Nitrogen's 323 Restore - Mazda MX-6 Forum
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 92 (permalink) Old 12-17-07, 6:05 Thread Starter
 
Nitrogen's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Age: 36
Posts: 239
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Power: 5
 
Nitrogen's 323 Restore

Hi All,

I am looking to overhaul many things on my car the coming year, I think time has come to inspect everything to see what direction i'd like to take with the car.

On my todo list we have (Not in any specific order):

- Sourcing of original engine mountings. Yes you heard right - I still haven't been able to find these or the cross member that comes with them. If anyone from the forums can help me out, please let me know

- Replacing of rear sway bar and bushings, if anyone has an aftermarket part they would like to punt now is the time

- Restoring of valve cover, it is in the same condition as the day I bought the motor, paint chips and slight gold fade.

- Uprating of coil, To something better (Any ideas? How are MSD single coils?) Would coil packs be possible? Are they of any benefit to me? How does one set these up

- I want to replace spark plug wires with something aftermarket, if any are proven (dyno) to be better than stock bougi cords.

- I want to check my cam specs. I know I have a high comp motor straight out of Japan but have no idea what cams are in it. If they are [email protected] then i'd like to buy a set of FE5A's <--- Are these the best stock cams? Does one slap two of them in or a FE3N / FE5A setup? Are there aftermarket cams which will be of greater benefit without loosing too much low down torque?

- I want to replace all suspension parts, the ride is hard and I am looking at an alternative drop, maybe 35mm max (I have 45mm on gabrial gas ryder shocks and N-Force 45mm al'cheapo springs). Maybe ride is hard because the shocks are bottoming out? The shocks I bought are stock 2.0 16v parts for this car (SA 323 hatch, think its a BG or BF? Used to know these things... now i've forgotten)

- Replace injectors for RC items, if they have stock sizing (What are our injectors btw? I remember 190cc - the stickied thread evo maintained doesn't open anymore so I cant check)

- Replace fuel pump with a Walbro item, Any ideas. Would it make a difference buying for turbo application but running it on a NA car?

- Reseat my dash... after removing it once - it hasn't stopped rattling There is nothing worse than rattles in a car.

- Remount my ECU to another location, perhaps in the engine bay. I've found I really don't need it in cabin - hardly adjust fueling on the go. Also where it is mounted is directly below a mp3 player and directly above a equaliser. I am thinking EMI at this area is pretty high with all the current and RCA cables in and out of there. It must impact the ECU whether sound is being used or not. (Must be a trickle feed of power all the time).

- Respray the car to original red without the sticker stripes on the side (as originally bought). Anyone have ideas for the bumper? How do I restore it back to original black shine? How do cars of today with black bumpers manage to stay that colour for years? Is it painted mat black?

- Replace mud flaps. Jack Russles enjoy those.

- Remount my exhaust. The guys that did it before didn't bend it perfectly - as a result everynow and then I snap a stabilising rubber.

- Run a proper earth from motor to car chassis. If anyone has done this what areas can I safely use? I've forgotten how to connect earthing kits too, as far as I can recall the battery was involved too?

- And last but not least (for now) I want to replace my spark plugs lol! NGK has recommended Iridium IX's (They would :P) part numbers BKR6EIX or BKR7EIX. Is the 6EIX the hotter or the colder plug?

What did the original high compression motor use heat range wise? I dont want to replace plugs and have the motor ping. I use 95 Ron

Cheers all, will update this thread as I get items done (I am busy so it wont be too often :P)

Last edited by Nitrogen; 12-17-07 at 6:09. Reason: Added my fuel requirements in SA (95 Ron)
Nitrogen is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 92 (permalink) Old 12-17-07, 6:40
 
fredio54's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Auckland
Posts: 7,687
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Power: 5
          
i noticed a few things :

wideband first! then think about injectors and pumps. most likely both are totally fine in totally stock form. just a clean and you should be good.

ign upgrade?? dont, unless you are having issues. the stock fe3 coil is plenty good for any NA application. total waste of time. unless you want it for "bling" if so, beware of the different dwell requirements of different coils.

this is the correct spark plug for an NA application BKR6EIX-11

i used BKR7EIX-11 for mine.

once again though, if its not missing, and the plugs arent too old, why change them?

DO NOT put your ecu in the engine bay. even if its designed for it, its a bad idea.

keep us posted with lots of nice big pics :-)
fredio54 is offline  
post #3 of 92 (permalink) Old 12-17-07, 7:57 Thread Starter
 
Nitrogen's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Age: 36
Posts: 239
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Power: 5
 
Hey Fred,

Shot for the reply. Well I went out with the intention of checking the spark plugs that were used in my car from last service (service center did the work).

They had NGK BCPR6E in it? Not sure about these plugs, heat range seems correct.

