

Thats 5ft of 3"diameter 18ga straight pipe, two 16ga 90deg 3" elbows, burns stainless lightweight racing muffler (3"in/out), a 14ga 2.5" 180deg bend, a 1.5" 180deg bend, 2.5">3" reducer, 2.5" v-band clamp and a flange for the VJ-11.

The piping is from Colombia river mandrel bends, the clamp and reducer are from vibrant, the muffler..well thats easy, The flange is from BMCrace. Aside from the flange, everything is 304 stainless. I plan to make my own O2 housing with the 180deg bends. I got those in heavier gauge because I wanted a bit more strength and resistance to heat since it will be right next to the turbo. Should be a nice and simple and quiet exhaust system. There is a new sound policy in place for the National Tour events. Indeed, as I mentioned, lots of local clubs have to adopt some sound ordinances to keep happy neighbors as urban sprawl finds its way out to previously far away places. I will do my part to comply. Besides, nowadays, loud no longer equals power. There are solutions on the market that are free flowing, dont hurt power and are quiet.

Oh yeah, if I do this right, the new exhaust setup will probably weigh about half of what I removed (that removed section is 30lbs).


After 2 years I finally made the trip to Sears Point in Sonoma county, california to go to PSI (Koni, Ohlins, Moton, Penske, Hypercoils, Your Racing Shocks Shop!) to have them rework the "penske" triple adjustable shocks I built out of some ex-porsche racecar struts. I think I may have mentioned this already, but I say "penske" because after a lot of talking with PSI, it turns out they arent 100% penske items. They were off a 993 Porsche 911RSR, but penske didnt really start making struts until the 996 came out.....and those were inverted struts. Best guess anyone has is that they are a custom build using Anze strut bodies, penske internals and external canister, with maybe 22mm JRZ or Moton shock shafts, er......or something . Luckily, PSI is familiar with the individual parts, but will have to do some research on them to confirm what they think they know....total revalving [email protected]$1000....ugh.





Oh yeah a local fellow was selling this so I picked it up. Never used, just fitted to the car (too shallow, they got deeply dished momo instead). Its fuzzy

Gavin

Last edited by gavin; 7-18-10 at 5:10.
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post #23 of 37 (permalink) Old 5-7-10, 7:21 Thread Starter

 
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progress...

Much like everything else...some assembly is required.



Turns out the unit I got doesnt fit the MX6 FPR as it is too small (I want to say the internal diameter is 36mm). A quick trip the the machinist to punch it out to 38mm fixed that issue. The top "cap" of the B+M uses an o-ring to seal against the top of the stock FPR. I thought the stock item was a bit too thin and got a thicker o-ring (and a bit of hylomar gasket sealant) to have it seal a bit better to the stock housing.


out with the old




And in with the new




Finally started dressing the intake manifold. New fuel lines, injectors, sorting out coolant lines, pulsation damper needed juuuust a little more clearance to the main plenum (precision hammering ensues), etc.

One thing that I did add was an extra nipple for the coolant (on the flange in the 2nd picture). I still needed a feed source for the oil cooler since that was eliminated in the making of the new manifold. I was thinking of making a "T" fitting from the inlet hose that feeds the heater core, but then I realized that the 2nd coolant port in the head (that I had originally had welded shut) was the perfect place to have the coolant feed.

So heres something that amuses me when looking at this manifold....
-flange and runners: Mazda
-Sheet metal body: VW
-injectors : Toyota
-Fuel pressure regulator: Honda
-throttle body: Ford

What a mutt

Heres some comparison shots of the two manifolds together..





Stock intake manifold is 25lbs with accessories. The new manifold is 10lbs fully dressed. I like that

The manifold is actually in the car now. There was a lot of detail work that needed to be done. Clearance to other parts, fitment of throttle cables, routing of hoses....pretty much the things you would have to expect with a custom fitment.

Here is another project tie in that involved the manifold...


Pressure sensors for the SPA gauges

So I have two pressure sensors (fuel and oil) that I wanted to install while the stock intake manifold was out. The back of the engine block would be easy to get to and I also needed to tap into the fuel rail to get readings as well.

Ive been doing a bit of reading about pressure sensors and what I gather is there is concern about excessive vibration. Whether the fears are well founded or just internet rumormill, I decided to remote mount the sensors to the firewall.



I also added a couple of 90deg couplers to sort things out.


I needed a couple other things to make this all work. I needed tubing of some sort to feed the sensors and fittings to tap to the sources.

