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27,927 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
1st gen PROJECT: Refurbishing Your Axles

Disclaimer: This is NO SUBSTITUTE for new FACTORY AXLES or quality aftermarket new or reburbished axles. If you have ANY type of clicking, you probably want to buy new axles rather than restore your CV boots and pack with new grease or do a full rebuild with new bearings and cups.

When you open your axles, you want to look for obvious signs of stress or distortion of the metal casings and or bearing housings or bearings themselves.

You want to look for gouges in the bearings/housings as well as discoloration which could indicate heat warpage before proceeding with a rebuild.

Tools needed:
32mm socket (for the wheel nut nut) and an impact wrench, or a long breaker bar and a few friends, but an impact wrench is the better option of the two.
10mm socket for the splash guard nuts.
17mm socket (for the two strut bolts) and the brake caliper housing.
Twist ties to hang the brake caliper/housing out of the way
14mm socket for the balljoint bolt.
Needle nose pliers for the cotter pin on the tie rod
14mm socket for the tie-rod nut.
Tie rod sepration tool.
Snap ring pliers.
Two cotter pins.
CV boot repair kits- Go with genuine OE repair kits.

Universal repair kits are also available. However, they are only a few dollars cheaper, are cheaper quality/construction and don't carry a warranty. Oh and the ties for the boots themselves suck and won't hold tension very well.

I bought mine from Kragen as OE replacements.
Mcquay Norris 661733- Outer for the MT $17.99 ea x2
Mcquay Norris 662930- Inner for the MT $13.99 ea x2

Remove hub nut, brake housing (hang with twist ties) remove the tie rod, ball joint nut, sway bar bracket.

The axle itself should come out with a few even, straight tugs. Only do one axle at a time, and when you remove each axle, use a long dowel to secure the spider gear on the inside.

The drivers side axle is the axle with a spring clip, the passenger side doesnt have a clip, rather it is held in place by the small bracket/bearing and 4 bolts.

Yuck, ugly contaminated boots:sigh:

27,927 Posts
Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)

You want to have your new boots available first (obviously)
Each boot comes with a spring clip (you only need one anyways, but it's always good to have more) and enough grease to do each boot. I went ahead and bought another tube of grease for $4.00 to suppliment the packages of grease that I got with the boots.

Cut all of the boot clips off and cut eh old boots with a pair of dykes.

The outside of each axle comes off by using a straight edge screwdriver to GENTLY pry the large spring clip out (up near the clutch on top of the 6 bearings in the picture)

Be careful not to distort these large clips, as they arent very thick and easily distort

Large spring clips removed on both sides

6 bearings per housing (don't lose any of them)

27,927 Posts
Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)

Ahh, new clean bearings.

Worthless junk:flipa:

Axles removed and the cleaning process begins.

I used common degreaser in a spray can, kept moving the axles around in circles untill all the greas from the bottom came out (the outside portions of the axles cannot be removed without being pressed back in, or possibly bought as a whole part rather than rebuilt parts) which is why I needed to keep turning until all of the grease was out.

Follow up with some warm water and an air attachment to blow out any remaining grease trapped inside. Use some brake parts cleaner and an air hose to remove any water remaining, also to get any residual grease/dirt and follow up with an air hose.

Next you're going to want to clamp the inside end into a vice to allow you to work evenly. Notice the section of grease that I wpied away has a small square section sticking out (pay attention to this for later)

Remove spring clip with snap ring pliers.

Now you want to put both CV boots on

Here is the small square that I said to "pay attention to" I am pointing at it. Notice the line on the CV boot (inner and outer/bottom and top) are lined up with that square looking down at it.

Here is why:


Each U needs to go one opposite of each square piece. There arent too many positions when you account for splines, one notch off either way and you can plainly tell that it is off.

Now that you have your boots on, it's time to put on the outside bearing placement holder. As you can see in the picture, the holder has two different pitches. The downward angle pitch needs to go towards the transaxle side as in the picture.

Now put your snap rins back on, and finish packing the inside housing (closest to the vice, the transaxle side, the ones that won't come out) put the cv boot on and follow up with a CV clamp provided with the boot.

For the outside section....................................................^
You'll need to slide the bearing placement holder over the inside knuckle. Each bearing goes into each hole. You'll have to hold all of the bearings in place with your hand, while you gently slide the outside bearing cup (which should allready be prepared and packed with grease) over all of the bearings. The outside bearing cup has guide slots which each bearing will slide into. Each slot will hold each bearing in place inside the knuckle. Follow up with the large snap ring, and install CV boot with CV clamp.

If you look at the outside cup in the picture, you can see the bearing guides I was referring to.

And FINALLY, the finshed product:


Premium Member
1,770 Posts
As a small note: this is a how to replace the CV boots, not a rebuild. Rebuild include replacing the cages and the bearings.

Good work but we need to put the images local on the site not on cardomain.

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