Gavins MEGA brake job(and a whole lot more) - Mazda MX-6 Forum
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post #1 of 113 (permalink) Old 5-4-04, 16:52 Thread Starter

 
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Gavins MEGA brake job(and a whole lot more)

Well, its happened again. I started to get bored and I decided I needed something to do(If you havent noticed by now, when I get bored.....er....things happen). I settled on brakes this time.



But first....ATTENTION CITIZENS of MX6.COM!!!

What I have done is a COMPLETE brake overhaul. Brakes are THE most important and critical safety component in any vehicle. No work done on brakes is inconsequential and must be held to the highest standard. Parts should be meticulously cleaned, lines bled and rebled with FRESH fluid to eliminate air. Fasteners should be torqued to factory spec, compnents assembled with care(as per the factory manual) and checked...rechecked .....and then checked again. Failure to do so could lead to disastrous results.

Ill say it another way just so everyone is on the same page.

This is important ****. If you dont know what the hell you are doing with tools, cant think for yourself and dont understand the concepts in this post...leave this one for the professionals and stick to LED windshield washer nozzles. Got it?


Now that thats suitably out of the way and the adults are left in the room...lets go.








-New front Rotors
-Goodridge stainless brakelines(and clutch line)
-Porterfield R4S rear pads
-Axxis Metal master front pads
-Beck arnley front caliper rebuild kit
-15/16 master cylinder and brake line to fit
-not pictured(yet)..Subaru legacy twin piston calipers

I do go overboard on a project dont I?

This all will need some explanation naturally. If you can believe this, some of the work I did was 2+ years in the making. Read on.



Rotors:



Brembo blanks (40$). Ive seen stock rotors crack (Nissan Altima). Surprisingly our rotors arent terribly small or thin(for the year available and the application). I doubt the same thing would happen to our rotors but..Brembos have been around for a bit, their metalurgy is sound and the price was cheap, so why not? The rears are also brembos but are in like new shape(more on this later) with only slight rust and so were not replaced.

Goodridge:



Thanks Dutch626

For anyone paying attention I had all my brake lines zip tied ( https://www.mx6.com/forums/showthread...ip+ties+brakes )when I was troubleshooting a brake problem a while back. It worked very well as a poor mans SS brake line but I always had designs on goodridge or earls lines. When new, the stock rubber hoses were quite up to the task of heavy braking activity I would imagine. 13 years later however, their job was done. Goodridge happens to be a Dutch company and with me having access to brake parts(rebuilt rear calipers) and Dutch626 being a native of the Netherlands a deal was struck and trades were made. Who-hoo.

Caliper rebuild kits:

No real pictures here, just some info. My front calipers had torn boots and since most everything was being ripped out, I figured this would be a good time to rebuild them. I happened to get two different rebuild kits for the front caliper.
Beck Arnley pn#071-7559 made in Japan(Akebono Pn#A-116p)
Wagner pn#CK116708 made in the USA

I used the Beck Arnley as it was a complete kit that included parts to rebuild both front calipers. It includes seals, boots, sliders, 2 sets of slider boots/caps, C-clips AND 2 packets of grease. Also included is detailed instructions for the kit.....in Japanese

The Wagner on the other hand, is less complete with only a seal, boot, a C-clip and brake bleeder cap all this for only ONE caliper. Pfft, Whatevah.

If you dont have these brands in your area try to find out if the kit you are getting was one from japan(Akebono). The likelyhood is that these kits are purchaced and repackaged by US manufacturers.

PS: Akebono Pn#A-209p (rear caliper rebuild kit)

Brake pads:

Axxis metal master front pads
Porterfield R4S rear pads

Yes its a bit of a mismatch and thats intentional. I have no definative numbers on this, but my impression is that the brake bias on our cars is very forward biased. Maybe even more than most other cars. My idea was to have the rear calipers do some more work(or the fronts less) so Id have less brake dive than I was having. The car would retain a more flat posture under braking, transferring less weight to the front wheels, having more available traction to the rear wheels and allowing me to trail brake a bit better in tighter corners in autocross....or at least thats the theory

BTW: my previous pads were EBC greens in front and MM rears. Horrible combo in my opinion. Aside from the natural brake bias of the car the EBCs have a higher coeficient of friction than the MMs. The fronts would lock all the time the rear end of the car would be light and loose from all the brake dive.

