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Hey i have a 95 mx6 auto transmission- I want turbo on it- what do i need? what do i need to change? is this a good idea? what will happen? thanks
 

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OBD1 codes

Hi everyone,

I'm looking for a complete list of trouble codes for OBD-1. I have the codes in the haynes manual for a 93 Mazda MX-6 LS but was wondering how complete was this list.

Am I correct in assuming that this particular year and model has only 2-digit codes?

Any help would be great.

Aloha and mahalo,
lokahi
 

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stall??

daughter has a 93 mx6 2 liter.It stalls like you turned off the switch, intermitently. it was showing a 2 and 3 code. thought it was the ignitor so I did an hei mod, which works fine. runs strong and idles great.can start cold and run for an hour in town and never miss a beat. or start and go 1/2 mile and die 4 times. anybody got an idea?
 

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was looking for something not entirely related to this stuff for some project im thinking of to keep my mind off life, and found this little gem

seems to be a condensed quick referance guide for our cars with all those things you spend hours looking for on a forum, so it may help, or maybe its been posted before, ive never seen it untill now at any rate

Welcome to Probe - MX6 - The original Julian bradbury makeover site
 

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was looking for something not entirely related to this stuff for some project im thinking of to keep my mind off life, and found this little gem

seems to be a condensed quick referance guide for our cars with all those things you spend hours looking for on a forum, so it may help, or maybe its been posted before, ive never seen it untill now at any rate

Welcome to Probe - MX6 - The original Julian bradbury makeover site
This site is very well known on MX6.com. I have some printouts from Julian's old site which are 5+ years old. It's good to bring it up every once in a while for any newer members (or just anyone who has not stumbled on it yet).

If it has not already been done maybe we can get a sticky for that site somewhere.
 

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ok you guys know so much why is it that i cant seem to find someone to reply to my issue. my ditsy on my [1995 mazda mx6 is out ] gone. bought hei from jegs wired it nothin happened think i fried it blaster 2 coil and every thing ,so why cant any ony give me the correct diagram for the 95 ls v6 dont know if its a spec or j spec yo need to get my baby running again bought it used so far all the diagrams i tried dont match color wise with the wiring yo look out for yo fellow mx6er

have you tried searching at all :shrug: ,theres 19 pages when you search for HEI....maybe you should have just bought a new distributor from distributor king on ebay..less stress :)

heres the link to hei search i did for you on mx6.com
http://www.mx6.com/forums/search.php?searchid=1206900

if those 19 pages dont help

try these 2 links to hei search i did on probetalk for you..they got some pics..perhaps the probe colors match...:confused: but who knows :rolleyes:

HeI - ProbeTalk.com Forums

Need help...Pulled a plug wire...and now car wont start, it only cranks. - ProbeTalk.com Forums

never did the HEI ..all i ever did was go on ebay an click buy it now :tup:
 

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An edit for the "How to set idle,TPS and timing on the V6"

Throttle and tps setting..



Now, take your voltmeter. Set it to ohms. Touch the two terminals on the idle air bypass control valve.

Q. what/ware is the bypass valve?
A. black cylindrical “thing” on bottom of throttle body)

The resistance should be 10.2-12.3 ohms. If so, then that is ok. If not replace.
In the Malfunction Codes guide that I've seen in numerous places on this site has this:
Things To Check When Diagnosing:
3. Check the resistance of the solenoid. Typically it should be between 12-16 ohms at 20oC.

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/mx6-uk/malf/malfcode.htm#code25
 

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hey i have a 95 mx6 ls. anyways my car was running fine for 4 weeks straight then i tried starting one day and it died. i checked my battery, starter, wires, and alternator but they all came out good. it doesnt turn over. could i have a bad ground somewhere? or could my motor be locked cause it was also overheating from time to time? plzz help
 

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could be a ground but try to turn the engine over by hand using a socket & ratchet at the crank pulley.do you hear a click or clunk when trying to start it?
 

