Custom O2 Housing - Page 2 - Mazda MX-6 Forum
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post #16 of 523 (permalink) Old 7-12-12, 15:05 Thread Starter
 
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Here are more pictures of it mated to the turbine housing I pulled.




As you can see all the 17mm OEM nuts go on, but the one furthest to the right side below where the O2 bung will go will not accept a socket. A stubby wrench will have to do or smaller nut for a socket.

As far as the waste gate goes, it seems that it is able to open far enough (at least .5"). So hopefully no need to mill out a section for the flapper gate.

Still need to get the divider fence made and O2 bung placed.

Last edited by mjspiess; 7-19-17 at 19:25.
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post #17 of 523 (permalink) Old 7-12-12, 17:13
 
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Today just happens to be my bday, if I get enough $, ill order one right NOW.

IT LOOKS AWESOME.

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post #18 of 523 (permalink) Old 7-12-12, 23:34

 
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Getting closer and closer.

Honestly you could call it a day after the O2 bung and wastegate divider, but if you really want to go a bit further...

Quote:
Originally Posted by mjspiess View Post
As you can see all the 17mm OEM nuts go on, but the one furthest to the right side below where the O2 bung will go will not accept a socket.

Thats a picture of monoxidechilds original O2 housing from jake. You can see the small cutout for additional clearance at the bolt to the right of the bung. Its a bit more work to do, but if your guy is up for it.....or, you could...

Quote:
Originally Posted by mjspiess View Post
A stubby wrench will have to do or smaller nut for a socket.


I ran into the same issue and found a 15mm hex, m10x1.5 nut for that spot. It was actually originally a flanged nut, but I zipped off the flanges so that it would clear.

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post #19 of 523 (permalink) Old 7-13-12, 9:29 Thread Starter
 
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I noticed the difference between jake's and yours. For less work/cost, I think it's best to go with a wrench and 17mm nut or 15mm nut & socket as you did. Were you able to get a socket on yours or did you still have to use a wrench?
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post #20 of 523 (permalink) Old 7-13-12, 14:37

 
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I was able to use a socket on mine.

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post #21 of 523 (permalink) Old 7-13-12, 23:23
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Make it. I'll buy two.

It would be just the excuse I need to do a proper full exhaust on my mint OEM '90 626GT Touring with 75k original miles.

If I'm feeling spry I might buy three, to sell one to some poor sclub who missed out on the initlal build.

Another thought that would add cost, but something I'd personally pay for, milling the flanges flat after welding to ensure flatness for better sealing, resistance to bolt breakage...Yes, It's happened to me, too many times....

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post #22 of 523 (permalink) Old 7-15-12, 21:44 Thread Starter
 
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Thanks for the advice Ryan. I hadn't thought of that. I sent my friend a message regarding milling the flanges. I'll let you know what he says.
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post #23 of 523 (permalink) Old 7-15-12, 23:37
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryan View Post

Another thought that would add cost, but something I'd personally pay for, milling the flanges flat after welding to ensure flatness for better sealing, resistance to bolt breakage...Yes, It's happened to me, too many times....
I have found bolting the flange up to a spare piece (turbo hot housing....) or a flat piece of metal with bolt holes drilled in the right spots eliminates most of the heat distortion.

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post #24 of 523 (permalink) Old 7-16-12, 2:40
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Good point. Let it cool bolted to the jig. As long as the jig is flat and the bolts ate tight that should work.

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post #25 of 523 (permalink) Old 7-16-12, 3:24
 
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Is this mild steel or stainless? I'm in the process myself of fabricating one of these up and I would be more than happy to do so for our Aussie members once I get it set out right. Where did you get those flanges or were they custom made?
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post #26 of 523 (permalink) Old 7-16-12, 22:30 Thread Starter
 
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He kept it bolted in the jig when welding and after welding to cool. Preventing heat distortion is one of the reasons he made the jig.

The housing is 100% stainless. He drew/designed the flanges and cut them out on a cnc plasma table.
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post #27 of 523 (permalink) Old 7-23-12, 19:09 Thread Starter
 
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Well, good news.

I think we have plenty of clearance for the wastegate. Here are some pictures of clearance and amount of movement the flapper gets. What do you guys think? I don't think it would be necessary to mill out that section of the flange.


Here is a side shot with the gate positioned roughly 1/2" from closed position where the actuator would fully open the flapper.


Here is how far the gate can actually open.



He polished and cleaned it up. This is how they will be delivered.

For the fence he will probably just shear a piece to size and roll it to a perfect fit. Once the fence is in and he gets the 02 bung on, it will be ready to send to me to be tested out.




Last edited by mjspiess; 7-20-17 at 21:18.
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post #28 of 523 (permalink) Old 7-23-12, 21:28

 
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Man, that does look pretty.
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post #29 of 523 (permalink) Old 7-23-12, 23:17
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I for one couldn't say if the wastegate opens far enough, as I've no idea how far it can open, or needs to open on the stock housing to control boost. Also one of those things I'd do myself just for insurance.

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post #30 of 523 (permalink) Old 7-24-12, 0:14 Thread Starter
 
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I measured the wastegate actuator's movement and it only moves ~1/2". With this custom flange, the arm is able to move ~3/4", so it should be good to go.
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