Remember I said Id explain the Brembo rears being in great condition? Front and rear pads and rotors were changed at the same time. After many autocross runs with this combo the front pads and rotors were toast (<21mm thick) They were so bad that I had horrible brake fade from overheating the thin pads and rotors(the rotors turned a nice color of cobalt blue. It must have seemed strange sight to see me running around the car with a bottle of water trying to cool down the rotors by dousing them (and hope they dont crack) just to make the final runs of the day)

Oh the rears? Well, I finally got rid of the hash marks from the grinder. Seriously no bite back there.Yep..its time for a change.

There was a post years ago on the Interim Probetalk board (which unfortunatly got lost when the servers switched) where a fellow used a brake bias adjuster to move some of the brake bias off the front allowing the rear calipers to do a bit more work. (this is not stuff for the feint of heart, screwing with brake bias and having the rears lock up before the fronts will have you in a guardrail faster than you can say "snap oversteer").

After looking long and hard at it, I decided this was too much of a hassle. To use a brake bias adjuster on my car (non-ABS). Id have to get rid of the proportioning valve (which is diagonal), get a parallel setup and then run a proportioning valve off the rear lines. Too much trouble especially when a simpler, more elegant solution presents itself. Just vary the pad compound, DUH!

The Axxis(Repco/PBR) Metal master front pads are an older compound but have good initial bite, are durable, rotor friendly and dust very little. The Porterfields are a higher coeficient of friction pad than the MMs by a bit. This should move some of the brake bias to the rear WITHOUT having the rears lock up before the front. They also have very good initial bite, are claimed to be rotor friendly and low dusting(these are relative terms however and I think it safe to say they will have more comprimises in these areas than the MMs).

This seemed the way to go for me. (Your milage may vary, batteries not included...some assembly may be required)


OK then! Lets get to this!


Gavin

Last edited by gavin; 5-5-04 at 11:38.
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post #2 of 113 (permalink) Old 5-4-04, 17:41 Thread Starter

 
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The old:




zip tied brake lines, toasted front rotor, raybestos front pads(I HAD to change the EBC greens as there wasnt anything left of them), MM rears...all to be changed.






Calipers/brackets gone, brake lines removed, rotors removed...and the splash shields removed? Thats correct. I removed the splash shields.

Why? Simply...they Displeased me.

Well..ok, thats not entirely true. Living in California has some benefits, like being a dry weather state(for the most part). Without the shields there will be more air to the rotors to aid in cooling. Not so much of a help on the streets, but at autocrosses (street prepared rules permit modification or removal of the spalsh shields)or HPDEs its a great help.



Its just a couple 6mm hex srews to remove the rears. You do have to remove the rotors though. The fronts youll have to get creative as they are press fitted on the spindle. I used an old(and if it wasnt useless, it is now) chisel and got a nice cut across the thinnest part of the sheild. The rest was using pliers to bend things out of the way until they could be removed.


Caliper rebuild/Painting:

Ok. Youll have to use your imagination on this because I spaced out and forgot to take pictures of this whole process. And NO I wont disassemble them to get you jokers pictures :P

I didnt have to do the rears because they were in awesome shape. The boots were supple and uncracked. The parking brake mechanism worked freely and the rotary bearing seemd nice an smooth. These were removed cleaned with much Castrol SuperClean, brake parts cleaner and a scrub brush. Dont forget the LATEX GLOVES. Super Clean and perchloroethylene is some wicked stuff.

the fronts on the other hand had torn boots and deserved to be checked out. Read the factory manual on the disassembly/reassembly procedures. Check the internet for others who have done rebuilds themselves and get some tips and tricks. No shortcuts here.

If you dont have air tools, like a blow gun attatchment, get one, or find a friend/shop that has one that you can use. I imagine it would be much easier than what I did to get the pistions out and it was a struggle to get them out without air tools. Thank you Archemedes and your levers.

After the pistions were removed (there was some surface rust in the bores of my calipers, some work with a scotchbrite pad cleaned that up however) the rebuild and reinstallation of the various components was fairly easy. Liberaly grease all the greasable components(are you saving that grease for a nuclear winter or what?). Lubricate the pistion with brake fluid before reinserting it, makes it ez for sure. After the rebuild was done I cleaned and painted the calipers in a high temp(1200deg?) "Aluminum" colored paint. Strange though, "aluminum" looks very much like gloss silver. Oh well.

Goodridge lines:

The simplest of the installs with one caveat. USE THE RIGHT TOOLS FOR THE BRAKE FITTINGS. Serious. Your POS made in china(no offense to the Chinese amongst us) 8mm open end spanner thats been beat to all hell will just round off the fittings. And then youll be FUBARed for sure. Good Quality flare wrenches are a minimum.

(in the interest of full disclosure I did NOT use a flare wrench. I have a Craftsman metric spanner set that it profiled to put the force on the flats of bolt heads and not the corners. Kind of like the "Metwrench"(sp) that played on late night TV infomercials. They actually worked better than the Flare tools I had)

Uninstall old lines..install new lines. On the front fittings for the lines I had to use a Dremel sanding drum to open up the hole a bit for the Goodridge lines hardware (Thanks to Manifest for the heads up). The rears were fine and so was the clutch line attatchments(done at the same time)

Bring the BLING:




All assembled. Ooooooo, AHhhhhhh, oooooooo.


Ok Kids, pay attention. Heres where things get REALLY strange.......

Gavin

Last edited by gavin; 5-6-04 at 12:06.
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post #3 of 113 (permalink) Old 5-4-04, 18:20
 
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Like a good story... I can't wait (more please!).

-15/16 master cylinder and brake line to fit

This looks to be like my stock GT one with ABS. It even has 2 fittings, if you can flip it over I might be able to tell better. Could the master cylinder w/abs be bigger than the non abs ones?
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post #4 of 113 (permalink) Old 5-4-04, 18:22
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manifest
Like a good story... I can't wait (more please!).
I'm not the only one!

I'm at work trying to get some things done and keep checking to see if he's made the latest post yet!!

Beach.
'91 GT.
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How much did you pay for your ss lines? i paid 60 bucks for them 2 years ago at Stillen, how come you didnt get cross drilled rotors? they are great (at least the ones i got from stllen) they havent cracked after 2 years.

either way im happy to see you got rid off the zip tied lines.

2FAST4U
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It gets really strange

Larger master cylinder:

Note: My car is non-ABS so not all of this may be applicable to ABS equiped models.

Background: About 2 or so years ago(along with the brake bias adjuster post) I ran into this page regarding a master cylinder upgrade from 15/16" to 1" from a 93 929.

http://www.rx7turboturbo.com/robrobi...ylinder929.htm. Really interesting stuff and really good information to read. Then the topic surfaced on Probetalk ( http://forums.probetalk.com/showthre...aster+cylinder ) and I was again in the thick of things again. In fact I found out all sorts of things regarding the 2nd gen Probe/MX6 MC and the 3rd gen RX7 and the 93 929. The MC bores for the 2nd gen MX6 and the 3rd gen RX7 are the same(15/16") the archetecture of the MCs were similar and the rod stroke ratio was the same(4-1?)..Basically it would work for the 2nd genners also.

I think thats as far as it went as it didnt seem that anyone had the desire?/money?/balls? to try it. All that work for the 2nd gen and I couldnt even benefit.......or could I?

There are 2 different archetectures for the 2nd gen MCs. One that is the same as the 3rd gen RX7 and one that is....you guessed it: based on the 1st gen MC. The 1st gen master cylinder bore? 7/8". Time to go to work.



One on the right is off a 94 PGT manual(dont remember if it was ABS or not). Has 2 fittings for the brake lines, a larger interface for the brake booster is an "outie" and has a very short brake booster plunger.

One on the left is from a 96 626 automatic non-abs. Looks very much like the 1st gen master cylinder with a few changes. It has 3 fittings for brake lines and the 2 fittings for the brakes that we need to use are on the same side instead of opposite sides like the stock master cylinder. Bingo! We have a winner.

