I made this write-up to have all of the info in one place, mainly for myself. When I wrote this, I didn't think there would be this much info. And I can only guess that it is 100% complete. You can do what you like with this thread, kill it or make it sticky. All I know is that it really could benifit the newbies and stop the repeated questions.
And just as a little "don't blame me" side note; don't believe everything you read on the message boards. I didn't just make this stuff up, I spent hours each day looking through different threads on PT and MX6.com conferming everything I could. ALWAYS DO YOUR OWN RESEARCH!!!! There could be mistakes in this write-up but I tried to make it bullet proof. If you go by this and your ZE blows up, don't blame me.
Special thanks to scubasteve, I figured out the vacuum hoses!!
and everybody else that runs a ZE in the MX6/Probe!
Damn I love the internet!
Thinking of buying a KLZE?
Updated (Nov. 7, 2006) by everyone that has boosted a ZE:
Money, for most people is the biggest issue when making a decision to modify a car. Buying a KLZE is a great place to start. It's not an expensive engine compared to others, and will be a joy to learn from and drive, daily. It is very possible to super/turbocharger a ZE and enjoy it as well, but the costs will be greater. The costs will include the engine, F/I setup, install, tuning, skill, and time. If you are lacking any of those areas, start small, then work your way up. You will learn a lot and you will have a lot more hands on experience in the end.
And to add to this thread to try and cut down on the "I have a 4 cylinder and want to swap the ZE in" threads...
Here are some ideas for the fellow 6'ers that have the I4:
1. You will need a lot more than just the ZE to put it into your car. Basiclly, anything that is different from the I4 to V6 needs to be replaced. It can be done, but the costs could be higher.
2. Sell your I4. Yup, sell it. You take that money from the sale, and buy a LS with high miles or a bad engine, then put the ZE in.
Option 2 is by far, in my opinion, the best.
Now for some stats:
The compression of the KLZE is 10:1. The KLDE (KL03) is 9.2:1.
The HP rating for the ZE is [email protected]
The KLDE is 164hp @ 6000rpm('93 only), 164hp @ 5600rpm ('94-97).
The torque for the ZE is 160ft/lbs @ 5000rpm (Have heard 180). The DE is 156ft/[email protected]
4000 ('93only), 160ft/lbs @ 4800 ('94-97).
The interesting thing about the ZE and DE torque # are that they are almost the same. What you don't see by looking at the numbers is that the peak torque of the ZE holds out longer.
REQUIRED WHEN BUYING A KLZE:
You should know these part numbers so you dont get ripped off! Don't buy another DE with the ZE IM!
1) IM: Make sure its not the EUNOS 800, I hear it has a problem fitting. The ZE IM has a longer neck to the TB, just look at the 03 IM and the ZE IM and you will see the difference.
2) TB: Should read KL31
3) HEADS: One should read KL31-101 and the other KL31-1A1
4) CAMS: Should read KL-31
5) PISTONS: Pull a spark plug and shine a light down in there to see the top of the piston. Make sure they are flat.
6) Check/Change hoses.
7) Change timing belt.
8) Change the water pump.
9) Use your KLDE disty.
10) You will need an aftermarket air intake. The stock intake(box and all) will not fit do to the longer neck on the ZEs IM. If you get a HotShot, you will either have to modify the air flow meter to TB elbow or make sure the stock one is still flexable or else the AFM will point right at the battery and nothing will fit.
Put these, and anything else, on the engine/car while the ZE is OUT. The main point being that it is easier/cheaper to install aftermarket/new stuff with the engine out.
Just a note to keep:
For the UR Ultra S Crank Pulley & RR-Racing Crank Pulley:
• Alternator and A/C Belt: Use Gates K050380 (38.75” or 985MM) – Alternator w/o A/C: Use Dayco 315K5 (31.5” or 800 MM)
• Power Steering and Water Pump Belt: Use Gates K040355 (36 1/8” or 920MM).
THE ECU AND VAF/MAF:
Update (Nov. 7, 2006) by BShark for options depending on year:
1) You can use the a-spec ECU with the a-spec VAF(Haynes calls it a MAF), but you won't get all the power out of the ZE.
2) Get the j-spec ECU and MX-3 MAF. Pull the wire to the ECU from the speedo to "fix" the limiter.
1) Swap the OBDII harness to OBDI, and anything else required to run OBDI (Not as bad as it sounds).
2) Use MSD (digital) window switches and an AFPR to manually adjust the VRIS points and fuel curves.
An option for all years is to get a MegaSquirt standalone engine management system. Read more on mx6.com. probetalk.com, megasquirt.info, and msefi.com.
From Mark Smith aka KCV6 on PT:
Part Numbers for j-spec ECU and MX-3 MAF:
ECU: as it appears on the label.
KL31 18 881F
I have also seen JE50 197200-0070.
Note: You need to use the right ECU/MAF combonation. The MX-3 MAF and the a-spec (stock MX-6) VAF do NOT output the same signal to the ECU.
Emissions are different in Japan. They use something else but thats not important.
The EGR recycles exhaust gases back into the IM to lower emissions.
The hole in the head seems to be there, but is not used or sealed off. You can just swap over your 03 EGR stuff.
Vacuum hoses: (from scubasteve w/mods)
There are 2 small differences in the IM of the ZE compared to the 03. Use scubasteves ZE install write-up for a nice diagram (It's in the projects forum, 2nd gen).
(Looking in the engine bay from the front)
1. On the back right side of the DE IM, there are some nipples, one of them comes from the vacuum chambers under the IM. This one nipple is on the back left side of the ZE IM.
2. On the front right side runner of the DE IM, there are 2 nipples, one above the other. The top one leads to the cruise control and the bottom one leads to the FPR control valve. The ZE does NOT have the top nipple. No problem. Splice the bottom line and put a "T" pipe peice in between the cut hose. Then take your old top nipple hose and plug it into the "T".
Continue with scubasteves write-up
for more indepth install tips and how to run your ZE for the first time!
Mike 94PGT Edit: Please don't take offense anyone, but to keep this thread truly clean, simple and useful, I'll condense additions to this original thread and delete posts as necessary. This isn't meant as a slight in any way, only to keep this thread, as an FAQ/info thread, crystal clear.
05/31/02 Re: Fuel Injectors & Rails
- an upgraded FPR (fuel pressure regulator) is a good idea. The ability to add a few PSI of rail pressure allows tuning the WOT fuel delivery without adversely affecting the closed-loop operation. The KLZE seems to like anywhere from 3-6 PSI higher rail pressure than the KLDE. YMMV.
- from Stingray77
Millenia S injectors are a drop-in and flow more than KLDE injectors. The engine may run rich with these injectors without additional tuning (e.g. fuel pressure). They may be more suitable for use when adding F/I to the KLZE.
- from mazdarabbit
A possible source of upgraded KLDE injectors is Rafi at www.rr-racing.com
don't remember when,
For 95+ cars, you might have this problem...
Jeff Jeske from PT has a site about the intermediate shaft.
website is a quick look at the problem.
There is a solution though.
"Get a 93-94 intermediate shaft and carrier bearing." The 93 is what Jeff used so it is a confirmed fix.
Don't forget, if something breaks in the ZE, how are you going to get replacement parts. Obviously, some DE parts fit the ZE, but some don't. Example: The intake lifters on the ZE are bigger than the intake lifters on the 03.
Here is a nice dyno chart showing the differences between a completely stock KLDE Probe GT, and a KLZE PGT: