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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I want a no if they have big difference in the performence on a mx6 with 4cyl. and the others with 6cyl.

I know 4cyl = 115hp
and 6 cyl. = 165hp

but on the road when you compare the 2 of us if they have a big difference.

And anotehr think I go to my Mazda dealer and the sales man tell my for 10 000$ (canadien money i live in canada) I should by a 4cyl.(1996-1998) Mx6 because if i want a 6cyl. i need to go in the (11993-1994) for the same prices.
 

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4-Cyl Is Just fine With Me!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Before ANYONE replies: DON'T KNOCK THE 4-Cyl. I know some of you will!
 

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I don't know personally, but this is per my brother. He has a friend who has the 2nd Gen 4 cyl. and he told me that the guy likes to thump his chest, but after riding and driving it he was not very impressed. He kind of half smiled when I told him I got a MX-6. So when he first rode in and drove mine he was a little surprised in the difference. "This thing actually throws you back in your seat a little bit", were his words as I recall. I have a V6 2nd gen. My brother is a car guy who knows his stuff, so using him as a measuring stick yes there is a difference. I don't know the 0-60 times exactly for the 4 cyl. MX-6, but the the 93 Probe 4 cyl. is 9.1 and 16.4 as opposed to 7.4 and 15.6 for the V6. Both cars can be modded and are fun to drive, but it is what it is as far as performance goes. Trannies are important too, mtx's seem to be more reliable in our cars and give better performance. My vote, goes for looking for a V6 with a mtx. That's my opinion though and I am welcome to it. ;)
 

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my x wife had a 626 4 ccyl and I have the mx-6 v6. The four popers are great little cars, but going up steep hills she would always have down shift it where as in my car it was not necassary(and this was before I bought the ZE) You could always get the four cyl,and throw in a FSZE that puts out 170 hp.
 

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626butnotforlong said:

I want a no if they have big difference in the performence on a mx6 with 4cyl. and the others with 6cyl.

I know 4cyl = 115hp
and 6 cyl. = 165hp

but on the road when you compare the 2 of us if they have a big difference.
Well, there's no getting away from the fact that there's a 50HP difference between the two engines. The V6 5-speed is good for mid 7-sec 0-60 times while the 4-cyl 5-speed is good for low 9-sec runs. Quarter mile times for the 4-banger are something like a second and perhaps 8MPH slower, which equates to about 5 to 7 car lengths.

This isn't saying the 4-cyl is bad. It's smooth, delivers its power well, gets good mileage etc. But when compared stock-to-stock to the V6 in straight-line, foot-to-the-floor head-to-head tetsing, its 50HP deficit shows.

Not everyone is a drag racer. Drive both and choose the one that suits you better.

And anotehr think I go to my Mazda dealer and the sales man tell my for 10 000$ (canadien money i live in canada) I should by a 4cyl.(1996-1998) Mx6 because if i want a 6cyl. i need to go in the (11993-1994) for the same prices.
Consider looking places other than a Mazda dealer (or any big-name dealer for that matter.) You can find fine examples of both 4- and 6-cyl cars that may be somewhat higher in mileage than the Mazda lot cars but which will be considerably cheaper.
 

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i say the 4 because there just EASIER...

easer to maintain, easier to work on, easier to pull the engine (if youre into that kinda thing).

theres more space in the engine bay to work around, etc.

a little HARDER to keep up, but that can be fixed...

i would also say that the FS is more restricted in its stock form... this makes it easier to free up ponies. i say this because... look at the jump to the ZE...

FSZE= 118 HP up to 170 HP... 52 HP=a 44% jump!
KLZE= 164 HP up to 200 HP... 36 HP=an 18% jump...:rolleyes:

i bet in japan, the four is not too far behind in straight line performance... probably right on the bumper of the six throught the turns...
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
thanks

Everybody thanks for the held

and it<s true the 4cyl is esier too repair. With the V6 all the reparation have to be make by under the car. You need too go in a garage.
 

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Re: thanks

626butnotforlong said:
With the V6 all the reparation have to be make by under the car. You need too go in a garage.
That isn't exactly true. Most of the work you would do on 4 cylinder you would do on the 6 cylinder in the same way. Changing plugs, wires, distributor, valve cover gaskets, vacuum hoses, changing oil, brakes etc. the list goes on.
I guess there are certain advantages to getting a 4 cylinder, better fuel economy, possibly less expensve parts, etc. But the only way you are going to get the performance of the 6 cylinder is to either start making some pretty major modifications to the 4's engine, or doing a swap to a jap spec engine. I would NOT say that the 4 cylinder is more reliable than the 6, but I wouldn't say it is worse either. I think it comes down to a matter of personal preference. Starting with the 6 cylinder, you already have much more hp and torque at your disposal, without having to do any modifications at all. If you want better gas mileage with an engine bay that is easier to work with and cheaper sticker prices, then I would go with a 4 cylinder. To each his own.
 