EDIT: From Chunchoy14.
Quote:
btw, the master cylinder you had for the 96 626 that had the 3 holes, the odd hole is not for the clutch line(the clutch master cylinder feeds off the reservior on the brake master). Automatic and Manual brake master cylinders(not reservoir) are the same. ABS modelled master cylinders have 2 holes, non-abs 3 holes. Reservoirs with a nipple on it is for manual cars. No nipple=automatic. You have a automatic reservior w/ a non-abs mc. Just a small clarification.



First we have to do something about that extra bottom fitting or else things are going to get messy pretty quickly. Hmm..How about a bolt cut down to fit? Sounds good to me. Metric DAMMIT, metric. Remember that.







Ok thats looking mighty good. I should note that I changed things slightly to include a new copper crush washer to get a tight leak proof seal.

Now we need to fabricate new brake lines for the other driver side outlet. You could get some stock and roll your own....but why do that when there is a more simple solution? As it turns out the hard lines on the 1st gen proportioning valve exit from the same side. Why not source a second drivers side(front) hard line from another 1stgen non-ABS car since it will exit the proportioning valve and enter the new master cylinder on the same side? Yeah...thats what I was thinking too.



How convenient that Mazda saw fit to have pre-made lines for this upgrade already. ABS guys. You may not be this lucky. If you try this you will probably have to fab your own lines.

Here are some side by side shots of the 2nd gen and 1st gen master cylinders.




Incidentally. I got both of the 2nd gen master cylinders from the junkyard and promptly rebuilt the 626 MC. They could have been perfectly fine for all I knew, but who knows? Again....NO SHORTCUTS.

Disassembly of the stock master cylinder is pretty simple, if not messy. Again..Use good quality wrenches(flare) on the brake fittings.




That would be the stock hard lines and then the refitted lines for the new master cylinder. The 2nd line only has to be slightly bent to fit correctly, massaged really. The action isnt enough to crimp or weaken the line at all as it was pretty much in the correct position already.

The last thing to be done is to install the new larger(15/16") master cylinder. But before doing that its best to bench bleed the master cylinder as it is very dry at this point. Bench bleeding the MC ensures that there is no trapped air in the MC. There are horror tales of people who have not and have suffered with spongy brakes for years(the calipers bleed without bubbles but there is still air trapped in the MC). Keep bleeding the MC until there is NO bubbles remaining its going to take time(I think I did 5 bleedings of the MC before I was satisfied).

Installed:




(gratuitous shot of the goodridge clutch line)



After all of this is done the whole system needed to be bled CORRECTLY and THOROUGHLY(can you imagine, the calipers, brake lines and proportioning valve were all without fluid? ack!).

Get a pressure bleeder if you are doing anything of this magnatude(or build your own RAMI?). It helps a lot. If not, hijack another person to help you. That way one person is checking the flow of fluid and checking for bubbles while the other is working the brake pedal. AGAIN Dont **** this up. Get it right even if it takes a while. No cheating.

I worked by my self bleeding the system(speedbleeders rock) and had a gallon of the cheapest brake fluid to run through the lines. I normally use ATE super Blue as my regular fluid, but the cheap stuff was welcome because...it was cheap(duh) and its clear color was better to check for bubbles than the ATE super Blue(which is ,surprise surprise, blue in color). Overall I did 3 full brake flushes(with one more to go with the ATE super Blue) and went through a half gallon of brake fluid.


Did it work?

You bet it did! I had to adjust the brake booster plunger depth to get the correct clearance to the master cylinder(manual sez 0mm of play with no preload), but it is EXACTLY as advertised.

A firm...No I mean FIRM pedal. There is about a 1/2-3/4"? of movement of the brake pedal and then thats it, no more movement. The feel of the brakes is outstanding. The folks who have done this for other cars speak in terms of "better resolution" when they refer to the feel of the brakes. This is the same term I would have to use. There seems to be much more feedback into what is happening with the brakes. Its now pressure, not pedal travel, that determines what % of braking power you have. Nice.

Why did I do this? Partially to see if I could(someone pointed out that no one else has done this for the 1st gen....ever. It made me pause to think about that).

