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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
I’ve been working on cleaning up parts and evaluating their condition (making a list of needed parts)..

Got the subframe pulled apart and cleaned. I still have one control arm bolt that won’t come out, I’ll probably need to pull out the torch to heat it up. Going to wire wheel and repaint and install new control arms.

Got the rust stripped off the oil pan and a layer of primer- In the past I’ve had really good results with Rustoleum Rust Reformer as a primer..

Also did a first pass wash of the transmission- turned out decent but will get some more attention.

Here are a few before and after pictures..

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Those are the right bushings but that is the wrong price, 3$ per bushing is the most they should cost.
Part numbers:
Mazda original: B00146062
Mazda substitution: GA5R46062
Hyundai/Kia: B00146062 (cheapest)
Hyundai/Kia sub: KKY0146062 (cheapest)
Hyundai/Kia sub 2: MB00146062

Search the net by part number or call your local mazda, kia or Hyundai dealer.

Change all four on the shift rod.
 
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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Got the trans cleaned up and sprayed it with a thin coat of matching aluminum paint- turned out good. Also finished up the oil pan.

Question: Is it easier to install the engine and transmission as one? Or, install the transmission first, and then the engine? In the past when Ive done engine swaps / installs the transmission has always stayed in the car.

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I've done it together or separately with the engine first, then load the trans from the bottom. That rear cover on the trans is just held in with rtv of you wanted to pop it off and clean/ paint it too, stand the trans on the bell side and can zip it off pretty quick.
 

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If you decide to remove the transmission cover, be careful when removing it, there is a spout inside the cap that runs into the primary gear shaft assembly, if the cap isn't pulled straight off it can break off the spout that is used to move fluid through the gears.

I always install the engine and transmission together, it's much easier. Install the front transmission mount. Hook the engine on the crane closer to the cam gear end, you will need to lift the transmission cap over the rad support. then lift the engine from the passenger side so the transmission cap clears the drivers wheel well. Push it towards the drivers side so the pulleys clear the frame on the passenger side and lower it until the front mount is sitting in it's holes...
If your engine crane is good you can get the engine in position and set piston to lower the engine very slowly and while it's lowering on it's own maneuver the engine and trans into place. If the engine crane is twitchy a second person is required to operate the crane.
When installing the engine alone or with someone never grab any point of the cam gear side that would allow your hands to get pinned between the block and frame, the cam gear and engine mount bracket (with 2 studs in it) are the safest grab points.

With all the work and effort you are putting in this project, if you do pull the transmission cap, then you should keep going, pull the transmission apart, swap the shifter change rod seal, remove the differential and go have the differential shaft welded to the differential housing (major fail point on these transmissions), clean the gear assembly's with low odder varsol, spray it into the center passages of the gear shaft assemblys and move the synchros up and down, repeat until the varsol is coming out at all the gears and synchros. Once clean all the gears on the shafts will be loose (have a bit of play in them), this is the way they are supposed to be and means all the metal shavings and caked on oil have been cleaned out of the gears oil passages. The transmission will shift better and have much better gear oil flow.
With better lubrication and the diff shaft welded the transmission will be far more durable and reliable and should only be vulnerable to one wheel burnouts and to much torque on the 3rd gear assembly. Short of spending 1000$ for an upgraded 3gear assembly and installing a limited slip differential, this is the most and best you can do for these transmissions.
 
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On the subject of floor tar, I am rebuilding the floors on a 1968 charger R/T, all the 54 year old tar is loose, just sitting against the floor and rails. This car has never seen winter but ironically the tar that was installed at the factory to protect the floors is the very thing that rotted them out.
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Loose tar will ruin your car.

This car smells like a very old damp basement and dirty feet. I have been lucky wit the F2T's and never had any that smelled, while working in the Charger I was thinking of your biohazard probe and can totally relate to the effort and stress you went through to kill the smell for ever.
Even if 90% of the smell in this charger goes away it will still be unpleasant to drive with 10% of this smell.
But 17+ feet, 4000lbs weight and 54year old suspension does not equal fun to drive, even if it didn't smell like old people and feet.
 
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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Thanks for the feedback! - I’ll be putting the engine and trans in together. That allows me to assemble everything carefully outside the car.

Great info/recommendation on the transmission- I am going to think that over. I haven’t pulled anything apart yet..

Regarding the stink- after all the cleaning solution smells have worn off, there is still a bit of a stink, kind of like you, still 10% of the smell. I am going to keep repeating the cleaning process. I may also look into renting an ozone generator, from what I am reading it does a good job with stinks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Working on repainting the subframe. I wire wheeled the right side and front cross members and painted. The left side needs to be done (so you can see what the other pieces looked like). Having trouble getting one of the front control arm bolts removed. Need to dig out my oxy ace torch. Lastly you can see I did buy new control arms..
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