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  Topic Review (Newest First)
1-13-11 12:23
GuiltySoul nice job! rare to see a 323 in white, and that oil cooler is small man, but it gets the job done, good luck with the build
9-29-10 1:35
Crazy Drummer69
New heart

So I acquired a new forged BPD from an Escort GT(-R). I'll salvage what I can for the GTR build (motor, flywheel, ECU, fuel rail, intake mani, ebc, resistor pack, sensors & gauges, remote oil cooler) and sell the rest to help fund this project.

The new heart, needs a Mazda cover, and a Mazdaspeed cap (the original one flew off the car after I killed my buddy's freshly $18k built STI, close call!)

New I/C arrived, pretty good steal for $100 shipped. 24" x 12" x 3" aluminum core with 2.5" end tanks.

Test fit of one of my couplings, Fits properly, I'll have tighten those t-bolt clamps a lot to handle the amount of boost that'll be running through...

Some new spark plugs and a new gapping tool.

Most of my time has been spent working and stripping both cars. School's starting up and I'm out of a job so there's going to be a small hiccup in parts acquisition, but the project shall always move forward
9-29-10 1:34
Crazy Drummer69
More parts...

Haven't had time to work on the car, been preoccupied with work and my girl, so here's some pics of a few parts and minor progress. I did make some progress elsewhere on the car but that part is still under wraps until I have something substantial to show



A clearer shot of the fins

New heat wrap, took the mesh off of the grille (screws + glued edges)
9-29-10 1:33
Crazy Drummer69
General stripping progress

Start of the day...

And now for some pictures of the rear underbody...

Rear, left

Rear, right

Rearer, right

I FINALLY got that passenger seat out, I've only been trying for a whole year, effing stripped nut >.<

Didn't get a chance to snap other pictures, but now the only wiring left on the car are the looms running through the fenders and the dash/HVAC loom. Also removed the shifter assembly, pedal assembly, most of the brake/clutch systems, and bought some new parts--but you'll just have to wait for pics of their arrivals! Back to work for another ten days... until then, the GTR sleeps.
9-29-10 1:33
Crazy Drummer69
Fuel System

Got both fuel assemblies out too, fuel tank will come out soon, along with the filler assembly, and all of the fuel lines. The plan is to replace the sender pump with the Walbro from the built Escort GTR I'm buying, and the main pump will be a 300LPH modified Denso pump (Denso Fuel Pump - 300LPH 1020 Toyota Supra Denso Fuel Pumps). I think the extra fuel from the return line will help compensate the Denso's increased fuel draw rate.

Transfer pump on the left, lack of main fuel pump on the right (donated it to my 323GT/Millennium Falcon project)

Got the propshaft off, all of the exhaust (3", need to redo it in stainless and add more joints), and a few rock guards early in the day.

Some of the support bracket for the fuel filler lines are rusted through, I'll need to source new ones.

Saddleback fuel tank

The transfer pump section doesn't have a baffle like the main pump side

There's like a bucket on this side to keep fuel trapped and prevent fuel starvation.

Dirty, dirty fuel. No wonder my filter was black when I replaced it last year. Those japs got dirty fuel, period.

Loosened more of the front suspension, going to have to get creative with the front axles again though, *le sigh*
9-29-10 1:30
Crazy Drummer69
Rear subframe

Yay, the rear sub frame is out! The four bushings underneath the sub frame were crushed and rusted to hell, would prefer to find some aftermarket replacements but I have a feeling that'll prove difficult...

Removed the trailing arms and front lateral links

It's naked!

The rear brake lines didn't make the "cut"

Both axle nuts are seized, and the inner bolts securing the lateral arms are also seized >.<

Anybody need a viscous LSD rear diff?

Also selling these rear struts. The rubber boot is failing, so is the perch, but not bad to the point where they can't easily be restored. The struts themselves aren't leaking and the springs are still stiff.

9-29-10 1:30
Crazy Drummer69
More stripping... of the car ;)

Had some friends help me out, made a lot of progress today. Dropped the rear sub frame, got 3/4 of the propshaft hoop nuts removed, removed the exhaust, isolated the rear differential, disassembled most of the rear sub frame (both axle nuts and both interior lateral link bolts refused to come apart, all brake line fittings seized), removed the last interior window, and FINALLY got the rear bumper + lip off the car.

