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Bill, still no go on the RPMs. I think I might try to completely replicate your setup. Just solder the connections to read VR sensor instead of Hall. Grrrr! What do you charge?! Hehe!

'02 Ford Mustang- [Procharged @ 8psi][Flowmasters][5-speed][Limo Tint]
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Mmmm. When I was viewing the dyno video, this poped up...
YouTube - mazda mx3 dyno run 500+hp
Maxed out a 500 HP Dyno...
How do these people get the stock tranny to hold that kind of power when so many people are busting them at 350 HP??
If I could find a tranny that would hold 500 HP, I'd start building up my KL engine.

Jace, the ticking is just the HLA (lifters). Usually you can get that to go away with a good engine flush. The grinding squeking noise I'd have to hear, but very well could be your idler bearings if you already know they are bad.
Oil leaks... the most common places are the Oil sending unit ($8.0 at Autozone) the Oil cooler O-ring ($5.00) at the dealer, and VCG (closer to $80 for both gaskets, and don't get the cheap ebay ones). That is if it truely is oil. Could also be PS fluid.
I had my 93's idler bearing all replaced locally by a bearing shop for about $80. That was taking the idlers to them and having them press them out and new ones back in. You can also find a complete set on ebay for pretty cheap, around $100. It sure makes a diffrence in engine noise.

Bill, 2003 3.5 SE Altima, Black with black leather, headers, full SS exhaust, lowering springs, adjustable shocks / struts, SCAFII, 20" wheels, SER Tail lights, Dual Halos around headlights, HID headlights and driving lights, Maxima Helical LSD.
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Originally Posted by ExtremeJDK View Post
Bill, still no go on the RPMs. I think I might try to completely replicate your setup. Just solder the connections to read VR sensor instead of Hall. Grrrr! What do you charge?! Hehe!
I won't charge you anything to just solder the couple connections.... It'll take me longer to go to the garage and get the soldering iron than to solder up the connections. Plus, next time your up, we can go over my connections completely. I know my wire colors and locations are diffrent than yours, but with both maps, we can figure it out. I'm free this weekend, no kids, and no family plans.

Bill, 2003 3.5 SE Altima, Black with black leather, headers, full SS exhaust, lowering springs, adjustable shocks / struts, SCAFII, 20" wheels, SER Tail lights, Dual Halos around headlights, HID headlights and driving lights, Maxima Helical LSD.
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Originally Posted by wpendl1 View Post

Jace, the ticking is just the HLA (lifters). Usually you can get that to go away with a good engine flush. The grinding squeking noise I'd have to hear, but very well could be your idler bearings if you already know they are bad.
Oil leaks... the most common places are the Oil sending unit ($8.0 at Autozone) the Oil cooler O-ring ($5.00) at the dealer, and VCG (closer to $80 for both gaskets, and don't get the cheap ebay ones). That is if it truely is oil. Could also be PS fluid.
I had my 93's idler bearing all replaced locally by a bearing shop for about $80. That was taking the idlers to them and having them press them out and new ones back in. You can also find a complete set on ebay for pretty cheap, around $100. It sure makes a diffrence in engine noise.
Thanks for the info Bill, so by engine flush do you mean running ATF through it for like 5 minutes and draining it? Ya i think the oil leak is the O-ring i checked the sending unit last summer and it wasnt leaking, but it could be the valve cover gaskets. Thanks for the info on the bearings to, are the bearings difficult to get out seeing as where you only have a couple inches between the wheel well and the engine to work with.

Jace

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Thanks for the info Bill, so by engine flush do you mean running ATF through it for like 5 minutes and draining it? Ya i think the oil leak is the O-ring i checked the sending unit last summer and it wasnt leaking, but it could be the valve cover gaskets. Thanks for the info on the bearings to, are the bearings difficult to get out seeing as where you only have a couple inches between the wheel well and the engine to work with.

Jace
kerosene...not atf...run slightly thicker oil mixed half and half with kerosene...run for 5-10min, then change oil again and filter
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The stock trannys are breaking at 350 cause people abuse them, launching, shifting hard etc., granted at 500 hp you cannot expect everything to last more than 10k miles but if your easy on them they will live for short bursts, Back in the day, fuck im getting old, back in the day when I was drag racing during the course of 1 summer I think I broke 7 1st gen turbo trannys, after the first three I quit driving hard, ie 4th gear boost burnouts down I215 and I80, instead I started shifting normally and letting the turbo come into boost without trying to carry boost over from the previous gear by shifting really fast and barely bumping the clutch between gears, as I said the first 4 or so were because of the way I was driving, mostly shift forks and internal goodies
The latter 3 trannies it was mostly diff pins that would shear and spider gears shattering just from boost, I believe the VF22 had a lot to do with the last 3 trannies, when I was pushing higher boost from the VF22 it got really violent, ie came into boost instantly at 3000-3500rpm, about 5-700rpm from spooling to oh shit 16psi tachs racing towards redline shit i missed it shit it went to 7000 shit wheres the rev limiter shit parked cars shit torque steer kind of violent onslought of boost, I twisted the occasional stub shaft in the knuckle but that only happened twice, both AZ axles, All of the trannies that I broke the diff pin in were scrap, when the spider gears come out they like to wedge themselves between the ring gear and case and break the cases apart, one an auto N/A that we were rallying off road actually broke the whole back 8" of the case clean off and atf rained down from under neath putting a damper in our rallying fun

