Mazda MX-6 Forum banner

21 - 31 of 31 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Hi, As I'm in England I can't expect the personnel touch! however I would appreciate any info. you could send me on the 2nd gen mx6 4ws system units, pinouts and their locations etc. Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
380 Posts
Anyone simply removed their 4WS somehow and saved weight and issues? I would probably remove it if there was a way.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,044 Posts
Anyone simply removed their 4WS somehow and saved weight and issues? I would probably remove it if there was a way.
There's no need to be a philistine. The advantages of 4WS outweigh the negatives. And removing it would upset the weight distribution of the vehicle ... which will cause the car to understeer like a hyeena!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
35 Posts
4WS for 1993 MX6 query

hi

The South African version of the MX6 dont have the 4WS.
Could this be purchased as a aftermarket product and then be installed.
If so, what would the cost be to buy the whole setup?
Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
'93 2.0L NZ mx8

4ws dash light used to sometimes be on and sometimes be off. the 4ws would work when light was off and not when on. wasnt too worried.

now the light went off for a whole day then when next tried to drive it (about 3 hours later) it required a lot more power to take off. i got out and the rear right wheel would not roll freely and it seemed like the handbrake was on or something. driving slowly the wheel turned but it randomly locked and wouldnt turn at all. it then went back to just resisting.
i left it for a day and when i next started it the dash light was on but it rolled freely in neutral and was just like a normal 2ws car. i drove it around the block a bit, turned it off then on again and the right rear wheel is playing up again.

i've been told it could be a sensor but i was wondering is there a short term solution so it will just drive as a 2ws car?

also any ideas on what would be the problem so that i can eventually fix it?

but yeah i just want to temporarily fix it so i can use the car. is it correct that i just need to pull a fuse from behind the rear brake light? and what would i be looking for?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
380 Posts
There's no need to be a philistine. The advantages of 4WS outweigh the negatives. And removing it would upset the weight distribution of the vehicle ... which will cause the car to understeer like a hyeena!
Lol like a hyeena. Late reply by myself here but the understeer comment is not really true unless you are pushing it hard, which 95% of the time I am not, and simply just driving in a straight line to work, at the speed limit :p Plus it's not much weight really.

It's kind of like the Eunos 800 2.3L SC engine, it's so great and blah blah but the blower on it can go, and when it does, good luck getting another, and if you do it won't be cheap. You could get the 2.5L engine in the 800 but that's just being a philistine right? Who wants a boring engine that can last 300,000kms+ and be easily serviceable when the SC can blow it's load anywhere after 100,000 and leave the engine useless because it actually requires the SC to work with miller cycle principle.

You get my drift, or understeer should I say.... lol I hope my 4WS lasts a while longer
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
132 Posts
Hi all,

Just tackled this repair on my 1990 626 Turbo (obviously with 4WS!).

I found the guide to be good, but there are a few variables that the average person will come across which will cause big problems.

Key data:
- Broken rod is 6mm bright steel, length (end to end TOTAL length) 120mm.
- Threads in the end of the broken rod are metric M6 x 1mm.
- Control box 'fluid' capacity is 0.9L of Dexron III
- If you get the new 'rod' adjustment out, no matter what you do when centering the rack the wheels wont be straight. Read below as to how I overcame this...
- A 4WS car with the rear rack 'doing nothing' handles like crap. Dont remove the 4WS unless your replacing the front rack with a 2WS model.

I'll start from the beginning of how I approached the repairs. PLEASE READ ALL THE WAY THROUGH BEFORE YOU ATTEMPT THEM! I dont necessarily go through in perfect order.

- Background:
Purchased the car about a year ago. It was very unloved by its previous owners and the 4WS was not working when I picked it up. Basically they disconnected the wiring loom in the boot so the rack went into failsafe.

Apon re-connecting the wiring loom the rack turned hard left and got stuck. No warning lights, just crabbed down the road horribly.

