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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hi guys im new here. i have a probe gt with a klze swap im having some sort of cut out problem around mid 5000 rpm range. i thought it was a fuel cut out so i disconnected the vris solinoids to see if it would cut out at a higher point but still cuts out at the same place. so ive been thinking possibly ignition cut out so ive been adjusting the distributer and still nothing, how is the distributer supposed to sit anyways. but any input would be greatly appreciated.


as for mods i have a prm intake, probe addiction headers, 67 mm tb, 2.5" piping with a titanium canester, hi flow cat, klze eprom chip, mild port job on the exaust ports. those are the only thing that i have that would effect air to fuel ratio.
 

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You can "eyeball" the distributor to be in the middle of it's adjustment slots. Our cars have fixed timing as it's taken off the crank pulley signal, so you don't have to worry about getting it right.

Fuel cut happens at 7500rpm ONLY. There is no limiter based on VAF position. This has been proven by many of the early boosted people who ran with a stock VAF/ECU combination and a FMU for fuel increase.

It sounds to me like your knock sensor might be bad or just not plugged in. I believe it's plug is typically located next to/blow the throttle body (toward the front of the engine). Have you pulled your codes to see if anything unusual shows up? Maybe you could list all the codes here for us to help you diagnose the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
ok ill check it out and ill pull the codes, i was thinking it be more like a ignition cut out, but i didnt know the knock sensor could have that bad of an effect, but im going to try pulling it off and seeing thanks ill post results
 

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Removing the knock sensor requires a special tool. Most likely yours just isn't plugged in.

These cars don't have any ignition cut at all. But when your knock sensor is not present, the ECU will default to a very retarded (in regards to timing) ignition map.

Here's a link describing code 5 in the OBD-I ECU. Also, if you scroll up in the link, it describes how to pull your codes if you're not already aware.

1993-1995 Engine Controller Malfunction Codes
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
could my knock sensor still be acting up im gona check it out any ways, if not that then ill rent a timing gun and make sure my timing is right
 

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26 has to do with your EGR system. This will not affect your car hitting a cut at 5400'ish RPM.

Did you change your fuel pump, cap, rotor, plugs, etc when changing the engine? What plugs are you running and what are they gapped at?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
the wires are ngk and so are the plugs, i gapd them at .035 i belive the distributor is fairly new, i had it in my other klze purchased it and only ran it a few months, and i know its not a fuel cut so the pumps out, i disconnected the vris solinoids so there would be less air flow so if it was a fuel cut the cut of point would change but still cut out at the exact same place
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
im thinking i might have set the timing off a bit, on the crank sprocket what should i have gone by the grove on the sprocket or the yellow ink mark. what do you think fastest.
 

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the wires are ngk and so are the plugs, i gapd them at .035 i belive the distributor is fairly new, i had it in my other klze purchased it and only ran it a few months, and i know its not a fuel cut so the pumps out, i disconnected the vris solinoids so there would be less air flow so if it was a fuel cut the cut of point would change but still cut out at the exact same place
Which NGKs exactly do you have.

I've seen distributors fail after less than a year. In fact, one I had purchased failed in under a year which was good because it only had a 12 month warranty.

How do you *know* it's not your fuel pump. Don't rule things out that you don't want to try and diagnose. Underflow from the pump could cause you to lean out at the top.
im thinking i might have set the timing off a bit, on the crank sprocket what should i have gone by the grove on the sprocket or the yellow ink mark. what do you think fastest.
Timing being off just one tooth can give this type of symptom.

This is why you should always turn the crank 2 full turns and then confirm the cam timing is still correct. One tooth off at the crank gear will put the cam gears several teeth off (which is unmistakable when looking at the marks).

You should align the crank gear's notch to the arrow on the oil pump housing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
ngk R, if it was a fuel cut out by disconnecting the vris solinoids it whould have changed the cut out point a bit but its cutting out at the exact same place thats the only reason i belive it might not be the pump but i might be wrong im gona order a walbro 255 soon.
and i did align the crank gear's notch to the arrow on the oil pump housing and checked it so that means timing is right im going to disconnect the knock sensor and see if it will throw the code because it isnt at the moment and i have been considering my disty
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
ive been racking my brain on this and fastest thank you your input is helping out alot, ill post what happens with the knock sensor
 

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"R" is not an NGK plug part number. You're looking at something like ZFR-#F-## or BKR-#E-##.

Fill in the numbers if you have ZFR or BKRs or tell us which plugs you actually have.

Plus, what did you gap them at.
if it was a fuel cut out by disconnecting the vris solinoids it whould have changed the cut out point a bit but its cutting out at the exact same place thats the only reason i belive it might not be the pump but i might be wrong im gona order a walbro 255 soon.
The cut you are expecting would be caused by you exceeding some sort of air flow limit (like the turbo 1g has from the factory). The 2g, however, does not have any sort of limiter.

Walbro pumps are cheap, just a pain to change. Go ahead and order one, it's good for a ZE anyway.
and i did align the crank gear's notch to the arrow on the oil pump housing and checked it so that means timing is right im going to disconnect the knock sensor and see if it will throw the code because it isnt at the moment and i have been considering my disty
Did you rotate the crank twice though to make sure it stayed aligned. I have changed many timing belts and the first 3 or 4 times it took probably removals and reinstalls to get it lined up perfectly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Swt ok fastest i think we might finally have some progress, today i disconnected the knock sensor to see if it was working, then i reconnected it, now i am throwing code 5, 15, and 23, only. so i think maybe the knock sensor is bad, and yeah im gona order the fuel pump and a fuel pressure regulator. thanks. were can i get a knock sensor at whould they only have it at the dealership
 

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I have no idea where you can get a replacement knock sensor. You can try regular parts stores or the dealer.

I believe they require a special tool to change one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Yeah autozone has them but there 160.00 i have another klze lying around, im going to pull the knock sensor off of that hopefully it will work, and i noticed that i was going to need a special tool, when messing with the other engine, any idea where i can get it
 

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Swt ok fastest i think we might finally have some progress, today i disconnected the knock sensor to see if it was working, then i reconnected it, now i am throwing code 5, 15, and 23, only. so i think maybe the knock sensor is bad, and yeah im gona order the fuel pump and a fuel pressure regulator. thanks. were can i get a knock sensor at whould they only have it at the dealership

If you did not have a CODE 5 before pulling the knock sensor, and now you have, then it shows its working :tup: .. you now have a code 5 because you pulled the connection and have not reset the ecu to clear the code retention.

Pulling the VRIS solenoids will have no effect on fuel cut, and is badly affectling your performance, and producing the hessitation you are experiencing .. may as well plug them back in.

As the probe would not have originally come with a ZE installed, and you will be using your original distributor, and its a 93, that puts you in the bad distributor bracket, and could be a distributor fault.

Does the cut happen smooth or abrupt ? and is it in every gear ? do you have access to a std ecu ? to swap out and test the chipped one is not faulty.
 
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