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- the control for the power windows won't work right:

problem - plastic clip inside the master window switch breaks or bends. common solutions are creatively bent paperclips, or replacement (obviously)
 

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GregC98498 said:
i did a search, and everything i found was questioning the 4ws, rather than explaining what it is....

Q: What is 4ws and how does it work?


edit:
sorry if this has been asked 1 billion times :V
4WS is four wheel steering. It is actually a rear steering rack, it works in conjunction with the front steering rack and a hydraulic system with a 4ws ecu to help steer the car.

On the 2nd gen it wasnt available in america, only europe and asia/australia.

Below 60kph (or somewhere close to it) back wheels steer in the opposite direction to the front wheels. ie
/ /

\ \

Above that figure the back wheels steer the same way ie:

/ /

/ /

And before you ask no you can't modify a usa 2nd gen to fit 4ws unless you wont to spend an absolute fortune doing it.

hope this helps
 

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Alright another silly question. Does the lower control arm from the Ford Probe fit the Mx6? I've got a 93, so I'm assuming like a 93 Probe. I just don't know if they're structorally the same.

Thanks for the help!

-Mary
 

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Mx6girl93 said:
Alright another silly question. Does the lower control arm from the Ford Probe fit the Mx6? I've got a 93, so I'm assuming like a 93 Probe. I just don't know if they're structorally the same.

Thanks for the help!

-Mary
yeah they should be the same probe/mx6/i4/v6
 

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[email protected]

You may be crossing 1G's with 2G's a bit.

All 1G's came either 4cyl turbo or non. Except for a few late model 1G Probes that had the 3.0 Vulcan V-6.

2nd Gens came with either the 2.5 V-6 or the 2.0 four cyl. None were ever turbo'd from the factory.

Laters
Ryan
 

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Ticking Motor (Timing Belt Tensioner, pulley bearings, etc. NON HLA)


  • another tick, often confused with the common HLA tick, is the hydraulic timing belt tensioner arm. The tensioner wears to the point of no longer being able to provide enough steady pressure on the timing belt, and the ticking heard is the slack in the belt, combined with the arm of the tensioner beign forced in and out of it's assembly

Fix: replacement is the only known fix for this problem. Used units are not reccomended because of their short life (as low as 20,000 miles in some vehicles, to 80,000+ in others)
Prices range from 100-250.00 depending on source.

*note to author - i've pruned the thread of irrelevant info. Please feel free to "report post" if the irrelevant posts build up again. :tup: good info!

 

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Mazdafosho said:
ok but on this Automatic MX6 i might be buying on the automatic shifter there is a button and next to it it says hold but, also there is a place where you can put a "shift Key" can someone plzz explain that one
You're talking about the shifter lock? it's a place where you can put your ignition key. it makes it so that you can take the car out of park without having to apply the brake. it basically disables that safety feature for a moment in case you need to move the vehicle.
 

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2.5L Torque Specs (taken straight from the factory service manual)

Description - N/m - Lb/Ft - Lb/In

Oil Pan Drainplug - 29-41 - 22-30 - N/A

A/C and Generator Tensioner Lower Bolt - 19-25 - 14-18 - N/A

Crankshaft Damper Bolt - 157-166 - 116-122 - N/A

Timing Belt Cover Bolts - 8-10 - N/A - 71-88

A/C and Generator Tensioner Upper Bolt - 19-25 - 14-18 - N/A

Oil Dipstick Bolt - 8-10 - N/A - 71-88

Water Pump Pulley Bolts - 8-10 - N/A - 71-88

Auto Belt Tensioner Bolts - 19-25 - 14-18 - N/A

RH Engine Mount Nuts - 74-103 - 54-76 - N/A

RH Engine Mount Through Bolt - 67-93 - 50-68 - N/A

Water Pump Bolts - 19-25 - 14-18 - N/A

Oil Pan Bolts (large) - 19-25 - 14-18 - N/A

Oil Pan Bolts (small) - 8-10 - N/A - 71-88

Converter Inlet Pipe Nuts - 40-55 - 30-41 - N/A

Oil Pump Bolts - 19-25 - 14-18 - N/A

Power Steering Belt Tensioner Upper Bolt - 32-46 - 24-33 - N/A

Power Steering Pump Rear Bracket Bolt - 32-46 - 24-33 - N/A

Power Steering Belt Tensioner Lower Bolt - 19-25 - 14-18 - N/A

A/C Compressor Bracket-to-Engine Block Bolts - 38-51 - 28-38 - N/A

A/C Compressor-to-Bracket Bolts - 38-51 - 28-38 - N/A

Oil Strainer Bolts - 8-10 - N/A - 71-88

Oil Filter Body Bolts - 19-25 - 14-18 - N/A

Oil Cooler Shield Bolts - 8-10 - N/A - 71-88

Oil Pressure Switch - 12-17 - N/A - 104-156

Oil Cooler Nut - 25-34 - 19-25 - N/A
 

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Oil Baffle Bolts - 19-25 - 14-18 - N/A