A friend of mine has a SPEC Miata and donated a spare remote oil pressure line and mount. The line was a long length of stainless braided line with pre-assembled ends and assorted swivel couplers/male/female NPT ends.

After a bit of measuring, There was plenty of length to make two hoses out of one. I quick run down to the local hose/hydraulic line shop and I picked up some reusable hose fittings and male/female adaptors and made these items....




Since the lines had to be cut, I also got some clear electrical shrink wrap to cover the braid of the lines and add an extra layer of protection should they rub on something (and they do). The shrink wrap also helped in another unexpected way as well. I had to do some trimming of the lengths of line and the shrink wrap supported the braid and prevented it from fraying and making a royal mess.

The fuel fitment went together pretty well. As mentioned above, I had purchased an M16>1/8" NPT adaptor from Autometer for the end of the fuel rail. I added a simple "T" that had female ends to the adaptor. One end would feed the pressure sensor, the other will feed to a small 1.5" fuel pressure gauge for quick under-the-hood reference.



You can see the assembled bits on the rail. Ill have some better pictures of the whole thing together. Its actually nice and tidy.

The oil pressure fitment was a bit more puzzling....My idea was to tap off of the stock oil pressure sensor. Just use an in line adaptor with a "T" off of it and you have a tap for the line and the stock sensor can also be reattached.....well, sort of.



Thats the stock oil pressure sensor from my car. Nothing odd about it right?



How about now? No? Here.....let me help you out a bit...




This should be pretty apparent as this is a japanese car, but the threads for the oil pressure sensor are BSP (british standard pipe thread) and not NPT. BSP is a slightly different thread pitch than NPT (27teeth per inch vs 28teeth per inch(?)). The thread pitch isnt too much of an issue since you only use about 1/4" of pipe thread anyway, but as the pictures show, the issue is the difference in tapers. BSP is a thinner taper than NPT. You can get away with using the smaller BSP(male) in NPT(female), but NPT>BSP isnt going to work out too well.

Id done plenty of reading and people (MX6-ers and probesters) had reported that they simply used NPT fittings without issue.........um, ok then. Dunno, how that worked for them, but it wasnt going to happen for me.

I have a tap and could simply ream out the hole in the engine block, but theres no provision for that modification in the rules (yes, this would count as a modified block...be it and inch or a mile, so go the rules). What I needed was a BSP>NPT adaptor. As it turns out, I already had one. The Miata guys also run into this issue. The braided hose that was given to me also came with an adaptor for that very reason.



BSP adaptor, NPT M/F Tee and stock oil pressure sender all bundled together.



And installed.


Funny story about the reusable braided line fittings. I actually wanted to have the new ends of the line fitted with crimped connectors. So I went to the hose shop and....nope. Cant do it. I am curious....why? Liability (of course). To protect themselves from liability the shop (and I assume this is getting to be the standard now) aligns itself with a manufacturer or two (say, russell, or earls). They then get certified as per the manufacturers guidelines on their line of fittings and hoses and how to install/assemble them. Should the assembled piece fail...the burden falls to the manufacturer and not the shops as they were adhering to the manufacturers guidelines. This means no mixing of parts (earls fittings on earls lines only), so they would not work on my lines as they were of another marque that they were not certified with....What a world we have created for ourselves

The quick around was reusable fittings. If the part fails, its my fault and not theirs (pfft...whats the worst that could happen? )

Gavin

Last edited by gavin; 7-18-10 at 5:11.
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Exhausting




Remember this? As mentioned, I was too busy actually racing the car to be concerned with the timeline on when this was going to be done so a year or so breezed by. Now that Im back on the modification kick, I wanted this project moving again.


When it comes down to it, theres basically 2 types of turbo manifold designs, logs and....everything else (generally "tubular" style manifolds).

Logs are simple to design, do not require a multitude of parts (and therefore generally lighter than a tubular manifold) and deliver reasonable performance for a given HP level. From what I gather, logs start showing their inefficiencies at about the 375-ish level. At that point, a tubular style manifold with nice radiused runners is the next step up. The extra material to make those nice curves will make the overall unit heavier than a log manifold (possibly even heavier than the stock cast piece if you get really fancy), but the extra percentages of efficiency at delivering the exhaust gasses to the turbine is worth the effort(provided you are making big HP).

And besides....lets face it. They look PimP-tastic!!

