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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I decided to use some of the expensive gauges I have sitting in the basement on the Mazda 626.
The car will run 3 autometer Ultra Lite gauges:
-Boost/Vacuum 30psi/30InHg.
-Pyrometer 0 - 1600* F
-Oil pressure 0-100psi

The car will run an Innovate Motorsports wideband gauge:
-XD-16 low profile multi purpose gauge -Or-
-Blue DB-gauge.

The rusted 626 ran a ghetto style building HVAC gauge:
-Weiss instruments 20DT-F: 2" Digital temperature in Fahrenheit, -40 to 230* range, 12V dc, 1 second refresh, peak high and low recall Hvac gauge and sensor I use as a charge pipe intake air temp sensor.

I made a metal ring that bolted behind it, it mounted to the front lower right dash blower mounting stud.
I though of cutting a rectangle the size of the digital display in the right passenger kick panel and mounting the gauge behind the kick panel but I also though I could convert it into an "automotive" gauge.

I wanted to install a brushed aluminum gauge bezel ring on it similar to the autometer ultra light series gauges.
I have a no name cheap princess auto oil pressure gauge, it's sending unit leaked all around the seam.
I pried the bezel ring off the oil gauge.

The IAT gauge has a 2" body and the face is 3" diameter, I cut the front lip down to the inner diameter of the bezel ring, about 2 1/8".
The thickness of the face plastic is thinner than the gauge mounting area in the bezel ring, options where to either
-make a shim that sat behind the gauge face, it would need to have a 2" hole and 2 1/8" outer diameter.
-Or make a 2 1/8" round clear plastic screen cover.
I tried plexiglass but it was too thick, automotive light bulb containers have clear plastic and stickers protecting it but the flat areas where just a bit too small, I finally found a CD case without scratches, cut a gauge face plate.
I cut a 3" long piece of 2"I.D. PVC tubing, used some wood wrapped in a rag to support the gauge bezel lip and used a vice to crimp the bezel lip around the gauge and face plate.
I could have had a sticker printed in the autometer face color with *Fahrenheit written above and IAT below the digital display area but putting anything else on hold is not an option.

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Without a sticker it still looks a lot more automotive than it did.

Now the question is where to install it. Potential locations are in the passenger kick panel angled up and towards the seat, in the passenger dash vent, in the drivers dash vent.

The layout for the main gauges will be:
- four gauges in the central dash vents similar to this:
Vehicle Car Speedometer Motor vehicle Gauge

This time the oscillating vent button will remain as part of the water meth controls and I will use the four button factory touring sedan bezel with the factory hazard/rear defrost button combo relocated to the left side of the steering wheel.
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Carved out a 5door bezel and moved the oscillating vent button assembly further out so it would sit flush with the gauge plate.

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Audio equipment Electrical wiring Gas Wire Electrical supply

After doing all the math for the gauge positions and button I tried it on a piece of wood.
Gauge Measuring instrument Gas Auto part Machine

Yes they are all boost gauges, used gauges with no wires for test fitting.
The positioning was good, the second angled gauge just clears the vent button assembly.
I picked up two black plastic clip boards from the dollar store to use for the gauge plate.
Positioned one between two pieces of wood and screwed the wood together and cut the four holes, it went well but whe I tried drilling pilot holes for the button cutout the bit got caught in the plastic wrapper and masking tape the plastic was wrapped in an the plastic cracked. This wasn't a big deal, each clip board has enough plastic to make 3 gauge plates but I wasn't happy with the way the plastic cuts using a grinder or sands on a 26" table top belt sander, the plastic melts back to it self and does not snap off like most other melted plastic cut burrs.

I also bought a black plastic trash bin but I'm not happy with its finish.
I found what looks like the right kind of plastic online but the prices and shipping for a small piece are very high.

