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KL into 89PGT

49K views 137 replies 21 participants last post by  chief tool 
#1 · (Edited)
I really want to do this. Why? Because my F2T is being rebuilt and I wrecked my 96PGT so the motor is doing nothing. I don't think it has ever been done so why not try. I like the KL, but when my F2 is ready it is going in. I had just bought Pacesetter headers, KLG4 manifold and Outlaw Spacers just before the accident. Plus I have a 75 shot. I wanna see how quick it will be.
 
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#29 ·
I would try to use as much of the 2G harness as you can, if that means pulling the chassis harness at least you will have nearly a full 2G harness.

It makes things so much easier down the track when you have to work on the car and you can use the factory wiring diagrams from the 2G rather than having to draw up your own.
 
#30 · (Edited)
I was thinking it would be much easier to switch out the chassis harness and just swap pigtails as needed. The hardest part is getting the dash switches to function properly. I got the turns signals and hazards. But the headlights, when the switch is off the lights are on when the switch is off the lights are bright, but the lights never come up.
UPDATE: i forgot that the high beam switch is in the turn signal switch. The headlight switch control the motors and the lights.
 
#31 ·
UPDATE: swapped chassis harnesses today. found out that i had keyless entry, so thats cool. just have to get a remote. Tailights work now. Wired up fuel pump and got the engine to start. working on the door harnesses. have driver side door switches working properly. used 1g door harnesses, cut 2nd gen connector and matched colors, easy stuff. just half to extend wires for the power mirror switch. still having trouble with the headlight switch. The hardest part about this swap is find the correct mounts. I'm suprised that this has never been done before.
 
#32 ·
Probably it wasnt done as some of the people who considered it got put off from all the negative advice.

I guess the reason for that is that too many people with too few skills ask the questions about doing it.

All I can say is well done for flying against public opinion, now all it needs it a turbo :lol:
 
#35 · (Edited)
Well the mounts. I am using a non-turbo pass. side mount. Going to get a non-turbo rear mount. The front one I am going to have to have a welder fab up. And the driver side mount going to have to make a hyrbid between a 1st and 2ng gen mount.

Thats another thing too. The 89 PGT has TURBO on the side of the car, so if all goes well. Turbo it is.
 
#36 ·
So do you know the non-turbo rear mount will bolt right up to the KL transmission then?

Also, confirm for me that when you say "non-turbo", you mean 1g. Did mounts change between 1gA and 1gB, if so which one are you referring to.
 
#40 ·
Yes the bolt right up to the trans...I got one bolted up and ready to go, just enver had time last year to get this far...now that its warming up I may continue on with the project...won't be changing all the wiring like this, though...2gen engine harness and 1gen everything else...luckily mazda is pretty consistent with wiring and electrical, so I think it should work out...

not sure if the mounts bolt to the trans AND the car, and that's what I'm waiting to hear from here, 1ga and 1gb should work just as well either way...there is a difference, but don't think it would matter...
 
#37 ·
NEED HELP. with the headlight switch. the headlights go up the lights turn on. i cant get the parking/tail/markers, to come on or the high beams. if i connect the wire going to the exterior lights to ground then everything turns on. i have been trying to get it work ALL DAY. why won't they work right. wiring diagrams dont help can someone help me please.
 
#38 ·
might help if you could post up the two pages from both WSMs and what wires youve connected to what, it'll make it easier for someone reading this thread to help.

not all of us have access to the necessary diagrams with enough ease....I have a few WSMs here but theyre nearly all for Mazdas and Aus delivered RHD ones, so there are subtle differences with what the switches do, plus we never got the 1G probe here.

It sounds like a simple wiring error of some sort, or maybe the switch does not have enough contacts to do what it needs to do on a 2G harness, maybe you'll need to get creative adding some relays etc....
 
#41 · (Edited)
I haven't had the funds to buy the rear mount just yet. One problem about this is that the oil pan touches the sub frame. If the engine is lifted for comfortable clearance the linkage hits the rack. I think I am going to put spacers on the subframes to lower them about an inch. Another thing is that the 2nd gen radiator is to long and if a radiator is mounted in the stock location there wont be room for fans. I am going to have a custom radiator made, one with a cap on the top. If the engine is pushed back for radiator/fan clearance than the linkage will have to be shortened.
 
#43 ·
Wouldn't it be a pusher fan? I run my fan in front of my radiator in mine, and i've got it pushing the air through the radiator into the bay. :)
 
#45 ·
Mine's reversable. It was pretty cool when i got home and almost overheated the car in the driveway the day i bought it, because it was in pull mode installed on the bumper side of the radiator.

I guess maybe it was supposed to pull the hot air OUT of the engine bay, through the radiator? Awesome.
 
#47 ·
Where are the inlets and outlets on the radiator for the vulcan engined Probe ?

Maybe it would be more suitable.

Otherwise I would take a trip down to the junkyards with a tape measure and see if you can find another car thats got the right size core with better placement of the inlet/outlet.

Otherwise you'll need to go custom.....I dont know if you guys get the same deals from ASI, but through ebay they will make you up a custom alloy radiator for around $400AUD, theyre based somehwere in south east asia.
 
#48 ·
I'm confused as to why you have to rewire the windows, headlights ect. Seems like if you use the 2g engine harness it would work right away besides the gauge cluster. :shrug: Then you could get aftermarket gauges or try and splice the 2g gauge cluster in.
 
#49 ·
The 1st gen switches are different from the 2nd gen switches. I'm using a complete 2nd harness. I'm using 1st gen door harnesses, had to cut the connector going into door of the 2nd gen and splice in the first gen harness. The power mirror switches are in a totally different locations between 1st and 2nd gens. One is located on the master switch and the other on the center console. I have to cut connecters of 1st gen harness and splice them to the 2nd gen harness to get the headlights, tailights, parking lamps to turn on. The harzards and turn signals are the only thing I got to work so far besides the windows/locks. Headlights are giving me trouble though. I probably am going to make a custom cluster because the 1st gen speedo is cable driven.
 
#55 ·
but why are you using the complete 2g harness? Why not just the engine harness? Just seems like way less work. Maybe i'm missing some thing here...
 
#50 ·
When I started putting everything together for my swap, I didn't have a pan...later acquired the pan and hadn't gotten back to the project, and now that you say that, it should have lcicked when I got my pan...the sumps on the wrong side, just like a kia pan on an fe3...how bad do the interfere? less than an inch, or more? might be able to modify my crossmember when it comes time...
 
#57 ·
Since my 89 has a manual rack. I'm am deleting P/S. I know that the water is driven off the same drive and don't want to run the grooved side of the belt on the tensioner. Do you think I could use a fan spacer to bring out the pulley, so it can be run on the alternator drive? I would need to get a belt one rib thinner.
 
#64 ·
I need moar info on this fabled manual rack, please?
 
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