We have problems though:

Cyl #4 (I think, looking at it from the left to right, exhaust headers towards me, intake further back) - when I took out the plug, the socket itself was covered with black oil (Changed oil not even 5000km's back with fully synthetic again), the plug was full of oil - It was a mess. I had to get alot of carlton to remove it all before putting the plug back.

Cyl #3, the rubber from the socket is stuck on the plug... It happened because when I tried to turn to loosen it - it was just too tight and the rubber just came right off when I took the socket out. Not only this, but as I tried loosening it (ANTICLOCKWISE) I heard a snap, crack and I hung my head.

Did I just do what I think I did? Heli coil time? Or did I break part of the plug itself? I can't see damage to the plug nor can I get it out.

Dammit.

FE out of order until I can get this sorted.
Nitrogen is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 92 (permalink) Old 12-17-07, 9:35
 
fredio54's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Auckland
Posts: 7,687
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Power: 5
          
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nitrogen View Post
They had NGK BCPR6E in it? Not sure about these plugs, heat range seems correct.
i think those are fine for now :-)

Quote:
Cyl #4 (I think, looking at it from the left to right, exhaust headers towards me, intake further back) - when I took out the plug, the socket itself was covered with black oil (Changed oil not even 5000km's back with fully synthetic again), the plug was full of oil - It was a mess. I had to get alot of carlton to remove it all before putting the plug back.
leaking valve covers are pretty common among all mazda motors. not the best design imo. in the case of the dohc engines you end up with a puddle of oil around the plugs. pays to wash/mop it out with a solvent and rag if you can get to it enough before pulling the plug or the oil (and any harmfull solids that found there way in) go into the cylinder.

Quote:
Cyl #3, the rubber from the socket is stuck on the plug... It happened because when I tried to turn to loosen it - it was just too tight and the rubber just came right off when I took the socket out. Not only this, but as I tried loosening it (ANTICLOCKWISE) I heard a snap, crack and I hung my head.
if you mean the rubber coming out of the ign lead and staying behind, this is common too esp when they are soaked in oil. i also had this, but because i was using new leads i just picked at it with a pick (funnily enough) until it came off and then fished out the ripped up shreds of it.

if you mean the rubber from the spark socket? hmm

i tend to use one without the rubber in it, and a strong telescopic magnet to lift the plug because i dont trust them to not drop the plug and end up with porcelain in the cylinder and a dead plug.

Quote:
Did I just do what I think I did? Heli coil time? Or did I break part of the plug itself? I can't see damage to the plug nor can I get it out.
hard to know are you using a half inch power bar so you have some control and feel? making the job easier with a bigger tool gives you more finesse. i doubt that you stripped the thread trying to undo it. that usually happens when monkeys cross thread them on the way in or try to overtighten them. the plug is one piece from thread to hex, could it have been an extension or the ratchet slipping a little or something?

good luck.

fred.
fredio54 is offline  
post #5 of 92 (permalink) Old 12-17-07, 17:26 Thread Starter
 
Nitrogen's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Age: 36
Posts: 239
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Power: 5
 
Well guys, thanks to a mate of mine coming over to lend a helping hand the plug eventually came out.

I had managed to crack the think whilst trying to get it out. Why the hell people tighten them so much to begin with is beyond my understanding. When I heard the crack I was thinking head being stripped. As you can see in one of the pics, there is a bit of plastic that was broken.

I was worried that this would fall into the cylinder and this is where my mate came up with the old long screwdriver and some putty on one end trick... hey it worked and saved me a whole lot of trouble

Will go and get new plugs the weekend. Also the socket I was using is getting replaced... the rubber inside is far too loose, it comes out with the least of effort meaning it would always get stuck on the plug.

1) The plug that was drenched in oil


2) The plug that gave me the most shhhhhh...


3) The damage. This kept me busy for a while.


Ciao
Nitrogen is offline  
post #6 of 92 (permalink) Old 12-17-07, 19:20
 
fredio54's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Auckland
Posts: 7,687
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Power: 5
          
get yourself a good magnet on a stick and throw the rubber thing away! they are average at the best of times.

good that you got it all sorted.

would pay you to sort out that gasket at some stage so shes not flooded again next time you open it up.

as for retightening plugs, if they are new you should do this :

turn by hand until it comes up firm
put on a 3/8 ratchet or bar and turn steadily until it comes tight. that is the point when the crush washer has collapsed and it is at the correct torque then.

if its a preloved plug, you need to use a torque wrench to reinstall it.

get yourself some antisieze paste to put on the threads for reinsertion. makes life soooo much easier.

fred.
fredio54 is offline  
post #7 of 92 (permalink) Old 12-18-07, 4:25 Thread Starter
 
Nitrogen's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Age: 36
Posts: 239
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Power: 5
 
Update:
--------

Injectors:

====
Universal 400cc @ 3bar fuel injector
Uses standard Bosch fuel injector plugs, can be used to replace most standard length bosch fuel injectors.
Length: 70mm (From top to bottom sealing point)
====

- Can this be used on a stock FE? How much would I need to adjust pulse rate to get it to give fueling like stock injector at low duty cycle?