Started the day off properly...

Rear bumper, rear sway bar, and rear bumper lip.

A dent to fill with body filler.

Another dent, though minor, needing my attention.

Bent bolts

The lower bushing & washer were missing when I removed the bar.

A bit of a scrape...

9-29-10 1:27
Crazy Drummer69
Mechanical progress

Worked on the rear subframe the other day and got everything on the right rear loose except the axle bolt, which refuses to come off. Anyways... progress pics, and discoveries about the true condition of the car...

After completely bending one snipe, I used the pipe for my jack and even that one started bending! You can see some of the grinding I also had to do when the tip of a drill bit got lodged trying to pry up the axle nut crush point.

You can see the ice scrappers that are installed on rear GTR hubs, above/left of the top strut bolt.


Rear left, notice anything missing from the sway bar linkage?
9-29-10 1:26
Crazy Drummer69

Some parts started arriving ^.^

Vacuum lines

Use 70% isopropyl alchohol to clean the lines when they get dirty

T-bolt clamps to secure the 4" couplings to both 4" turbo inlets

4-ply New black 2.5" intercooler piping

I got lucky, they're a decent thickness, you never know with those eBay kits...

Red couplings + t-bolt clamps

Knicked a roll of heat wrap from work, I grabbed another one clean & new in plastic but forgot to bring it home. I'll probably sell this one for $20

Some more parts arrived
HLA - Hydraulic Lash Adjusters

Wheel arches (stock on the GT-R models)
RHD passenger side wheel arches, but I need the ones for the driver side! A small mixup in the term "driver's side" due to RHD, no biggie, CorkSport has the other halves sitting on a desk to exchange

Hood vents (stock on the GT-R models)

JDM front grill badge - finishing piece, the last item that'll only go on once the entire car is completely finished.

I will be ordering a replica bumper from Corksport when it comes time to do body work. I'll fiberglass a lip to the bottom of it and stick some Hella 500s I ordered last year and have sitting in a box for the fog lights. Here's what the stock GT-R is supposed to look like:

Definitely planning to update the styling, projector HID conversion, clear corners, fab a front lip, Speedline 2020 wheels, Hella 500 driving lights

More parts on the way, but mainly I'm saving to buy the Escort GTR now.
9-29-10 1:25
Crazy Drummer69
Fuel system diagram

1. Stock GTR saddleback fuel tank. Inspect/repair trouble spots, possibly line with a bladder if required by local associations' rules.
2. Dual 255LPH Walbro fuel pumps on either side of the hump in the fuel tank (1), each with 30 micron filters, each with their own 12V 20A relays, each with a -6AN line to the surge tank (4).
3. Dual -6AN SS braided fuel lines from the in-tank pumps to the surge tank
4. Tall, cylindrical surge tank keeps a steady supply of fuel at the bottom during braking, cornering, and acceleration. The idea is that the engine is sucking up so much fuel, that a significant amount of body roll would limit or starve the fuel pumps (2) of fuel momentarily, but enough to lean out the mixture in the engine and possibly burn valves/pistons. A surge tank keeps a steady pool of fuel available.
5. High pressure -10AN SS braided hoses will carry fuel to the in-line fuel pump (6), from (6) to the in-line fuel filter (7), and from (7) to the fuel rail (8).
6. The in-line pump must be able to supply the total amount of fuel needed by the injectors (9) at the appropriate pressure. For this build, the combined pressure of the dual Walbro pumps (2) will keep the surge tank (4) full in nearly all situations and help the in-line fuel pump (6) run more efficiently. I chose the SX Performance 80203 pump for its comparable performance to the Bosche 044 in-line pump and for its larger -10AN input/output connectors. It'll have its own 12V, 25A relay.
7. 60 micron in-line fuel filter is meant to withstand the high pressure fuel, an extra line of protection to prevent the injectors (9) from getting clogged and running a lean mixture, potentially leading to serious engine damage.
8. -10AN fuel rail, big enough to accomodate the high pressure and enough internal space to ensure all four injectors (9) get enough fuel.
9. 4 x 1600CC low-Z injectors are good for ~850HP at 85% duty cycle.
10. Adjustable fuel pressure regulator is located after the injectors (9) to ensure that all injectors (9) receive enough fuel. If you put the FPR before the injectors, it can lag behind the changing manifold pressure and cause the injectors to undersupply fuel to the engine, causing a lean situation and potential serious engine damage.
11. -10AN fuel lines, large enough to carry the high pressure fuel back to the surge tank (4) during low engine stress situations (idling, highway cruising, etc)
12. A check valve is used in case the pressure inside the surge tank (4) is higher than the pressure of the fuel in the return line (11). A second check valve is used to prevent unfiltered fuel from leaving the gas tank (1) and entering the surge tank (4).
13. See (4). Fuel is returned to the top of the surge tank (4), where fuel supply is most important.
14. High pressure -10AN braided SS hose relieves any unnecessary fuel & pressure from the surge tank (4)
9-29-10 1:25
Crazy Drummer69
Custom dash mounted gauge cluster