It dawned on me that if I coat metal in lots of powder coat I can make it look like plastic. Working with metal is so much easier than plastic, it doesn't melt or shatter, because it's getting getting coated I can sand or scratch the front, it can be curved to match the bezel's contour and hold the shape without heat or the risk of damage.
And I can weld mounting tabs to to the back.
Automotive tire Wood Gas Audio equipment Electrical wiring

It's not perfect but it will do or serve as a good template if I find the right plastic.
Bicycle accessory Bicycle part Electrical wiring Carbon Audio equipment

Now to make custom gauge mounting brackets, figure out the wideband gauge and location, I brought home the db gauge tonight but it reallly doesn't match the autometer gauges.
I want the wideband next to the boost gauge so I can monitor boost and A/F's at the same time.
The XD-16 gauge comes with an extra white air fuel face and polished stainless besel.
I have 2 sets of 7 gauge faces and 2 polished bezels.
The issue is the bezel is huge and the gauge is tiny, perhaps I can gring down one of the bezels and powder coat or paint it in brushed aluminum, perhaps even have one of the faceplates coated to match the autometer gauges.
The gauge body will need a sleeve to make it 2" diameter and to be long enough to angle at 5*.
Also one of the jack ports with a 6" wire permanently attached to the gauge will need to be accessible to connect with easily. Perhaps they make an extension connector I can have access to elsewhere than 6" from the gauge.

The wideband controller requires a calibration momentum switch, the temp gauge requires a momentum switch, the db gauge requires a dimmer toggle switch I might install the D-pic gauge in the left dash vent and add a toggle switch to shut it off when not in use, lots of annoying flashing lights.
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·

The XD-16 gauge is just too big to put where I want it (on the right of the boost gauge, note I am just using the shinny bezel and white face plate siting on top of an autometer gauge for the white XD-16 gauge mock up in these pictures).
Sleeve Musical instrument accessory Bumper Automotive lighting Automotive exterior

The XD-16 gauge bezel could be milled down by 1.4MM all the way around, lowering its outer diameter from 62.1MM to 59,3mm which is closer to the autometer 56.09mm diameter bezels. but unless it's done on a lathe or CNC machine it wouldn't look good.

The Blue DB gauge is the same diameter as the autometer gauges but doesn't work with them at all:
Hood Automotive lighting Bumper Vehicle door Audio equipment

The DB gauge is not fully inserted in the gauge plate it's body diameter is a bit bigger than the autometer gauges.

This is what I wish I could have:
Automotive lighting Musical instrument accessory Audio equipment Automotive design Gas

But installing this bezel on the actual gauge is near impossible and would leave the actual gauges body exposed in front of the panel. With a silver vinyl decal to match the the autometer gauge face color the wideband would really blend.
I really wanted the wideband on the right side of the boost gauge but we don't always get what we want.

Option 1:
I ground down the far right dash vent and embedded the XD-16 gauge into it at an angle, I find the XD-16 looks better in black.

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The fourth gauge would be the autormeter ultra lite D-PIC gauge instead of the narrow band, it will run a 3 way 2 pole mini toggle switch to select between ON/OFF/DIMMED.

Option 2:
(One I never though of visually trying until after the XD-16 was installed in the vent):
Automotive lighting Bumper Musical instrument accessory Automotive exterior Cable

The XD-16 to the left of the boost gauge in the plate, picture it with the shinny bezel painted to match the autometer bezels. It looks much better than the 1st picture and would be much more efficient than having the wideband to the left of the steering wheel If I can get used to looking past the digital wideband gauge to look at boost before the A/F's under heavy acceleration is another question but it would be much easier than having to take my eyes off the road to see the wideband on the far left.
If the wideband is on the right of the steering wheel the D-PIC gauge will be in the far left vent. Or maybe the oil pressure gauge making the order analog, digital, analog, digital.
If I get a silver wideband decal made I will get a silver charge air temp gauge sticker made.

Anyone have thoughts on option 1 or option 2 ?

Premium Member
1,413 Posts
I would put the oil pressure gauge to the left of the steering wheel, wideband to the right so second option. It's coming along nicely. Keep up the good work. 👍

2,561 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Installed the temp gauge in the passenger side dash vent, there was just enough structure in the vent assembly to cut and fit the gauge without the vent falling apart (the gauge just fit) I angled the cuts in the vent as much as possible and embedded the left side of the gauge bezel in the vent.

Motor vehicle Automotive design Grey Automotive lighting Font

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It is held in place with a black industrial zip tie, I was going to make a steel clamp that went around the gauge body and sat behind the vent to hold the gauge, I knew it would be the weirdest looking hose clamp ever because the gauge is at an angle and the vents are curved on the back like they are on the front. I wrapped the gauges body in masking tape, installed it and marked out the back side of the vent on the tape, while gathering the material I came across a bundle of black tie wraps with metal locking tabs and though well you know.

