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valentiner 9-1-19 5:44

JDM Engine Swap Questions for '93 MX-3 . . .
Sorry to barge in on this forum, but is all but dead, last post in like 2016, and no-one seems to be monitoring it anymore (it was chock full of impatient Cannucks anyway; had to be careful when posting). OK, so, Labor Day I am going to boneyard to grab an M/T and Flywheel off a '94 MX-6 (got lucky and found one; may be the last good donor in the Phoenix Metro)(yeah, I know; my MX-3 Flywheel is lighter; I just thought the heavier wheel would make for smoother shifting; I don't plan on racing anyone). I plan to do a JDM KL-DE curved neck swap. First question: Being that I have a '93 MX-3, does it matter what year the JDM engine is from? Like, should I try to locate a JDM of a specific year or years range for ease of swap? Question 2: Should I also grab the half-shaft off the 6? (is it interchangeable with the MX-3's?) Question 3: I haven't had time to search out info about the ECM complexities; would the '94 MX-6 ECM be of any use for my swap (should I grab it?)? Question 4: Is it possible to delete the EGR and pass emissions? (I read it's not needed with the KL-ZE swap, but dunno about emissions testing issues with that either). Any additional informational tips I haven't thought of asking about yet are of course welcomed input. And no, just kidding; I don't have any problems with our Canadian friends, except for maybe that female ex-Prime Minister of about 5 whole months . . . whose been busily deleting rude and obnoxious Tweets lately. Ha!

valentiner 9-1-19 19:23

I meant intermediate shaft; not half-shaft.

NickR 9-1-19 21:43

1. I don't think the year matters. The 93 MX6 (dunno about the MX3) had an extra coolant temp sensor that controlled the fans, (but you can always swap the neck from near the coolant filler cap if needed). The 93-94 MX6 had slightly different wiring to the distributor from the 95-97 (but you can swap the disty if needed).

2. I don't know. But those intermediate shafts are now unobtainium, so grab it just in case.

3. I don't know. But the KLZE has different VRIS points, if I remember correctly, so I would grab it just in case. It might run better.

4. I don't know.

This board is getting pretty quiet too, is even quieter, and ProbeTalk is dead, so stick around.

valentiner 9-1-19 23:10

Lol, Hi NickR~! I will grab the extra stuff then. I won't be going anywhere; nowhere else to go! I hope to do my engine swap by next spring, and I expect I will have plenty of questions then. On an aside, I recently bought a New IAC valve that showed up on eBay. It made no difference for my horsepower loss problem. I measured the resistance before installing it at 12.5 ohms. For a goof, I again measured it on the old IAC; same, 12.5 ohms. I had previously measured it at 13+ ohms, which is why I replaced it. I probably measured it hot and got a bad measurement.

Now, my neighbor suggests doing the basics, like checking the timing. There are 3 reasons why I have not. 1. I have swapped the disty, but carefully marked the position, so, I don't see how the timing could be off. 2. When I did my timing belt, I did not put back my T belt covers. I threw away the one for the engine left side (all I think they do is retain heat), and tried to install a skeletonized Right side cover, the one with the timing marks, but, I literally couldn't fit it back into place, so I left it off. 3. I don't have a Timing Light! But, can the timing sneak itself out of whack somehow???

Looks like I will have to limp it along until I do the engine swap, at this rate. I really can't stand having a car that doesn't run right; drives me nuts. But it is what it is, I guess. At least I don't worry about being stranded again; my feeling of it is that it won't get any worse.

Goodbar 9-2-19 8:42

Get a timing light, a cheap one is sufficient. It makes a world of difference when you get the timing spot on the specification.I spent a couple of hours once getting the last half a degree car runs just like new, incredibly smooth. Plus now you will have a tool that you can easily test spark with.

It is near impossible to pass emissions with a KLZE engine. I didn't know AZ was very stringent yet on emissions tests.

The car will run fine and noticeably faster with a KLZE need to swap ECM.....vris shift points will be different, so near impossible to get those exact or alter them.

valentiner 9-2-19 12:41

well, I had it in my mind to get a often called KLZE with a curved neck (pretty sure they are more like a KLDE unless they have a straight neck intake). With a MX-3, it is too hard to try to fit a Straight neck, and I THINK the other type curved neck will go in, even though it looks somewhat different than the 1.8L curved neck that I have. The other two options would be: 1. Get a legit KLZE and use my smaller curved neck intake, or 2. Grab an intake from the junk yard off a 626/MX-6/Probe if it is curved neck.

Just got back from boneyard; my donor was crushed. I didn't have the money needed at the time. So, the search continues for a good tranny donor.

I think I will try adjusting the timing by hit 'n miss adjustments since I don't have the timing mark in place.

Good to hear I shouldn't need a different ECM for the engine swap.

Goodbar 9-3-19 10:14

I am not sure if you are looking for the whole KLZE engine, or just the intake manifold. I happen to have both a curved neck and a straight neck manifold I would like to get rid of. You really need to get a timing light and put back the timing marker, so you can do the timing......

valentiner 9-3-19 12:54

10-4 on the timing/mark. What is the curved neck off? Is it different from all the JDM's I see? And, how much would you need shipped to 85014 in Phoenix, AZ? Thanks Oh; I am interested in a Long-Block purchase.

valentiner 9-3-19 12:54

(if it is different, can you include a couple photos?)

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