Mazda MX-6 Forum banner

1 - 20 of 27 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,
Long story short I recently bought a new project car, a 94 MX-6 2.5L, that had been sitting in someones yard for quite a number of years. A few issues, the main one being, the car cranks but does not start. I have tried installing a brand new distributor (not OEM) that I got off ebay. And still there is no spark going to the spark plugs. And when I turn the key to the ON position, one click before START, I can hear one of the relays in the engine bay clicking 3 times. Another side issue that had got me thinking to possible reasons this was happening is, the window switches and sunroof switches are intermittent. For example I can put the passenger window down on the drivers side, but not up, it has to be put up again by pressing the button on the passenger side. And the Sunroof opens, but does not close. I had to pull head liner down and close it manually by hand with a torx screw driver. And when I press on the drivers side windows to go up the A/C fans blow at MAX speed, and only while the button is pressed. This got me thinking that because the car had been sitting for so long then perhaps the grounding strap could possibly be corroded or damaged. Causing weird electrical problems.

Any knowledge or help on this situation would be greatly appreciated, as I am not a mechanic and I am trying my best to learn! Thanks in advance
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
67 Posts
Bad grounds always can cause a lot of trouble, but they're more likely to cause intermittent problems...


To me, both the sunroof and the AC issue sound like the contacts on the actual switches need cleaned. As far as the no-start condition, you need to figure out why you're not getting spark. Check fuses, check grounds and connections on the ignition system and see where it goes from there. Can you confirm you're getting power to the dizzy?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Bad grounds always can cause a lot of trouble, but they're more likely to cause intermittent problems...


To me, both the sunroof and the AC issue sound like the contacts on the actual switches need cleaned. As far as the no-start condition, you need to figure out why you're not getting spark. Check fuses, check grounds and connections on the ignition system and see where it goes from there. Can you confirm you're getting power to the dizzy?
Thanks for the help!

Ah yes I also forgot to mention, I did check all the fuses, both the ones in the engine bay and in the drivers foot well. All were good and not broken/blown. I did not check the relays though... As for the switches, there is a distinct "click" like sound when pressing in the window button, on the sunroof and the door window, to indicate its been activated to open, but not on the close, if that makes sense. And as for power to the distributor, I will have to check all of that tomorrow!

OH and also I forgot to mention these few things, upon removing the distributor, I forgot to mark its location. And after searching through the internet for hours figured out how to find TDC, I think... There are no marks on the Harmonic balancer, just the marks on the engine block. Is that normal? Are there marks on your balancer? BUT I digress, after trying to reinstall the distributor, I could not get it all the way in, its sitting out of the engine by just a couple of millimetres, it just won't go in that last tiny bit. I figure I would just be able to slowly tighten the bolts on each side bit by bit and it would ease it's way in, and I snapped the mounting bracket. Nothing serious, only a hairline crack. Do you think this would cause any problems in the time being for trying to get it started? I will replace it down the line once the car is running, because I am sure the vibrations caused by the engine will cause the hairline fracture to worsen. Do you have any tips for that as well?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
67 Posts
Unfortunately, my experience is with the 2.0L, but I'm sure a lot of it will carry over....

The mark on the harmonic balancer is really hard to see. It's just a little divot on one edge. I used a paint pen to make it a lot brighter, which helped a lot (I actually did that with both cams, front and back, plus the balancer and the timing marks on the timing cover). That made putting the timing belt on right and timing the engine a lot easier.

The distributor should go in without needing to be jammed... if it's hanging up, it's because the dizzy gear and the cam gear aren't quite aligned and attempting to force it could cause damage. Try pulling the dizzy back out and wiggling it in carefully, or better yet, pulling the valve cover so you can see what you're doing. (full disclosure, the dizzy is one part I haven't actually changed) Doing the valve cover gasket is probably worthwhile anyway... they're cheap and easy (well... the front cover is easy, the rear cover is hard on the V6. I don't know which one the dizzy's on)

I wouldn't worry about the crack in the mounting bracket. if it shows signs of widening or loosening, just J.B. Weld.

The distributor is guaranteed to be your no-start problem. The alignment of the distributor controls when the spark plugs fire, and if they're not firing at the right time, the engine won't fire.

