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post #751 of 12501 (permalink) Old 10-9-05, 20:06
 
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Yeah, from everything I've read up the HotShots are supposed to net more around the mid becuase of the short runners on primaries, and pacesetters net more up top because us "scavenging" at high RPM's with the long runners. Plus, I ported my headers quite a bit before I installed them. But .. your's I'm sure sound ALOT better! I should have had you rev your motor for me today. If you doubt the gains from them .. just look at the race results from today .. I took 4th in "PAX" today which was my best race day EVER!!! Technically I am cheating though by having those headers on, but really didn't expect to do so well ... so I guess my best day of racing ever is nothing but a big lie! GS (Stock class for the MX6) was HUGE today ... 25% of the 60 some partipants consisted of GS. It was an extremely tight race. To give you an idea, me and the 4 people all below me were all within 1.3 seconds!! That's like a matter of braking a millisecond earlier. Yesterday up at Deer Valley was just a terrible day of my brakes failing and vacuum hoses pinching. Anyhow ... I need new brakes. Ryan, I love how Kitty slams me into the dash everytime!

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post #752 of 12501 (permalink) Old 10-10-05, 10:10
 
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I'll take the mid gain anyday. I love just riding along at 3k and just laying into it. The freeway is fun. 65 to 85 is pretty quick. I think that i can accelerate faster in 4th than droping down to 3rd...
The OBX headers I got were welded on the inside of each runner at the flange then ground down to give a smooth flow transition. I was very impressed with the quality. The price wasnt as nice as yours but... hey. Hopefully I'll get that muffler on it pretty soon.

Bill, 2003 3.5 SE Altima, Black with black leather, headers, full SS exhaust, lowering springs, adjustable shocks / struts, SCAFII, 20" wheels, SER Tail lights, Dual Halos around headlights, HID headlights and driving lights, Maxima Helical LSD.
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post #753 of 12501 (permalink) Old 10-10-05, 16:13
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He he...Somebody's got a HotShot cold air Intake now...

It's kinda fun...Small gains across the power band, but most signifigantly up high in the RPM's, above 6500...That's where the biggest difference seems to be, the motor doesn't fall off nearly as fast as it did before...

And no, it isn't stock legal, and yes it will be back to stock for the next event

Oh, and it gives the car a growlier sound...I rather like it

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post #754 of 12501 (permalink) Old 10-10-05, 17:46
 
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Ryan, here is a link to some info on that new TEIN Coil Over setup they developed for the Probe/MX6 I was telling you about. And yes, it has a pillow ball mount to! The dude tested it with -1.5 degrees Camber on both L and R .... with his Camber plates set at 0 .. so you could easily bust out a bit more.

Info: http://forums.probetalk.com/showthread.php?t=1701171582
Road Test: http://forums.probetalk.com/showthread.php?t=1701174438
Looks like they're gonna run somewhere about $1000 Retail ... bulk buy a bit cheaper. available in December. I'm planning on these for STS next year, much better than that K-Sport.

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post #755 of 12501 (permalink) Old 10-11-05, 13:12
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Wow...If they can be had bulk buy yfor $800...Wow...that's freaking awesome...I'm already in!!!

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post #756 of 12501 (permalink) Old 10-11-05, 16:33
 
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Dude! I need your guys help. The business I bought the Ze from was getting it ready to ship out to me yesterday and discovered a hairline crack in the block. they have offered to refund my money and pay for the cold air intake and ecu shipping but I need an engine so....I was thinking if I get the engine I can just use my old block and swap all the parts over. Seems to be a lot of work but worth it in the end. What do yall think? And how much should I give him for the engine now that its got a crack? I only paid around 550 for it so would having him pay for shipping be a fair deal or should i ask for more back?
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post #757 of 12501 (permalink) Old 10-11-05, 23:17
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I'd ask for all my money back, if the block is cracked...well...How did that happen? Was it from the accident or from overheating? In either case it would make me wonder what if any damage was done to the heads that you may or may not be able to detect.