I would put the oil pressure gauge to the left of the steering wheel, wideband to the right so second option. It's coming along nicely. Keep up the good work. 👍

Thanks for the input and I agree, I like the way the wideband looks in black and I like the way the wideband looks in the vent on the left side of the steering wheel but I refuse to choose looks over function so since my last post I have been working on a solution.

I cut a piece of plexiglass using a grinder and made it match the inside of the donor brushed aluminum bezel:
White Automotive tire Black Motor vehicle Hood

The plexiglass is larger than the gauge face and smaller than the gauge body, to mark the hole I cut a piece of cardboard and used it as a shim inside the XD-16 bezel to center the plexiglass, the bezel centered the gauge face and I marked the hole for the record button with a small drill bit but drilling something clear that's sitting on a white rag ... So I cut out a second plexiglass disk to match the first one I ruined.

Black Gadget Textile Sleeve Grey

Still the first plexiglass disk in the pic above.

I will be honest I had a series of potential plans at this point but no concrete path planed except to install the plexiglass disk in the aluminum donor bezel, fold the bezel lip over the plexiglass, center the plexiglass and bezel over the exposed gauge the bezel and green board in the gauge are the exact same outer diameter, I used masking tape to protect them and a hose clam to line them up and piloted three holes at an angle using the smallest drill bit I have.

I though of just using 3 longer screws to mount the the exposed gauge to the new bezel but the new bezel isn't much thicker than the plexiglass making it sit much lower than the other gauges and I didn't much like idea of the white plastic gauge display sitting in the metal gauge plate cut out, or the gauge being held together by it's electronics. Made a sleeve using an aftermarket steering wheel horn plug off, I cut out the center the size of the plexiglass in the bezel and the bezels outer diameter was the same as the horn plug, I ground down the four clips on the horn plug and they clipped into the XD-16 bezel without it's clear glass. but I didn't like suck a fragile mounting point and would have had to cut the gauge plate hole quite a bit larger.

Finally I gave up and called my old boss to see if I could use his lathe to cut one of the 2 shinny XD-16 gauge bezels I have and turn it into a gauge housing I could attach the new bezel to. I figured I could mill down the area around the gauge display, gauge face and glass to be 1.5mm larger than the autometer gauge bodys (roughly the size of the DB gauge and every non autometer gauge I tried in the gauge plate).

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I ground away all the material where the mounting screw go on the XD-16 bezel so the angled screws could reach the holes in the new bezel.

Cut the gauge hole in the mounting plate larger, ground the oscillating vent button and mounting area... to fit the gauge body behind the plate.

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Because of the XD-16 gauge body is behind the plate I will not be able to angle the gauges towards the drivers seat but that will make fabricating mounting brackets for the gauges much easier.

The XD-16's new bezel sits out as far as the autometer bezels (after grinding the housing edges on the back side to fit the curved plate).

Hood Wood Bumper Table Automotive exterior

The XD-16 mounting bracket will have to push the backside of the gauge against the gauge plate, this will require welding mounting studs to the back of the gauge plate (which has very little rel-estate remaining around the gauge body).

Once all the mounting brackets and mounting clips are fabricated and welded in place I can start powdercoating the plate face, I have some screaming eagle black crinkle, I will try it on a test panel and see if through sanding and coating over it with smooth powder I can match the plastic bezels texture/finish.

The last decision to make is which gauge to put in the 4th position, oil pressure or digital performance information center.
If the oil pressure gauge is in the 4th position than all the gauge to monitor while driving are in the same field of vision. If the D-pic is in the 4th position it is easier to operate by the driver and passenger. However it is a very annoying gauge, doesn't need to be watched while accelerating, will be set-up to toggle off and spend most of it's time off unless it's needed...

The plan for everything dash related is to make it plug and play, for every gauge, toggle and button to unplug at the dash and the dash to unplug at the firewall, all wires and connectors will be added to the dash harness.To achieve this with the xd-16 gauge I need two stereo jack extensions, to find out if I need male or female ends I went through the XD-16 manual and it turns out the button has a lot of functions other than record so I pulled the light control button from the donor oil pressure gauge and modified it to fit and function between the plexiglass lens and the xd-16 button. It also turns out I can program the color of all the led lights on the gauge to any shade of red, blue, green or combination of them. The xD-16 is also capable of lean condition alarm programming and I can use the 2nd wideband auxiliary output to use as a lean condition fail safe using an adjustable pressure switch and relay. If I dont want leaner than 10.8 a/fs at and above 26psi on watermeth, I set the wideband to put out 0v from 10.8 and lower and 5v above 10.9, set the pressure switch to 26psi, if above 26psi the a/fs go above 10.8 the relay is triggered cutting power to the stage 3 boost control solenoid.