Pull out the dizzy, make sure the gear isn't damaged, find TDC on the engine (if you absolutely cannot find the mark on the harmonic balancer, you can put a wooden dowel into the spark plug hole for cyl #1 (make sure it's long enough there's no risk of losing it!) and find TDC that way) and then carefully reinstall the distributor. If you don't have a shop manual, buy one or download one and make sure you follow the procedures.

I'm a slow mechanic since I'm always triple-checking the procedures, but I've gone from not knowing how to change oil to doing two timing belts purely by reading and trying.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Thanks for the help!

Ah yes I also forgot to mention, I did check all the fuses, both the ones in the engine bay and in the drivers foot well. All were good and not broken/blown. I did not check the relays though... As for the switches, there is a distinct "click" like sound when pressing in the window button, on the sunroof and the door window, to indicate its been activated to open, but not on the close, if that makes sense. And as for power to the distributor, I will have to check all of that tomorrow!

OH and also I forgot to mention these few things, upon removing the distributor, I forgot to mark its location. And after searching through the internet for hours figured out how to find TDC, I think... There are no marks on the Harmonic balancer, just the marks on the engine block. Is that normal? Are there marks on your balancer? BUT I digress, after trying to reinstall the distributor, I could not get it all the way in, its sitting out of the engine by just a couple of millimetres, it just won't go in that last tiny bit. I figure I would just be able to slowly tighten the bolts on each side bit by bit and it would ease it's way in, and I snapped the mounting bracket. Nothing serious, only a hairline crack. Do you think this would cause any problems in the time being for trying to get it started? I will replace it down the line once the car is running, because I am sure the vibrations caused by the engine will cause the hairline fracture to worsen. Do you have any tips for that as well?
Hi all,
Long story short I recently bought a new project car, a 94 MX-6 2.5L, that had been sitting in someones yard for quite a number of years. A few issues, the main one being, the car cranks but does not start. I have tried installing a brand new distributor (not OEM) that I got off ebay. And still there is no spark going to the spark plugs. And when I turn the key to the ON position, one click before START, I can hear one of the relays in the engine bay clicking 3 times. Another side issue that had got me thinking to possible reasons this was happening is, the window switches and sunroof switches are intermittent. For example I can put the passenger window down on the drivers side, but not up, it has to be put up again by pressing the button on the passenger side. And the Sunroof opens, but does not close. I had to pull head liner down and close it manually by hand with a torx screw driver. And when I press on the drivers side windows to go up the A/C fans blow at MAX speed, and only while the button is pressed. This got me thinking that because the car had been sitting for so long then perhaps the grounding strap could possibly be corroded or damaged. Causing weird electrical problems.

Any knowledge or help on this situation would be greatly appreciated, as I am not a mechanic and I am trying my best to learn! Thanks in advance
Hi all,
Long story short I recently bought a new project car, a 94 MX-6 2.5L, that had been sitting in someones yard for quite a number of years. A few issues, the main one being, the car cranks but does not start. I have tried installing a brand new distributor (not OEM) that I got off ebay. And still there is no spark going to the spark plugs. And when I turn the key to the ON position, one click before START, I can hear one of the relays in the engine bay clicking 3 times. Another side issue that had got me thinking to possible reasons this was happening is, the window switches and sunroof switches are intermittent. For example I can put the passenger window down on the drivers side, but not up, it has to be put up again by pressing the button on the passenger side. And the Sunroof opens, but does not close. I had to pull head liner down and close it manually by hand with a torx screw driver. And when I press on the drivers side windows to go up the A/C fans blow at MAX speed, and only while the button is pressed. This got me thinking that because the car had been sitting for so long then perhaps the grounding strap could possibly be corroded or damaged. Causing weird electrical problems.

Any knowledge or help on this situation would be greatly appreciated, as I am not a mechanic and I am trying my best to learn! Thanks in advance
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
so just had to change the distributor on my 93 v6 Ls last month, I understand these distributers are notoriously problematic, I have first hand experience having gone through 3 in 24 years and 134,000 miles. Ordered brand new from rockauto was bad right out of the box, had to order second 1 from local auto store, worked fine. so the distributer on v6 doesn't really have a gear on it ,it's just a short straight bar that goes across so it's absolutely imperative to be on TDC when you install, with rotor pointed at number one it should slide in easily. As for your window switch operating your blower motor don't have a clue there, seems like those should be on separate circuits, I do have some extra power window switches if your interested, don't know if their the same on 94 as on my 93 though, sounds like you got a short some where though
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
My 96 was running fine after I changed the dizzy leads, I decided to get a new dizzy anyway. The ebay dizzy arrived, I fitted it and voila!... car would crank but not start. I fitted the old dizzy... ran fine. Dud dizzy... from ebay? Fancy that...

Note to self... ebay dizzys look all shiny and new... but don't always work.

I would say the coil in the new dizzy is no good. They gave me $50 back (dizzy was $124)

I am still using the original dizzy with the cap and rotor off the new one)

The windows sound like dodgy switches to me

13237
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Don, The MX6 dizzy only fits in one position due to the offset coupling and one side is wide and the other is thin... so, it doesnt matter if the crank is at top dead center? Where you pull out the original distributor, the new one will be in the same position (rotor) .... you only have to make sure the body of the dizzy is in the same place as the old one's body was... and check/adjust with a timing light.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Unfortunately, my experience is with the 2.0L, but I'm sure a lot of it will carry over....

The mark on the harmonic balancer is really hard to see. It's just a little divot on one edge. I used a paint pen to make it a lot brighter, which helped a lot (I actually did that with both cams, front and back, plus the balancer and the timing marks on the timing cover). That made putting the timing belt on right and timing the engine a lot easier.

The distributor should go in without needing to be jammed... if it's hanging up, it's because the dizzy gear and the cam gear aren't quite aligned and attempting to force it could cause damage. Try pulling the dizzy back out and wiggling it in carefully, or better yet, pulling the valve cover so you can see what you're doing. (full disclosure, the dizzy is one part I haven't actually changed) Doing the valve cover gasket is probably worthwhile anyway... they're cheap and easy (well... the front cover is easy, the rear cover is hard on the V6. I don't know which one the dizzy's on)

I wouldn't worry about the crack in the mounting bracket. if it shows signs of widening or loosening, just J.B. Weld.

The distributor is guaranteed to be your no-start problem. The alignment of the distributor controls when the spark plugs fire, and if they're not firing at the right time, the engine won't fire.

Pull out the dizzy, make sure the gear isn't damaged, find TDC on the engine (if you absolutely cannot find the mark on the harmonic balancer, you can put a wooden dowel into the spark plug hole for cyl #1 (make sure it's long enough there's no risk of losing it!) and find TDC that way) and then carefully reinstall the distributor. If you don't have a shop manual, buy one or download one and make sure you follow the procedures.

I'm a slow mechanic since I'm always triple-checking the procedures, but I've gone from not knowing how to change oil to doing two timing belts purely by reading and trying.
Thanks for the reply! Yes that's what I did I found TDC and installed the distributor. I just went out there to try and start it again. But no luck :( I also tried troubleshooting why using the steps outlined in this https://www.king6fab.com/how-to-technical-help/technical/93-94-ignition-diagnosis/ What I also discovered is that there is a cable missing, I'm not quite sure what the part is called but it's on the dizzy.
13239


The part where a cable would be on the far right is plugged with rubber or something, it looks like it's supposed to be like that, not like the cable has been snipped off there or something. And that plugs into this part on the dizzy

13240


It's really stumped me because the cable looks like it is intended to be like that, but on the distributor there are 3 pins.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
so just had to change the distributor on my 93 v6 Ls last month, I understand these distributers are notoriously problematic, I have first hand experience having gone through 3 in 24 years and 134,000 miles. Ordered brand new from rockauto was bad right out of the box, had to order second 1 from local auto store, worked fine. so the distributer on v6 doesn't really have a gear on it ,it's just a short straight bar that goes across so it's absolutely imperative to be on TDC when you install, with rotor pointed at number one it should slide in easily. As for your window switch operating your blower motor don't have a clue there, seems like those should be on separate circuits, I do have some extra power window switches if your interested, don't know if their the same on 94 as on my 93 though, sounds like you got a short some where though

Yes I have noticed after looking this problem up that it seems to be common. I bought the new distributor and it sort of felt "budget" so I hope I didnt buy a new one that came defective out of the box like what you experienced. As for the switches, I'm in Australia, so it might be more be more cost effective to buy one online from an aussie dealer I found on ebay. But thank you!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
My 96 was running fine after I changed the dizzy leads, I decided to get a new dizzy anyway. The ebay dizzy arrived, I fitted it and voila!... car would crank but not start. I fitted the old dizzy... ran fine. Dud dizzy... from ebay? Fancy that...