As I autocross more and more I am looking for tools to help me be a better driver. Having the ability to feel the brakes better is a great tool I thought I could use. Left foot braking is also another thing that I would like to use and with the increased feel of the brake pedal I feel more confident of putting my left foot down. Previously my left foot felt "uncalibrated" in trying to use the stock brakes and its longer pedal travel, now things feel a bit more natural.

It worked, and I KNEW it could



Ok before I go on to the next bit of madness. Beding in brakes. Read the instructions that come with your aftermarket pads. If not for that, there are very good techincal articles on the net (check Stoptechs site for thier tecnical papers, good reading)

I did 5 runs, on a very unused road(this is a must) of 40-15mph moderate braking and then 60-15mph hard braking, sat for a while to cool the brakes(parking brake off) and then repeated with 10 60-15mph hard braking runs. Youll be smelling the pads at this point(I had smoke billowing out of the rims). Let cool for the day(parking brakes off). Check them the next day. Drive.



OK...If you are still with me this far....The last bit of madness, the piece de resistance.


Gavin

Last edited by gavin; 5-6-04 at 12:15.
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post #7 of 113 (permalink) Old 5-4-04, 19:14 Thread Starter

 
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Subaru legacy 2 pot calipers

Ok. Again a bit of background.

Big brakes. Everyone wants them(mostly for the "blingier than thou" factor) But only 2 have them(Adamturbo did it himself, Spoolinboost:Hy-dra-cyl kit). If there are any others that I have forgotten I apologize but I think that the final tally.

It was 3 years ago that Rafi of RRracing came out with his "mid" kit for the 2nd gen. At 580$ it had 12" rotors on aluminum hats that could fit under the stock PGT rims. These would be clamped down on by the stock caliper that was relocated via a new mounting bracket. I thought this was great and immediately e-mailed Rafi To ask when the 1st gen kit would be available. You can imagine my shock when I found that no such kit would be forthcoming.

Rafi is a good fellow and he absolutely DID NOT say this in so many words, but the implication was; even at this low price, 1st genners wouldnt spend the money. It was a crushing blow. He had to be wrong about that, I thought. Surely people would come marching to his door demanding that product....but I know of no one else who has petitioned him to make that kit available...in hindsight, he was right

Things get better though about a year or so later as Racey-Stacy puts feelers out for the logistics of getting a 12-13" Willwood/Brembo/Whoever kit for the 1st gen. ( http://forums.probetalk.com/showthre...aster+cylinder )

At this point I had decided to see if there was something like the sentra/NX2000 converson that could be done for the 1st gen. A rotor from "x" car and a caliper from "y" car. The parts would be easily accessable, simple to build by a DIYer, replacement parts would be cheap(no need to get expensive Brembo pads when simple rabestos pads will work with the setup). I had done a LOT of research into this going through the measurements of hundreds of cars and manufacturers(at one point I had anxiety brake dreams the numbers were just spilling out of my head)

So again Im right in the middle of it Busting full of tech. Unfortunately This all came to a grinding halt.

Mazda has a pretty unique set of dimensions that they use for the front hub/rotor (dont even get me started on the rear rotors) Pretty much no other car in the world uses the combination that Mazda did(not even Mazda). Amazingly the NSX rear rotors will probably fit as they are withing a few mm of the rotor backspacing(but how much is an NSX rotor again?, never mind).

The closest I got was the front rotors and calipers from a Lexus SC400 coupe.



(top set of calipers (with the sube's right under them), and top right rotor)

11.8"diameter, 1.3"thick rotor. 52mm backspacing, 62mm hub center(ours is 64mm so it would have to be punched out at a machine shop to fit) 5x114.3 bolt circle, Twin piston caliper...its looking good but. It was heavier than all Hades. My lord! Toyota uses the heaviest steel known to mankind. It was about 2-3 times the weight of the stock components....so why bother with that?


I had been corresponding with Dutch626 over the years about my trials and tribulations regarding the brake project. It was his suggestion that perhaps I should look at a car that was more similar in class to ours...and so it was that on a trip to the junkyards I spot a 96 Legacy 2.5L GT 4wd. I think to myself....."hmmmm....maybe".





I did a quick check and they are very close in size to our single pot calipers. This would be good as fitment wouldnt dictate using a different rim(?). The calper bracket mounting holes were Oh so close at about 2-3mm off the stock holes(relocation bracket?) Hmmm. In any case, I had other fish to fry, the brake project had been a great learning experience(albeit without results) and stopped the project for a bit(like a year).

