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5,550 Posts
Frequently asked general Gen 2 Qs

Wazup>>> Edit Edit

Edit by PaulG: Here's a link to the 96 workshop manual, it's about 150 MB:

Another good pdf:

Edit by PaulG: Here's a link to the Electrical Manual for the 96, includes heating/ac section:
It's the file labelled 626,MX6_electrical_manual_96.rar

It looks like some of the links above are broken, so try these:
Manuals from many countries:

MX6: Collision guide and wsm

MX6/626: A whole bunch of stuff for the 626/mx6 and beyond has a 40 day free trial of a rar file extractor called winrar so you can extract the pdf.

806 Posts
Oil in Spark Plug Wells? (2.5L V6)

Note: This is not complete, but I think this is what Jorge is really looking for in this thread
"Hey, I pulled my spark plug wires out and some of them have oil on the wires and in the plug reservoirs. What is wrong here?"

Answer: Your valve cover gasket/s need to be replaced. If it is only the front gasket, then you might buy some time by sopping out the oil with a rag and screwdriver and tightening the cover down a little more. Be very careful doing this as the torque rating on the bolts is very low and easy to snap the bolts. It is inevitable though that the gasket must be replaced.
Potential Parts List:
  • Front Gasket replacement: ratchet and socket set, screw driver, new VCG (valve cover gasket), and some O2 safe gasket sealant
  • Rear Valve Cover Gasket: swear jar, ratchet and socket set, screw driver, new VCG, intake head gasket, O2 safe gasket sealant and possibly a throttle body gasket. This is a good time to install a phenolic spacer in place of the head gasket if you would like. A system to identify the various vacuum lines for re-installation is helpful also, such as stick tags with good notes.
  • Front and Rear gaskets are easily bought at most Ford dealerships for ~ $20 a piece. Just get gaskets for the same year Probe GT. There seem to be more Ford dealerships around than Mazda that's why I suggest Ford.
  • Throttle bottle gasket can be bought the same way for ~$10

3,092 Posts
IL-96 said:
Q: Why does my car pop out of gear (MTX) ?

worn shift fork, worn detent balls and/or springs, linkage wear/misadjustment...

if you have a q but not an a, start a new thread...
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Reactions: Ashley Hill

78 Posts
engine compadibilty?

Q: how close are the mx6 and probe engines. are they identical or what?
A: They are identical.. and further more the drive line also is the same..

Premium Member
3,053 Posts
General 2g MX6 facts

Ok I thought I'd post some details about the 2g mx6, to clear a few things up.

There are 3 specs of the 2g mx6:

J spec:

This was available only in Japan/Asia to my knowledge.
Release Date: late 1991
Engines: klze 2.5 v6 ltr engine 200hp, or 2 litre kfze v6 160hp.
4WS available
NB: The Klze engine was a j spec only engine, other markets did not receive it.

E spec:

This was available in Europe, Australasia and most other markets
Release Date: late 1991
Engines: kl03 2.5ltr v6 164hp,
4WS available.

A spec:

This was available only in the North American market.
Release Date: 1993
Engines: kl03 2.5ltr v6 164 hp or 2 ltr I4 FS03 118hp
Models: LS and RS. LS having the v6 engine and the RS having the I4 engine.

NB: As mentioned above the 2g mx6 was initially released in Japanese, Asian and Australasia markets in Late 91. Not like in North America where it was released in 93. Therefore you can get 2g parts which are dated from
91 or 92. You were also able to get the 2g mx6 with 4WS (four wheel steering) in these markets. This option was not available in the North American market.

If you have any questions or info, please feel free to add them.

