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A/C question to make it colder when car is stopped

598 Views 7 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  Mazda_Powered
A/C system works great. All new components, no leaks, freezing on the highway.

Problem: when car is stopped, a/c does not cool nearly as much, due to air not flowing over the condensor and radiator.

Question: if the refrigerant is removed, and an air vacuum evacuation is done again, will that make the a/c cool
to lower temps when the car is stopped ? If not I will leave everything the way it is.
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First question, have you had a proper AC refresh yet? Also, when did you replace your idler pulley and associated belts. That can cause the AC to drop at idle until you get moving again. Look at your tensioner pulley also.
Why doesn't air flow over the condenser when stopped? The fan should come on once to turn on the A/C.
You should have a radiator fan and condenser fan.
When the car is not moving, there is less air flowing in over the engine. Also note car fans blow air toward the engine, not outward over the radiator and condensor. The ac temp difference in my car is substantial from when it is stopped compared to when it is on the highway. On the highway it can be freezing. When not moving for a while, probably a 10 to 15 degree difference. That is why I was asking if a stronger vacuum evacuation of the air from the a/c system might help this. I didn't have real powerful shop type vacuum evacuation tools when I did it. But if it would make little difference, I will leave the a/c system as is.
From my experience on a Subaru Outback doing the same thing, it was the fan not turning on.
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yes, you need both an engine fan on one side of the radiator and the a/c fan on the other half of the radiator. They both should run when a/c switched on.

Check for debris between condensor and radiator
Everything is fine with the 2 fans, they are new also. The a/c fan turns on when the a/c is switched on. The other fan I believe turns on when the engine reaches a certain temp. All a/c parts are new and the a/c system works well. Low pressure side stays around 40 psi.

My question is, if there is a better or more powerful vacuum system job done, will that help to lower the temp the a/c can produce when the car is stopped.
With my 1990 3.0 Probe (that didn't even have a fan for the condenser), the owner had the a/c topped up while getting an oil change. The air blew cold for about 2 weeks, and I noticed a very large difference in the idle temperature as you've mentioned. The 1st generation Probes without tint are just ovens. I have the cars a/c inspected locally here, at a reputable shop that warranties their work uses a thermometer to measure the temperatures before and after...and WOW the car was a freezer after. Even in traffic the temperature may have only dropped a few degrees. Was cold for the following 2 years before I had to sell the car. Anyways. If you didn't catch on, it's all on who does the best work and can stand behind it. It cost me $270CAD to have this done, but the car only had 36,000km and thet warrantied the a/c for life if you were under 40,000km lol...1990 rolls in...lol they all had a laugh. All the best with your search my friend. Maybe look into upgrading the condenser fan perhaps or using the factory service manual to inspect the fan for proper operation. I was going to install a 12" radiator fan on a thermoswitch for mine before selling it.
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