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Discussion Starter #1
I've been planning on building a new engine for the wagon, the old one is just a bit too old and weary for the task; the compression pressures are bit uneven and so forth.

Here is the project engine which I today picked up from storage:


Not exactly in mint condition, it has over 330k km on it (200k miles), but then again it won't tempt me to keep any of the old stuff for sure :D I will fit it on the stand after I have removed the flywheel and bellhouse plate, also there is a snapped bolt in one of the holes.

Jumping a bit ahead of schedule, I recently sourced a crank for R2, or a 2.2l diesel engine based on the FE block. The benefit is they are always forged (DOHC forgies are rare and F2 forged cranks don't exist) and also the oil galleries are drilled the same way as in the DOHC crank.

Here's how it looks:



The biggest problem is the flywheel end. FE crank has six flywheel bolts, but an RF crank has eight. I'm tempted to get a custom aluminum flywheel, that would allow me to use 60-2 missing teeth trigger wheel setup by using embedded steel screws in the flywheel (to make the balancing more simple, the two "missing teeth" screws would be of stainless steel.)

The oil gear is also different to the FE oil pump, and is heat fitted in place, so force is needed to remove it. Also, the FE oil gear locks into place cy flats, so it evidently needs a trip to the machinist.

However, the next step is to disassemble the engine, clean and measure parts, and get them machined where necessary. I will be taking my time with this build, I would hate to rush it.

Now, I would just need the bulk buy parts :)

DAMN do I hope the rod deal comes through....
 

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looks great karri, always nice to get another fe3.
well if your lucky like me there could be a forged crank in that engine you just got. as far at the flywheel, I can get you an aluminum 8-bolt flywheel made for around $400 plus shipping. I think you already saw the one I got made for my kia crank. Another option is the 89-93 b2600 flywheel, I think there is about an 80% chance that it will work, but I haven't got one on hand to verify. I am still trying to find one, still can't find one at a local parts store or junkyard. good luck with it.

Now, I would just need the bulk buy parts :)

DAMN do I hope the rod deal comes through....
Me Too!! I'm praying....
 

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The biggest problem is the flywheel end. FE crank has six flywheel bolts, but an RF crank has eight. I'm tempted to get a custom aluminum flywheel
I would look at that as an opportunity to have a more secure stronger flywheel/crank interface! getting a nice one made up has its advantages for sure. esp removable and replaceable friction surfaces if the build is for the long haul. i have no solution when my f2t flywheel goes bye bye.

that would allow me to use 60-2 missing teeth trigger wheel setup by using embedded steel screws in the flywheel (to make the balancing more simple, the two "missing teeth" screws would be of stainless steel.)
thats a smart idea! :) also, if the crank is made from cromoly you could have the teeth machined in and balance it conventionally.

heres a guy that did a 36-1 on his saab by machine. dont panic, it was done with a radiused cutter and the engine uses an imbalanced fly which is taken care of by this :



cant wait to see the future of this project :)

fred.
 

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i was telling him he could probably just use the kia sportage flywheel, since it already has the trigger wheel with 2 teeth missing. He also has a g-type trans and the kia flywheel is 225mm with an 8 bolt pattern.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks guys for the input, really appreciate it :) I've actually began to think about sourcing an H-box for this, it'd be great if I could get one from Central Europe... Freight would be less, and also the e-spec has an oil cooler, which probably would come in handy :)
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Stupid photobucket login is on maintenance, can't upload new photos. I got the engine stripped, ready to be placed on the engine stand soonish, then it will be entirely disassembled and the real fun begins. The flywheel was pretty rusted, as was the front of the engine. The back of the engine was pretty well oiled though.

Also, no H-box this time. This is an engine build, not a gearbox build. I'll just take it easy and if/when the box grenades, I will go looking for a Mazdaspeed 3 gearbox...

Here be the pics!

The flywheel looks pretty rusty! It would be okay with a bit of treatment, but it's not going back on this engine...


So does the block too, but the rust is superficial.


Sure enough, it does look like a Titanic salvage job, but a bit of brush and a chemical treatment should do wonders.


At least this side is well protected against the decay! Also, the oil cooler is the six ribs deep type, not at all a bad thing.


Here's where I called it a day. The engine's mostly stripped off it's exterior, next step is to bolt it on the engine stand and start with the internals. That will be a much more delicate job than the outside...
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Turns out I didn't have the bolts I needed to get the engine on the stand so this weekend's pretty much done for, so I cleaned the parts a bit instead.

The flywheel mentioned in the post above, I did clean it because it is needed while making the custom wheel; I'll still stick to old setup, even if it puts severe limits to output... I'll look into it after I get the the engine done. My budget wouldn't hold doing both the engine and gearbox at the same time.


Anyway, here's the flywheel after acid treatment:



The brownish tint was picked up after treatment, I shouldäve sprayed it with protective oil but since it going to be handled at the machine shop, I didn't want to. Anyway, the acid does a pretty awesome job. It's phosphoric acid based, so it should leave a phosphate film that will protect it a little bit. The friction surface is spoltchy, probably has foreign particles a lot in it, etching is merciless with those.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I asked around a bit about the hydrogen embrittlement issue, the stuff should have inhibitors against it. Anyway, it didn't stay long in the stuff, so I don't think it'lll be a great problem in any case.

it's been slow, last weekend got pretty much ruined because I neglected to find out if I had the right bolts to mount the engine on the engine stand, and this week's been far too busy at the work to do much for the engine. However, at work, I can work on CERTAIN aspects on the car; these are done on coffee breaks:




More than a pretty picture, it's actually an IGES file from which the machinist can make a CNC program out of to machine the actual item.
 

