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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm not doing this right now due to a lack of funds and the fact that the car isn't working right now.

Goals: Good, clean, balanced sound, doesn't need to be mega loud (my ears are somewhat sensitive). Preferably budget minded, I have quite the family to support.

Intend to: Well, basically replace the whole system. I have two 12" JL subs that I got for free and pretty darn expensive, so I wanna keep those, unless the general consensus is to sell them and replace with something else (either better, or cheaper to use extra cash from sale to improve the rest of the system). I have no problem with running new wiring for all of the speakers/subs/tweeters. I also plan to add a speaker to the rear passenger foot area (behind the rear card [on my mx6] on each side there's a nifty little box that will fit i think a 6" speaker and maybe a tweeter.)

So recommendations? I'm pretty new to this, and since I'm looking to go with a blend of show and go I'd like to use components from all the same company. So I'll need recommendations for head unit (must have CD, maybe mp3 possibly also DVD with flipout screen), tweeters (just replace the two on the dash, or maybe get a few more for the rear deck and/or the lower rear speakers I plan to add?), 4 6x9s, 2 6", one or more amps, crossover? equalizer? Wire?

I read the stickies, but I just don't have the technical knowledge to use the information there. I know that someone else's set up won't necessarily work for me, but a point in the right direction, for a good company with a reasonable price range, and good quality will be very helpful.

Also should I get an amp that has a higher wattage rating, lower, or matched? how does the RMS rating work out?

Thanks and karma to all for your help.
 

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well, for starters, what model number of JL subs do you have? JL makes decent subs, no real need to sell those. Car audio has shit resale value so they'd have to be just awful subs for you sell them and use the money for something else (practicality based I mean).
From there, we can find a decent amp for you, and help you find decent speakers as well. I assume (as per the mention of tweets in the dash) that this is a secdnd gen. So first off, you'll need 6x8's, rather then 6x9's. Lanzar makes a great set of 6x8's that aren't atrociously expensive, and sound great. Two pairs (Front and back) will probably run you around $50-60 shipped for both pairs.
I'd drop the idea of the that 6" and tweet somewhere around the foot area.. that extra pair of speakers will complicate the wiring extensively, and not provide enough of an improvement to be worthwhile.
So in a sense: you'll need two amps. One to power your JL subs, and one to power all four of your 6x8's. Dont worry about the factory tweeters. They were put in a very stupid and poorly designed place to begin with, and they should not be used at all.. leave alone replaced.
I'd get the 6x8's in the doors and in the rear deck and see if you still want more tweeters. My guess is: you wont... so we'll cross that path when we get there.

For the RMS thing, its always good to go more. Extremely seldomly are speakers or subs ever blown because the amp is TOO powerful. I regularily beat the living piss out of my subs sometimes putting up to 400% more power into them then I should (RMS wise), and my subs have lasted countless years, some of them 8 years actually. The problem that creates blown speakers is when the amp ISN'T powerful enough, and it cant create enough power to properly feed the speaker/subwoofer. In relation to how hard you're pushing your amp to make it do so. When that happens its like redlining an engine to put it very very basically. The amp can do so, but you'll shorten its life significantly, or at least fry speakers and subs continually in the process.
So its better to have a big powerful amp that never breaks a sweat towards powering the speakers. At least then you know the speakers aren't being fed "Distorted signals" that in turn (VERY quickly) translate to blown speakers and subs.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
here's what I have now:
2x kenwood 6x8 peak 240 watt impedance 4 ohms magnet 285g. pn kfc-6889ie

2x pioneer coaxial two 6x8 200 watt max (50 watt nominal) 4 ohms pn ts-a6857

2x JL subs
# Continuous Power Handling: 125 Watts
# Voice Coil: 1.38" diameter, 6-layer, Kapton former
# Xmax (one-way, linear): 0.34" (8.6 mm)
Subwoofer Size 12"
# Voice Coil: 1.38" diameter, 6-layer, Kapton former
Impedance (per voice coil) 4 ohms
Peak Power Handling 300 watts approx.
RMS Power Handling 125 watts
Woofer Surround Foam
Sealed Box Volume 1.0 - 1.75 cubic feet
Ported Box Volume 1.75 - 2.75 cubic feet
Sensitivity 87.6 dB

not sure on the head unit right now because it's late and I'm not going outside. plus I hate it anyway.