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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Labeling dash switches and controls.

With all the junk I have modified and am stuffing in the car I need to label everything properly.
I already can't remember what most of the unlabeled toggle and rocker switches on my other cars do, all switches and controls must be labeled and function in Quebec, to properly us dial controllers they must be labelled accurately.

The list of controls and rockers...
-MSD boost timing master knob. (to match original)
-MSD boost retard control knob. (to match original)
-MSD boost retard control dial on box (original 0-5psi, new 15-20psi).
-SDS extra injector controller set point dial (original Vacuum to 21psi, new 1-36psi).
-Launch/ Stage 2/ Stage ,1 boost control 3way rocker. (white on clear vinyl)
-Air/ Horn/ All , Horn select 3way rocker. (white on clear vinyl)
-Fog light, factory Mx6 fog light rocker and connector.
-Cooling Fan On/ Sensor 2way rocker. (white on clear vinyl)
-MAIN "water/meth system on/off" Oscillating vent toggle, (white on clear vinyl)
-Intake air temp gauge momentary switch for High/ Low/ Reset control.
-Autometer D-pic On/Off/Dim 3way rocker. (white on clear vinyl)
-Stage 3 boost On/Off
-Water meth indicator LED's. On , Jet 1 , Jet 2 , Jet 3 (white on clear vinyl)
-Boost stage indicator LED's. Launch, Stage 1, Stage 2, Stage 3 (white on clear vinyl)
-Clock, indoor and outdoor Temperature, Voltage. digital display (the one I will probably use has two unlabelled buttons, guessing one is set and the other is view, they should be labeled).

The MSD timing dials, the horn rocker and launch/boost rocker test fitted in a gray dash section:
Gadget Auto part Family car Font Cable

The MSD dials are installed in the Auto Adjustable Suspension selector box, I gutted the box enough to fit the potentiometers and left a recessed lip at the front to insert a stainless mounting plate and cut up a dash fuse box cover for the black plastic.

Motor vehicle Automotive lighting Steering part Hood Automotive design

The MSD dial knobs have been changed from the 22mm diameter (0.86") dials to new 15mm diameter (0.59"), 12mm tall (0.47"), 1/4" shaft dials. The smaller dials allow for smaller labels.
The 3way rockers have been shimmed with 4.5mm stainless sleeves to move them forward. 4.5mm was the most I could shim them and still have them clip in the dash cut out.

The MSD dial decals:
Sleeve Collar Bag Font Sportswear

The AAS area is smaller than the MSD dial boxes so I cant just have them copied.
I want to redesign them to blend with the rest of the dash.
I want to ditch the MSD logo, ditch all the red, have "TIMING" at the top of the dial and "CONTROL" at the bottom in regular white lettering. Might keep the Advance and arrow. The dial would just be white ticks in place of the black and white numbers. The Boost retard label I will split the wording and use 13 ticks to mark 0-3 degrees in 1/4 degree increments and 0,1,2,3 in white lettering.

The SDS EIC controller:
Temperature Font Auto part Circle Gas

I think it will require smaller knobs and although the 2.5 Bar map sensor and the 2.5 Gauge pressure sensor have the same resolution I definitely need more accurate dial markings, I am also thinking an all black sticker with white writing will look better than the clear sticker over metal finish.
Also the new threshold dial numbers are a real pain in the ass to figure out. The current -10, -2, 11, 22psi positions don't make linear sense, the MPX4250AP map sensor that was in the EIC has a range of 20 - 250kpa (-11.799 to 21.559 psi) so -11.799 psi is the lowest setting possible not 10. Perhaps the 4 dashes aren't at 90* angles.
But they look like they are:
Motor vehicle Electrical wiring Gas Audio equipment Cable