I had a notion to do a tubular manifold (hence all the elbows in the box), but..for 200-ish hp? It didnt seem practical to go through all that effort to add extra weight to a manifold that I really dont think Id be maximizing its potential. A log seemed a more senseable idea if only for weights sake......but I did have all those elbows already. How about a log with a twist?

After looking at tons of designs for turbo manifolds, I saw a really neat design that was for the stock turbo in a 2nd gen toyota MR2. Apparently the stock manifold pinches one of the runners and hurts efficiency(even in stock form), so one of the owners had a custom piece made. It was a sort of log-ular setup. It used elbows instead of "T" fittings so the runners were somewhat profiled from the head to turbo, but not all of the runners terminated at the turbo flange (like a log).

I liked it, so I adopted the design




I had some old parts (busted head/turbo) that I used for a jig. According to the rulebook, I can do whatever I want between the exhaust ports of the cylinder head and the intake port of the turbo. The one thing I dont see though is a provision for relocating the turbo (IE: moving it beyond where it would be with the stock manifold). Using the "if it doesnt say you can, you cant" understanding of the rules, I took a conservative approach and had the jig set up so the turbo would be in its stock orientation (hey, I get to still use the stock turbo brace ).

Pimpness....




And compared to the stock manifold...







If you look close at the middle runners, youll see that they dont terminate in the outer runners at a straight shot. They cup under and inward to blend in gradually and take advantage of the curved profile created by the outer runners. The outer runners pretty much fell into place, hardly any work there really. The inner runners were a little bit of work to to get that blended curve.....but I wanted to do it because it was neat

(I wont lie, I giggled like a schoolgirl when I saw the finished product )

PS: stock manifold is about 16lbs. The new manifold.....7lbs.

I still have to do a little cleanup inside the manifold, after that......maybe get it thermal coated? Swaintech makes pretty awesome coatings. Looks to be about $125-150 for a turbo manifold.

OR........maybe I should work on the O2 housing, downpipe and exhaust. Yeah....thats an idea.

Gavin

Last edited by gavin; 7-18-10 at 5:14.
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post #25 of 37 (permalink) Old 5-8-10, 5:27 Thread Starter

 
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Intake manifold installed

And heres the rest of the intake manifold






There was a bit of adjustment that had to be made for things to fit. New inlet and return fuel lines, a little adjustment to the throttle cable (I will be looking into an extra return spring just in case), The vacuum hose to the brake booster had to be lengthened. I had to get a new coupler to mate the HKS intake elbow and the ford throttle body. I guessed at where things would be oriented and it turned out pretty well, all Ill need is a 3">2.75" 90deg silicone coupler.

One nice thing with all of this is...No more emissions hardware. The maze of vacuum lines are all gone to be replaced by whatever needs to be tapped into the 3 ports on the manifold.

And here is a picture of the routing of the hoses for the oil and fuel pressure readings...



That line from the fuel rail is actually touching the manifold on that raised block. That block was built up for a vacuum port for the fuel pressure regulator. Even though I think the stainless braid is tougher than the aluminum, Ill be sanding down that sharp edge just in case.

The braided line for the oil pressure makes a tight curve under the intake manifold and into the sensor. It also rubs against something (coolant line feeding the oil cooler). As mentioned, I covered the braids with clear heat shrink to add another layer of protection should the braids rub against something and start chafing. In this case, it also protects things that would be abraded by the braid.....Matter of fact, thats pretty much the case for all the hoses under the manifold. If they touch something or look like they could touch something, they get a sleeve or something to protect them from getting chafed/abraded.

Ok, next up....... o2 housing and the remainder of the exhaust

Gavin

Last edited by gavin; 7-18-10 at 5:14.
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post #26 of 37 (permalink) Old 8-7-10, 0:35 Thread Starter

 
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15min per day.....eventually it WILL get finished.


Ive been lazy, especially in light of working on the wiring for the TEC3r. What seemed like a simple idea has mushroomed to a colossus that threatens to kill me if Im not careful.

See, I had this idea.....I saw all these unused connectors from the stock harness and thought "hmm, why dont I just use those instead of overlaying everything....make use of whats there". Yeah, that seems simple enough. Weeks and weeks later after tracing wires and wiring diagrams, trying to sort out what connectors would be appropriate for what tasks...do I even have enough plugs?....why the hell am I doing this again? Then theres translating from Electromotive-speak to Mazda-speak (wait, when they say the tec3 needs this, is this that in the wiring diagram? ).

Amazingly though, I am making good headway and I am almost done with the wiring between the two manufacturers. Its been a learning experience for sure. Heck, I am even delusional enough to think it may all actually work. (definetly NOT tuning this thing after all this headache )

In the meanwhile though, Ive managed to sort out the intercooler piping for the new intake manifold. This actually required a bit of modification......thats right, I chopped up the incredibly rare HKS intercooler pipes (dont kill me)




Before and a bit after. The issue was that the stock manifold had the throttle body much higher and further forward than the new setup. It almost looks like the pipes can reach, but the angles were not making it easy.

After looking at things and thinking about it a bit, the pipes simply needed to be modified.



first thing, the aluminum elbow has the inlet and outlets slightly offset (maybe 160deg angle) from each other so it can make a slight left turn into the throttle body. The elbow needed to be cut in half and reclocked so the inlet and outlet were straight in/out (180deg )from each other.




Next, the small elbow needed to be less angled to the left as it normally was. I cut out a small pie wedge (1/2" on the wide side of the wedge) out of its curve to get the new angle I wanted. This had the net effect of pointing the assembly more to the right.




Lastly, since I will not be using the stock airbox or VAF, I simply needed a small bit of tubing to extend from the turbo inlet to some fresh air. The HKS tubing that fits in that position would be ideal...but for a few things.

-That tubing extends from the turbo and curves inward to the firewall, I needed it to point downwards to the ground.
-If i simply turned it downwards, the nipple for the bypass valve no longer would line up
-The extra port for the stock boost regulator was no longer needed.
- the piping was actually a bit too short to adequately clear the transmission.

I needed new tubing.


I think that bottom right 45deg elbow was from a volvo (940?), it was just the right length and was the same diameter as the HKS pipes.




I didnt add a bead to the end of the tubing as that end will not be subject to pressure. It will just hold a filter under vacuum.

Heres the end result of all of this.


(pointing at cool air)





Next up...finishing the TEC3r wiring.

Gavin

Last edited by gavin; 1-3-11 at 0:23.
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post #27 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-25-10, 23:29 Thread Starter

 
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Madness?? This is not madness..this_is_SPARTAAAAAA

Wiring the TEC3r. (Or, how to make something really simple…really complicated for no apparent reason )

Quote:
Originally Posted by gavin View Post
15min per day.....eventually it WILL get finished.


Ive been lazy, especially in light of working on the wiring for the TEC3r. What seemed like a simple idea has mushroomed to a colossus that threatens to kill me if Im not careful.

See, I had this idea.....I saw all these unused connectors from the stock harness and thought "hmm, why dont I just use those instead of overlaying everything....make use of whats there". Yeah, that seems simple enough. Weeks and weeks later after tracing wires and wiring diagrams, trying to sort out what connectors would be appropriate for what tasks...do I even have enough plugs?....why the hell am I doing this again? Then theres translating from Electromotive-speak to Mazda-speak (wait, when they say the tec3 needs this, is this that in the wiring diagram? ).

Amazingly though, I am making good headway and I am almost done with the wiring between the two manufacturers. Its been a learning experience for sure. Heck, I am even delusional enough to think it may all actually work. (definitely NOT tuning this thing after all this headache )

Ever do something really stupid? No, I mean REALLLLY stupid? Well heres my version of “no srsly..WTF was he thinking?



As per the above plan, I was thinking to make the connection of the TEC3 plug and play. If there was an issue with the unit, I could always fall back to the stock ECU. Makes sense right?…Um, not so much.

If one thinks about this and the components of my build for say…2sec, this is a ridiculous notion. I have a custom intake manifold that uses non stock sensors, the VAF and associated hardware will be removed, boost control is gone, a ton of stock connectors are being retasked for other purposes, etc, etc

Why on Gods green earth I thought rewiring things through the stock harness was a good Idea… Ill never be able to explain (temporary insanity? Swamp gas sickness? smokeable “Herbal” products?…ugh ). At that point I should have stopped and simply done the smart thing and overlayed the stock harness with a new harness…..but that’s NOT what I did. I kept going…..cuz Im dumb

Heres the tale of my decent into madness.






Not having done anything like this before I looked at what others had done in the past here and on other sites. Surprisingly (despite a lot of usage in high performance vehicles for decades), there is little information about the installation of the TEC3 unit.

If I were to integrate the wiring of the TEC3 into the mazda wiring harness I needed to know what went where(and how). This is the first issue…language. You see, what Mazda calls a thingamabob, electromotive calls that a doohickey. Not being fluent in either Mazda-speak or electromotive-ese I had to translate both to English. Oy vey!

I needed help.

(continued)

Last edited by gavin; 1-3-11 at 0:18.
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post #28 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-25-10, 23:31 Thread Starter

 
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First and foremost to embark on something of this magnitude, one needs the factory service manual. (Much thanks to Wilba who has the 90-92 manual uploaded).

https://www.mx6.com/forums/1g-faq-gen...sm-online.html
http://manuals.wibla.net/mazda/90-92WSM/ChapterF2.pdf

The engine control wiring diagram is on pages 96-99
The complete ECU wiring pinout at the connector is on pages 100-102.

As said, reading Mazda-speak can be a bit difficult. Sure would be nice if it was all in English….well, that’s available also thanks to the folks at Performance Probe.

Performance Probe

I am somewhat of a “visual”/spatially oriented type. It helps me to see how things connect as a whole instead of abstract concepts. I wanted to see how the stock wiring harness layed out.

Thanks to Larken, this was also possible… https://www.mx6.com/forums/1g-mx6-for...s-labeled.html


While I had a fair amount of info to help me I saw still a bit lost on the particulars, so I invested in some more help. What had others done to have their plug and play systems work?

d0zxmustang has a fairly comprehensive writeup of his PnP megasquirt setup for the 88-89 cars.
https://www.mx6.com/forums/1g-mx6-eng...mx6-turbo.html

It also has wiring diagrams

https://www.mx6.com/forums/2149574-post6.html

Now granted this is for the megaquirt DB9 pinout and the 89 ECU, but armed with performance probes ECU pinout guide for the 88-89s… Performance Probe

I could then do a traceback to see what was used in the megaquirt,
- then what that corresponded to on PPs 89 ECU pinout sheet
- then translate that to the PP 90+ ECU pinout sheet
- then FINALLY..use that to correspond with what was called for in the TEC3 instructions
- and of course I had the official Mazda FSM to confirm wiring and official pinouts.

So basically I was speaking four languages….reading in Megaquirt then translating to English, back to electromotive-ese then confirming in mazda-speak. Wait, wat?

This is what I eventually would up with, in terms of paperwork.






Ignore the blatant fire hazard

(continued)

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post #29 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-25-10, 23:37 Thread Starter

 
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Ok, I got this …..wait, no I don’t


First issue to arise was trying to understand what was done with the megasquirt…I couldn’t get it. Doing a tracedown using the above diagram lead me nowhere. Every time I got to a sensor or input, I would double check with the pinout sheets from mazda and PP and they wouldn’t match. NONE of them matched. Was I doing something wrong? Maybe this is way beyond my understanding. It didn’t make sense….but it had to, d0zxmustang had gotten his car working, as had others.

It took a lot of attempts and trying different permutations but eventually I found that d0zxmustangs in/output sheets were inadvertently wrong.

After transposing d0zxmustangs numbering convention for the factory plug back to mazdas convention (mazda has the connectors separated into connectors1,2 and3), I found that if everything was charted out, d0zxmustang had accidentally flipped the connectors creating a mirror image of the pinouts within each individual plug.



In other words...1E>1S, 2P>2D, 3I>3A, etc, etc.

Fcuk!

PS: despite the difficulty I had, I do thank d0zxmustang for having his writeup present. It was the springboard that I needed to move forward with the project. Again, I need to “see” how systems fit together to work so I can apply that understanding to what I need.


Ok, I got this ……..wait, no I don’t. WTF?


Now that I had sorted out how things went from d0zxmustangs megaquirt and had all those outputs/inputs converted to PPs 88-89 pinout sheet, I simply needed to find the corresponding component on the PP 90+ pinout sheet. No problem there…..except when I tried to confirm that with the official Mazda wiring diagram and pinout sheet. Nothing matched (OFNA!).

PPs 88-89 pinout sheet says that injectors 1 and 3 are on pin 3E…ok
PPs 90+ pinout sheet says that injectors 1 and 3 are on pin 1U…ok
Mazda 90+ pinout sheet says that pin 1U is a ground…wait wat?

Even better, Mazda says that injectors 1 and 3 are on pin 3U……hey, wait a second.

1U?, 3U?…lemmie check into this a bit. Sunofabitch…its backwards.

