Stuffing a F2T in a 323 - Page 3 - Mazda MX-6 Forum
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post #31 of 40 (permalink) Old 4-19-13, 20:14
 
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in all honesty pat^ larken is correct. the tie rod mount point is up a noticeable bit compared next to a BG unit.

im trying to get BA astina/323F front assemblies to cure the same problem.
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post #32 of 40 (permalink) Old 4-20-13, 10:23
 
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I agree they arent perfect. But the 93+'s are even that much worse. And scott didnt have any of the bump steer issues hes experiencing while driving. So that obviously doesnt explain that. Thats why i asked if he was using the 93+ stuff.

~Patrick~

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post #33 of 40 (permalink) Old 4-20-13, 10:24
 
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Keep in mind the center line on the 93+ hub's is like an inch off compared to the 88-92 hubs. Which could make a pretty big difference in steering and handling.

~Patrick~

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post #34 of 40 (permalink) Old 4-20-13, 19:39 Thread Starter

 
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The hubs (complete w/struts) are off a 1990. I had to raise the rack about an inch to correct it. On the other thread i show how i shortened the strut too.
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post #35 of 40 (permalink) Old 4-22-13, 23:51
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I'm about to do this 5lug swap on my 95 Escort. When measuring everything, I noticed the tie rod would be lifted considerably... so I purchased a set of .751" OD bushings with the correct taper for the tie rods on the ID, and plan to drill the spindles out to .750" and press the bushings in upside down, in order to flip the tie rod upside down, and lower it, hopefully to a point where it is parallel to the LCA... If it lowers it too far, a ball joint relocation/correction is in order, to lower the LCA. This should correct roll-center geometry on lowered cars, and correct the bumpsteer issues of all this mis-match mumbo jumbo.

I'll post my results.
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post #36 of 40 (permalink) Old 7-10-14, 19:31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LARKEN View Post
I have my 323 F2T all done and running. Ive taken it to the track but there are serious handling problems. She's a handful to hang onto !

I think i found the problem though. I'm using the full 5 bolt MX6 struts and hubs and i now see that the wheels actually turn out (left and right) when you hit a bump. Seems the steering rods from the rack arn't parallel with the lower A arm. The steering arm is higher than on the 4bolt 323 knuckle.

Jesiotrot, have do you have this problem ? How does your handle.

Im going to have to cut the steering arm and weld it lower.
Hi,

this is a great read and im doing the same thing with my 323 and i was wondering where you got the wiring diargrams from for the F2T ecu????
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post #37 of 40 (permalink) Old 7-10-14, 20:05
 
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the mx6 spindles ride like shit plain & simple. Your best option would be to use astina BHA spindles. or the LX protege spindles (90-94) with a modified BJ 5 lug unit (that'll match the axle spline on the f2t shaft)
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post #38 of 40 (permalink) Old 7-11-14, 14:38 Thread Starter

 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madmat1987 View Post
Hi,

this is a great read and im doing the same thing with my 323 and i was wondering where you got the wiring diargrams from for the F2T ecu????
I'm running Megasquirt on it. There is a bigger thread on my build in the MX6 1G forum.
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post #39 of 40 (permalink) Old 12-16-14, 10:21
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Theres a BF323 in South Africa running around with a F2T





https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wLIX1BiSqgU
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post #40 of 40 (permalink) Old 12-22-14, 13:22
 
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Garage
I think what you're trying to do is admirable, but sounds like so much work. However, if it were me, I would try fitting an F2T in a B2200. I think it would be way easier. To each hisi own.

You also might get a hold of a guy on the ClubProtege.com - By The Community, For The Community who might still have a 323 SOHC 1.6L motor I cuswtom turboed but never ran. I bartered with him to do work on my 323 GT and gave him the motor. I think it might still be in his shed sitting around. That would be easier to put into your 323. I also think another friend might have a spare 323 GT motor (might need rebuilding) in Vancouver, WA.
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