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Re: Re: thanks

saint said:
Most of the work you would do on 4 cylinder you would do on the 6 cylinder in the same way. Changing plugs, wires, distributor, valve cover gaskets, vacuum hoses, changing oil, brakes etc. the list goes on.
true, its just easier on the 4...
 

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For some this is not important, but the I4 engine weights less. Which means the car is less front-heavy and has a
better weight distribution and handles better.

And fuel consumption: I've driven 590 miles on one tank.
(Continious driving on the highway, at about 50-60 mph)
 

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Re: stage36

626butnotforlong said:
Hey man what is your car ans what modification you have on it
i have a stage 3 engine (except stage 4 rods and stage 2 cams) with an overbore of .040" and a comp. ratio of 11:1.
i have a kevlar clutch mated with a 9.5 lb. flywheel. i have a front strut brace, an intake, catback, and hollowed out cat. also, i have blue headlights, red front corner bulbs, a kenwood excelon D-mask CD player, a 5-point harness... i have custom lowering and 17" 10-spoke tuner wheels (www.rimone.com ...the ones on the eclipse). in the mail or on their way are a UDP, a-pillar gauge pods, and J-spec projector headlights. i think thats about it...

i plan to:
custom the 94-99 celica body kit (www.erebuni.net ... the yellow one) onto my car,
C5 taillight conversion with custom LED turn and reverse signals,
shave door handles, trunk lock, gas tank lid, rain gutters, emblems,
rear dics brake conversion, slotted rotors all the way around,
150 Shot of NOS,
custom ram air hood with heat vents, louvers, etc.
custom vents all over the car, 64+ classifies it as a supercar (according to saleen),
fully adjustible hydraulic suspension with gas accumulators (one pump, two dumps, 3 switches, 6" cylinders, slow down valves, automatic/manual computerized ride heighth adjustment, on screen display, more...),
custom paint (candy midnight blue, silver base coat, blah blah... search for "if you could paint your 6 any color..."),
custom leather interior, including extensive panel mods,
full alpine security/sound system with Navigation, TVs in the visors, cell phone interface, etc...EVERYTHING!
roll cage,
18" volk racing kuwagata F-Zeros,
HID headlight conversion,
Dual DTM exhaust,
Custom header,
phenolics,
extensively modified intake manifold and TB,
if they make a supercharger, and i am making enough at the time, ill do that too...
Scissored doors (like the diablo),
oil slicks,
smoke screens,
changing license plate,
compartments that drop tacks behind the car,
Neon underbody kit,
Neon interior (or lightsheet... havent decided yet)
Porting bandpass box with 4 10s through the back dash with 3 4" ports, laminated with lightsheet...

i cant think of anything else right now except my "secret" things... things that have never been done before...

if i think of anything more, ill post it.
 

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well, i own a 2nd gen v-6 mtx and i love it...but my best friend owns a mazdadealership and i used to work there in the summers, and i can tell u that while the v-6 is durable and has been known to go to 300,000 miles trouble free, on average the 4 cylinders are basically bulletproof. you can really beat them and they will hardly ever fail.
 

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unless you umm.... go 10000 miles without umm... changing your oil... yeah...
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
odometer

Yes guys I just buy a Mx-6 1997 manuel 4cyl.
whit 78 500 Km.

The Mazda waranty is good for 3years or 100 000 Km.
I wnt to stop my odometer. How can I do that..
 

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Can't help ya there, but haven't you already missed the 3 year mark (97 to 01 = 4 yrs)? (usually warranty means whichever comes first).

Unless you just don't WANT to know how fast you're going... You can always just remove the whole damn instrument panel. Seven screws, two connectors, and bam.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
prices

I'm back from my Mazda dealers they sales me a Mx-6 1997
4cyl. the base model 78 500Km warranty 2003 or 100 000Km.
Tint windows and mags for 13 500$ (Canadian money)

Do you think is a fair price. Or do you think I can deal it more like buy it for 13 000$
 

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i think you disconnect the wheel speed sensor...

but ive never wanted to do this so i would have to read up on it...
 
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