Fuel Rail-to-Intake Manifold Bolts - 19-25 - 14-18 - N/A

Fuel Supply and Return Line Bracket Bolts - 8-10 - N/A - 71-88

Intake Manifold Nuts and Bolts - 19-25 - 14-18 - N/A

Cylinder Head Cover Bolts - 5-8 - N/A - 44-78

Camshaft Cap Bolts - 11-14 - 8-10 - N/A

Camshaft Pulley Lock Bolts - 123-140 - 90-103 - N/A

Exhaust Manifold Insulator Bolts - 8-10 - N/A - 71-88

Exhaust Manifold Nuts and Bolts - 19-25 - 14-18 - N/A

Cylinder Head Bolts - 23-26 - 17-19 - N/A

Flywheel Bolts - 61-67 - 45-49 - N/A

Pressure Plate Bolts - 18-26 - 14-19 - N/A

Flex Plate Bolts - 61-68 - 45-50 - N/A

Rear Engine Mount Nuts - 67-93 - 50-68 - N/A

Rear Engine Mount Through Bolt - 86-116 - 63-86 - N/A

Front Engine Mount Nuts - 74-102 - 55-75 - N/A

Front Engine Mount Through Bolt - 86-116 - 63-86 - N/A

LH Engine Mount Nuts - 75-104 - 55-77 - N/A

LH Engine Mount Through Bolt - 86-116 - 63-86 - N/A

RH Engine Mount Nuts - 74-103 - 55-77 - N/A

RH Engine Mount Through Bolt - 67-93 - 50-68 - N/A

Power Steering Pump Mounting Bolts - 31-46 - 23-34 - N/A

Extension Bar Nut (MTX) - 32-46 - 22-33 - N/A

Transaxle Shift Linkage Bolt (MTX) - 16-22 - 12-16 - N/A

Transaxle Cradle Nuts and Bolts (front mount) - 75-104 - 55-77 - N/A

Transaxle Cradle Nuts and Bolts (front and back) - 67-93 - 50-68- N/A

Transaxle Cradle Nuts and Bolts (vibration dampener) - 44-60 - 32-44 - N/A

Transverse (cross) Member Mounting Bolts - 94-126 - 69-93 - N/A
 

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Splash Shield Bolts - 8-10 - N/A - 71-88

Wheel Lug Nuts - 89-117 - 66-86 - N/A

Fuel Rail Supply Line - 25-34 - 18-25 - N/A

Radiator Hold-Down Bolts - 8-10 - N/A - 71-88

Engine-To-Transaxle Bolts - 68-99 - 50-73 - N/A

Cooling Fan Relay Bracket Bolts - 8-10 - N/A - 71-88

Fuel Filter Nuts - 8-10 - N/A - 71-88

Fuel Line Bracket Bolts - 8-10 - N/A - 71-88

Power Steering Hose Bracket-To-Power Steering Pump Bolt - 31-46 - 23-34 - N/A

Oil Jets - 3-4 - N/A - 27-43

Crankshaft Cap Bolts - 23-25 - 17-19 - N/A

Lower Cylinder Block Bolts - 19-22 - 14-16 - N/A

Connecting Rod Cap Bolts - 22-27 - 16-19 - N/A

Knock Sensor - 20-34 - 15-25 - N/A

Valley Cover Bolts - 8-10 - N/A - 71-88

Thermostat Housing Bolts - 19-25 - 14-18 - N/A

Water Pipe Bolt - 19-25 - 14-18 - N/A

Coolant Elbow Bolts - 19-25 - 14-18 - N/A

Seal Plate Bolts - 8-10 - N/A - 71-88

No.1 Idler Pulley Bolt - 34-52 - 25-38 - N/A

No.2 Idler Pulley Bolt - 37-52 - 27-38 - N/A

Auto Belt Tensioner Pulley Bolt - 37-44 - 27-33 - N/A

Engine Mounting Bracket Bolts - 43-61 - 32-45 - N/A

Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor Bolts - 8-10 - N/A - 71-88