Year, month Frame
1992, january GEEB, GE5B
1994, june GEES, GE5S, GE5B

Body type Coupe
Drive FF
Transmission AT4 speed (EC-AT)
Displacement, cc 2496
Frame E-GE5B-CHB
Price of new car, thousands yen (Tokyo area) 2658 (~$22100)


Exterior dimensions (LxWxH), mm 4610 x 1750 x 1310
Interior dimensions (LxWxH), mm 1660 x 1390 x 1100
Wheel base, mm 2610
Treads (F/R), mm 1500 / 1500
Ground clearance, mm 155
Curb vehicle weight, kg 1240
Gross vehicle weight, kg
Seating capacity, persons 4
Doors number 2
Min.turning radius, m 4.7
Fuel tank capacity, l 58

Displacement, cc 2496
Engine model KL-ZE
Max.power (Net), kw(PS)/rpm 200 ps (147.10 kw) / 6500 rpm
Max.torque(Net), N*m(kg*m)/rpm 22.8 kg*m (223.59 N*m) / 5500 rpm
Power density 6.2
Engine type Water cooling V type 6 cylinder DOHC24 valve
Engine information
Fuel system EGI (electrically controlled gasoline injection system)
Turbocharger No
Fuel type Unleaded premium gasoline
LEV system (Low emission vehicle) No
Compression ratio 10
Bore, mm 84.5
Stroke, mm 74.2
Final gear ratio
Fuel consumption at 10-15 modes, l/100km 11.7
Fuel consumption at 60 km/h, l/100km

Power steering Yes
Tires size, front 205/55r15 87v
Tires size rear 205/55r15 87v
Braking system, front Ventilated disk
Braking system, rear Disk
Suspension system, front McPherson type
Suspension system, rear Strut type

2,009 Posts
Trouble Codes OBD-I MECS Controlled Diagnostics. Overseas models may need a LED diode as they have no CEL. On an OBD-II , the data link adaptor you will need is J1962/16 Pin adapter. You will need a scanner that comes with this.

For a VERY detailed list of the following codes plus OBD-II codes for 96+ models look here

02 'NE2' crankshaft position sensor
03 'G' camshaft position sensor
04 'NE1' camshaft/crankshaft position sensor
05 Knock sensor
08 Volume Air Flow sensor (VAF)
09 Coolant temperature sensor (CTS)
10 Intake air temperature sensor (IAT)
12 Throttle position sensor (TPS)
14 Barometric pressure sensor
15 LHO2S inactivation error
16 Exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) system
17 LHO2S inversion error
23 RHO2S inactivation error
24 RHO2S inversion error
25 Fuel pressure regulator control solenoid
26 Canister purge solenoid
28 EGR vacuum solenoid
29 EGR vent solenoid
34 Idle air control (IAC) solenoid
41 VRIS #1 solenoid
46 VRIS #2 solenoid
67 LFAN relay (1993 only)
69 ECTF sensor (1993 only)

5,550 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
How to check for error codes on the G2

Locate and open the "Diagnostic" box under the hood. It's between the battery and the fender. Below is shown a representation of the pins inside the Diagnostic box:
The pins labelled "TEN" (which stands for "Test ENgine" by the way) and GND (ground) are the pins of interest. Make sure the ignition is OFF and use a paperclip to jumper the TEN and GND pins together.

E and J spec cars dont have a CE light .. conect a LED+Resistor or 12V-LED to the B+ terminal, and the free resistor - end to the FEN terminal. this will flash in place of the cel..

Turn on the ignition (do not start the car) and watch the CEL. After about 4-seconds, it will begin to flash any codes that may be stored. If there are no codes stored, the CEL will not flash (it will go out.)

Malfunction codes are generally 2-digit affairs although Mazda decided to get tricky. They include 2-digit codes that involve '0' (zero) as a digit. Code 02 is one example. Code 10 is another.
The codes are broken into a 10s digit and a 1s digit. The 10s digit is flashed first, followed by the 1s digit. The digits are distinguished by the length of time they flash the CEL. 10s digits flash the CEL on for 1.2-sec while 1s digits flash the CEL for 0.4-sec. Digits that are '0' (zero) flash the CEL exactly zero times.

Note how the presumably single-digit code '3' flashes the CEL for short-pulses only. This indicates the 10s digit is zero for this code. The image below illustrates what the CEL would do if, say, a code 24 were the only code present. Note that it's "dark" (off) for 4-seconds, then the code flashes (long flashes are 10s digits, short flashes are 1s digits). Since this is the only code, there is a 4-second pause between flashing sequences.

If you find yourself saying "Uh-oh"...
Notice in the above drawing that the TEN pin is located right next to the B+ pin... If you screw up and connect the B+ pin to the GND pin, you'll cause a short circuit when the ignition is switched on. You'll probably notice that the instrument cluster gauges don't work any more, along with other systems of the car. If you've done this, check the METER fuse in the fuse panel inside the car. Once you've replaced it, your gauges should operate as normal.

