This site is very well known on MX6.com. I have some printouts from Julian's old site which are 5+ years old. It's good to bring it up every once in a while for any newer members (or just anyone who has not stumbled on it yet).was looking for something not entirely related to this stuff for some project im thinking of to keep my mind off life, and found this little gem
seems to be a condensed quick referance guide for our cars with all those things you spend hours looking for on a forum, so it may help, or maybe its been posted before, ive never seen it untill now at any rate
Welcome to Probe - MX6 - The original Julian bradbury makeover site
ok you guys know so much why is it that i cant seem to find someone to reply to my issue. my ditsy on my [1995 mazda mx6 is out ] gone. bought hei from jegs wired it nothin happened think i fried it blaster 2 coil and every thing ,so why cant any ony give me the correct diagram for the 95 ls v6 dont know if its a spec or j spec yo need to get my baby running again bought it used so far all the diagrams i tried dont match color wise with the wiring yo look out for yo fellow mx6er
In the Malfunction Codes guide that I've seen in numerous places on this site has this:Throttle and tps setting..
Now, take your voltmeter. Set it to ohms. Touch the two terminals on the idle air bypass control valve.
Q. what/ware is the bypass valve?
A. black cylindrical “thing” on bottom of throttle body)
The resistance should be 10.2-12.3 ohms. If so, then that is ok. If not replace.
Dead or depressed clutch pedal
- Clutch flex line-Most commonly the line that feeds the clutch will break or come off. Technically the vehicle will be drivable, but is an extremely dumb choice seeing as the clutch is shared with the brakes. Inspect the line for any tears, if it’s connected or holes, if it’s even there. The line will need to be replaced. You can replace it with a stronger stainless steel aftermarket or a rubber oem one.
Regarding the dumb choice of driving the car with leaking clutch fluid: yes, it is dumb, but mainly because the clutch will not operate properly and will make changing gears while the engine is running difficult or impossible. However, losing the fluid serving the clutch via its lines or master cylinder or slave cylinder leak will not result in a loss of the fluid serving the brakes. The clutch and brake share the same fluid reservoir in the engine bay in our cars and (although it is extremely difficult to see unless low on fluid on one side or the other) there is a partition in the reservoir to prevent fluid starvation or air being ingested in one system should the other develop a leak. I only saw this partition when I bled my brakes and was seeing the fluid getting lower than normal (but of course, not empty!) in the reservoir.
On a sidenote, as we're in the problems and solutions section:
Bleeding clutch fluid.
When I replaced my slave cylinder I found it hard to bleed the clutch to make the pedal operate as well as I'd like (I got most of the air out, but some obviously lingered). This process was made easier by removing the appropriate engine cooling fan to get to the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder. I don't think I disconnected anything, just removed the mounting bolts and moved it up out of the way.
To get the rest of the air out, I splurged on a Powerbleeder from motiveproducts.com . I got the version with the appropriately sized fluid reservoir screw-on cap as I didn't think the basic "clamp on" style would seal very well (as it was the screw on type took some careful sealing regarding its gasket). After setting it up via the instructions and applying pressure with the hand pump I exercised the clutch pedal several times and got immediate and amazing results, clutch pedal was firmer than it ever was and took only seconds versus the previously painful 2-person bleeding adventures (helps to have a pretty girl in the passenger seat to operate the clutch). I don't often buy tools when a manual (and free) procedure will yield the same results, but this tool has paid for itself many times as now I can also bleed my brakes quicker than the traditional method and without annoying my wife to come out to the garage
Indeed , gravity bleeding saves a lot of time and effort.Silverbullet put it well, Powerbleeders are definitely worth the money. And don't drive with that line ruptured, obviously. For all of those that don't want to buy the powerbleeder or don't have the money for one, remember to gravity bleed the system whenever you replace the slave cylinder and/or the clutch mater cylinder. Once you have a new master cylinder and/or slave cylinder on and the hoses connected properly, leave the bleeder screw open on the slave cylinder until you see brake fluid coming out of the slave cylinder (since it's the furthest from the reservoir). After this, bleed the system like normal. Gravity bleeding definitely makes it less of a PITA than manually bleeding all of the air out of the system.