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KL into 89PGT

49K views 137 replies 21 participants last post by  chief tool 
#1 · (Edited)
I really want to do this. Why? Because my F2T is being rebuilt and I wrecked my 96PGT so the motor is doing nothing. I don't think it has ever been done so why not try. I like the KL, but when my F2 is ready it is going in. I had just bought Pacesetter headers, KLG4 manifold and Outlaw Spacers just before the accident. Plus I have a 75 shot. I wanna see how quick it will be.
 
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#2 ·
well.....quit messin around and get it in there.....it'll be interesting to see the results.
 
#5 ·
Hmm, its not impossible, but like anything non factory, ask yourself why you need to do it as it will add an increased risk of problems.

I would have thought that the transmission placement would be more or less the same position as an F2 NA, Therefore no probs with driveshaft fitment.
 
#10 ·
Because my F2T is being rebuilt [/IMG]
didnt you have a supposely built motor and being rebuilt:(. i still have my stock motor running great. i guess now you need to actually tune the car. :confused:
 
#13 ·
I have the Wisecos and Pauters, the oil pump went out and i spun a few bearings. So i have to rebuild. my colt cam was destroyed as was the head.
just getting a new crank, bearings, rings, then the head is being built with Ferrea valve train.
 
#11 ·
I've thought about this on and off.

You can fit both a KL and an FE3/F2T into a BG chassis, using a mix of OEM mounts.

Therefor, you SHOULD be able to fit a KL into this chassis as well. As well as a BPT. (But why?)
 
#14 ·
Not sure how fast you till be doing this, but I will be mocking the setup into ont of my cars late this summer...from what I know about mounts...ytou can do it the way you describ ed, but the car will b every torque biased in one direction...when I did my gl to gt swap, I didn't know that mount was different, and ran a while like that, car always pulled the same direction no matter the conditions...I was planning on trying it with both gt mounts for the top 2, then custom brackets for the front/rear trans mounts...not the highest priority project atm, otherwise I would say I could do it soon...got a new dd I wanna get running, and a 1gen mx6 I'll be prepping for a local figure 8 derby race...
 
#16 ·
Ahhh the fun of splicing wiring harnesses.

Looking good so far, can you take a close up pic of the clearance between the engine and firewall.
 
#17 ·
I responded to your post on pt for this bit...but here it is again...look under the car where the rear mount should be on the 1gen...the trans will have 2 through bolts where the case halves come together...all the others just go intot he front part of the case...2 go through and have nuts on the other side...a n/a 1gen mount will bolt there, just not sure if it lines up w/ the crossmember, but you should let me know;)
 
#20 ·
Oh yeah plenty of room. lol I'm almost done wiring the headlights, turn signals and sidemarkers. Cool thing is that the wire colors are the same, so it isn't that hard, just getting the 1g dash switches and stuff to function like factory.
 
#21 ·
Thats true, the most annoying part is the dash harness....

But when I did mine on the GC, I decided to wire the power windows so they work without the key in the ignition....something that I hate about cars with power windows!

Now youve got it apart you can modify anything that your not happy with.
 
#27 ·
This thread is relevant to my interests... Subscribed. :tup:

Swapping entire harnesses is probably much simpler than splicing into the original. Gauges may not work anymore, but at least the ECU connections will be solid.

For those complaining about firewall clearances on the 2g, be happy (if) you have an MX-6 because the PGT has the engine about 1.5" further back in the bay. Sure, that means plenty of clearance at the radiator, but it's a bitch dealing with anything in the back.
 
#28 ·
I swapped the dash harness. The ECU is solid. The 2G ignition switch went right in to the 1G key lock cylinder, so that plugged right in. The car cranks. Just debating whether I should swap the chassis harness or just find out what wire goes where. I got the hazard switch to function. Having trouble with the headlight switch though in the off position the headlights are on and with I turn the switch on the headlamp go to brights. I'm following the diagrams HMM.
 
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