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Discussion Starter #1
Why is my shifter loose and feel very disconnected?

Is this normal? What can I do to fix this?

Can this be damaging to my car?



Taken and editedfrom a previous post:

THE SYMPTOMS: It will start out with a loose feeling shifter that has a lot of play and wiggles even while in gear. This will eventually cause internal damage to the transaxle if igored. (I got my car with bad bushings and it lasted 6 months before it got stuck in gear and about 4 months before the first problems. If you have bad shifter bushings check your manual, crawl under your car and order and replace them. At a minimum replace the four on the change control rod. I replaced the boots and ball seats in the shifter as well.

If you being to have tranny problems like this: 3rd not going in at first, but no grinding... relocating or floating gears, for example sqeaky noises in 5th or reverse relocating it self this might be your problem.

THE CAUSE: One cause is mileage and wear and tear but what seems to be the MAIN catalyst is the fact that I had driven it (and previous owner too) for a long time with bad shifter bushings. I Believe this caused the premature problems. IF YOU HAVE A LOOSE SHIFTER REPLACE ALL BUSHINGS AND BALL SEATS IMMEDIATLEY IN THE SHIFTER AND LINKAGE RODS. DO NOT SLAM GEARS LIKE THIS! DRIVE SOFTLY! When you have no shifter bushings the internal shift gate takes a abeathing with every movement of the shifter, until eventually, the gates bolts work themselves loose. Then if you're unlucky something will get jammed up.

THE INTERNAL PROBLEM: Inside at the end of the internal change control rod (checkyour manuals) there is an internal shiftgate bolted down on the tranny case by like 3 small bolts. It keeps your H pattern in check. Except of course when its only being held on by 1 bolt. The other two worked their way loose (I'll tell you how in a sec) and basically it was like trying to find a needle in a haystack when shifting. Luckily the bolts were cought by my magnet. anyways the change mechanism got hung up between two shift rods kinda and was completley out of the shift pattern. Basically, by trying to pull the stick out of first i was also trying to engage 4th at the same time kinda. Its hard to explain but it was STUCK.

TO FIX:You'll have to remove the transaxle and open it up. I reccomend fixing the problem with bolt sealent and also rebuilding with a rebuild kit of some type, might as well while your in there. So if you wanna fix it go ahead, other wise buy a new tranny or atleast take yours out and take it to a pro.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Sloppy Shifting Part Two

Here is a drawing I stole :E from SleepCounter. See the H pattern bolted into that area? Well, Just imagine what happens if that thing wasn't bolted down!
 

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Panther37 said:
Part Numbers for bushings:
Ford:
2 sets of 2: E7GZ-7A133-A (7335) $6-$8 USD / set
1: E92Z-7L259-A <-- I never used this $10-$15 USD
Mazda
2 sets of 2: B001-46-062 $6-$8 USD / set
1: GJ21-46-041 <-- I never used this $10-$15 USD
Shift boot @ bottom of shifter: GJ25-46-090 $4-$8 USD
Also see:
http://www.mx6.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=61060
http://www.mx6.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=63904
http://www.mx6.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=485942
It should be noted that some of those part numbers are Ford part numbers, here is a picture with Mazda part numbers:

 

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Shop manual diagram and part numbers for shifter bushings

Here is a picture from the shop manual of the bushings you'll need for your shift linkage, part numbers from Mazda, and location of said bushings:



4-B0010-46-062
1-GJ21-46-041

There really isnt much to changing these bushings. All you need are a few box wrenches, from memory 12mm. The bushings themselves are nylon and require no maintenance, so you just op the old ones out and put the new in. You might get stock on the pin/bolt underneath the shifter itself. It is held on by a nut on the threaded end, and by appearance would slide right out after you take the nut off-this isnt the case. The bolt itself is actually threaded through the control rod itself on one side, the nut side. You must also unthread the pin. The other side is blank and once you unthread from the threaded side, it'll slide right out. If you're confused, you'll see what I mean when you do it. You wonder "why isnt this pin sliding out?" then remember and say "oh, NOW I get it!"


The larger rubber bushing located at the transaxle is a different story. You shouldnt/probably don't need to change this bushing. I changed mine for piece of mind. The only way that I could see this bushing needing to be changed is if you live in an area with rough climate ie: dry and hot which would cause dry rot, or cold and damp and cause corrosion, snow, salt etc etc.

This bushing will come out with the aid of a few swear words. Push the guide pin out first as this will allow the bushing to compress inside of the control rod. When you reinstal, think the same way. If you push the guide pin in first, the rubber won't easily compress into the control rod, making you bust out more four letter words.

I greased the bushing and installed it in the control rod, then greased the guide pin and put it in the bushing. Much easier, way less 4 letter words.

Install everything, hope and pray that the grinding problem you had isnt the shiftgate....which is an entirely different aminal-yes, I spelled it wrong on purpose:lol:
 

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shifter rejuvenation -- repost per mod req

Just bought 'em from Mazda dealer (Kramer Mazda in Calgary). The bushings (4) were $3.44 CDN each (about $2.25 US).

Mazda part number B001-46-062

The dealer had 'em in stock, by the way.

I also replaced the boot at the bottom of the shifter (change lever, Mazda calls it) that keeps all the road gunge out of the pivot. P/N was GJ25-46-090 cost $5.40 CDN.

I also replaced the bolts that go through the bushings (they're different, front one a little longer) but both cost $3.07 CDN P/Ns B001-46-134 and B001-46-133.

The "other" rod that runs parallel to the shifter (change control rod, Mazda calls it) has a rubber bushing at the front end where it fits over a stud in the transaxle. Bushing is GJ21-46-041 and costs $4.24 CDN.

This should be replaced as well as it keeps your shifter positioned the correct distance from engine/transaxle.

All those parts (4 plastic bushings, 1 rubber boot, 1 rubber bushing and 2 bolts) came 2 a total of $29.54 CDN -- around $20 US.

If you're doing any hard shifting, you might wanna invest that kind of time and money -- could save you a lot more time and money in replacing synchros later

Toughest part of the job is getting all the console stuff out of the way in the interior.
 
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