Interpreting the Codes:
There are quite a few codes. The following table shows the codes for the 1994 Probe GT (and a couple for the 1993) and what they mean. For FS (4-cyl) MECS-equipped engine codes, go here:
Code Circuit Diagnosed Memorized?
02 'NE2' crankshaft position sensor Yes
03 'G' camshaft position sensor Yes
04 'NE1' camshaft/crankshaft position sensor yes
05 Knock sensor Yes
08 Volume Air Flow sensor (VAF) Yes
09 Coolant temperature sensor (CTS) Yes
10 Intake air temperature sensor (IAT) Yes
12 Throttle position sensor (TPS) Yes
14 Barometric pressure sensor Yes
15 LHO2S inactivation error Yes
16 Exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) system Yes
17 LHO2S inversion error Yes
23 RHO2S inactivation error Yes
24 RHO2S inversion error Yes
25 Fuel pressure regulator control solenoid Yes
26 Canister purge solenoid No
28 EGR vacuum solenoid No
29 EGR vent solenoid No
34 Idle air control (IAC) solenoid No
41 VRIS #1 solenoid No
46 VRIS #2 solenoid No
67 LFAN relay (1993 only) No
69 ECTF sensor (1993 only) Yes

5,550 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
How to set idle,TPS and timing on the V6

You need the following tools over and above usual spanners/sockets and alike.

1. set of feeler gauges (including .006"(.15mm) & .020"(.50mm))

2. Timing lamp

3. multimeter (volts and ohms)

4. 2.5mm Allen key wrench

1. Make sure you have the proper amount of coolant (8 quarts) in your system.

Start the car, let it warm up, and have the radiator caps loosened. Once the small overflow reservoir fills up, cap it. Watch the filler neck by the pass. Side of the engine, squeeze the hoses and burp all bubbles out of the system. Try to just keep the water level up in the neck so it can't suck air back in, and be careful the stuff gets hot! Squeeze the hose till the fluid is all the way to the top (ready to spill out) and cap it tightly. Once you're content all air bubbles are out, move onto the next step.

Q. Why worry about coolant?
A. Bubbles in the IAC are bad and make idle fluctuate in a slow, annoying way.

2. Set the timing

Insert a jumper pin between the TEN and GND pins.

Hook up the timing light to the battery for power and hook up the signal to the #1 wire location marked on the distributor cap.

Loosen the two 12 mm bolts on the disty so it can rotate (not too loose).

Now, with the jumper pin inserted, start the car, if it dies, open the idle air screw on the top of the throttle body a couple turns.

Q. Idle air screw?
A. If you don’t know the idle air screw is shown in the picture below.

Make sure the car is warmed up, NO accessories or fans or anything is on, and if the idle is like 1500 then close the idle air screw a little, it should be open 2-3 full turns.

Now, move the power steering hoses and wires out of the way, point the flashing timing light at the crank pulley, and watch the small tab on it illuminate and reference it's location to the small timing marks on the plastic tab that sticks out over it.

Q.I can’t see it A. It can be a bit trying but it is there look down from left to right @ the main drive pulley

Rotate the ditsy until the notch on the crank pulley is exactly in line with the "10" on the plastic timing mark indicator (this is 10 degrees before top dead center).

Now adjust the idle air screw until your idle sits right at 650 rpms.

Check the timing mark again, adjust if required and reset the idle air screw to 650rpm (depending on how far out your settings are you may have to do this yet again)

Now when it's at 10 deg., and the revs are 650 +or- tighten the disty down carefully so as not to move it. Turn off the car, remove the jumper pin.

Throttle and tps setting..

Now, take your voltmeter. Set it to ohms. Touch the two terminals on the idle air bypass control valve.

Q. what/ware is the bypass valve?
A. black cylindrical “thing” on bottom of throttle body)

The resistance should be 10.2-12.3 ohms. If so, then that is ok. If not replace.

NB: You may skip the bypass valve step and only check it if you still have problems after setting every thing else, as it is in a tricky spot requiring removal of air intake box for good access..

With the keys turned to off unplug the TPS.