The threshold dial makes 3/4 of a turn, 270 degrees. According to the sticker the first 90* = 8psi (9.799 based on Map), the second 90* = 13psi, the 3rd 90* = 10.559psi.
This makes no sense the map sensor is linear, the potentiometer (variable rate resistor) is linear but the dial markings are not.
Just converting absolute and gauge pressure into automotive terms is a pain in the ass because we use gauge pressure readings. 0kpa absolute = 0 psi absolute but = -14.7 gauge. But online calculators all work the other way, car guys don't want 15.7 psi readings to = 1 psi and don't want vacuum/boost measure from 0 psia to 14.7 psia and then 0 psi up...
Do I add 14.7 psi to each of the current offset points on the dial, do I map out 2.9psi to 36.25psi evenly across 270* on the dial or do I test and confirm activation/psi points on the EIC (this requires sending an RPM/coil pulse to the unit).
Project on hold (#878).

Anyone know of a program I can use to design all these labels?
I have tried several online label makers and other programs, the best results are using DRAW.IO but it's meant to make flow charts and diagrams and is limited for my uses. I can import images but can only change their size, I have been using Photostudio to edit images before importing them...

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I am working in MM on and everything has been measured twice and drawn to spec but who knows what happens once I save it as an image. I cant figure out how to make the gauge display area clear without the background grey showing up, I used to visually match pictures of the autometer silver gauge faces and get the color code but that doesn't seem to be working out:
Gauge Measuring instrument Circle Font Motor vehicle

The digital clock/thermometer/voltmeter I plan on using is this:
Green Rectangle Line Font Measuring instrument

It comes in green, red or blue display. (Blue).
I am 100% sure I can install it in the factory clock location with a bit of customizing and I am 90% sure I can install it without it's plastic case inside the actual body of the factory clock and use the factory H M buttons to operate it.

As for where to put the other rocker and toggle buttons, I have a blue touring sedan console section that sits in front of the shifter in place of the unusable coin tray, it has the hatch lock unlock button and two block of plates:
Font Parallel Handwriting Art Circle

In Europe its 2 buttons and 1 block off plate:
Handwriting Font Line Parallel Art

If I ran out of space for buttons I figured I would find some that fit in these factory switch cutouts.
The tailgate switch has a 30mm tall body and it looks like the wires coming from it touch the carpet so their isn't much clearance and most rockers are taller.
Mazda chose some weird button sizes for this panel and I cant find any that will fit the actual cut outs but I have found 27mm X 18mm faced rockers, if I modify the clip lip in the panel and shave the 18mm wide rocker faces I can fit 3 of them sideways in the block off plate holes, adding a total of 6 two or three way rocker or momentum switches.
After all the work to modify and keep the oscillating vent button...
Unfortunately I can't find these NKK JWM series switches for less than 10$ each + shipping.

If anyone knows of a better or easier way to design labels/decals please let me know.

20 Posts
I'm glad you know what you're doing! I'm a layman when it comes to electronics and pretty much most other stuff. This is a very comprehensive build and I'm looking forward to seeing the finished car. Cheers Carnage.

Premium Member
1,413 Posts
I would use Photoshop or illustrator, but there's a free version in the gimp program that I tinker with to create .png images to not have a background. Hope this helps and keep up the good work.

2,561 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I'm glad you know what you're doing! I'm a layman when it comes to electronics and pretty much most other stuff. This is a very comprehensive build and I'm looking forward to seeing the finished car. Cheers Carnage.
I'm glad you think I know what I am doing, that makes one of us. I don't know a lot about electronics, I have worked with resistors, diodes, transducers (on board pressure sensor), capacitors and potentiometers (variable rate resistors). I just learn what I need to know to achieve the results I want when possible.

I don't know if I would call it "Comprehensive", maybe borderline stupidity?
I am not a purist, I will modify, cut, customize any part of a car but I also realize things fail and builds change, being able to easily remove anything or everything added makes sense. Logic and reason would say make everything added install and connect the way factory stuff does. Insanity is doing so.

I would use Photoshop or illustrator, but there's a free version in the gimp program that I tinker with to create .png images to not have a background. Hope this helps and keep up the good work.
I have had to use photoshop to crop sections of images I used in draw io, I haven't tried to modify the finished designs out of fear it might change the dimensions, but printing directly from the program I had to increase print size to 130%.
I tried a bunch on online programs and downloaded a few, though I downloaded a copy of gimp but can't seem to find it, after spending 20 or 30 minutes on each program to see if they could do what I wanted I gave up my search. I will give gimp a try. Thanks.