Now that I had a chance to pull the whole braking system apart I decided to revisit this chapter again. Sure enough..with both caliper brackets next to each other the mount holes were just a bit off.



naturally, thats the Legacy bracket on top and the stocker on the bottom.


My memory was a bit fuzzy about this but for whatever reason I thought the subaru pads were smaller than the 1st gens(this turns out not to be true as I measured both pads for circumference/area and they are pretty much the same).



(stock on top, suby on the bottom)

By the way, this is why our brakes dont "suck" as much as folks say(or would like to believe). For a car offered in 88 the rotors are not as small as people make out and the pad material is quite large. Larger pad material is able to give a certain amount of friction/brake torque with less pressure and without as much heat.

And so I start to think to myself...wouldnt it be nice if I could use the 2 pots from the Subaru thats able to put a more evenly distributed amount of clamping force on a larger pad like from the 1st gen. I mean...all you would need to do would be to use the stock 1st gen caliper bracket(which naturally fits the spindle and houses the pads) and use the Legacy caliper without its original caliper bracket....but that could never work.......XO

HEY!... WAIT A MINUITE!!!!

SUNOFABITCH!!!



Dead on to the last micrometer!

The mounting holes to the spindle dont fit but the caliper bolt/slider pins are dead on!!






When I bolted it all up it seemed to be made for the car. I was practically doing backflips. The only difference is that the Legacy calipers use a longer slider pin than on our cars. Problem? No problem. Just swap them, the pitch of the treaded holes are the same. I couldnt believe it. 2 years of thinking this through and on a lark I come across the right donor vehicle. Unbelievable.

Heres some interesting data:
Quote:
-Stock single piston diameter: 54mm
-Legacy dual piston diameter: 38mm x 2

From as much as Ive gathered, its a simple relationship between area of piston sizes which determines braking force.

area=Pi x Radius x Radius

stock 54mm piston:
radius=27mm
3.14 x 27 x 27= 2290sq mm

Legacy 38mm piston(x2)
radius=19mm
(3.14 x 19 x 19) x2= 2267sq mm

A quick check on the math shows the difference between the two is @ 1% in favor of the stock single piston caliper.

Basically the two calipers will put out the same braking force...BUT the twin piston calipers will put that force over a more evenly distibuted area over the brake pad instead of a very large, but central, point.
And here is the kicker to this merry story.

I cant use them

Thats right, I cant use them. SCCA SOLO2 Street Prepared rules have no allowances for swapped or otherwise non-stock calipers. But you know what? I am not dissapointed one bit. I figured it out. I FARKING figured it out and IT WORKS. DAMMIT IT WORKS.

And so ends the saga of Gavin and his brakes. Ive had fun. Closure is a good thing.

Hope this has been informative and helpful to you all. Ill say it again, if anyone is going to consider anything that I have done here, in part or in whole, please be sure you are up to the task of such a project. This wouldnt be the time to find out that you werent and have an "ooops". Get a manual, investigate thoroughly to educate yourself of what needs to be done, torque values are your friend, check and recheck.

comments, critiqes....all welcome.

Gavin

Last edited by gavin; 12-6-05 at 13:38.
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post #8 of 113 (permalink) Old 5-4-04, 19:39
 
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Those axxis pads last forever, man. 2 years of city driving and they still have a ton of bite left. Completely noise free, too. Never squeaked once for me like those el cheapo pads. My brembos have been good, too....you should have got cross drilled ones though.

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Gavin, this should go in the the "Gavin's Suspension Projects" Sub Forum of the Faq's!

When/if my calipers ever go, I'm seriously going to look into performing the "Gavin's Subaru Brake Mod."

ex-owner of: a 90 626 GT Touring Sedan 5 Door "scalded weasel", and previously a '89 MX6 DX
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I dont really have a need for crossdrilled rotors. The performance isnt there and the price isnt worth it(not for how fast Im going through front rotors, but I hope that will change).