With the voltmeter still on ohms (or continuity check mode), touch the two lowest pins with the terminals of the voltmeter. There should be continuity. If not, loosen the two screws holding it to the throttle body so you can just rotate it, and rotate until you get continuity. Now retighten.

Make sure that the stop screw that the linkage hits JUST barely touches it at closed throttle.(2.5mm Allen key wrench for it).

You will need some feeler gauges. (Q. what’s a feeler gauge? A. a set of metal strips made to specific widths used for setting gaps)

Next, take a .006"(.15mm) feeler gauge, and put it between the throttle stop screw and the throttle linkage (back/top of the TB).

Now with the .006" feeler gauge inserted, there should still be continuity, if not, rotate the TPS until there is.

Once you have achieved this remove the .006” and switch to a .020"(.50mm) feeler gauge.

Now there should not be continuity, if there is continuity redo the previous step until it is correct.

Plug the sensor back in, use the paper clip to jump the TEN and GND pins. Turn the key to the on position (don’t start just ignition/red lights)

Now take your voltmeter, and put the black lead on the neg. terminal of the battery, and tap into the yellow wire on the TPS (2nd wire down from top of TPS harness). I use a sewing pin and just push it into the wire.

The Voltage should be between .1 and 1.1 at closed throttle,

At wide open throttle it should be 3.6-4 volts (check by pressing gas pedal to ensure it opens fully). If these values are within these specs you are all set, if not replace the TPS

Now start the car, your idle will be perfect. :tup:

Premium Member
3,053 Posts
When checking the codes ..

Q: Can you explain in more detail how the codes are flashed out/displayed?
A: the LED will do the following..
Say you had 3 codes. Ie 15 24 9. ( just hypothetical example) it would do the following
- = a long flash
. = short flash
It would continullay repeat this:

- ..... --.... .........

It just keeps cycling through. So if you let it run through a few times you should be able to figure out how many codes you have and what they are
hope this helps

Q: is there a way to reset these error codes?
By using this instruction on my 95 MX-6 LS (ATX), I found 4 error codes: 9, 17, 23 and 24. But I'm not sure when did they happen. Is there a way to reset these error code to see if they happen again?

A: Disconnect the (-) negative terminal on the battery for a few minutes, by opening the door on the car, you will be triggering the cabin lights, This will drain all the remaining current/voltages from the electrical system , and thus blanking the ECUs memory

Q:I am going to assume this will not work on a 96-97 car... right?

A:That’s correct you will need a code reader form auto zone for that..

Premium Member
3,965 Posts
VRIS (Variable Resonance Induction System)

At the back of the intake manifold is two valves controlling two metal plates inside the intake manifold. When the valves open, a vacuum pulls the actuator open wich in turn opens the metal plates. These plates are set to open and close at the following engine rpm.

Engine Speed (RPM)| VRIS Plate 1| VRIS Plate 2



VRIS Actuators


5,550 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
good question..

As we have a transverse motor (mounted north south/across the engine bay)..When referring to any thing on the motor the right hand side is the side closest to the rear of the car ..
And then obviously the left would be the front.. :tup:

5,550 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Automatic Transaxle Drain and Refill

Normal maintenance and lubrication requirements do not require periodic automatic transaxle fluid changes. If major service, such as a clutch band, bearing, etc. is required, the transaxle will have to be removed for service. At this time the converter, cooler and cooler lines must be thoroughly flushed to remove any contamination.

When used after 30,000 miles under continuous or severe conditions, the transaxle and torque converter should be drained and refilled with MERCON® transaxle fluid.

Use 8.8L (9.3 qts.) of MERCON® transaxle fluid, when filling a dry transaxle and converter. Check the fluid level.

Procedures for partial drain and refill, due to in-vehicle service operation, are as follows:

1. Raise and support the vehicle.

2. Position the drain pan(s) under the transaxle.


3. Remove the drainplug located at the transaxle cradle opening.

4. Loosen the oil pan mounting bolts and drain the fluid.

5. Slowly loosen the pan mounting bolts, working from the front LH corner to the rear, allowing the pan to gradually drop and the oil to drain slowly.