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I usually go a little more conservative on the Keroseen, 3 quarts oil, to 1.5 quarts Keeroseen. Warm the engine up for a few minutes, drain 1.5 quarts or so out the drain pan, fill with 1.5 quarts Kersoseen, run the engine at idle for up to 5 minutes. Make sure you don't rev the engine at all. Drain fully, fill with new cheap oil, run for another 5 minutes or so, drian again, replace oil filter and fill again. I personally will change the oil and filter again after a couple weeks, but most people don't.
The bearings are no harder to get to than changing the timming belt. The AC and PS tentioners just unbolt, but the timming belt idlers require the TB to come off. The TB tentioner idler is also a allen style bolt.
Zach, I know abuse is the cuase of most tranny failures, but seriously, with 500 hp, who's going to drive the car nicely.... That would be a 50% gain in hp for me! I'm not going to start a project by stocking up on tranny's. Plus the time it take to swap a tranny with the turbo setup jumps from 2 hours to probably 3.5 hours, with added turbo gaskets to replace.

Bill, 2003 3.5 SE Altima, Black with black leather, headers, full SS exhaust, lowering springs, adjustable shocks / struts, SCAFII, 20" wheels, SER Tail lights, Dual Halos around headlights, HID headlights and driving lights, Maxima Helical LSD.
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Bill, I had some of the guys on Probetalk like shaodome and MAtt Cramer (DIYAutotune) look at pics of my MS unit and they said it looks like there are a few circuits missing from what they commonly install.
Which MS Pin-Out Diagram to Use? - ProbeTalk.com Forums

Before I send it off to Shaodome, I'd like to try and finish it up here. Do you think it would be very hard to do? Malia has to work Saturday so if you had time like around 10am I could come up?

'02 Ford Mustang- [Procharged @ 8psi][Flowmasters][5-speed][Limo Tint]

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Quote:
Originally Posted by wpendl1 View Post
If I could find a tranny that would hold 500 HP, I'd start building up my KL engine.
Well, there is a guy on ProbeTalk adapting a Pontiac G6 transmission to the KL. HERE.

6-speed, OEM 252HP (but supposedly WAY beefier than ours).

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Nice... 6 speed even. Well, no development yet, he's still trying to fit a square peg into a round hole. To throw another couple grand at my mx6 just isn't apealing to me right now. If I threw a couple grand at my Altima, I could have 500hp in a nice plush heated leather seat dailey driver with 4 doors. You know how I know I'm getting old? I no longer want to put up with older cars that are noisy, and lack luxery. You'd never catch me driving my old 68 beetle in the middle of winter or summer, unless it was between that and walking. That is why I was willing to sell my mx6. It was nice in it's day, but now it's just a toy.
It's still up for sale if anyone is interested by the way. $4K.

Bill, 2003 3.5 SE Altima, Black with black leather, headers, full SS exhaust, lowering springs, adjustable shocks / struts, SCAFII, 20" wheels, SER Tail lights, Dual Halos around headlights, HID headlights and driving lights, Maxima Helical LSD.
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WOOT WOOT just paid off my car today, it feels good knowing its 100% mine.

Jace

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Jace, the Addco RSB is a good bit of overkill. It could tend to make the car a bit prone to snap oversteer. I run the AWR 19mm unit that comes with adjustable endlinks and it is plenty.

But, if you really want to upgrade your suspention, I would suggest saving your money for a good shock/spring combo.

Ryan

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Quote:
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Jace, the Addco RSB is a good bit of overkill. It could tend to make the car a bit prone to snap oversteer. I run the AWR 19mm unit that comes with adjustable endlinks and it is plenty.

But, if you really want to upgrade your suspention, I would suggest saving your money for a good shock/spring combo.

Ryan
Alright thanks Ryan i will go with the AWR then. Ya 2 years ago i put the Eibach's in with some new but stock struts. I love my springs but i want some Tockico Struts. What do you think?

Jace

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Absolutely, the Tokico/Eibach combo is definitely a good one. Spend the extra money for the Illuminas, IMO well worth it, and will take a beating for a long time.

Another engine flushing option, Seafoam. Closest thing to automotive snake oil I've ever used.

Ryan

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryan View Post
Absolutely, the Tokico/Eibach combo is definitely a good one. Spend the extra money for the Illuminas, IMO well worth it, and will take a beating for a long time.

Another engine flushing option, Seafoam. Closest thing to automotive snake oil I've ever used.

Ryan
Ok cool ya i will try to get those this summer along with the AWR.

Hey does anyone know if you can get the oil cooler O-ring on the net anywhere?

Jace

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