Mazda Carnage· Registered
Removing it gives the car a steady power band, the wastegate is about 7psi, the solenoids opens in mid RPM and acts as a boost controller raising mid range boost to about 8.5psi, when it shuts at higher rpm the entire power band falls with it.Unrelated - you mentioned something previously about the way the boost solenoid is set up, and something about removing it to make the car continue to make more power at higher RPMs. Maybe I was misunderstanding. But are you able to explain that more at all?
In other words -
1. How should the turbo be set up to run correctly/safely with the solenoid removed
2. Should I leave the solenoid in place to make sure the car is running properly first before playing around with that sort of stuff?
This can be accomplished by simply unplugging the solenoid valve at the wire harness however this will reduce peak engine torque because max boost will be lower (mid rpm) but will give the engine a steady power band.
Of course most people install a chip and boost controller and run 15psi on the factory turbo while dreaming of upgrading the turbo.
I am cutting you some slack because your going from N/A tuned to turbo and although it's a small step it's in the right direction.
What I recommend for you is that you leave the solenoid where it is and plumb the hoses like factory.
Unplug the solenoid from the factory engine harness and run 12V from a relay controlled by a toggle switch to the solenoid valve (always use switched 12V to activate the relays coil).
Loosen the locking nut on the solenoid valve and unscrew the adjustment stud 1/2 turn, lock the nut.
Drive the car with the boost solenoid turned on and repeat the process until you see 10psi in higher rpm 4th gear on a boost gauge.
You will have two stages of boost, 7psi and 10psi. I say always leave the toggle switch on unless it snows in Australia.
You can run up to 12psi before hitting boost cut, boost cut is decided by the air flow meter flaps travel so how much air the engine gets not how much boost pressure is in the manifold, 10psi should be far enough away from 12 that small boost spikes wont trigger boost cut.