I talked to the guy who does all the body shop next door's vinyl decal printing, he can do small lettering for rocker switches... but everything I bring him has to be in EPS file (Encapsulated Postscript), figuring out how to convert to EPS is a later problem.
I asked him if he could scan a GT logo from a fender and print some, he said no.

Mr. BlackMX6 I recall you having some factory GT fender decals. Any chance you still have them? If so any chance of getting a scan of them and measurements?

The car probably looks better without them but running AWR mounts and a complete 3" exhaust will attract some unwanted police attention, in the passed the turbo and GT decals have helped keep the cops from pulling the car over. But who knows, lately I don't hear any loud cars on the road. It's a 100$ to 200$ fine for "Changing the muffler or exhaust system to make it noisier than the original" so far I have been able to convince them it's the motor and not the exhaust that's loud.

Going to use a turbo badge on the back that goes with the 626 and MAZDA badge instead of the factory sticker.

This one 5.12" long and 0.80" tall and should work pretty well with the 666 and MAZDA badge,it's thicker than the factory badges would have to sand the back side down until it matches factory thickness. would go on the right where turbo sticker is. Factory 626 badge 0.5mm, Mazda badge 0.35mm, the turbo logo 6mm:
Bicycle part Rim Auto part Font Nickel

This one is 6.3" long and 0.91" tall (about the same length as the MAZDA badge) and is 4mm thick
More like the 626/MX6 badge with the black plastic outline recessed around the letters:
Motor vehicle Automotive design Grey Font Automotive exterior

It would go on the left side of the car at the bottom.

Back to interior labels.

I managed to "draw" out the MSD control dial label. I had to cut and paste pictures of the MSD dials, measure out each notch position degrees and match them one at a time (they aren't close to linear, even on the original dial box the notches are all differently spaced, there must be 100 layers on this:

Speedometer Gauge Font Odometer Trip computer

Not happy with the right dial so I added a grey ring (lost more work than it should be).

Speedometer Odometer Gauge Plant Motor vehicle

Next to the pictures of the msd dials:

Speedometer Odometer Trip computer Gauge Tachometer

254 Posts
This actually pretty well done overall and should look nice when completed. I would paint the panel and gauge rings black to keep more in the look of the original. I kind of did something similar, but used a small LCD screen instead as a replacement for one of the outlets.
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
This actually pretty well done overall and should look nice when completed. I would paint the panel and gauge rings black to keep more in the look of the original. I kind of did something similar, but used a small LCD screen instead as a replacement for one of the outlets.

View attachment 14203

I like it.
The motor free bezel vents are designed like the far left and right vents, that's cool you can put the vent back in.
Dusty their I can see.
Is the oil and map in Kpa?

I will definitely coat the panel black but the gauge faces are all aluminum color so I will leave the rings brushed aluminum. When I bought the gauges the speed shop I purchased them from could get these or the cobalt series (I believe) with carbon fiber faces, so I bough the ultra lite. The black face black bezel pro-comp would have been best. Had dual display digital gauges been around even better.

I do feel I have gone from a 2 gauge set-up to a too many gauge set-up with too many switches.

My draw IO skills are improving, the results aren't any better but getting there is easier.
It is a very accurate draw program but it's meant for designing charts and diagrams, not what I'm doing with it.
Although it can be used in 0.1mm increments, the shape outline is in points. I take dozens of precise measurements and try to use them and math to position everything but none of it works out.

Light Black Font Line Circle

I have figured out how to crop away areas of the pictures but it has to be done in Photoshop or photostudio and that converts it to an image and changes the sizes. So the image then has to be loaded into draw io and resized to match the original.
The timing control and SDS stickers will keep black backgrounds but all the black rectangles will be removed before I send the images out for printing.
But for now because home printers can't print white and working with white only images on a white back ground is impossible I used black backgrounds.

MSD label test fitting:
Camera accessory Digital camera Cameras & optics Gadget Reflex camera

For the extra injector controller I just added 1Bar to the threshold positions. I will make one or two more with linear set points and use the one that's closest to the actual dial function once I get the car and SDS working. Worse case scenario I set the threshold to 15psi and install the dial so it points to that position on the label.