Note to self... ebay dizzys look all shiny and new... but don't always work.

I would say the coil in the new dizzy is no good. They gave me $50 back (dizzy was $124)

I am still using the original dizzy with the cap and rotor off the new one)

The windows sound like dodgy switches to me

View attachment 13237
Ahhh yes yes yes, the ebay dizzy that I bought felt cheap, even compared to the old dirty non functioning one. Maybe I did get a dud from ebay. It even had a couple of hairline cracks on the dizzy cap. It's a shame that I broke it otherwise I would've sent it back the next day. But oh well, maybe I can utilise the best parts from the dizzys that I have and make one good one!
13241


13242


Also, I know that the flat piece of metal there is asymmetrical, but will it only fit properly into the engine block one way and only that one way? So for example it wouldnt matter if the engine wasn't at TDC, because that notch will align it properly? If so I must've installed the dizzy 180 degrees out. But still even if it was out, if the dizzy isnt faulty that would mean that it would still send spark to the spark plugs, just at the wrong time right?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
The only way you can get putting the dizzy in wrong, is the body of it. You cant really get the rotating inner shaft wrong if taking one out and another one in, without the motor being turned because of the coupler being only a one position fit.

When I changed mine, I first marked the body of the dizzy and the motor in 2 places, then undid the bolts and wiggled out the dizzy, then lined up the shaft/coupler and the body of the dizzy in the correct orientation... then put the dizzy in place, then lined up where the marks on the dizzy should be (compared to the old one) and tightened the bolts. When that dizzy didnt work, I removed it and re-fitted the (cleaned) original dizzy, with the marks corresponding... and it fired right up.

So, because I used the new ones cap and rotor, they are ok... so that really only leaves the hall sensor and the coil as suspects... as you say, have a spare new body/bearings/shaft etc ... which to buy in parts would add up to way more than the $70 or so I paid for it... plus I used the cap and rotor.

So, I am disappointed the shiny new dizzy didn't work... but I am happy. Car runs awesome (y)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
165 Posts
Unfortunately, my experience is with the 2.0L, but I'm sure a lot of it will carry over....

The mark on the harmonic balancer is really hard to see. It's just a little divot on one edge. I used a paint pen to make it a lot brighter, which helped a lot (I actually did that with both cams, front and back, plus the balancer and the timing marks on the timing cover). That made putting the timing belt on right and timing the engine a lot easier.

The distributor should go in without needing to be jammed... if it's hanging up, it's because the dizzy gear and the cam gear aren't quite aligned and attempting to force it could cause damage. Try pulling the dizzy back out and wiggling it in carefully, or better yet, pulling the valve cover so you can see what you're doing. (full disclosure, the dizzy is one part I haven't actually changed) Doing the valve cover gasket is probably worthwhile anyway... they're cheap and easy (well... the front cover is easy, the rear cover is hard on the V6. I don't know which one the dizzy's on)

I wouldn't worry about the crack in the mounting bracket. if it shows signs of widening or loosening, just J.B. Weld.

The distributor is guaranteed to be your no-start problem. The alignment of the distributor controls when the spark plugs fire, and if they're not firing at the right time, the engine won't fire.

Pull out the dizzy, make sure the gear isn't damaged, find TDC on the engine (if you absolutely cannot find the mark on the harmonic balancer, you can put a wooden dowel into the spark plug hole for cyl #1 (make sure it's long enough there's no risk of losing it!) and find TDC that way) and then carefully reinstall the distributor. If you don't have a shop manual, buy one or download one and make sure you follow the procedures.