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any reason why you wont design a flywheel from scratch to take a tilton multi plate or such? if you design it modularly you could have a removable ring gear such that it can be used on any transmission. just a thought. (if you are going to the extremes of a CNC flywheel, why not go hard out :) )

fred.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Trust me, I'd really like a ceramic twin plate pull-type clutch, but I don't want to mess with power train at this point. I'll get into it eventually, and when I do, I'll get a new flywheel matching the clutch I choose to like. It's a bit expensive way, but hey, at least the old flywheel makes a nice (and heavy and expensive) designer wall clock :)
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Finally got the lump bolted on the stand, M14x1.5...90 bolts are mighty expensive, about 2$ a piece! It's still funny how heavy the engine felt ten years ago but not at all anymore. I got water pump, valve cover, cams, HLA's and oil filter removed, and got the sump drained. Rather plenty of water in there! Instead of cracking the headbolts open, I actually got the socket split. Must try again tomorrow with better tools!


Anyway, here's some pics.


Here's how the stand mounting plate is on. the engine is a bit top heavy with the head on in the stand, but not dangerously so.


Camwheel cover removed but water pump still in place.


Speaking of which, here it is. That's not coffee in it. Good thing this is a complete rebuild and not a brief engine condition check up.


The ten years old oil inside the engine was rather nasty stuff. It looked like the engine was taking a crap, eww...


FE5A cams, with IN and EX on top like in some show piece. Cams seem to be pretty much okay.


A Very Special Service Tool for extracting the HLA's. Also comes with a handy LED torch.


High-tech HLA holder tray, to keep the HLA's in order. They all get squishy after few pushes, so I've got some HLA cleaning technique to practice. Some of them look really bad on this photo, but they're just covered in dirty oil. Actually they all have almost mirror like top.


Head sans cams and HLA's.


The show stopper for tonight.
 

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another good way to pull the hla's out is a squirt of oil on top and use another lifter upside down on top to pull it out with the suction of the oil
 

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another good way to pull the hla's out is a squirt of oil on top and use another lifter upside down on top to pull it out with the suction of the oil
Nice idea fraud :)

I was going to suggest a good "magnet on a stick" thats how i pulled all of mine. A sucker cup will also work well.
 

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lookin good! You got a lot of cleaning to do... man, I hate that part..lol
I have a similar half inch socket. I removed the head lots of time and luckily I haven't broke it yet (knock on wood) but its a snap-on, so it would be warrantied anyway.
fe5a! your lucky! nice cams.
why didn't you just use your trans bolts to mount it to the engine stand or is your engine still in the car?
well good luck with it, I wanna see some more pics when it comes all the way apart:tup:
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I got the motor open tonight, the only bolt that was REALLY tight on was the first one, the rest were normal. The head might be warped, but that's really the least of my problems right now;



This is.


Anyone for sleeves bulk buy... I have too much effort and money put into it, I'm not going to get stuck with little details like a bad block.
 

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She'll be right mate! It'll buff out ;-)

:-( you might find that it's not all that deep.

sleeves would be sweet though.

stroker will have a part number for us soon hopefully :)

fred.
 

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man that sucks, did someone leave the plugs out? that thing really was in the bottom of a lake. You can try to clean it and hone it, it might not be as bad as it looks. But if it is, then a .020 overbore should clean it up and leave enough meat left. If I ever have to overbore mine, i would only do .020, anymore an I would scrap the block or give it to an NA guy. how the crank and stuff?
good luck with it
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Crank was fine, I'll get them (FE and R2) to a machinist soonish to get the R2 to fit. Piston #1 had some signs of slight seizing, but I really can't care less. Cams are perfect. Head wasn't looking that hot either, but nothing much to worry about. The valves are probably done for and the guides too, but I was going to replace those anyway.


Not very pretty! Almost everything is going to be replaced here though, so no big issues here..



Nothing flashy in the bottom. Cast crank and no braces.


Taking the crank gear off wasn't as bad job as I had thought, a wooden brush handle jammed between the gear and the sheath did half of the job and a 3 feet torque wrench the rest.


The oil pump was black with grime before a healthy dose of degreaser. CRC Bräkleen is the sh!t!


Here's the crank coming off, the oil squirters should be visible in the near side of the cylinders.


And this was the showstopper for today, I hope not for good :( Those two cylinders are now soaked with molybden sulphide penetration oil, and tomorrow they'll get a bit of acid treatment. Hopefully the damage is uniform and superficial.

I tested the HLA's too. 3 of them were good, rest were like sponge.

Never thought it would be a quick job but the deal with the cylinders really bummed me :( Crank, rods and pistons are all going to go, and the head was going to receive a full rebuild too, why the most damaged part had to be the one I didn't plan to do much anything with :mad:
 
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