Push button added to wideband gauge:
Barometer Gauge Handwriting Watch Temperature

To mount the gauges and plate to the factory bezel i've been making mounting clamps out of 16gauge stainless (so they wont bend). So far this is the best I can come up with because there is no room behind the factory bezel and because the gauge plate is curved the gauges need to be supported on 3 out of four axes otherwise they can be rocked up and down in the face plate so the aurometer mounting brackets wont work.

Art Font Material property Liquid Drinkware

The clamp lip that touches the gauge plate is curved to match the plate. The gauge bezels will hold the plate in place, the clamps have two "arms" that will sit against the back of the factory plastic bezel (represented by the black rectangle in the picture). The gauges mounting studs will tighten the gauge, plate, bezel and clamp together and the clamp bolt on the side will lock everything in place. So attaching the plate to the bezel wont require adhesive and the plate and gauges will be clamped to the factory bezel, on the old set-up the gauges and plate where supported only by the adhesive and the gauge brackets sat against the plate .
The wideband gauge needs to be pushed forward not pulled inward like the other gauges, I will run a flat tab with holes for the gauge studs off the side of the boost gauges mounting clamp, the two nuts and washers will be installed on the wideband gauges studs, when the nuts are loosened up the studs they will push against the tab from the boost gauge clamp and push the wideband forward, a second set of nuts on the other side of tab will lock everything in place.

Hopefully this will all be done soon and I can start the hard part which is installing all the necessary wiring and connectors with the dash harness so the dash can be removed and installed like factory. I still have to figure out what to do about the boost gauge air line so it disconnects without having to be fished through the dash.

254 Posts
Yes, in kPa. The number beside the MAP is peak map reading, resets every time the car is started. I do actually have the motorised vents as well, they are really rare here and were only on some Japanese second hand imports and I wasn't going to cut those up. I also used to have a smaller LCD for just map and afr where the blanking plate was in the corner of the instrument cluster beside the tach. This is temporary anyway, I am in the process of doing a fully digital dash.
My respect for the amount of work you are doing and am looking forward to seeing the finished gauge cluster.

2,561 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Yes, in kPa. The number beside the MAP is peak map reading, resets every time the car is started. I do actually have the motorised vents as well, they are really rare here and were only on some Japanese second hand imports and I wasn't going to cut those up. I also used to have a smaller LCD for just map and afr where the blanking plate was in the corner of the instrument cluster beside the tach. This is temporary anyway, I am in the process of doing a fully digital dash.
My respect for the amount of work you are doing and am looking forward to seeing the finished gauge cluster.
Are peak readings above absolute or do you just start reading boost at 100kPa?
I was looking at the analog cluster from the first 666 build a few months ago, I cut new gauge faces for it, have needle glow kit and a junk yard cluster with needles that match the autometer needles, the plan was to send them to Panther but the replacement 626 body got hit, is started driving the mx6 and got hooked on the digital clusters...
The analog cluster is clocked to 240km/h the digital cluster will display up to 999.

The analog cluster has the 2 cut outs, the left side for auto gear selection and the right side for shit up light or E-cat, I have seen people try to install gauges there but they never look right, of course digital displays/gauges could be fitted, adding digital to analog.

I will be using an automatic digital cluster with a 5 speed face, the odometer is set to 0000000, I was going to just swap the odometer to the 5speed cluster but got lazy .
Last year I pined all the extra warning lights in an automatic digital cluster with thoughts of using them as status lights for boost stages and launch, active water meth jets, meth level low warning and tank pressure low warning... I pinned out the 6 gear selector lights, the power/econo/hold lights, the ABS, security and 4ws lights, they are all grounded to the cluster and each one runs back to a connector pin at harness plug. However after playing around with a damaged automatic digital cluster face plate I realized I could not get the automatic gear selector labeling off the plastic without damaging it or making a chemical mess, I put the project on hold. Getting a new warning light indicator strip made up would be possible but another cluster face plate would be a challenge.

One of the gauge mounting clamps is almost completed:
Automotive tire Electrical wiring Motor vehicle Gas Auto part

Automotive tire Vehicle brake Motor vehicle Alloy wheel Disc brake

I used 16gauge cold rolled steel instead of stainless because I had a peace the size I needed, the cold rolled steel was much harder to work with than the stainless so the rest will be made of stainless + I will have to clean and paint the steel bracket so it doesn't rust.
Yes the legs are way to long, I had plans the roll the metal touching the bezel but this steel is to hard to work with.
The gauge to the left is held on by a stainless clamp, the lip is shaped to match the bend of the gauge plate and keeps the gauge from moving but legs that press against the factory bezel will be required to hold the corners of the face plate against the bezel.

