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KL into 89PGT

49K views 137 replies 21 participants last post by  chief tool 
#1 · (Edited)
I really want to do this. Why? Because my F2T is being rebuilt and I wrecked my 96PGT so the motor is doing nothing. I don't think it has ever been done so why not try. I like the KL, but when my F2 is ready it is going in. I had just bought Pacesetter headers, KLG4 manifold and Outlaw Spacers just before the accident. Plus I have a 75 shot. I wanna see how quick it will be.
 
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#97 ·
I dont think there will be an issue and most cars that have a G series trans use the diff housing as a mount....
 
#98 ·
As do ours, just the other (intermediate shaft) side.

I'm not saying you will have a problem, just stating it is not the standard mount point. If you have the rear inner mount (I don't remember on the 1g F2/F2T), the combination of both will probably be better assuming you haven't extremely stressed either to get them to line up without modification.
 
#101 ·
The front one is off by about 3-4 inches.

The side mount is a little more than an inch off. The engine need to be pushed back on the passenger side a bit to even this out, then the mount needs to be extended out, so it will bolt up. Easy fix.


The driver side trans mount need some L shaped brackets welded to the frame to bolt it in place.
 
#103 ·

The driver side trans mount need some L shaped brackets welded to the frame to bolt it in place.
Is that mount of a GT or LX? 5 speed or AUTO. The 5 speed passenger for the GT looks that it might fit better than that one. I know there's a diffrence in between the GT AUTO PASSENGER MOUNT & the 5 Speed.
 
#110 · (Edited)
It's time

OK guys the end has come. The mounts are in place. The shifter stablizer was lengthend the mount bracket were fabbed and the frame was notched for the drain plug. As soon as a get is back from the shop. Pics will be ASAP. All I need to do is put this baby under insurance and get stickers for it. Then is finished. After that the G4 mani and phenos are going on. Then MAF conversion. Also need spacers for the rear FD's. Then mounts being used are 1G N/A mount a 1G N/A rear mount a 2nd gen front and driver side mount
 
#113 ·
I used a 91 MX6 N/A ATX upper pass. mount. I'll post pictures when i have the car at my house which should be at around 10pm or so. The mount brackets were fabbed up. The shifter stab. was lengthened also.
 
#112 ·
I suggest that you make a full write up later and expalne how to do this swap for further reference. :tup: I would like to see this swap done on a 1st gen MX6 as well. Keep up the hard work and you will reap the benifits of a 200 hp N/A beast. BTW what is the gross weight difference between the first and second gen?
 
#114 ·
The gross on my 91 MX6 N/A ATX is 3750 on my 96 PGT MTX is 3792. Not much. The curb weight on a 89PGT is 2870 on a 96PGT it's 2921. The weight difference isn't much at all, but with my weight reduction it should be.
No A/C or P/S
ABS delete
rear wiper delete
Manual rack
Spare tire well delete.
Heater core, evaporator, vents, a/c controls gone
Slim fans
FD's :tup:
i have full interior though.
any misc brackets and bolts that weren't needed.
the 1g doesn't have all of that airbag stuff.
We will see I will be racing my friends 2g with cold air intake and exhaust
I will have PS headers with straight pipe(for now until I can get a resonator and muffler) and a cone filter.

I had weighed my car at the track w/ the F2T and before all of this weight reduction and it weighed in at 2807.
 
#123 ·
i cant believe mx 6 s weigh more than probes i always thought it was the other way around
Then you would have though right. The Mx6 and 626 4door (which weights only 50 or 60 lbs more the the mx6) are both lighter then the probe. The probe is more aerodynamic though.

BlueInfinity48 nice build and nice work (I think you did it backwards, F2T in second gen).

It looks like there is a lot more room on both sides of the block, easier to change the timing belt and run the air intake...

Is it slow all the way through the power band? or are you just missing the low end torque of the F2T.

Sometimes torque and horsepower can be confusing/hard to read, torque delivers sudden acceleration and pins you to your seat, Horsepower feels more gradual and with no sudden jumps in the band will feel slower then it actually is.
 
#118 ·
Car needs an alignment bad! I need a burp tank. new brake booster and master cylinder. need probably a slave cylinder for the clutch too. NEEDS muffler. its running PS headers no cat and a resonator. I don't know if it just me, but the car feels REALLY slow. I hope its because there is no backpressure. or just because i'm driving a 1g and think it should be faster. we will see when i fix everything. i'll feel better. or maybe something happened to the motor in the wreck.
 
#119 ·
I hope its because there is no backpressure.
horseshit...why would any pump want backpressure? Too big of piping maybe...but not too likely, the kl breathes pretty good. My buddy used to run a 3" on his N/A due to free parts and he liked the sound, and had the fastest one in the valley for a long time, with mostly simple bolt ons...anytime I do a project, I'm always disappointed the first time I drive it, too.

We tried driving his aorund with no exhasut for a couple days, hard as hell to keep quiet...we would turn it off as we passed the sheriff's house and coast...
 
#124 · (Edited)
I noticed two vacuum ports hooked to nothing. just open. the intake tube has a hole from the nitrous nozzle. i think the brake booster hose has cracks in it. i will also check my vris.. also the alignment is off pretty bad so when i get on it the tire vibration and squeels and shit. let me fix my problems and then get next to a 2g and see what happens.

OK when i pull out my dipstick my car shuts off. i pulled it out half way it sputtered then i pushed it back and it smoothed out.
 
#125 ·
I would do a compression test on it just to see what sort of health the motor is in.....you can never tell with junkyard motors.

If someone has been running nitrous on it...there could be a few problems....nitrous is notorious for contributing to an early death for alot of motors.
 
#130 · (Edited)
That's a really cool project though, nice work.
How many hours would you estimate you have invested? I'm right around the 400 hour mark at this point with my Ranger....
 
#132 ·
Update:

Hey guys it has been a while since I have posted in here, but the car feels amazing. Bought a keyless remote awhile back. Programmed it. Works like a charm. I ended up taking off the PS headers and put the stock logs and y-pipe on. Sounds so much better. Throwout bearing went out and destroyed the input shaft. Bought a tranny from polarexpress, Duralast HP clutch from AutoZone and a Fidanza from dan san. I also did the MAF conversion. Still working on boost, but before I boost, my next big project is to put in A/C and heater. and then eventually wire up the factory boost gauge and VMM. I had removed the ducting and everything. So far I have wired up the HVAC controls to the blower motor assembly. I will posted pics. Since I am using a complete 96 harness I cant use the HVAC control because they wont fit in the dash, so I will have a separate circuit for this. When I install the ducts and everything back behind the dash. I will have to wire in the illumination and the clutch cycling switch. The wire from the switch to the comp. clutch is already ran through the factory '96 harness.
The a/c lines will be the hardest part. I have the factory 89 condensor, evap, and accum. I also have the line from the evap to the condensor, which is factory from the 89. I will need a line from the accum. to the compressor and from the compressor to the the cond. I will keep you updated on this.
 
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