Fuel Pump:
====

15mm Fuel inlet, 10 mm banjo fitting.

Supplies 180 Liter fuel per hour @ 6 Bar
====

Will this work on stock fuel line of about 8mm? What work will be involved connecting this to smaller lines?

Cheers
Nitrogen is offline  
post #8 of 92 (permalink) Old 12-18-07, 5:10
 
fredio54's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Auckland
Posts: 7,687
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Power: 5
          
the injectors are too big for NA and too small for turbo. esp if you use a gt35r, you'll need a set of 650 - 800cc jobs for that.

same deal with the pump, too big now and too small later.

also, the stock injectors are jecs and denso, not bosch, i doubt they will fit without mods. fe3 injectors are different to other denso jobs anyway, so you have to mod the rails to use rx7 ones or anything really.

the lines will be fine. its the return line that needs to be big enough to avoid pressure fluxuating...

fred.
fredio54 is offline  
post #9 of 92 (permalink) Old 12-18-07, 6:06 Thread Starter
 
Nitrogen's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Age: 36
Posts: 239
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Power: 5
 
When you say too big now (the fuel pump) do you mean that it can't be used at all? I was thinking maybe a Walbro 255 which is more than enough for both NA and Turbo?

Anyone have links to the Jecs / Denso injectors? When you say they are different to other Denso's do you mean that even purchasing these i'll need to mod them?

It sucks being in the middle of NA and Boost.
Nitrogen is offline  
post #10 of 92 (permalink) Old 12-18-07, 9:29
 
fredio54's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Auckland
Posts: 7,687
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Power: 5
          
the fe3 injectors rail end is a different diameter, and the lengths of the bushings/seals are different too. you could use such a pump, but, it wouldnt be enough for a decent turbo setup and you dont need it now. you can definitely upgrade your fuel system before boosting, i fully recommend incremental tuning and adjustment for each change to verify it works right.
fredio54 is offline  
post #11 of 92 (permalink) Old 12-18-07, 9:35
 
fredio54's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Auckland
Posts: 7,687
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Power: 5
          
fredio54 is offline  
post #12 of 92 (permalink) Old 12-19-07, 8:10 Thread Starter
 
Nitrogen's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Age: 36
Posts: 239
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Power: 5
 
Thanks for that fred gives me an idea of what I could possible consider later.

While restoring my pride and joy i'd also like to tackle the squeeking noise I get when starting the car. It eventually goes away meaning it has to do with lubrication.

I have isolated the sound to be coming from the cam area. The cover is off because the engine mount that side kept knocking into in on sharp turns to the left ( THIS is why i need mountings - ANYONE... PLEASE )

So now that it has been off for a year or so I am thinking dirt and muck has got down there? How can I fix this noise? Only items I can see are the cam gears... everything else is further down and hidden to visuals.
Nitrogen is offline  
post #13 of 92 (permalink) Old 12-19-07, 12:38
 
fredio54's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Auckland
Posts: 7,687
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Power: 5
          
just sounds like dry hard belts to me. get some crc beltgrip or similar and spary it on the accessory belts (never the cam belt) and see if the noise stops straight away. that stuff wears off after a little while, but is a quick fix. if it helps, your belts are hard and old. you live in a hot place, that cant help rubber last longer...
fredio54 is offline  
post #14 of 92 (permalink) Old 12-21-07, 2:22 Thread Starter
 
Nitrogen's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Age: 36
Posts: 239
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Power: 5
 
Thanks mate, will check it out anyway. It is IN the cam area... where the silver pulley is (below two cam gears).

I need to know part # for FE-DOHC headgasket for my car. Want to replace this weekend.

Also need to know tq specs on the bolts when I put it back on. Do I have to use a tq wrench?

Ciao
Nitrogen is offline  
post #15 of 92 (permalink) Old 12-21-07, 3:51
 
fredio54's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Auckland
Posts: 7,687
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Power: 5
          
is your headgasket blown?

do you mean the cam cover gasket?

if your headgasket isnt blown, why change it? if you are changing it you should get the head surfaced and possibly the block too if you care a lot, either way is somewhere between a minor-major hassle and a complete rebuild.

if you dont use a torque wrench it will leak (which ever type you mean!)

you have to use one for the HG, but you can guess the cam cover...

fred.
fredio54 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply

User Tag List

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Permissions  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome