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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Build changes, a quest for better mileage:

A) Fuel:

1- Reinstall EGR pipe. Because of the outlaw engineering thermo gaskets the factory EGR pipe is to short, I planed to cut it and lengthen it but decided this would make it stiffer and very hard to remove the manifold and turbo. The first thermo gasket kit came with a EGR flexpipe but the manifold fitting was 2 piece and over 3 inches long, I cut the pipe side of the fitting off, used a factory fitting and piece of EGR pipe and welded them all together. Bent the flexpipe to fit and installed it.

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2- The BOV wastes a lot of gas between shifts, adding a Bypass valve/ re-circulation valve should lower fuel consumption. But I want the option of running a BOV. Figure with pull style BOV's this could be achieved. Used an HKS type 2 as a re-circulation valve and a type 3 as a BOV, I pulled them both apart and added 0.060" valve spring shims to stiffen the springs and keep the valves from opening under engine vacuum. To switch between valves I have a 3way manual ball valve I will install in the dash. Purchased two steel weld on flanges, Soldered up two make shift bulkhead fittings for the firewall. This car has a lot of hoses passing through the firewall, Boost control 2, BOV's 3, Water meth 1, Air horn 1, Boost gauge 1, vacuum manifold 1.

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3- Colder air. Figured I was taxing the factory intercooler and using extra gas to cool air at 21psi and water meth to coll air above that. Had an aluminum front mount intercooler in the basement, it wouldn't require completely customizing the hood latch support.
This only involved a few things:
-Modify the hood latch support.
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-Fabricate intercooler mounting brackets that mount to factory rad support points.
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-Cut rad support for intercooler pipes.
-Disassemble bumper, remove passenger side vent deflecor. Fabricate inner bumper vent deflectors for new intercooler..
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-Fabricate an air filter supply vent inside the drivers fender through the factory air box supply hole, using factory mounting points.
-Relocate air horn.
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(Inner drivers fender, hidden circus, comlete with slides and horns.)
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-Fabricate 2.5" intercooler pipes.Fabricate supports, powdercoat.
-Purchase silicone couplers.
-Reweld the extra injector bungs to the 3" pipe before the throttle body, ad 1/4 steel for the water meth injector fitting and powdercoat.
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-Fabricate 3" intake pipe from air flow meter to turbo with bypass valve pipe, PCV fitting and boost control return fitting.
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(The dirty coolant hose was to make sure everything fit.)

-Build an air filter "box" that supports the air filter and air flow meter, keeps the filter from scratching the body paint and isolates the filter from engine bay air, it has been a pain in the ass, used 18gauge stainless but I had to weld two sections together because I didn't have a large enough piece, both pieces where bent so I had to pound them flat and start with messed up metal, welding didn't help matters. Looked into high temp fillers, black stick on heat shield mat, though about covering it in stickers, brought a sheet of lexan to the garage and was going to use the stainless on as a template but finally decided to clean the stailess one up, smooth all the edges, douse it with powdercoat and sand it down until the tack welds and seems disappear. I poured powdercoat along the seems and spread it with a dry paint brush. The seems disappeared, the piece still has warps and dents but looks a lot better, The 18gauge stainless was very light, now the piece is heavy, there is more than a pound of powdercoat on it, there is now more plastic than metal (thermal barrier).
Before
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
After
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(What a F*@&ing pain this small twisted air filter box was to make,


-Ad some getto rice fishnet style red spiderweb plastic to the charge pipe leaving the turbo and call it thermal underwear heat shielding.
Before
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After:
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I am on the fence about this crap, I pulled out a roll of 1800*F stick on aluminized heat wrap but it will look like shit in no time at the front of the car, I could make a wrap around stainless heat shield and powder coat it black. I don't like how thin the black powder coat makes the 2.5" pipes look.
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-Still to do: Address the elephant behind the bumper, the intercooler was so shinny I originally didn't want to paint it black but after seeing it behind the bumper it looks ricer/euro trash, look at me. Also in the few weeks it's been on the car the aluminum has picked up water stains. It needs to go satin black, powdeercoat is a non conductive heat barrier and out of the question, all the paints I researched wont hold up to road conditions. Cerakote is the only option, corrosion resistant, salt, chemical, heat, UV, impact resistant... highest adhesion rating, hardness, flexibility, thinnest coating... Apparently black dissipates the most radiant heat, Cerakote makes heat dissipating ceramic coatings, with the right one c-102 graphite black, i get 1800* F max temp, and can do the intercooler, muffler and tail pipe, manifold, turbine housing, center section, heat shield and redo all engine bolts.
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4- Run 91 octane instead of 94, option a) run a second water only tank off the same pump and use water injection from 15 to 21psi, B) rum the same tank ad run an intercooler sprayer. Because misting water into the intercooler will add warm moisture in the engine bay I am thinking water injection.

Gratuitous engine shot:
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The engine bay needs to be washed but this engine is starting to grow on me, It has required so much more work than the 89MX6 GT; I am hoping the engine bay will look as good or better.
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(2nd gratuitous engine pick.

B) Various other things that weren't on the to do list but got added:

1- Powdercoat the bumper mount brackets and headlight brackets because both where rusting, Both where a pain in the ass to sandblast, it took 4 complete headlight assemblies to make 2 okay headlights. Every screw and bolt was cleaned of rust and painted black and cleared, there are a lot of fasteners on these headlights.
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2- The car will be running a 3" exhaust system, I had a magnaflow 3" cat in the basement, I will add it to the exhaust system, it will run a flex pipe, two magnaflow cats, two resonators and a magnaflow muffler. I am also building an internal exhaust "cut out", it's a 3 inch stainless flap on a throttle shaft that will open and close with a window style switch, the "closed" position will be adjustable from 15% to 30%. It could also be operated using a waste gate style actuator and only open under boost.


3- The pink valve cover and oil cap are getting the axed, powder coated the oil cap and PCV pipe black and will powdercoat another valve cover jollypop red to match the rest of the engine.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
There is still quite a lot to do, most of it is straight forward but some things like the interior wire harnesses have to be pulled out of the rusted 626GT, the exhaust comes of the 88mx6 GT, so does the rear sway bar, custom trailing axle and the dash.
For the dash, I need to bring it home and swap the 88MX6GT wiring for 626GT touring sedan harness. Then put swap the MX6 GT harness into the original 626dx blue dash that came in the 666 and reinstall it in the 88MX6GT
Lots of wiring to do but once I map out the harness lengths, making the harnesses should go quickly.
If I am lucky I could have it running in October.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Goodbye pink oil cap.
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Yes I powdercoated a billet aluminum oil cap and made it look like the factory plastic oil cap, I put a lot of powdercoat on the cap to make it easier to touch when the engine is hot. Hopefully the black will stand off nicely with a deeper red valve cover.

Filled the transmission with gear oil, located and installed the last power steering line and filled the system, installed the rear braided brake hoses and bled the brakes and installed new handbrake cables, then a rain storm hit.

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3" diameter stainless flap, 2mm thick, cut a Subaru legacy throttle shaft to fit the flap, just need two 3/8" thick, 3bolt 3" collector flanges.


This exhaust reducer will use a 626 touring sedan rear hatch lock switch to open and close the flap.

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This linear actuator was from a fume hood valve (got a box full of them), it's 12v dc, 4 amp, has a maximum dynamic load of 61 pound force, maximum static load of 112 pound force. Its speed is 24mm/s at no load, 18mm/s at max load.
I could also use a factory window motor for the flap or buy an electric valve control motor like this one:
Electric exhaust cutout bypass motor
Or use a factory wastegate actuator to open the flap at 7psi.
Or use a bowden cable to manually open and close the flap.

I would prefer using an electric valve and the tailgate switch to control it but that all depends on if there is space to mount the actuator on a three inch exhaust system. I can install the flap at the front collector flange before the cats or at the collector flange near the muffler, it would be easier to fit before the cats but would probably muffle sound better at the back of the car.

Today I wanted to confirm the switch would work to operate the actuator, It does, so I will add those wires to the interior wire harness that runs from front to back.
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
This great to follow. You're a true guru!
Thanks, don't know about guru but I am trying to be thorough, don't want to have to do anything twice or worry about anything once the car is completed, the list of concerns so far is small, the turbo oil return hose is very soft (found more of the same hose, will swap it when I build the downpipe.) the front strut tower bearings creak when turning the wheels, they where greased and in good shape, don't know if its the extra preload on the front coils thats causing this or what? the wheels are in the air, figure the weight of the car will be more than the preload on the coils so I might have to swap the bearings but want to wait until the car has everything installed so I can check the front end ride height with the extra coil isolaters and shims.

The power steering pump and pulley are also a concern, the pulley has a small wobble, I had powder coated a 2nd pulley and it also wobbled. before I started on the intercooler I removed the pump and pulley, coated the bracket in por 15 where I cut it after powdercoating and grabbed two other power steering pumps, I had 3 pumps and 5 pulley and tried all the combinations and every one wobbled, I sand blasted the best pulley and coated it in por 15 (no oven heat), installed it on the powdercoated pump and put it back in the car. I am still worried about the wobble in the PS pulley, the car is running a unorthodox racing aluminum underdrive crank pulley, the rusted 626gt burned a lot of alternators at wide opened throttle, this is why I have gone through all the factory harnesses, every wire I add to the car gets loomed and checked twice, the air pump in the trunk ground to its body, I have electrical isolaters to mount it to the car with... so I am trying to prevent killing alternators in this car, there is a chance the rpms are climbing too fast for the alternator to handle so I decided to run the underdrive pulley and give up the rubber assembled factory harmonic balancer pulley, factor in the vibration from the AWR motor mounts, the deflection caused by running 4X factory boost and the wobbly power steering pulley is a concern.

Although everything else has gone together with a fight, I won all those fights so far and everything is really solid.
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Found an interior wire harness in the basement that's in good shape but it doesn't have the connectors for the steering box or the aas.
Day 1:
Pulled the interior out of the rusted 626gt
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Day 2:
Pulled the interior harness, managed to keep every mounting clip in tact. This car has rusted away so I drilled and cut around the clips I couldn't remove and removed them from below the metal.
In the middle of the rusted strut tower there is drill cut hole.
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After lots of work and effort, I had a very dirty complete interior harness.

The steering control box and bracket under the drivers seat have rust, more crap to powder coat

The stupid auto adjusting suspension system also controls the power steering system, these 626's are the first f2t's I ever ran power steering on, last summer I put the entire system together under the hood and coated everything, then I fabricated a hubb adapter from a factory steering hubb, should have deleted the power steering this spring but I didn't.
I researched the PS controller and AAS system but there isn't enough information in the WSM to bypass the AAS controller with the steering set to sport.
3 signals leave the AAS switch and go to the AAS controller, 3 signals leave the AAS and go to the steering control box, what these signals are isn't listed in the WSM, the plan is to measure the signal going to the Aas box from the switch in sport mode then measure the signal going to the steering box and just send that signal to the appropriate wire on the PS controller.
So the AAS controller and switch need to be connected to do so.

Day 3:
Relocate the AAS connector to the drivers side of the car, 15 wires, 10 are crimped to other wires 4 need to be shortened and 1 needs to be extended:
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None of this is fun, this harness has been the single longest part of this build, porting the head, tearing down the block and rebuilding it, the intercooler and plumbing fab and install... all took less time.
Relocated stupid AAS controller connector:
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Now the fun begins, wires need to be added to the harness.
- 4 door speakers wires to amp under passenger seat.
-The remote wire for the amp.
-2 shielded 16 gauge wires from the trunk latch shifter molding switch to the passenger trunk for the exhaust flap motor.
-6 wires to the drivers side trunk from the drivers dash.
-A shielded 8c (8 colored wires in a metal wrapper with a bare ground wrapped around it and all that is wrapped in plastic sleeve)18gauge wire from the water meth fuse box under the dash to the passenger side of the trunk. These wires combine at both ends and supply 12v 30amp power to the air pump (wires can combine to carry amperage to the same device) 8x 18gsufe wire is overkill for 30 amp over such a sort distance but this 8c wire will seriously reduce any chance of 12v radiation through the wire and the relay is in the dash fuse box so the wire will only carry power when the pump is on.
After 13 hours of frustration I called it a day.

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Still have to do the drivers rear strut tower to trunk and to the fuel pump and sending unit, rear deck and speaker connecttors deck brake light to spoiler wire but most of the harness is done.
I will add this to the list of things I never want to do again, peeling that much 34yesr old tape leaves you covered in black sticky paste and taping that much wire cost me most of my electric tape.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The harness is almost completely done, all that's left to do is check and retape the short run to the fuel pump, tape the two front harness brackets to the harness, add the spoiler brake lights wires to the trunk harness. Most of the factory tape covering the wire splices in the rear of the harness was moist and loose (that sounds wrong but it's the only way to describe it) it was all removed cleaned and replaced.
This harness took 10 rolls of black electric tape, green and yellow tape for the splices, blue and red tape ...
I will have to buy more damn tape for the custom dash and engine accessory harnesses. The 4door interior harness is a friggin lot of wire harness.

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Some almost finished interior parts, some of the blue bits will get painted to match the brake light cover and the ugliest room decor in the world (only use to store car parts, well every room is for car parts).
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Next I have to completely was the interior of the car before installing the harness, cutting the floor foam and installing the carpet...
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Finished the last bits of the harness, washed the interior and started installing the harness, then it got cold and dark out so the last bits will get installed tomorrow.

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So many steps and details to rebuilding a car and I seem to turn every step into a giant task.
I am declaring myself an expert at reading, understanding and repinning wire harness diagrams, I found one instance in this harness where mazda uses the same colored wire twice, one of the rear speaker wires in green with silver dashes on it, the same color and patterned wire is used for the rear brake lights first time I ever found the same wire twice in a harness that doesn't have the same source.

To any lucky bastards that live where cars don't rust, corrode or rot, it's worth doing a car build unless their is a war on speeding and mods. For the test of us die hard idiots driving the car is worth everything but the effort required costs more.
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Curious- Did you weld in a whole new floor pan?
Ive done floor pans before in an 89 Mustang, but only the right and left sides under the driver.
No, those are the original floors, the only rust on the car when I got it was at the top of the rear strut towers, the DX comes with metal caps that sit on top of the strut mounts, they rusted and it spread to the top of the towers so I welded in two rear strut towers.
For the floor from firewall to trunk I pealed all the floor tar, sanded and scuffed them and coated everything with two coats of POR15 and two coats of armor coat, I did remove the metal circle and oval plugs that where glued into the floor and weld the holes shut.
The wheel wells and front of the car (from the front doors forward) was sand blasted, got 2 coats of por15, 2 coats of armor coat and 2 coats of brush on gravel guard, then primer, paint and clear...

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Also sand blasted and coated the control arms, cross members, tow hooks and subframe in por15 and armor coat, the spindles and calipers in por 15 and por 15 "red" caliper paint.

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The only things that haven't been coated on the car are the bottom of the floors (next summer), the trailing axle (???), the brake and fuel lines (will replace when needed), The gas tank (will replace when needed, possibly coat the replacement) and the rear inner bumper (when I paint the black trim on the bumper I will pull the inner bumper, sand blast it and coat it).

I rust treated the very bottom inside the doors and from the inside of the car at the base of the dash the inside at the bottom of the firewall and frame rail was rust treated before sealing the holes and installing the black rubber mat.
The rest of the frame rails (firewall to trunk), the frame above the trailing axle and the inside of the front frame and rad support was to be rust treated (frame rails after coating the floor) but there is a kind of wax that you spray in areas that cant be painted that coats as good or better than paint and prevents rust better than rust treatments, it doesn't drip or leak out like rust treatment, I found it online when rebuilding the floors on a back hoe, now I will have to find it again.