- The repairs:

  1. Jack the rear of the car up and put it on stands. Go reasonably high as you dont want to creep around on your back all the time.
  2. Now take off the stone shield from underneath the steering rack. Its dead obvious so I didnt take a picture.
  3. Get some drain pans out and put them underneath the control box cover of the rack. I had to use two, one big and one small as its very wide. Undo the allen keys (5.5mm heads) along the base of the control box cover. Now loosen the top ones and gently tap the cover. All going well it will separate and the oil will come out like the pic below. If like me you cant get a gasket because Mazda dont have any, just be careful and the gasket will survive just fine.
  4. OK now hopefully your greeted with something that looks like the picture below. The control rod has snapped on the breakaway point and is now hanging down below the main bevel gear. It used to go through a rose joint (Which has now become damaged, see below for more info). I marked each end of the rod with a reference 'dash' and then undid the locknuts and counted how many turns each was 'in' by. This is important and will save a lot of time later on.
  5. Now I took the sliding rose joint out from the main bevel gear (it just slides down and out) and tried to move it with my fingers. No good, the broken control rod had hit into the bronze guide and dented it which jammed it all up. To fix this I put the joint into a vice, carefully turned it so the 'hole' was parallel to the dented part of the guide. The joint instantly freed up, confirming that this was the problem. I then gently filed the bronze until the rose joint ran freely again. Heres a crappy pic of the rose joint for reference.
  6. Now you need to replace the broken rod. If you measure its length (two broken halves) it totals 120mm. Its 6mm diameter bright steel which I found impossible to source where I live. Closest I could get was imperial (no metric supply) and it was 3/8". Lucky I have a lathe so I cut and turned it down to suit. Once that was done you need to tap the threads in both ends. These are M6 x 1mm threads. I used a nice dienut I had handy.

  7. Now at this point I measured my new rod end to end. It was 119mm. Its almost impossible to accurately get 120mm with household tools. I was going to use the lathe but the pairing off tool broke so I cut it with a saw. This difference in length matters as our counting of the turns earlier relied on the fact the rod was 120mm long.
  8. I then re-fitted the rod back into the rack (counting the turns of each threaded end meticulously). You need to drop the main bevel gear to get it to fit (two 5.5mm allen headed bolts) which is a prick of a job as the new rod gets in the way. Before you do this, mark where the main bevel gear meshes with the 'input' bevel gear. You want it to go back in the same place. If you dont the rack will not centre properly. I also removed the rose joint on the Solenoid end (LHS of the picture) to make it a bit easier. Just fiddle around to you get it.
  9. I then checked that the rack was centered as previously mentioned in the guide. Basically you take out the two bolts (shown as the two holes in the below pic) which are directly beneath where the steering transfer shaft enters the rear steering rack. I put my steering wheel straight and had a look through the hole. Some idiot had left the locking pin in and turned the steering wheel previously so there was a massive scratch. Luckily you could still make out the centering hole. It was very marginally out so I removed the skid plates from where the steering shaft enters the rear rack. From there I pulled back (towards the rear of the car) the massive rubber boot. There is a C clamp there, undo the bolt and remove it completely (else it wont move) then push the steering shaft towards the front of the car. There is an expansion joint which slides back just in front of the massive rubber boot and then the steering shaft falls down. I then centered the rack and LEFT THE PIN IN. Dont reconnect the steering transfer shaft just yet.
  10. Now the important step! Make sure you adjusted you new control rod correctly. Make sure your car is securely chocked etc, dont want it landing on your head. Start the engine. Fluid wont pour out all over the ground as I thought it might (well it didnt on mine anyway). Since the rack is centered the wheels should remain forward and not move at all. Mine moved quite a bit to the left (oops). Now adjust the new control rod until the wheels point forward again. I did it evenly on both the solenoid and control valve ends. I basically turned it a bit with the engine running, got it roughly straight and then turned the motor off. If its right when you re-start the wheels wont move, and when you stop the wheels also dont move! DO NOT CENTER THE WHEELS BY TURNING THE MAIN STEERING SHAFT UNTIL THEY ARE STRAIGHT. This upsets the symmetry and you'll just break your control rod again.
  11. I then checked everything over twice, re-fitted the big control cover (gasket was still pristine) and re-filled the rack via the breather hole using a tom-thumb pump. The capacity is 0.9L as outlined in Mazda documentation.
  12. I then made sure the steering wheel was straight and put the main steering shaft back onto the rack. Put the boot back and then REMOVED the locking pin and re-started the engine. Wheels didnt move... thats good.
  13. Went for a quick test drive. All good and wasn't crabbing.
Mistakes I made:
- I actually put it all back together without checking the adjustment of my new control rod. Started the motor with it on the ground and it crabbed. Had to basically start again!
- Thought that the only adjustment to center the rack was using the centering pin. Not true, the control rod length pushes/pulls on the power steering control valve depending on its adjustment. It must be in the right spot when the rack is centered for it to work. You cant adjust out a mal-adjusted control rod.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Leaking Rear Steering Rack (4WS) Assistance

