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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a friend who is a real honda freak. Even though he is a dedicated honda man he finds my 6 very cool. (Probably because I'm faster) Anyway, he advanced the timing on his car and told me he could do the same for me. Should I do it? Frankly - I don't even know what the hell "advancing timing" even means. He sais it's so you can use a higher octane gas to it's full potential. Should I do it?
 

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Heeeeeell NO!!!

Advancing the timing on our cars is not a good idea to do. Especially if your not doing the factory boost anymore. The more boost you go, the more you need to RETARD it, not advance it. Your buddy with the Honda there must be all motor only, that's why he's doing that. It will help only if your ALL MOTOR. It gives you a better pick up only, but when you hit the high R's, it ain't. You can detonate badly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Tanks GTN12's
So - I'm turning up my boost soon (to 12psi) using a dawesdevices manual control - do i need to retard my timing? What other prep work should be done befor turning it up - thanks
 

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Only a little

If your going to 12psi, retard it 4 degrees more. I believe that the stock timing is at 9 degrees BTDC so then it will be 13 degrees BTDC now. Your fuel might be a little lean now though. If you want to, you can adjust it. If you don't want to pay someone to adjust it for you, here's what you do. On the MAF sensor, where the intake is, there is a plug at the top right corner of it. Drill a hole in it and pull it out. It might be kinda hard if you don't have tools. You will see a phillips screw in there. Just screw clockwise all the way till you can't anymore. What does it do? It plugs up the bypass chamber in there. It probably used to allow a little air to come in and not let the sensor read it. But now, all air that comes in will be read by the sensor and thus will raise up your fuel. Other than that, that's all you really need to run 12psi.
 

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Re: Only a little

gtn12s said:
If your going to 12psi, retard it 4 degrees more. I believe that the stock timing is at 9 degrees BTDC so then it will be 13 degrees BTDC now. Your fuel might be a little lean now though. If you want to, you can adjust it. If you don't want to pay someone to adjust it for you, here's what you do. On the MAF sensor, where the intake is, there is a plug at the top right corner of it. Drill a hole in it and pull it out. It might be kinda hard if you don't have tools. You will see a phillips screw in there. Just screw clockwise all the way till you can't anymore. What does it do? It plugs up the bypass chamber in there. It probably used to allow a little air to come in and not let the sensor read it. But now, all air that comes in will be read by the sensor and thus will raise up your fuel. Other than that, that's all you really need to run 12psi.
Dude, WTF are you talking about? The "bypass chamber" you're referring to is actually where the MAF's (actually, it's a VAF) temperature sensor is. The ECU kinda likes having that around. Also, if you're making more air go past the flap, he'll reach boost cut much, much sooner. I've never heard of anyone doing this before and I dont see the point. First of all, when increasing the boost on the stock turbo to 12psi (which is all that the ECU allows), no changes to the timing OR VAF need to be made. You only need fuel enrichment when going past 14 really, and if you're doing that, you need to get a chip to get rid of boost cut (well, there are other ways, but for most people it's easiest to drop in a chip). The chip will generally take care of the extra fueling concerns to about 15psi (possibly more).

Zakgreen. The only prep work you'll need to do when increasing the boost is by having a good boost guage (so you're not adjusting it blindly), and an a/f guage so you know your fuel system is in order. Both are $40 items and are easy to install.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I've already purchased a boost guage - how necessary is it to have an a/f guage - if it is important what kind is good - thanks
 

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It's not totally necessary, but it's a good thing to have. Personally, I tend to be very cautious when doing things like this. I'd like to see for myself that my fuel system is doing what it's supposed to do. Autometer makes a good one if you're interested.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Also - what does an a/f guage even do -
and
How do I hook up my boost guage
 

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email me

zakgreen69 said:
I've already purchased a boost guage - how necessary is it to have an a/f guage - if it is important what kind is good - thanks
Zak, I talk to you a bit via email. I can help you with the boost gauge. Also, did you buy the Dawes yet? I ordered the valve through Acklands-Grainger (the same thing) for less than $20 cdn. This is a cheaper route than importing into Can, no shipping, duty etc.
Like I said, email me and we can talk.
You also mentioned you got a new paint job, what did you pay and where did you go, I need some fresh paint too!
Let me know!!
 

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zakgreen69 said:
Also - what does an a/f guage even do -
and
How do I hook up my boost guage
An A/F guage essentially monitors oxygen sensor signal output. The oxygen sensor is what tells the ECU if the car is running rich or lean. They're not the most accurate things in the world, but it's a good guideline as to what's happening in your engine.

The boost guage just requires you to tee off a vacuum line comeing off the the intake manifold. Most people (including myself) have had success with the one that has green dashes on it.
 

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Can't find green dashes

anarchyx34 said:
zakgreen69 said:
Also - what does an a/f guage even do -
and
How do I hook up my boost guage
An A/F guage essentially monitors oxygen sensor signal output. The oxygen sensor is what tells the ECU if the car is running rich or lean. They're not the most accurate things in the world, but it's a good guideline as to what's happening in your engine.

The boost guage just requires you to tee off a vacuum line comeing off the the intake manifold. Most people (including myself) have had success with the one that has green dashes on it.
I have been looking for that line but can't find it or don't know where it is. I used the one with white dashes.
Do you have a pic of what line you teed into, or can I send you some pics of mine engine and you can pooint out which one to use.
 

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Not on mine

When I first originally got my MX-6, I boosted it to 15psi with the stock ECU. The only reason that I can think of why you can't is because your still using the factory solenoid. It's reading your boost, that's why. I got an electronic boost controller and I got rid of that solenoid. I had no problem. I also know that the adjustment screw by the filter is the VAF. It's easier to do that then by the throttle body. That's where your actually supposed to adjust it. It's safer for you too because if you do it at the throttle body, and you don't know what the hell your doing, good luck! I only touched the VAF. And the fuel, it will be leaner if you don't adjust your timing. Gots to do that.
 

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reading this thread cracked me up........ i was searching to see where i should be setting my timing at 16psi.......or maybe if i get crazy, 18psi!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

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gtn12s said:
When I first originally got my MX-6, I boosted it to 15psi with the stock ECU. The only reason that I can think of why you can't is because your still using the factory solenoid. It's reading your boost, that's why. I got an electronic boost controller and I got rid of that solenoid. I had no problem. I also know that the adjustment screw by the filter is the VAF. It's easier to do that then by the throttle body. That's where your actually supposed to adjust it. It's safer for you too because if you do it at the throttle body, and you don't know what the hell your doing, good luck! I only touched the VAF. And the fuel, it will be leaner if you don't adjust your timing. Gots to do that.
dude...

wow...

first its not the solinoid thats lmits u.. its the vaf.. when the door swings open it hits boost cut..simple.. this happend at 11.5-12 psi...

if ur smnart ull contact ZombieSS or probinator for a chiip that changes the fuel and timing and removes boost cut so u can run up to 16psi (max for stock turbo) safely.. dont go past 15-16 on stock turbo with or without chip.. its stupid..
 

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hmmm....advancing timeing...I've considered doing this on my LX. How far advanced should I go. And does it take any power out of the top end? Is it worth it?
 

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the honda tun0rz do it because the knock sensor will of course, sense the knock and retard the timing until it goes away.....good way to squeeze hp out of those little engines. it works quite well....
 

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gtn12s said:
When I first originally got my MX-6, I boosted it to 15psi with the stock ECU. The only reason that I can think of why you can't is because your still using the factory solenoid. It's reading your boost, that's why. I got an electronic boost controller and I got rid of that solenoid. I had no problem. I also know that the adjustment screw by the filter is the VAF. It's easier to do that then by the throttle body. That's where your actually supposed to adjust it. It's safer for you too because if you do it at the throttle body, and you don't know what the hell your doing, good luck! I only touched the VAF. And the fuel, it will be leaner if you don't adjust your timing. Gots to do that.
not to be mean or rude but the rest of your post seems like you were high so I'm just quoting the first line really. You most likely had stock DP or stock exhaust when you were at 15psi on stock ecu.
 
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