I'm a slow mechanic since I'm always triple-checking the procedures, but I've gone from not knowing how to change oil to doing two timing belts purely by reading and trying.
I have a '94 MX6, LS 2.5LV6 that still runs like crazy. I have done a lot of work on it over the past 23 years..As for the harmonic balancer, there is DEFINITELY suppose to be a timing mark on it. I have had to replace my harmonic balancer 3 -4 times. I know the mark is suppose to be there because I have used my timing light to adjust the timing. As for the distributor not going all the way, as I remember it, there are two types of distributors that can be purchased. Can't remember the designations, but the difference is the end that fit into the end of the cam shaft. They look different. Sounds like you have the wrong distributor for the cams you have. The distributor it directly driven off camshaft via a keyed slot in the shaft. You might be able to search for the two types on this forum. I will look through my stuff to see if I can find anything on the designations, but don't get your hopes up. My distributor replacement was in 2000. These distributor are know to have the ignitor module go bad. Rebuilt distributor can be DOA because of bad ignitor modules. Search "Bailey HEI mod". That should give you some background.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
The only way you can get putting the dizzy in wrong, is the body of it. You cant really get the rotating inner shaft wrong if taking one out and another one in, without the motor being turned because of the coupler being only a one position fit.

When I changed mine, I first marked the body of the dizzy and the motor in 2 places, then undid the bolts and wiggled out the dizzy, then lined up the shaft/coupler and the body of the dizzy in the correct orientation... then put the dizzy in place, then lined up where the marks on the dizzy should be (compared to the old one) and tightened the bolts. When that dizzy didnt work, I removed it and re-fitted the (cleaned) original dizzy, with the marks corresponding... and it fired right up.

So, because I used the new ones cap and rotor, they are ok... so that really only leaves the hall sensor and the coil as suspects... as you say, have a spare new body/bearings/shaft etc ... which to buy in parts would add up to way more than the $70 or so I paid for it... plus I used the cap and rotor.

So, I am disappointed the shiny new dizzy didn't work... but I am happy. Car runs awesome (y)
Okay so the dizzy can only go in one way, got it! I will pull that one out tomorrow and rebuild one good one. If that doesn't work do you have any other solutions? Buy another dizzy off ebay and try my luck on that one not being a dud?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
I have a '94 MX6, LS 2.5LV6 that still runs like crazy. I have done a lot of work on it over the past 23 years..As for the harmonic balancer, there is DEFINITELY suppose to be a timing mark on it. I have had to replace my harmonic balancer 3 -4 times. I know the mark is suppose to be there because I have used my timing light to adjust the timing. As for the distributor not going all the way, as I remember it, there are two types of distributors that can be purchased. Can't remember the designations, but the difference is the end that fit into the end of the cam shaft. They look different. Sounds like you have the wrong distributor for the cams you have. The distributor it directly driven off camshaft via a keyed slot in the shaft. You might be able to search for the two types on this forum. I will look through my stuff to see if I can find anything on the designations, but don't get your hopes up. My distributor replacement was in 2000. These distributor are know to have the ignitor module go bad. Rebuilt distributor can be DOA because of bad ignitor modules. Search "Bailey HEI mod". That should give you some background.
Thanks for the reply! It's definitely has the right dizzy, its exactly the same looking as the buggered one that I ripped out of it, and I looked in the hole and it has the matching hole in the engine. I just thought maybe I didn't do it right or there was a trick to it. Is that HEI mod an upgrade or an alternative ignition system for the car?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
165 Posts
I have a '94 MX6, LS 2.5LV6 that still runs like crazy. I have done a lot of work on it over the past 23 years..As for the harmonic balancer, there is DEFINITELY suppose to be a timing mark on it. I have had to replace my harmonic balancer 3 -4 times. I know the mark is suppose to be there because I have used my timing light to adjust the timing. As for the distributor not going all the way, as I remember it, there are two types of distributors that can be purchased. Can't remember the designations, but the difference is the end that fit into the end of the cam shaft. They look different. Sounds like you have the wrong distributor for the cams you have. The distributor it directly driven off camshaft via a keyed slot in the shaft. You might be able to search for the two types on this forum. I will look through my stuff to see if I can find anything on the designations, but don't get your hopes up. My distributor replacement was in 2000. These distributor are know to have the ignitor module go bad. Rebuilt distributor can be DOA because of bad ignitor modules. Search "Bailey HEI mod". That should give you some background.
I just went to 1994 MAZDA MX-6 2.5L V6 Distributor | RockAuto. Now I remember the designator. TOT57071 and TOT57072. I think it might be stamped on the housing.
 
1 - 20 of 27 Posts
Top