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i wanted to add a general thanks to all who took the time to provide all the good information. MX6.com is a very good community , best site i have had the privilege to be a part of.:tup: here are some links to a small bit of info i hope can be of help . hla noise help - http://www.mx6.com/forums/2g-mx6-general/241457-help-hla-noise.html heater control help -http://www.mx6.com/forums/2g-mx6-general/241502-solution-heater-controls-not-switching.html 94 I4 auto info -http://www.mx6.com/forums/2g-mx6-general/235886-setting-timing-diagnostic-mode-2g-i4-auto.html wiring diagram - http://www.mx6.com/forums/2g-mx6-general/235971-link-wiring-diagrams.html -(radio) http://www.mx6.com/forums/2g-mx6-general/235950-mx6-radio-wiring-diagram.html IAC -http://www.mx6.com/forums/2g-mx6-general/235642-another-small-tip.html
 

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your shifting problem might be your tps mine was causing it to pop out of gear in 3-4 gear and it would rev and pop back in gear replaced it and haven't had any problems
 

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Cold Morning P/S whine/foaming PS fluid in resivoir

Since cooler mornings have come up for some of us on the north-west of the continent, I had a morning P/S whine that was accompanied by foaming at the P/S resivoir.
Some have replaced the pump, and steering rack, but as in most cases where the thick P/S hose is by the strut mount, the spring clamps loose their spring and replacing those with threaded type hose clamps should solve the problem, eliminating a minor suction of air into the system and then into the power steering pump.
 

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Dead or depressed clutch pedal

  • Clutch flex line-Most commonly the line that feeds the clutch will break or come off. Technically the vehicle will be drivable, but is an extremely dumb choice seeing as the clutch is shared with the brakes. Inspect the line for any tears, if it’s connected or holes, if it’s even there. The line will need to be replaced. You can replace it with a stronger stainless steel aftermarket or a rubber oem one.


Regarding the dumb choice of driving the car with leaking clutch fluid: yes, it is dumb, but mainly because the clutch will not operate properly and will make changing gears while the engine is running difficult or impossible. However, losing the fluid serving the clutch via its lines or master cylinder or slave cylinder leak will not result in a loss of the fluid serving the brakes. The clutch and brake share the same fluid reservoir in the engine bay in our cars and (although it is extremely difficult to see unless low on fluid on one side or the other) there is a partition in the reservoir to prevent fluid starvation or air being ingested in one system should the other develop a leak. I only saw this partition when I bled my brakes and was seeing the fluid getting lower than normal (but of course, not empty!) in the reservoir.

On a sidenote, as we're in the problems and solutions section:

Bleeding clutch fluid.

When I replaced my slave cylinder I found it hard to bleed the clutch to make the pedal operate as well as I'd like (I got most of the air out, but some obviously lingered). This process was made easier by removing the appropriate engine cooling fan to get to the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder. I don't think I disconnected anything, just removed the mounting bolts and moved it up out of the way.

To get the rest of the air out, I splurged on a Powerbleeder from motiveproducts.com . I got the version with the appropriately sized fluid reservoir screw-on cap as I didn't think the basic "clamp on" style would seal very well (as it was the screw on type took some careful sealing regarding its gasket). After setting it up via the instructions and applying pressure with the hand pump I exercised the clutch pedal several times and got immediate and amazing results, clutch pedal was firmer than it ever was and took only seconds versus the previously painful 2-person bleeding adventures (helps to have a pretty girl in the passenger seat to operate the clutch). I don't often buy tools when a manual (and free) procedure will yield the same results, but this tool has paid for itself many times as now I can also bleed my brakes quicker than the traditional method and without annoying my wife to come out to the garage ;)
 

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Silverbullet put it well, Powerbleeders are definitely worth the money. And don't drive with that line ruptured, obviously. For all of those that don't want to buy the powerbleeder or don't have the money for one, remember to gravity bleed the system whenever you replace the slave cylinder and/or the clutch mater cylinder. Once you have a new master cylinder and/or slave cylinder on and the hoses connected properly, leave the bleeder screw open on the slave cylinder until you see brake fluid coming out of the slave cylinder (since it's the furthest from the reservoir). After this, bleed the system like normal. Gravity bleeding definitely makes it less of a PITA than manually bleeding all of the air out of the system.
 

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Silverbullet put it well, Powerbleeders are definitely worth the money. And don't drive with that line ruptured, obviously. For all of those that don't want to buy the powerbleeder or don't have the money for one, remember to gravity bleed the system whenever you replace the slave cylinder and/or the clutch mater cylinder. Once you have a new master cylinder and/or slave cylinder on and the hoses connected properly, leave the bleeder screw open on the slave cylinder until you see brake fluid coming out of the slave cylinder (since it's the furthest from the reservoir). After this, bleed the system like normal. Gravity bleeding definitely makes it less of a PITA than manually bleeding all of the air out of the system.
Indeed , gravity bleeding saves a lot of time and effort.
 
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