My FE3 project... going to be a 2.3 NA - Page 4 - Mazda MX-6 Forum
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post #46 of 124 (permalink) Old 1-12-08, 19:50
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Try to take some close up pictures of the wall thickness between 1-2, 2-3, 3-4 and also ask the machinist what he thought of the job and or if he ran into any problems/could/can forsee problems in the future. What about your headgasket, 88/89mm or 90mm?



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post #47 of 124 (permalink) Old 1-13-08, 3:56 Thread Starter
 
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he said he hadent taken that job if he didnt think it would work, as long as i na tuned it.

jep i will take som pics of the thickness.

forgot to say, the head gasket is 89.

The Norwegian Reinforcement Squad

Mazda 626 2.3i 16v DOCH 1988
Mazda 626 2.2i 4WD 1990 (soon to be turbo?)

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post #48 of 124 (permalink) Old 1-14-08, 12:15 Thread Starter
 
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and the engine is back from boring

the workshop guy said it was no problems boring it, and he didnt think i would get any problems running it if i kept it na, og low low pressure compressor...











test mounted the pistons on the rods


piston fits 100%


new polished crank

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post #49 of 124 (permalink) Old 1-14-08, 12:32
 
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holy shit that block deck looks pitted to hell. was it machined?? or do my eyes fail me?
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post #50 of 124 (permalink) Old 1-14-08, 12:58 Thread Starter
 
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ohh no! its just not cleened afther the boring, so its bore grease and small metal particles, ive cleened it off now, no worries, its cleen now

also used a cell-phone camera, so the flash isnt good enugh to show the water

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post #51 of 124 (permalink) Old 1-14-08, 12:58
 
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i think thats oil or some sort of lubricant on it to prevent it from fly rust (???)
looks like theres enough meat left between the cilinders...

hi, my name is Dutch and i used to be a Mazdaholic
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post #52 of 124 (permalink) Old 1-14-08, 13:01 Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dutch View Post
i think thats oil or some sort of lubricant on it to prevent it from fly rust (???)
looks like theres enough meat left between the cilinders...
yep correct

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post #53 of 124 (permalink) Old 1-16-08, 14:02 Thread Starter
 
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a little update

Yesterday:

washed my block yesterday, after som ppl tought that the block was so pitted, here are som pictures of a shiny cleen fe3-2.3



testfitting the head gasket, fits exactly.


_________________

Today:

Have grinded my piston rings so the clarence is right, about 0.4mm
A finished piston with rings, and x-pin locks inplace


one piston tested in the block:


was so easy, sooo...

... i put all the pistons in the engine along with the crank, and voala:






probably norway's, and mybe the worlds first 2.3 na block

that som for today, will try to put on the oil pan and finish the bottom end tomorro

The Norwegian Reinforcement Squad

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post #54 of 124 (permalink) Old 1-16-08, 18:28
 
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the updated pictures look Much better, i thought it might of been metal particles but wasn't really sure, my machine shop will hot-tank the block post machining then coat it to prevent rust (so i wasn't used to seeing that)
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post #55 of 124 (permalink) Old 1-19-08, 14:26
 
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i just want to make sure i am understanding this correctly, you are using the 2.2 crank with the stock fe3 rods and the custom ross pistons?

I plan on doing the stroker to my sportage to up the tourque, as i need to push my bigger tires.
i also thought of doing a small low boost turbo, only about 4-6 psi, do you think this amount of overbore will stand up to that amount of boost?

also, were are you sourcing your regrinded cams from?

thanks for any help you can give me
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post #56 of 124 (permalink) Old 1-19-08, 15:19 Thread Starter
 
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Yep i am using a 2.2 crank, stock rods and custom pistons from ross.

i don't think i would boost my engine with those pistons i've got, cos they will gibe me a cr of 10,3:1, regarding the overbore i think its "safe" (with a overbored engine, nothing is really safe, cos its not tested) if you boost it low, low, low pressure.

my regrindend cams comes from a firm in sweden called ENEM AB,

hope i could help you a little

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post #57 of 124 (permalink) Old 1-19-08, 20:39
 
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thank you very much for the information.

if i had ross drop the compression down to a range of 9.5 or so just slightly above stock compression, would i be able to get away with around 4 to 6 psi?

Actually, I guess a good question would be to see what type of hp number i could expect by doing the stoker and overbore, and a set of cams?

I may not even need to go turbo if it is enough power. maybe just add a 50 shot of nos after for those really big climbs!
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post #58 of 124 (permalink) Old 2-8-08, 15:27 Thread Starter
 
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not done anything new for while, still waithing for some parts... arp head studs are supposed to arrive next week, and the mls headgasket the week after that...

stay tuned :P

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post #59 of 124 (permalink) Old 2-9-08, 3:36
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LMB did you say the ross pistons were $600 USD what else did you get with the pistons
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post #60 of 124 (permalink) Old 2-9-08, 10:14 Thread Starter
 
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$650 or somting, it came with piston rings and x-pins and pin lock's

edit:

Quote:
Originally Posted by ross pistons email
Price on pistons pins, and rings, $622.00 plus shipping.

The Norwegian Reinforcement Squad

Mazda 626 2.3i 16v DOCH 1988
Mazda 626 2.2i 4WD 1990 (soon to be turbo?)

Last edited by LMB__; 2-9-08 at 11:30.
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