The car and parts are in my newly built garage that does not currently have electricity yet (coming in the fall..so not much I can do in there.
That being said over the winter I will be spending time cleaning up small parts/pieces (as you mention above) to get them prepared to install this spring..carry parts back and forth over to the “heated house garage“ to clean and refurbish, such as brackets, seats, interior trim, brake parts, etc..
Well that would be something going on with the car over the next few months.
In the meantime I’ve been reading nearly every thread related to F2T and 89 Probe/MX6 on this site and ProbeForum. I will be checking out theturboforums (edit- looking at your thread over there)..
This is what I mean by grow the box, I bet you can find more information googling "turbocharging my 4 cylinder" than the collective postings internet wide about the 88-92 MX6/626/Probe.
When I first joined MX6.com I read about the HKS intercooler pipe upgrade for the F2T, I searched and searched and for years and my intercooler pipes stayed factory, do you know whats better than the 2.25" HKS bolt on intercooler pipe kit. Any 2.5" intercooler kit pieced together out of any kind of pipe that doesn't leak or come apart.
Really the only member I can think of on this forum we can all learn something from is 99blkzx2, here is the thread he posted: Billet Compressor Wheel for T-bird/VJ11
The thread itself has no information useful to F2T modifiers, his car and what he did is useful to us all. He took a ford 2.0l non turbo charge 4cylinder got a junk yard F2T turbo and made everything custom and turbo charge his non turbo car.
And that is the same recipe we need to use for the F2T, but we already have oil and coolant supply/return fitting, low compression pistons, an oil cooler and a manifold a T3 flange can easily be welded to.
Yes that is the extent of advantages or head starts F2T's have over non turbo cars. The transmission and axles can handle lots of power and the factory rad set - up can handle engine heat when making lots of power, although the F2T does come with a larger transmission and axles and rad because it's turbo charged, for some makes and models n/a tune parts will be able to handle turbo charging and making lots of power and for some others factory turbo parts won't be able to handle much upgrading...
How to make more power and upgrade the F2T:
1- Get rid of these factory parts.
All intercooler and air piping, the intercooler, the turbo, turbine housing, downpipe and exhaust.
2- Pick a turbo that will deliver enough air efficiently to make you power goals without to much lag.
3- Gap your rings, custom install the turbo, custom make a downpipe, exhaust, custom intercooler and air pipes, custom install a larger intercooler, install wastegate, BOV or BPV, reliable accurate boost control.
4- Add fuel, pull timing.
5- Add water / meth injection.
And don't bother with my threads on the turbo forum, I joined to ask them question and learn stuff, never got complete answer to my question but still got some info and at times their suggestions helped towards finding a solution, when I wanted to find what I can coat the plastic steering wheel insert and wood shift know with that will never peel or wear, someone suggested caliper paint and said it's pretty durable and I always say (since I learned it) Cerakote if the best caliper paint so I mosied over to the Cerakote website to see if plastic and other stuff can be coated with it. I would never have though of Cerakote if no one said caliper paint.
You should look at, everyone should the Garrett G25-660 Turbo, can flow enough air for 660 BHP, with a .82 A/R housing will still probably boost at or below 3000rpm on a stock F2T block and it's size is no bigger than the factory VJ-11 turbo (area it takes up, not turbo wheels...).
So a turbo capable of making 600 hp, that doesn't require all the space between the block and rad with no room for the cooling fan and doesn't take 4300 rpm to spool. Wow.