Steering part Auto part Cable Vehicle Fixture

The grant steering wheels horn button has melted in the sun, the clear soft plastic lens has curled up and the decal is messed up, I could buy another grant horn button but I am going to try and reuse this one. Besides the Grant logo's kind of suck so if I can't make this horn button work I will buy their black button and put a logo on it.

Is anyone good at graphic art?

I would like to use this logo as a horn button:
Font Sleeve Electric blue Space Electronic signage

I still need to crop out the white at the bottom of the Z, I have been trying (with no success) to fix the inside part of the M legs, because of the shading at the bottom the two first boxes look opened. The shading needs to follow the upright back seem not the lower back seem, right now the shading is inside the box and it draws my eyes to them every time.

Something like this :
Product Ball Font Material property Football

With or without the 3d sphere, the button is curved and black.

1.5" the size of the horn button:
Azure Ball Font Circle Gas

1.5 inch

If anyone knows how to fix the shading on the M please let me know.

2,561 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Figured it out, instead of trying to crop and paste, erase and hand draw I needed to copy and paste at the highest zoom point:

Font Electric blue Electronic signage Automotive exterior Display device

254 Posts
The peak reading is just the highest absolute MAP reading. Still running standard boost at this time.

Premium Member
1,413 Posts
Mr. BlackMX6 I recall you having some factory GT fender decals. Any chance you still have them? If so any chance of getting a scan of them and measurements?

Yes, you can call me Charley BTW. I will scan them later on today, it's past midnight. Sorry for responding so late, I check-in here and there.
Still need those vent parts, I'll take pics of what I need when I get the chance.

Everything looks like it's coming out nicely, keep it up.

2,561 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
Hello Charley, sorry about Mr.BlackMX6, it was meant as respect because I wanted your help but I hate being called Mr. growing up means watching your dreams die one by one so I don't want to grow up and so far I'm doing a good job.
If you could take pics of what you need soon, the dash from my 1989 626lx auto is sitting in it's back seat but there are no doors or windshield on the car so before it gets buried in snow...

Appreciate scanning the GT decals.

Powder coated the gauge plate in special black high gloss. Coated a test panel in Screaming eagle black crinkle.

Wood Tints and shades Circle Font Darkness

I put two coats of gloss black on the plate so I can sand the surface flat and make the dents and hammer marks disappear.

The Screaming eagle black crinkle powder coat has a very close finish to the factory bezel.
Hood Motor vehicle Automotive tire Automotive design Vehicle door

I covered one side of the Black crinkle test panel in matt clear spray paint and the other in matt black spray paint.

Wood Motor vehicle Automotive exterior Auto part Automotive design

Hood Automotive tire Wood Automotive design Motor vehicle

They are both really close but I think Satin Clear might be a perfect match.
I will coat another test panel when I coat the gauge panel in Black crinkle.
Will have to buy a can of satin clear to see if it's a perfect match.

Got all the gauge clamps/mounting brackets fabricated, the 16gauge stainless is so much easier to work with than the cold rolled 16gauge sheet metal.
Automotive lighting Automotive design Automotive exterior Bumper Electronic instrument

Circuit component Audio equipment Passive circuit component Gas Electrical wiring

Audio equipment Electrical wiring Gas Automotive lighting Cable

I used a 2" cast sleeve and a cup from a ball joint press kit, a grinder, a vice, vice grips, a file, a drill and a hammer to fabricate the brackets.
It would have been so much easier to weld mounting cups to the panel but I have an inability to tack weld anything except ball joints, I would want to tack weld them but would end up seam welding them at high temp to get the best penetration as thought it was holding the car, warping the gauge panel and melting through the 16gauge steel requiring porting hardened welds...

The gauge in the 4th position will need a bit of shimming to sit evenly with the others. The wideband gauge will need a sleeve around the machined aluminum for visual reasons and because the machine screw recesses allow gauge light through. The autometer gauge body's will need to be painted matt black.

Land vehicle Vehicle Motor vehicle Automotive design Gauge

half-ass photoshoped horn button logo on the Grant steering wheel:
Azure Motor vehicle Steering wheel Steering part Automotive tire

I don't know if I like that blue with the wheel.
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