-My Version of the wandering Idle Fix:
Do this before touching your TPS sensor or cleaning the IAC and you will save yourself a lot of time. I'm not trying to say the IAC is not the problem but I have never had that problem with any coolant type.
I have never cleaned the IAC but I have fixed this problem, It's not a clogged IAC it is air, those tiny coolant lines connected to the IAC are very difficult to get the air bubbles out of. I can tell you how I did it but remember I am using Evans coolant which is waterless and creates a zero pressure system, what does this mean? I can take off the radiator caps when the car is at its hottest and it will never blow up on me so I can do this when the car is hot, for you have to do this cold and not running. (I have performed this both ways with the same effect)
REMEMBER NEVER REMOVE YOUR RADIATOR CAP WHEN THE ENGINE IS HOT NO MATTER WHAT I HAVE DONE IN THE PAST, ALWAYS PERFORM THIS PROCEDURE WITH THE CAR COLD AND NOT RUNNING, OK, now:
First, remove the water neck radiator cap and insert a funnel (a plastic one which is big enough to seal the entire hole, the medium size blue one from schucks is what i used) make sure the other radiator cap is still on,then fill the funnel with coolant, grab the upper radiator hose and gently/slowly squeeze until you get a visible current in the funnel, squeeze, squeeze, about 20 times you should start noticing air bubbles burping out of the funnel. After a while the bubbles stop, replace the cap start the car. Hey would you look at that the idle is fixed.
If anyone has a better way to do this let me know.
This is the method in which the rep. at Evan's Cooling Systems uses either use a vacuum pump on the IAC lines to start the flow (small lines work best when they have a siphon first) but I do not have the pump so the method I described is what he told me to do. I had adjusted the TPS and Idle switch with no effect, I burped the system and it fixed the problem instantly.
Evan's Coolant is the best money I have ever spent on my car, look it up. The guys at Corksport recommended it to me for the ZE. I have been using it for a few years now and its wonderful. Be sure to get the NPG+ coolant if you want to get 300,000 miles+ out of it, the race (R) formula has to be changed like normal coolant.
-Front Control arm damper bushings:
Has everybody else consistently destroyed the Right hand side front control arm damper bushing on a 50,000 mile cycle. I have replaced this stupid thing 4 times now. If your car feels like its wandering on a turn when you are pressing the gas then check your front damper bushings, grab the wheel when it is jacked up and do the same procedure for checking the tie rod ends but observe the bushing where the control arm joins to the subframe, if the control arm moves where it joins to the subframe you need a new bushing.
If you need Ball Joints at the same time then this is a good time to do them, or just buy complete reman control arms from ebay.
Last edited by 62sick; 2-3-06 at 2:08.