Glad I checked, I would probably have ended buying an F2T clutch.
So something like this would be ok?
Mazda 626 (1990-1993) 2.2 Ltr 313Nm PHC Heavy Duty V1046NHD Clutch Kit – Clutch Direct
I would say no.
It's peak peak torque capacity is 313Nm = 230 ft-lb.
It's recommended torque capacity is 250Nm = 184ft-lb.
Remember these are ratings at the flywheel not the wheels.
The F2T puts out 190 ft-lb torque at the wheel = 257Nm at the wheels.
If we give it a conservative 15% drivetrain loss that would be 218.5ft-lb torque at the flywheel = 296Nm.
The F2T exceeds the recommended torque and is a slow spool in 4th gear on a cold night away (11.5ft-lb) from reaching and exceeding the peak torque capacity.
A clutches ability to hold torque is based on two things, the clutch disk material and the pressure plates clamping force. You can run a pressure plate with 2 or 3 times the clamping force that is a sprung system with needle bearings, the pedal will be no stiffer than stock and the drive ability and engagement points will be the same but when your foot is off the clutch pedal the pressure plate will apply 2 or 3 times the clamping force to the clutch disk against the flywheel.
The clutch disk material changes the engagement of the clutch and the temperature it needs to be at to grab, how much temperature it can handle and plays a role in how much torque the clutch can hold but weather it's kevlar, ceramic, organic, sintered steel, feramic, carbon... if the pressure plates clamping force isn't strong enough to keep the disk from slipping once it's starts slipping it only gets worse, the steel flywheel and pressure plate faces overheat due to friction and harden reducing bite against the disk, some disk materials will also harden and others will burn, crack, break or shatter.
I have a stage 3 6puck kevlar clutch (400 ft-lb torque) a stage 4 6puck sintered steel clutch (550 ft-lb toque) and a stage 4/5 6puck race cut sintered steel clutch with stage 5 pressure plate (700 ft-lb toque) (Full stage 5 is a 3puck disk, they aren't very streetable, the pressure plate is so heavy that with a 10lb aluminum flywheel the clutch assembly is as heavy as the stage 3 or 4 assemblies with lightened flywheels, 10-12lbs of steel removed from the back side).
All 3 are sprung with needle bearings, the pedal is not stiff and the same for all 3, the engagement is the same for all 3.
Aside from the fact the kevlar disk needs a break in period and the sintered steel doesn't there is no noticeable difference between the 3, I wouldn't be able to tell the difference between the three from driving with one of them at random. They all transfer crank torsion to the transmission without slipping.
The only difference between them is how much torque they can hold without slipping when your foot is not on the pedal. Something you'll never notice, can't feel or measure until you exceed the torque rating of the clutch, it slips, it's ruined and wont hold as much torque and now you have to spend the price of the first clutch again + the cost to step up to the next stage and remove the transmission to change the clutch.
I say always go 100fl-lb or more toque capacity over the most torque you ever plan to make. Make 200ft-lb run a 300ft-lb clutch, make 400 run 550...
Although clutch directs prices are super low, the clamping force of their clutches is pretty low, the Turbo heavy duty clutch is rated for a max torque of 392Nm = 289ft-lb
And recommended for a torque of 313Nm = 231ft-lb, and F2T bone stock with a chipped ECU running 15psi will make a lot more than 231ft-lb torque at the flywheel. The fact the heavy duty clutch recommended rating is only 12.5 ft-lb flywheel torque over the conservative factory flywheel torque at 15% drivetrain loss doesn't sound like a clutch that leaves any performance potential room.
They don't mention torque specs for the factory spec Turbo clutch but with the heavy duty clutch having such low numbers it sounds like the factory spec turbo clutch would be 4 or 5psi away from slipping.
At 125$ you might get lucky and the clutch never slips or you might have to buy a more expensive clutch and replace it.