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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
1G GT: Budget Mod Guide for po' folk (PT 1 - MO POWA)

This may tie in a little with the parts interchange guide, but since it is more focused on performance than anything, and is a little more in depth, I thought I would give it it's own thread.

---LOOK D00D---

Disclaimer: I am not responsible if you modify your car and blow your engine, shatter your differential, crash into a guardrail, or rob a liquor store with a banana.

Perform all mods at your own risk. Everything I write is based upon my findings alone, and do not take my word for gospel. Your mileage may vary, or you may get none at all.

First things first: Be well acquainted with Ebay, and get yourself a Paypal account. Some parts can be found at low prices on Ebay, and this will help you find them, and keep you from PMing me and asking "HeY I SERCHed 4 a coen filtr turbo for my 625GT bUt I caNt fEiend it". If you do this, I will flame you.

Second things second: Do a compression check. It's probably not a good idea for you to go cranking up the boost when your compression numbers read 132 98 97 135. Do you know what those numbers would mean? No? Use the nifty search function on the forum toolbar to find out. If you do not do this, I will flame you.

Okay, so you've proved you have an IQ higher than 4 by sucessfully navigating Ebay, and your compression numbers are A-OK, let's get crackalackin dogg.

Or I will flame you.

---Budget Modification Guide---

We all want to go fast, right? Well, there's an old saying: "Speed costs money, how fast do you want to spend?". This is true. Speed DOES costs money. But, with a little ingenuity, patience, and creativity, you can vastly cut down the amount of money you spend. You will not find any information regarding tubular manifolds, standalones, FE3s, ball-bearing turbos, flux capacitors or any other wonderful items beyond the reach of a small budget. In fact, the most expensive item listed would be the exhaust system, totalling up somewhere in the neighborhood of 450.00. So, let's begin there.

Not exactly a "cheapie" modification. Even the most inexpensive route will run you a couple hundred in parts. But, there are some alternatives to the $600.00 systems previously offered by companies. Your first option is to assemble a system out of individual mandrel bends, and off the shelf parts. This can save you a lot, especially if you can weld, but may be a pain. You'll have to track down all of the correct flanges, bends, a flex pipe, catalytic converter (unless you are a polluter, then Captain Planet will kick your ass, green mullet style), and muffler. If you decide to go this route, the bends required will be three 90's, and five 45's. Don't ask me details on assembling the system beyond this, as I haven't done it. The second, and most convenient option is to order a tubing kit from VRSEXHAUST.COM.

It comes with all required bends, and flanges needed to assemble the tubing portion of your exhaust system. Pick out a high flow cat, muffler, and flex pipe, weld it up, and you're done. The kit runs in the neighborhood of $250.00. Don't forget, it doesn't include the muffler, cat, or flex pipe. If you're on a real tight budget, you can get by with a straight piece of pipe, and a cheap-o Ebay muffler.

I made the mistake of heading down my local "speed" shop to pick up an adapter plate and cone filter. I paid 35.00 for the adapter plate, and another 40.00 for a K&N conical. You can find the adapter plate and filter sold as a pair on ebay for around 20.00, shipped to your door [Tip, search Ebay for "MX6 filter adapter"].

I've switched to a generic brand cone filter recently, and can't feel a "butt dyno" difference between the generic, and the brand name K&N. You can use a ten dollar piece of dryer duct to rig up a ghetto fab-o-lous ram-air, but I noticed no difference when I added mine.

--Boost controller--
Here we go, the real good stuff. This mod will yield more horsepower per dollar spent than any other. You have a few options here. The "best" type would be an electronic unit, i.e., Greddy Profec. They allow fine tuning of boost in the cabin, and are remarkable at keeping constant boost. But, this is the BUDGET MOD GUIDE, so we don't care about these. Ball and spring boost controllers are probably the next best option. They can be found on Ebay for anywhere from 7.99 to 89.99, plus the price of shipping. I'm using the cheapest one I could find, which was near the 7.99 end of the spectrum. I absolutely love it. It holds boost until the shift point, and is consistant within ~1psi through the entire gear range.

It looks like this one, but it's blue. Blue = more horsepower

You want cheaper? Head down Home Depot, pick yourself up a small brass valve, and thread it onto a brass tee. Congratulations, you've made yourself a boost controller for around five dollars. The downside to this bleed style boost controller, is that they are often inconsistant. You may get a huge spike before boost settles, and you may end up with a large difference in boost level between lower and higher gears where more load is produced. You want something even cheaper? Head to Wal-Mart, look in the aquarium supply area and find yourself a little brass valve like pictured below. Two dollar bleeder valve.

It looks like THIS

DO NOT TURN UP YOUR BOOST WITHOUT A BOOST GAUGE. Also, make sure you hook the damn thing up correctly, or you will end up posting the 1,934th thread titled "BOOST GAUGE DOESN'T WORK RIGHT HELP ME", and I will flame you.

--EPROM chip--
There are now several options availiable, as far as chips. Several members of the site sell them, they're all over ebay (actualEPROM chips, specifically for the MX6, not SUPER 100HP JUICE CHIPs). I'll go ahead and recommend, I have nothing but pleasant things to say about my experience with the product I purchased. I only mention this here because it's part of the upgrade path, and without it, you're pretty much limited to intake, exhaust, and 12psi of boost. Here's a budget tip: I took my ECU with the chip and socket to a couple computer repair places. They all wanted between 150.00-300.00 to solder it in. I then tried a VCR repair shop and paid 40.00.