Performance Probe

While the pinout image on PPs site for the 90+ GT is correct, the descriptions for all of the components of connector 1 and connector 3 are swapped. So everything labeled as "1x" is actually "3x" and vice versa.

I haven’t even soldered anything together yet and this is killing me already, ugh…is that a grey hair? I feel ill

After a LONG time of checking and rechecking and checking again…and again, to ensure that I have all of the wiring right, I finally was confident that I understand how things connect together as a system and I started getting things assembled…What are those things?



- 60-2 trigger wheel
- magnetic pickup
- air temp sensor
- 3 bar MAP sensor
- Direct Fire unit

And a couple things not seen here

- Coolant temp sensor
- Throttle position sensor
- Exhaust gas sensor
- Knock sensor (optional, but I wired it up anyway)
- Tachometer signal


Also, I had to build harnesses for all of these items so that I could connect them to the stock wiring harness (remember, I was building this mythical plug and play setup ).



Quote:
15.9.E. Wiring harnesses may not be removed in whole or in part. Wiring connectors for emissions control devices are considered part of the harness, not part of the emissions control system, and may not be removed.
The stock harness simply cannot be modified, so I cant simply splice into the wires. This is why adaptors were needed.

One at a time then…..

(continued)

Last edited by gavin; 1-3-11 at 0:17.
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post #30 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-25-10, 23:42 Thread Starter

 
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60-2 trigger wheel.

Not only am I allowed any crank/accessory pulley….

Quote:
15.10.Y.
Any crankshaft damper or pulley may be used. SFI-rated dampers are recommended. Supercharged cars may not change the effective diameter of any pulley which drives the supercharger.
But also I am allowed to modify that or the stock pulley for the expressed purpose of using a crank fire ignition system…

Quote:
Appendix F
CRANK FIRE IGNITION SYSTEM

For the purposes of triggering a crank fire ignition system, which is an allowed modification in the Street Prepared category, a trigger ring may be added to the crankshaft, or a crankshaft pulley may be modified to serve the purpose of the trigger ring. Mounting of the trigger ring, or modification to the crankshaft pulley may serve no purpose other than to provide a means of triggering the ignition system. The original distributor may be removed and the distributor mounting hole covered with a plate. The location of electronic ignition control modules is unrestricted.
Next the the fellow who does all of my welding projects is a machinist. I enlisted his help in doing some modifications to the Performance Probe aluminum pulley and the trigger wheel so I would have both bolted together perfectly true.






The trigger wheel was starting to rust a bit and I didn’t like that, so I had it plated along with some camber plates that had been cut for me a long while ago by Ed Vandermolen (he has the black and green FE-DOHC racecar in the Netherlands)





Assembled and finished off with stainless steel button head screws. (marvel at its bling-tasticness )



Magnetic pickup

The TEC3 likes to use the 11th tooth of the trigger wheel (from the missing teeth while the engine is at TDC) to start its count. I had to create a mount for the magnetic pickup so that it could be oriented properly to the trigger wheel tooth in question and also firmly affixed to the engine.

There are a couple bolts to the left of the crank pulley that seemed to be mounted on the same plane. That would allow me to build a mount that would orient the mag pickup in the 10-o-clock ish area of the trigger wheel. This is what I came up with.







The bracket was a fairly simple thing. I built it so I could have adjustment for tilt, height and distance away from the block (you can see the slots on the “L” bracket). Once I finalized the correct orientation I wanted, I drilled and tapped screws to pin everything into place.

I reused the existing screws as the added thickness of the mount was thin enough to still have ample thread engagement….at least on the bottom of the mount. The top had the additional thickness of the “L” bracket and I preferred to have a bit more cushion in terms of thread engagement there. I found a longer screw from a disassembled transmission and used that for the top of the mount. Heres how it all looks assembled.








The mag pickup had to be wired up. The inputs from the distributor go straight to the mazda ECU. Since the path is direct and no other component uses those circuits, they are pretty much “unassigned” pathways, so I used the distributor plug to send the necessary signals from the mag pickup to the TEC3. There are four wires in the distributor plug, I only used three since the TEC3 needed pos, neg and a shielding ground. I used the red, blue and yellow wires of the distributor and created an adaptor.





so basically….(tec3 requirement : mazda wire color : mazda pinout)

Positive + : red : pin 3H
Negative - : blue : pin 3E
Shield : yellow: pin 3F


(continued)

Last edited by gavin; 1-3-11 at 0:16.
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