To keep tabs on the engine vitals, I'm building a 5 gauge cluster to be molded into the dash to appear as one big piece. I will make a mold of the wooden original for reproduction in either fiberglass or carbon fiber. I will be monitoring A/F (wideband), oil pressure, boost (one for post GT35/40 pre GT28 pressure, and one for manifold pressure), and I'm undecided on what the fifth will be (probably pyrometer)

The cluster will go here, facing the driver to the right (RHD) where the bowl-shaped divet is on the dash. I will be cutting five holes for wires and gauge cables/wires/hoses

The gauge faces need support while the glue dries, not very clear right now, more pics to come soon!

Unfortunately two of the gauge faces didn't glue properly and are a bit slanted, so I will cut the glue and reposition them.

You can see that #1 and #4 have some minor flaws.

I sanded the excess glue from the front of the cluster and glued on one of two or three final pieces that are part of the structural integrity.

Support in the rear to hold the mounts upright

This is where the gauge cluster will sit. Part of the dash will need to be cut so that the base of my cluster will fit and be level.

Here you can see see the half an inch gap in order to make the cluster level.

All of the dash between the boost gauge and the edge of the platform needs to be cut out.

The dash where the top-left corner of the edge of the platform sits also needs to be cut out.

And lastly, a few POV shots.

I'm very pleased with this idea thus far. The gauges are all easily readable yet they barely obscure my, or the passenger's, field of view.
9-29-10 1:23
Crazy Drummer69
Initial ownership of the car

I bought the car after being mechanically repaired from a front-end collision. What you see is how the car was when I bought it.

The only real problem area with a couple of spots of rust, a knick in the paint above the wheel, and a dent in the panel.

JDM grill needs paint and a new badge

The intake has since been replaced with a better breathing cone type

VJ23, new rad core and slim fan

J-Spec has a limiter at 180km/h. Apparently disabling that is as easy as removing the instrument cluster and removing a single screw.

9-29-10 1:23
Crazy Drummer69
Evolution of my GTR; Ghostbuster

So after my fair share of disappointments with a lemon of a GTR, and some silly rice ideas, the car has long since taken a new direction. Forged BP, compound turbo setup (GT2871r & GT35/40), Toyota ST185 Celica GT4 driveline, 10pt cage, new bushings everywhere, coilovers, MS3 standalone, the list goes on. The goal: 450AWHP and a chance to learn what every nut on this car does.

Current status: stripping the dash + front suspension, to be resumed August 14.

Engine: swapped from this car which I will pick up at the end of the month ($500 deposit already paid): FS: Fully Built Turbo Escort GT-R - Club Protege.
H-beam rods, 9.1:1 ceramic coated pistons, MegaSquirt 3 fuel+spark+boost management, turbo camshafts, adjustable cam gears (buying soon), ported & polished head & manifolds, 1600cc low-Z injectors, 24x12x3 FMIC with 2.5" inlets, 3" exhaust, dual 44mm wastegates, dual BOVs (SSQV and type RS), GATES racing belts

Driveline: ST185 Celica GT4 complete driveline, Darryl's conversion kit, ST205 rear LSD, braided SS clutch lines, custom GTR clutch + PP with Toyota spline

Suspension: K-Sport GT Pro Damper Coilovers, 10pt rally cage, sandblast and paint black all reused suspension parts, Superpro "complete" GT-R bushing kit, Mazda MX-3 rear tie bars, front fender frog braces

Brakes: Mazda Millenia/MPV front calipers + rotors (4mm thicker, 2pot front calipers), 100% new hard lines connecting to braided SS hoses, dual master cylinders

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