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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
I am still making no progress or so it seems. I never was able to determine if these turbo cars/Mazda engines have a low pressure cutoff switch built into the circuitry or the computer itself. I removed the yellow/red wire off of the sender itself C153 and then ran a resistor in-line with a alligator clipped wire to ground under the car to reflect some type of oil pressure. (Remember I am simply trying to get it to run so that I can pull/rebuild this oil/antifreeze leaker and then be able to break it in properly knowing that it will start at that point) No change when remote starting the car as the noid light still reflects 5 activations/flashes of the injector I randomly picked which matched it starting to run then just turning over as before. I had jumped the wires going to the 2 batches of injectors right at one injector wire in each of 2 sets (Yellow for 2 injectors and yellow/black for the other two with the jumper going to terminals 3E and 3C on the 10 pin "C229" plug at the computer aka ECU On the other side of the 4 injector plugs I attached a jumper on the white/red wire near an injector connection and attached the other end right at EFI relay #1 at C903. None of the jumpers made any difference in attempts to start it with the 5 noid flashes then crickets. However the 1 thing I do not understand involving the above is when I turn the key on and use a typical old school test light w/a bulb in it I then remove any of the 4 injector plugs and find I have power with key on to both sides of the plug both before and after I have attempted to start it. It does not matter if I turn the key completely off or not as far as having power in the injectors both before and after attempting to crank it over. The only other change is by my adding the old carbon style resistor to the oil pressure gauge circuit and grounding that end of it the fuel pump will stay on after attempting to crank it over. Based upon my lack of having anything to show for the above I guess I will have to reluctantly go through the pin/terminal checks you so thoroughly broke down for me. I have concerns I will do something wrong and short out something in the computer if I don't follow the steps to the letter, kinda like the kid playing the game Operation when the kid got the patients nose to light up/turn red when he wasn't careful enough and touched the gameboard, and the girl laughted at him "ha, ha, ha, Operation!" I had cleaned up that multi- wire flat ground attachment on the drivers side inner fender panel eons ago and found it to be actually clean/no apparent corrosion. Also double/triple checked the ground wire attached to the cylinder head right next to the timing gear on top. Replaced all the specific relays and complete fuse panel and circuit breaker boards up under the dash also.
Bottom line is the problem of running for 2 seconds or so then stopping has not changed whatsoever. Spark is fine, distributor is NOS and I have bought 4 computers so far, however all 4 were used. I sent the 1st two to SIA Electronics in Illinois and they did what they do only to advise that both had internal shorts and were thus junk. I will probably move about as fast as a sloth as I carefully do the pin tests you broke down earlier in the thread. I would have been much better off if the engine was blown up or something because then I would know what I was doing. Nothing fun about being in unfamilar territory....After having checked multiple grounds and adding more grounds for fun I would have to wonder what part of the wiring would make the computer/computers shut off. I guess it is a good thing you guys are forcing me to learn the finer nuances of "new car" wiring as I am used to 60's -70's stuff.
 
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