And even if you were to do the head swap, you'll still have a lower compression motor, have to have the heads machined flat, and checked, and pay for new head gaskets, IIRC $50 each, not to mention all new gaskets elsewhere. You'll spend close to $300 just putting the heads on...

Go to www.noyanusa.com I got my KLZE from there for $950 shipped in great condition with a warranty, much more piece of mind than a motor with a cracked block with no warranty that you'll have to do work on...

As for the ECU...Have you looked into MegaSquirt? For the same or less than a J-Spec or even many reprogrammed ECU's you can have complete controll over the fuel or even timing control. Not to mention you can get rid of the VAF which alone will help the motor breathe easier and thus make more power. Mike Vaughn did this and it works sooo good. Plus he's got all the baseline maps to get things started, and make tuning easier.

Nick...I've got the pressure sensor, just gimme a call

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post #758 of 12501 (permalink) Old 10-11-05, 23:47
 
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Yeah Dude ... I'd say screw that motor completely! That is ALOT of work and not worth it. I've seen occasional ZE's for sale on ProbeTalk. At least now you can go Megasquirt instead of blowing money on the ZE Jet-ed ECU. That really does suck thgouh dude. Sorry to hear about it. You could see if they'd be willing to sell you just the cams or something. Alot of people have done the cam swap with impressive results. Naja. Sorry to hear the project has yet another delay.

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post #759 of 12501 (permalink) Old 10-12-05, 12:51
 
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Ouch...l Sucks about the engine.

My CEL finally went off. Kind of weird. I've been driving it more to make it go thru cycles. It took a lot of driving to make the CEL go off after plugging the vacuum line back on to the boost sensor.
Anyway, it didn't come on when I left for the airport on tuesday. It's still sitting there till tomorrow when I get back. Anyway, the bright side, I had the codes pulled, there were still no O2 codes! Now I just got to get the muffler back on so the wife will actually drive in it.
Ben, what is wrong with the engine in your car? Please don't tell me it was seized due to lack of Oil!!

Bill, 2003 3.5 SE Altima, Black with black leather, headers, full SS exhaust, lowering springs, adjustable shocks / struts, SCAFII, 20" wheels, SER Tail lights, Dual Halos around headlights, HID headlights and driving lights, Maxima Helical LSD.
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post #760 of 12501 (permalink) Old 10-12-05, 14:51
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryan
I'd ask for all my money back, if the block is cracked...well...How did that happen? Was it from the accident or from overheating? In either case it would make me wonder what if any damage was done to the heads that you may or may not be able to detect.

And even if you were to do the head swap, you'll still have a lower compression motor, have to have the heads machined flat, and checked, and pay for new head gaskets, IIRC $50 each, not to mention all new gaskets elsewhere. You'll spend close to $300 just putting the heads on...

Go to www.noyanusa.com I got my KLZE from there for $950 shipped in great condition with a warranty, much more piece of mind than a motor with a cracked block with no warranty that you'll have to do work on...

As for the ECU...Have you looked into MegaSquirt? For the same or less than a J-Spec or even many reprogrammed ECU's you can have complete controll over the fuel or even timing control. Not to mention you can get rid of the VAF which alone will help the motor breathe easier and thus make more power. Mike Vaughn did this and it works sooo good. Plus he's got all the baseline maps to get things started, and make tuning easier.

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Well he said the crack was from the wreck but yeah Im definatly thinking screw the engine and ecu but I will still get that sweet K&N cai. I was even thinking about going with just a stock De and boost it later on.
But I started calling around the found a local japanese shop that will sell me the j-spec for $895 and the engine only has 38,000 on it. That way im sure i will get some kind of warrenty and its even local! They just sold the only one they had but on friday Im supposed to call them if I want it so they can order another one. What do you think?
then I can get megasquirt..what else would I need? J-spec disty? Oh and would my car even pass emissions with megasquirt? Looks like I need to do some research...


Quote:
Originally Posted by wpendl1
Ouch...l Sucks about the engine.