6. When all the fluid has been drained, remove and thoroughly clean the pan. Discard the oil pan gasket.

7. Remove and discard the oil filter and oil filter O-ring.

DO NOT reuse or clean the filter. The filter element material will contaminate the transaxle.

8. Install a new oil filter and O-ring.

9. Place a new gasket on the oil pan, and install the pan. Tighten the oil pan mounting bolts to 8-10 N-m (71-88 lb-in).

10. Install a new drainplug copper washer. Tighten the drainplug to 40-50 N-m (30-36 lb-ft).

11. Check the fluid level.
12. Transaxle Fluid Level Check
14. Use the following procedure to check the transaxle fluid level:
1. Make sure the vehicle is on a level surface, apply the parking brake and block the drive wheels.
2. Run the engine to warm up the transaxle fluid.
3. While the engine is idling, shift the selector lever from PARK to LOW, then shift back to PARK, while stopping in every gear selection.
4.Pull out the dipstick and be sure that the transaxle level is between the LOW and FULL marks. Use the low temperature scale when the fluid is 20° C(68° F). Use the high temperature scale when the fluid temperature is 65° C(149° F). If necessary, add Motorcraft MERCON ® transaxle fluid, or equivalent.


5,550 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Transaxle Fluid Level Check

1.Park the vehicle on a level surface.

2.Clean the transaxle near the oil level plug to prevent transaxle fluid contamination.

3.Remove the oil level plug and washer.

4.Verify that the oil level is at or near the bottom of the oil level plug port.

5.If the oil level is low refer to "Adding Transaxle Fluid" below.

6.Replace the oil level plug using a new washer. Tighten the oil level plug to 40-58 N-m (29-43 lb-ft).

Draining Transaxle Fluid

1.Raise and support the vehicle.

2.Remove the transaxle drainplug and allow the transaxle fluid to drain into a suitable container.

3.Install the transaxle drainplug using a new washer and tighten the transaxle drainplug to 40-58 N-m (29-43 lb-ft).

Add transaxle fluid.

1.Place the vehicle on a level surface.

2.Clean the transaxle near the oil level plug to prevent transaxle fluid contamination.

3.Remove the oil level plug and washer.

4.Add the correct amount of specified transaxle fluid to the transaxle, until the fluid level reaches the lower edge of the oil level plug port.

5.Replace the oil level plug using a new washer. Tighten the oil level plug to 40-58 N-m (29-43 lb-ft).

5,550 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Lower Control Arm


The following illustration is an exploded view of the lower control arm and its related components.

1 Ball Joint Clamp
2 Stabilizer Control Link-to-Lower Control Arm
3 Ball
4 Rear Bushing
5 Lower Control
6 Front Bushing
7 Front Bushing Dynamic
8 Stabilizer Control

1. Raise and support the vehicle.

2. Remove the front wheels.

3. Remove the ball joint clamp bolt.

4. Remove the stabilizer control link-to-control arm nut.

5. Separate the ball joint stud from the steering knuckle.

6. Remove the two lower control arm rear bushing bolts.

7. Remove the lower control arm front bushing bolt.

8. Remove the lower control arm.


1. Position the lower control arm against the underbody of the vehicle.

2. Install the lower control arm rear bushing bolts. Tighten the lower control arm rear bushing bolts to 93-131 N-m (69-96 lb-ft).

3. Install the lower control arm front bushing bolt. Tighten the lower control arm front bushing bolt to 78-106 N-m (58-78 lb-ft).

4. Install the ball joint stud into the steering knuckle.

5. Install the ball joint clamp bolt. Tighten the ball joint clamp bolt to 34-57 N-m (25-42 lb-ft).

6. Install the stabilizer control link-to-lower control arm nut. Tighten the stabilizer control link-to-lower control arm nut to 36-54 N-m (27-40 lb-ft).

7. Install the front wheels. Tighten the wheel lug nuts to 88-118 N-m (65-87 lb-ft).

8. Lower the vehicle.

24 Posts
A little more on ball joints

I have found that it there is a much easier way to seperate the joint, and it is not destructive to joint.

When seperating the joint, after you have removed the bolt from the knuckle turn the wheel on the car inwards, in other words if its the right side turn the wheels left, and if its the left side, turn right.

Then just push down on the lower control arm, and the knuckle should just come off. Do the same thing when putting it back together.
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