I am hopeful that this combined with storing it for the winter should prevent the car from rusting, but the liquid sodium brime they spay in the winter combined with the erratic winters we have had lately (It used to be below freezing temp all winter, now he get random days above zero), the sodium brine and water on the roads gets heated and evaporates into the air, making the air itself corrosive.
The stiffened front and rear springs, poly control arm bushings, AWR trailing links, new trailing axles, Addco sway bars and poly link kits with 1/2" thick bolts and reinforced control arms with reinforced ball joints and upgraded ball joint bolts, perfectly adjusted hand brake cables (as soon as the cable moves at the caliper the safety brakes engage, all movement at the hand brake lever is adjusted at the lever, so the hand brake can be set to engage before the handle clicks and locks) and custom rear trailing axle bar made from billet aluminum and machined to shape, serious over kill for what little the bar does. Would all make this car a blast to drive in the snow.

The aluminum trailing axle bar is under the steering wheel in this picture.
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I have used POR15 many times over the years- it’s great stuff. Last time I used it was on my 2010 Tundra, they had issues with seams on the box that caused areas near the mounting bolts to rust. That stuff stopped it in its tracks.
Anyways, what you did was a lot of work. Enjoy seeing the progress pictures.

They have been using that liquid sodium down here in WI, but from what I can tell it’s only currently being used on bridges and over-passes.

Do you plan on adding a sound deadening material? (Like kilmat)
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I have used POR15 many times over the years- it’s great stuff. Last time I used it was on my 2010 Tundra, they had issues with seams on the box that caused areas near the mounting bolts to rust. That stuff stopped it in its tracks.
Anyways, what you did was a lot of work. Enjoy seeing the progress pictures.

They have been using that liquid sodium down here in WI, but from what I can tell it’s only currently being used on bridges and over-passes.

Do you plan on adding a sound deadening material? (Like kilmat)
I think a quality 2 part epoxy paint might be better than por 15, I know cerakote would be better than por 15 but it was all I could afford.

Yes and no, I have a roll of very light weight 3/8" thick waterproof foam mat. Originally the plan was to put this on the floor and the carpet and carpet insulation over it but the insulation is done so I cut the rear carpet insulation off the carpet, used it as a template and cut the foam to match it, I will glue it to the carpet, do the same for the front. I might add a second layer in the front.
I have pulled the tar out of my mx6 gt's and just put the carpets back in, there was no difference in noise or vibration wit or without floor tar.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
After many hours of scrapping, scrubbing and pealing the carpet insulation and glue are off the back seat section of the carpet.
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The foam cut to match the insulation:
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Coated the carpet and flat side of the mat with spray on contact glue.

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Replaced and added staples to the plastic retaining clips that run along the drivers door (still have to do the passenger side).
There is a wear hole/split on the drivers left front side of the carpet caused by someone resting their foot in that spot, I will stitch it closed with nylon thread and sew a patch behind it.
The good news is there is very little factory insulation to crape off the front of the carpet. The bad news is there is no factory insulation to make a template for the front foam and it took an entire can of adhesive to glue the rear foam, so I will be using brush on adhesive in the front.

Brought a painted piece of the interior to the store to match the paint, when I got in the paint isle there is a sign that says painting on the shelves is considered vandalism. The paint cap color matched the piece but the paint in the can wasn't even close. The color itself isn't bad but against the worn factory blue parts it clashes and looks like shit, so back to the drawing board, stupid 225ml can cost over 25$ with tax.

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The whatever you want on the floor tray that sits in front of the shifter and the rear deck brake light cover clash less with the factory blue and was an acceptable alternative color to cover sun faded blue turning white bits of the interior.
This blue against the factory blue looks really bad.
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