Here you go, a free mod, all it takes is your time, and possible sacrifice of luxuries you may enjoy. The AC and PS systems are fairly heavy. You can toss these if you so desire, but be prepared to panic when making U-Turns/Paralell parking. On the plus side, my girlfriend refuses to drive my car now. Your passenger seat is hefty, get rid of it. Cruise control is for lazy people. If you don't have a passenger seat, you don't need back seats. I listen to my engine, not the stereo, I no longer have one, or the speakers to go with it. Now that the obvious things are gone, you're going to have to get creative. I've removed my glovebox, the factory amp under the seat, center console, carpet, "extra" metal in doors, [please don't mention any parts designed for safety (Hey, write your own guide then, Safety McSafepants)], various brackets under the hood, spare tire, jack, and the dead hookers that were in the trunk. All of this was worth an average of 2-3 tenths in the 1/8th mile

We've reached a stopping point here. With all of the previous items mentioned installed on your healthy, non-leaking car, you should be making a decent amount of power. You're no longer limited to 12psi of boost, but you probably won't want to go any higher than 16psi on the stock turbocharger. Everything after this point will revolve around making your stock turbo a bit more efficient, and adding the required fuel.

2,750 Posts

--T-Bird Stage 1-- [ Or look here: The Ultimate T Bird Hybrid "How To"/ What do I need to make a T Bird Hybrid? - ]
If you're not afraid to remove your turbo, tear it apart, ship it out, be without a car for a couple weeks, put it back together, then put it back on, then you could have yourself the coveted "Alter Ego T-Bird Stage 1" at a sufficiently lower cost than what it sells for online. First, find yourself a T-Bird compressor housing and wheel. It comes on the 87-88 Turbocoupes equipped with the IHI turbocharger.

This is the car you are looking for. The one you actually find will probably not look this nice, and the trunk may contain pornography.

Wrecking yards are a first choice, they can be had for as little as 10.00. They sell often on for between 80.00 and 100.00, which is understandable, given the pain in the butt that these things can be to remove. Now, find yourself a rebuild kit. Check Ebay, I purchased one there for 95.00 shipped to my door. Alright, got everything? Good. Remove your turbo, and take it apart. No, take it apart carefully, put down the torch. Alright. Box up your turbine/shaft/compressor wheel, and ship/drive them to your nearest facility which is capable of balancing these items. I recommend Turbo City in Orange, CA. They charge 35.00 for a balance/bead blast of these items. Follow the handy dandy turbo rebuild FAQ on MX6.COM to assemble, and presto, Stage 1 Hybrid. You'll need an adapter plate for the compressor side to get this thing hooked up, so take it by your local back alley muffler shop, have them pick out an appropriate flange and short piece of pipe and weld it together for you. Re-install your turbo. Now, cut your wastegate line in two and go drive the car really, really hard. Just kidding, don't do that.

You need fuel now! Keep reading!

--Fuel Pump--
The only advice I can give you here is to shop around. The 255lph may be overkill, but if you feel that you may need it in the future, go ahead and get it now.

Otherwise, a 190lph will do just fine.

--5th injector--
You'll need a cold-start injector found on any old volvo, bmw, vw, whatever. Look for them mounted in the intake manifold, they'll usually have a blue top.

Just like this one

By the
way, you should be looking in the wrecking yard, not in your grandmother's garage, she'll need this item to keep her 1982 Volvo Wagon running to get back and forth from bingo. If you can't find one in the wrecking yard, have no local wrecking yard, or are a lazy bastard who sits around all day playing C0uNt3R5triEK because you are a virgin with no social skills or whatever, look on the classified section of They pop up occasionally, and sell for around 20.00 shipped. Alright, nooooow, go to your local auto parts store, and ask for a Hobbes Pressure Switch. Hobbes, as in the cartoon tiger accompanying Calvin, Pressure as in what I'm constantly under, Switch as in whatever just get the damn thing. You'll also need a brass barb that will thread onto the switch, and some vacuum line, a vacuum tee, a brass tee the appropriate size to match your existing fuel line post filter and your 5th injector's fuel inlet, and some extra fuel line from your tee to the injector.. All of these items should be well under 70.00. I will post a diagram when I find the one I drew on a napkin a few days ago, then lost.

I couldn't find the napkin diagram, so I used a highly advanced CGI program to do this one. This will be easy to follow, unless you are dumber than a box of hair.

Your switch will close at 10psi, powering the injector and adding fuel into your intake tract. Primitive and crude, but it works very well. Well enough to support

18psi on my Stage 1 hybrid with all of the other above modifications, and running pump gas.

If you've followed all of the above, you're probably pretty quick by now. These modifications have netted me 82mph trap speeds in the 1/8th mile. Traction and

God willing, you'll probably see an easy 13 second 1/4th mile time at sea level, and you didn't spend too much to do it. People will laugh at your cost effective modifications, but hopefully they will be people with slower cars than you, so that you can smoke them, and laugh back. If you have any questions or corrections, or bags of money you'd like to give away, please PM me.


ps krma plz
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