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1996 2.5 mx6 won't start??Fuel pump??

8728 Views 18 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  TwoPedalWarrior
Hi Guys,
I hope you can help.
I drove my car to the local town yesterday with no trouble...parked the car and returned 30mins later....turned the key and the engine ran for like 10 seconds "very badly" and then cut out....i tried again and again and the engine would turn over and "try" to fire without actually sparking into life. I've checked that there is sparks coming from the plugs and there is ( the dizzy is only a couple years old ) so we can rule that out.
I have tried the GND + F/P bridge and the car still won't start.
Now how's this for observation...I've had the car 8 years but still cannot recall if you should be able to hear the fuel pump pressure up when turning the ignition key to 2nd position ( yes or No ).....Because there is no sound at all when i turn the key even when the GND + F/P is bridged.
One other thing that is happening is sometimes the SECURITY orange Key symbol is appearing on the dashboard after turning the engine over for a while...although maybe this is because the battery is getting very low on juice...........tried the spare car key at this point and getting the same results

So....any ideas what the problem could be....
Fuel Pump?

Thanks guys
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I am going to say ... fuel pump then immobiliser, but also check the ENG/INJ fuse (pink) and would also be worth re-seatign the other relays etc whilst there.

If all fuses are good and its sparking, then i would susspect a faulty pump, and i'm not 100% sure myself, but i do think you hear it prime when ignition set to on and before starting.

Hi Oddy,
Thanks for that...I just don't want to replace the fuel pump at some cost to find the problem is something else.....Would it be worth pulling the codes to see if there is anything there?? ( oh by the way I reset the ecu as a potential this would of wiped any old codes )
Do any of you observant MX6 drivers know if the fuel pump activates and primes before turning the ignition fully ???
Another question..

Can the fuel pump be accessed from a service hatch from inside the car? or is it tank off??

If its the same as the J-spec when you undo the screws holding the sender on the tank (under the back seat) you can remove the whole assembly from the tank.

The guy at the garage got the car was a sticky fuel pump....lifting the backseat out / unscrewing the inspection plate and tapping lightly free's the pump and it works...then when you switch off and on its ok but leave it for an hour and it sticks again.
I can see some wiring and a circular cap on the tank through the service hatch....Is this the top of the fuel pump assembly ??
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Firstly, the pump only works when the engine is turning over... hence you won't hear it when turning the key to ignition on.
The ECU gets the signals from the dizzy, and operates the circuit opening relay..

What you can see in the above pic is the fuel level sensor.. the pump is not accessible without first removing the tank..

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Thanks John,
UPDATE## The guy at the garage got the car working....he lightly tapped the top of the tank that is showed above and the motor sprung into life ( the GND / F/P were linked at the time ) so its now working OK...fingers crossed it stays that way..

I am searching around for a replacement fuel pump.....any ideas???
PS....Threw some cleaner in the tank....( may help the pump may not? ) If the pump gets stuck again I'll run the fuel down and replace then pump unit. other members...if your 6 gets these symptons as described in my first post...remove the back seat unscrew the three screws holding the inspection plate and hit lightly the tank....this may get you going again.( may help to bridge the GND & F/P in the diagnostic box whilst doing this......that way if the motor becomes free it will whirrr into life.. )

Regards to all.
Well I thought it would come to this.....the pump got stuck again last night so have now decided to fit a new pump....this weekends job ! Anyone done this before..any special tips? apart form. Don't smoke :)

Yes.. 3 tips..

1. wait until you are low on fuel.

2. pull the circuit opening relay and turn the engine over a bit (it may even start for a second) this will depressurise the fuel system..
(circuit opening relay is the bottom right one in the fusebox, as looking from the side of the engine bay)

3. Short FP & GND in the diags box, and pull the fuel line from the tank off the fuel filter..
join a length of pipe to the said fuel line, and stick it in a fuel can.. turn on the ignition, and the pump (if working) will pump the remaining fuel out of the tank.

ive put a pump in a tank on one, its not too bad but best to do it when its low on fuel as its a big old tank
thanks Guys,
The fitting went OK....It is a big tank when you get it off the car..
good tip with the draining of the fueltank John...thanks
only 2 jobs needed doing now...1st is to replace the rocker cover gasket ( rear ) been putting it off for a while but noticed the leak has gotten quite bad....looks like there is a lot of kit to remove before you can get at the gasket.
2nd is to find out why the 2nd VRIS does no activate...did the paper test and the paper on the 2nd vris near the throttle body does not " disappear".....could this have something to do with the o2 sensors needing replacing?...will replace the faulty o2 and test again...

Well done on the pump replacement :tup:

As for VRIS 2 .. its normally the solenoids that go, these are the two at the back of the inlet manifold with the wire plugs going into them. The left is VRIS 1 solenoid, the right ... ;) ,, to check the solenoid is working for VRIS2, a simple quick and easy check is to take the plug out of the vris1 solenoid and put it into no.2 (and no.2 into no.1 just so you dont geta code when testing) ... Normally VRIS1 is open at idle, so by moving the connection, no.2 should now be open at idle. If it does not open, its pretty much the solenoid thats goosed. Swap the connections back.
Removal of these solenoids is a real pain.. they tend to be cooked onto the mounting plate, you will probably end up snapping the platic clip part of the solenoid, but not to worry.. its broken anyway. Replacements from the scrapper... mx6, 626, mx3, probe.. also the FPR solenoid would suffice if thats all you can get hold of.
Thanks Oddy,
I'll give your suggestiion a go later.


I have a 96 MX-6, and I'm trying to find the access panel you guys are talking about. I can't find it anywhere. There are no screws under the back seat. Any ideas??? I really don't want to drop the tank.........
Answered via email...

explained the tank has to come off :(


The tank wasn't that bad to remove once the fuel had been removed. Just get it up on ramps and there is enough room underneath to get everything done.
Good luck

Does the 97 Mazda MX6 LS have an access panel under the seat to gain access to the fuel pump?
Does the 97 Mazda MX6 LS have an access panel under the seat to gain access to the fuel pump?
no you have to drop the tank
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