Hi, I have a 1992 V6 Manual 4WS MX-6 with just over 100,000km's It has recently developed a power steering fluid leak at one of the dust boots on the rear steering rack. Can these racks be re-cond/repaired ? I live in Sydney in case someone knows of a repairer. Any suggestions welcome as the car is much loved. Thanks in advance.

Edit added 4/Oct/2011 - I managed to locate a supplier of a re-conditioned rear rack for a KE - ACTIVE POWER STEERING in Sydney - They won't supply direct but have distributors. A local distributor quoted me approx A$750 for the rack only and approx. A$400.00 labour to replace the rack and get it all aligned. My Local MAZDA dealer quoted $700-800 labour to do the same saying there's complexity in the alignment. I might even do myself if not too involved as I've replaced a front rack before.

Edit Added 22/Dec/2011 - FYI, rear rack removed and replaced DIY. Somewhat involved job as it required lowering the rear cross-member to get rack out and back in - not hard just involved. Did a whole bunch of pre-removal front-rear alignment to ensure that rear wheels were perfectly centred before starting. Once up on stands, basically I ensured that I set up the steering wheel such that the rear rack was centred (centering mark was viewable and centred) - need to use a torch and mirror to see into the little hole - I then marked the position of the steering wheel with masking tape on both the steering wheel and steering column cover. The rear rack was installed with the centering screw installed - so perfectly centred to the front. It did require a full wheel alignment afterwards. Don't make the same mistake I made when disconnecting the rear rack from the steering shaft - remove the clamp bolt completely.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
28 Posts
Resurrectin dis thread from da dead. Watch me!

Hi guys,

I have a '92 Mazda MX6 with 4WS. Just got it 10 months ago, it's been great. 4WS still works (that is the reason I bought it. Being a 90s child, I've always wanted one!). Anyway, I seem to notice that the faster the car goes, the more my steering wheel goes to the right to compensate as if the steering goes off center beyond certain speed.

So if I am doing up to 40kph, the steering wheel is dead center and the car goes straight. Over 50kph, I need to turn the steering wheel to the right a little bit to compensate to keep the car going straight. It is over 50kph up to highways speeds (100kph) when things get truly mental. To keep it going straight, the steering wheel has to be turned a fair bit to the right so the right-spoke of the 3-spoke steering wheel is actually pointing at the 5 o'clock position rather than its traditional 3 o'clock.

Talk about some weird as shizznits! Help me from this black magic!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
picture of these Centering Screws please

Hi all,

I am having trouble trying to find someone to do 4WS alignment properly, for my gen2 1992 MX6, these days.
(I had it since new!)

Most shops asked if I have the 'locking pin' (like in the Honda Prelude?) which I never had.
Are they referring to these '2 screws' you guys are referring to above?

Can some post a picture of how these screws look like please in a gen2?
So these screws are already fixed on the car?

Or if there is a 'locking pin', can someone post a picture or tell me where I can buy/find one?

Thanks for the help in advance!

Cheers,
Gavin
 
21 - 31 of 31 Posts
Top