Probe_racer..The brake lines were a straight trade with Dutch626 for rebuilt rear calipers(and whatever else I sent him at the time. We have been shipping a lot back and forth these past months)

Gavin
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Very nice. You're always coming up with something new. Very impressive. I need to do something like that to my 1st gen. Hmmmm...I have a spare mc and reservior. Which brake line did you use for the proportioning valve again? 2nd gen non-abs one correct? The frontmost(towards the front of the car) hard line on the mc? I'm tempting to try this as I need to redo my whole brake system on the 6 anyways.


btw, the master cylinder you had for the 96 626 that had the 3 holes, the odd hole is not for the clutch line(the clutch master cylinder feeds off the reservior on the brake master). Automatic and Manual brake master cylinders(not reservoir) are the same. ABS modelled master cylinders have 2 holes, non-abs 3 holes. Reservoirs with a nipple on it is for manual cars. No nipple=automatic. You have a automatic reservior w/ a non-abs mc. Just a small clarification.

96 merlot mica M-edition121k miles new toy!
95 Viper Blue Mazda Mx-6 M62 SC'ed and MS'ed KLZE 85k on body and motor.
89 White mx6 gt- 90k crashed*RIP* 88 mx6 gt blown headgasket- *RIP
88 mx6 gt 150k new motor soon 1991 Mazda Miata
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post #12 of 113 (permalink) Old 5-5-04, 7:24
 
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ok, just to make sure I am understanding this, I can get front calipers off the '96 Legacy, use our stock mounting bracket with the scoobies caliper, and it will bolt right on? The end was just a little confusing to me, and I'm at work so I was reading it while I was doing *some* work. I'll try to re-read it later when I get home to try to help clarify it for me, but would you mind answering it anyways?
I now have some serious reading to do.
Thanks Gavin, your posts about what you are able to do with the 6 are always great to read.

Tommy ~ 88MX6GT ~ HybridMX6 ~ BoostedMazda (I have too many names)
1998 Ford F150 4x4 Supercab Longbed - Stock and stayin that way.
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post #13 of 113 (permalink) Old 5-5-04, 12:23
 
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Thumbs up

MR. Gavin.....................
u did it man!!!!!!!!!!!! i remember emailing u about 2 years ago...u were thinking about making a bb-kit without spending huge amounts of $$$ and for me .
last week i got your "YEAHHHHHHHHHHHHH i think ive done it"
since we talk a lot trade a lot i was like what in the world has he done????????

i think this is a super payable mod. for us 1st genners without going crazy about money.
u got my Karma for this.
thanks for investing so much time and effort into this. after seeing all this i know its all been worthwhile...
(im proud to be one of the 1st to knew about this project.. )

see ya on MSN...and make room in the fridge..

hi, my name is Dutch and i used to be a Mazdaholic
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post #14 of 113 (permalink) Old 5-5-04, 12:27 Thread Starter

 
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Chunchoy14...Thanks for the clarification. It has been a long time since I picked that MC up. (I could have sworn it was a manual 626 but it appears that I was smoking much crack at the time). Ive added your correction to my original post.

The extra brake line is from another 1st gen non-ABS (I cleared that up a bit more in the original post also).

AND....credit where credit is due. If you remember the first time we met at your house in SF I was checking out the parts in your garage. Thats when I first saw the 2nd gen master cylinder on your shelf and I asked about it. I was trying to get information for the "larger master cylinder" thread on PT back then. Your master cylinder gave me the answer that I needed and was the catalyst that kept me moving to the point where we are at now.


88MX6GT....You got it. Ill reread that last section again to see if it was too confusing. Sometimes I get ahead of myself and things start getting non-linear(its how my head works, but it doesnt make sense if post that way)

Gavin
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post #15 of 113 (permalink) Old 5-5-04, 12:54 Thread Starter

 
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Hey Frank! You bet I remember all of that, I thought..wow somone else is interested in my crackpot ideas? What a world. Im glad I kept with it over the years (and you kept asking from time to time how things were going). Yep it works...No it isnt 14" rotors with 6 pot Alcons...but its something, and it counts.


Now..... there was a rumor that Jamharr Bowman had a set of 2 pot calipers on his car from a Capella Estate. If thats true, I wonder what the casting marks on the calipers would be. Hmmmm.

Gavin
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