Ben, what is wrong with the engine in your car? Please don't tell me it was seized due to lack of Oil!!
no I bought the car with a bad knocking noise and then diagnoses it as the 4th cylinder on the crankshaft. I have the engine out and all I need to do is pull the pan and see if its the actual crank or just the bearing. Id rather go with the j-spec but there are so many options right now...money is a factor ofcourse with me being in college and everything. I need a new computer which wont be cheap and im buying a new cell on saturday which is freaking expensive too..then I have all my bills on top of it...crap!

hey josh..you still on for the basketball tourney on saturday? it starts at 8 am but we need to be there by 7:30. Its $10 a person...just let me know
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post #761 of 12501 (permalink) Old 10-12-05, 15:41
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Emissions...I honestly don't know how good the chances are of passing on a KLZE...With no EGR that can cause NOx (nitrous oxides) emissions to go up...BUT if you have a well functioning catalytic converter it still may be possible to pass.

As for the Megasquirt...it's a factor of tuning. Run a separate set of maps that is as close to stock as possible and you should be fine...on a KLDE with a Cat...on a KLZE...I honestly don't know...

I have seen good running cars pass the sniffer emissions test without a cat, even if it is legally required...then again the KLZE isn't technically a legal motor to have in a car...because of emissions...

That all said, I think the best thing you can do is research and try...

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post #762 of 12501 (permalink) Old 10-12-05, 15:50
 
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Okay to update you guys, the best places to get a j-spec around orem are:

Japanese engine motor exchange which quoted me at $895
Alpha Auto Repair which quoted me at $950
Japanese engine exchange which quoted me at $1,100

I have a concern about the first 2 though because they say the engine is only a 2.2 L
The third said that he's pretty sure his is a 2.5 L but the first one says they only have 2.2 L in Japan. Ryan how big is yours?
Also the second one says he knows a guy who might be able to get me an even cheaper j-spec because he goes straight to LA where the japanese dock their boats and buys engine by the crate for cheap but doesnt know what he is getting....he goes this thursday and if there is an mx6 engine then he will sell it to me cheap.
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post #763 of 12501 (permalink) Old 10-12-05, 16:04
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There never has been a 2.2L KL...AFAIK...There has been the 1.8 K8 in the MX-3, the 2.0L KFZE in certain overseas cars, and the 2.5L, the KLDE and the KLZE.

I'd be kinda hesitant to buy it unless you saw it, and/or I checked it out with ya...The K-Series motors are not widely known like Honda's B and D series, or even Nissan's SR/RBD motors...Or Toyota and the 2JZ...or the Mitsu and 4G63 ect ect...I could go on...

But under $900, if it's a true KLZE, that's a good deal!

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post #764 of 12501 (permalink) Old 10-12-05, 16:57
 
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You can get them on ebay shiped for under $900. A true klze that is.
the 2.2 is probably the 4 banger. Wrong year. 2 gens only had the 2.0 4 and the 2.5 v6.
If it's just a rod knock... pull the bottom apart and replace the conecting rod bearings. Most likley it's not the crank shaft bearings. That's be alot cheaper than buying a new engine. You can replace the conecting rod bearings without pulling the heads off IIRC.
If not, I might know a guy who might buy the engine from you for say $100 or so.
No cat... Who would run around with no cat in a county that requires emissions.... I should have you hook my car up to the sniffer see if it'll pass emissions.

Bill, 2003 3.5 SE Altima, Black with black leather, headers, full SS exhaust, lowering springs, adjustable shocks / struts, SCAFII, 20" wheels, SER Tail lights, Dual Halos around headlights, HID headlights and driving lights, Maxima Helical LSD.
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post #765 of 12501 (permalink) Old 10-12-05, 17:12
 
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http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mazda...spagenameZWDVW
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mazda...spagenameZWDVW

Or here you can buy a whole car, and drive it back. pull the engien, part the car...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mazda...spagenameZWDVW

Bill, 2003 3.5 SE Altima, Black with black leather, headers, full SS exhaust, lowering springs, adjustable shocks / struts, SCAFII, 20" wheels, SER Tail lights, Dual Halos around headlights, HID headlights and driving lights, Maxima Helical LSD.
2010 Maxima SV Prem + Tech package
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