Ultimate solution to torque steer.
High power torque steer under acceleration on the F2T is usually cause by control arm bushing distortion that moves the alignment around or shifts power from wheel to wheel.
They make FWD torsion bars and they wouldn't be to hard to fab up but they use swivel bearings that wear out and are costly.
Polyurethane front bushings help but aren't completely torsion proof, especially on hot days.
My latest solution to soft or worn stock control arm bushings was to weld a large washer to the control arm sleeves for the bushings with a hole the size of the bushing center shaft in the middle, any front-back movement gets stopped by the washer. The result is no torque steer and the same up and down movement the bushings would have. I welded the washers on with the bushings in the control arms cooling them with water ever 2 seconds.
I have finally ordered 2 sets of front poly bushings for 2 of my cars and have been worried about torque steer issues, this got me thinking. I have to remove the old bushings from 4 control arms, while they are out would be a good time to ad washers to both outer sleeves on each control arm. Once the bushings are pressed in they can't be removed without grinding off the washers but this will eliminate all potential torque steer and give the car the handling of polyurethane control arm bushings.
You're caging the bushing then, right? Limiting the control arm movement to only move with the suspension travel. Do you think it will cause any binding? What about vibrations? I guess inspecting the washer for any wear would give you some feed back. Cool idea.
I feel the poly bushings will reduce wheel spin but have more torque steer.
On my 89 mx6 GT I used cv joint nuts, that I ground down, put them on each side of the control arm bushings and pressed the control arms into the sub frames. The car has no torque steer but due to old trailing axle parts and factory front control arm bushings the rear end dips and front raises on launch and there is lots of wheel spin. There is no binding or knocking or vibration on the 89GT. Have all new trailing links and arms to put on the car and 1 set of poly front control arm bushings is going on this car.
For the 88 626GT the drivers front bushing was shot, I found a drivers control arm in my basement, I found the bushings had a bit more play then I wanted and boxed them in with welded washers, then did the same for the passenger side. The 88 626GT has no torque steer, there is no knocking, binding or vibration, I does suffer the same wheel spin as the Mx6. The clearance between the washers and bushing shaft is almost non existent , there is now way to see the shaft where it passes through the washer. Basically the washer is already stopping the control arm from moving in a dormant state, there is 0 play at the control arm bushings using a 20lb breaker bar to pry on them (5 foot long, 1"+ thick steel bar with lots of leverage).
The 626 is getting a new body, a 1988 626DX, I stripped it to a bear shell, removed all the floor tar, welded new rear strut towers, stripped the wheel wells to bare metal and coated the floors and wheel wells, trunk and firewall in POR-15 paint and armor coat top coat, the rad support is also coated, still have the engine bay to sand blast and coat. Then brush on gravel guard the rad support and the wheel wells and the car can get painted. (will do the bottom side of the floor after the car is painted and parts swapped.
The 626GT has dual rear sway bars with custom poly bushings, poly link kits, trailing axle bar, strut tower bar, tokico blue struts and eibach springs. It's new body has 4 new trailing arms and AWR trailing link arms.
The front has a solid sway bar, strut tower bar, boxed control arm bushings, M12 ball joint bolts and over sized link kits with poly bushings, 2nd gen Stagg struts and eibach springs. It's new body is getting boxed poly control arm bushings and a double welded front sway bar using a 24.5mm 91-92Gt mx6/probe bar and 22mm 626gt bar with poly bushings.
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