Spark Plugs - 15-22 - 11-16 - N/A

Front Lifting Eye Bolt - 19-25 - 14-18 - N/A

Rear Lifting Eye Bolt - 38-51 - 28-38 - N/A

Distributor Bolts - 19-25 - 14-18 - N/A

A/C and Generator Belt Tensioner Bracket Bolts - 19-25 - 14-18 - N/A

Generator Bolts - 37-52 - 27-38 - N/A

Oil Pump Cover Bolts - 6-9 - N/A - 52-78
 
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I do not go with RockAuto.com they jacked my order up by not sending the right gasket and not even send me my distrib. cap.:damnmad:
Ruxing
 

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Just in case anyone thinks they are nuts they are not. There is also a FORD EEC IV connector in the 1994 4 cyl ATX with the DLC Mazda put there. There are no TENS pins in the DLC and codes have to be retrieved by jumping the STI in the EEC to the ground terminal of the battery.
I happen to have this version in Greece . I just found out the day before I left so havent had a chance to accurately retrieve them yet . Not so easy to read
Good Luck
PGP
P.S. I got this info from the Haynes book and some other person :wave:
 

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THREAD RE-OPENED FOR A FEW DAYS!

Its nice to keep these things updated so lets get those FAQs in!

**note** do NOT ask your own questions, unlerss you are posting an answer! thats what the technical forums are for.

**note** The thread will be monitored and pruned accordingly - its barely cohesive as is - we don't need a million "thank you" notes, or general questions(without answers posted) cluttering it up. Do your best to look over the thread and avoid repeat "faq"s

thanks!

-GC.
 

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-My Version of the wandering Idle Fix:

Do this before touching your TPS sensor or cleaning the IAC and you will save yourself a lot of time. I'm not trying to say the IAC is not the problem but I have never had that problem with any coolant type.

I have never cleaned the IAC but I have fixed this problem, It's not a clogged IAC it is air, those tiny coolant lines connected to the IAC are very difficult to get the air bubbles out of. I can tell you how I did it but remember I am using Evans coolant which is waterless and creates a zero pressure system, what does this mean? I can take off the radiator caps when the car is at its hottest and it will never blow up on me so I can do this when the car is hot, for you have to do this cold and not running. (I have performed this both ways with the same effect)

REMEMBER NEVER REMOVE YOUR RADIATOR CAP WHEN THE ENGINE IS HOT NO MATTER WHAT I HAVE DONE IN THE PAST, ALWAYS PERFORM THIS PROCEDURE WITH THE CAR COLD AND NOT RUNNING, OK, now:


First, remove the water neck radiator cap and insert a funnel (a plastic one which is big enough to seal the entire hole, the medium size blue one from schucks is what i used) make sure the other radiator cap is still on,then fill the funnel with coolant, grab the upper radiator hose and gently/slowly squeeze until you get a visible current in the funnel, squeeze, squeeze, about 20 times you should start noticing air bubbles burping out of the funnel. After a while the bubbles stop, replace the cap start the car. Hey would you look at that the idle is fixed.


If anyone has a better way to do this let me know.

This is the method in which the rep. at Evan's Cooling Systems uses either use a vacuum pump on the IAC lines to start the flow (small lines work best when they have a siphon first) but I do not have the pump so the method I described is what he told me to do. I had adjusted the TPS and Idle switch with no effect, I burped the system and it fixed the problem instantly.

Evan's Coolant is the best money I have ever spent on my car, look it up. The guys at Corksport recommended it to me for the ZE. I have been using it for a few years now and its wonderful. Be sure to get the NPG+ coolant if you want to get 300,000 miles+ out of it, the race (R) formula has to be changed like normal coolant.

-Front Control arm damper bushings:
Has everybody else consistently destroyed the Right hand side front control arm damper bushing on a 50,000 mile cycle. I have replaced this stupid thing 4 times now. If your car feels like its wandering on a turn when you are pressing the gas then check your front damper bushings, grab the wheel when it is jacked up and do the same procedure for checking the tie rod ends but observe the bushing where the control arm joins to the subframe, if the control arm moves where it joins to the subframe you need a new bushing.
If you need Ball Joints at the same time then this is a good time to do them, or just buy complete reman control arms from ebay.
 

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Everyone makes a big deal about those things, autozone has had them on their website for several years now. No password needed. Just go under repair info.

-Andrew
 

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Erm...that user name and password don't work :)
 

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here's another method of access.

1. click on link :http://www.powerlibrary.net/Remote/R...p?ID=meadville

2. enter the following as the code: pl249412345678

3. click on Auto Repair Reference Center in the middle of the page

4. and you're in! find your model, year, make etc...
 
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