I'm not too concerned about those tweeters anyway, they're probably a PITA to switch anyway. I was mainly considering the 6" (or whatever fits) because although whether I'll ever enter it into a car show is up in the air, it's mostly a bit of custom kitsch, ya know? That's kind of a later on thing so no big deal.
I'd like to make use of what I have now (ie needing the amps) and upgrade the speakers later. They're pretty good, but I just think it's not exactly win points at a show to have five different companies down for your audio equipment. Unless it's a major feature of the car and the research has been done to get the best of everything regardless of the company.

Thanks for your help

(I did know that JL makes some good stuff, also that it's apparently relatively expensive, thus the selling question) thanks.
 

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Ah, honestly Dave if you are serious about competing in shows then you have your work cut out for you in time. To fine tune your system is quite hard to do. and tts that said knowledge that makes or breaks you in the competition lanes. I'd learn what you need to know in car audio before attempting that show IASCA (sound quality competition) circuit. I used to compete in that, as well as the DBDrag (loudness) competitions; and a lot of it is not only expensive equipment, but the rest of it (that wins prizes I mean) is the knowledge of how to tune and set up that said equipment.
Its about speaker & subwoofer placement, phase linearity etc, etc, its very technical... so I'd put that on the back burner for quite some time. I could walk you though everything, but it would take a LONG time, and in the end you'd need to have a very well trained ear to be able to notice and improve on things that I'd suggest altering. As I can't be there to do the testing and modifying needed for creating perfect sound.

I wasn't aware you already had aftermarket speakers, yeah I'd save your money and stick with those since the Lanzars won't be a HUGE improvement over what you're already using.
So yeah I'll design a box for you, and give you some amp suggestions. My other computer just shit the bed, and thats the one I have the subwoofer box modeling software on, so that wont be in the next few days, but I'll design a box for you quite soon eitherway.
Those subs are only 125 rms each, so at 250 a pair: there are TONS of amps you can get for a song and a dance that would work great with them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Oh, no I meant car shows in general not sound comps. The JLs came in a box, so that's not really needed to design one. So pretty much all I need then is the amp. ugh, I feel like I just wasted a bunch of time, lol. Alright, so what specs am I looking for in an amp?
 

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those power ratings on the subs look like they may be w0 but im not certain, anyways JL is awesome their subs have the best sound out there and they will play the entire bass range amazingly, not just the super low end of the spectrum. as for HU i would say to get an alpine deck, they are just the best out there.
 

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good advice. other then the second link provided by graham. 1. cuz tc series suck 2. you would not be getting optimal performance from both your subs if you attached a 2 chan to it.

i dislike everything TC series from mtx.

ive had more of those amps just "go" then anything.

for example. pull a tc4004 out of a malibu, put it in a 320i the next day and it magically broke and blew up the front right speaker, the balance was all out of whack it was weird. also had a tc6001,tc4002. didnt work all that well, i would not sugges tthe tc series.

the elite series i think it is of the first link is good tho.

if you can find one, the older MXA series of mtx is pretty descent, i had both mxa4004 and mxa6001 for the longes ttime and i beat on them so bad and never had an issue, sold em for a pretty penny also.

i currently am running three exile amps, x2400.1, and 2 x600.2, ive not had an issue, but they do have a pretty price tag on them.

i used to sell at Future shop and we always had good experience with rockford p300-1
NEW ROCKFORD FOSGATE PUNCH AMP P300-1 MONO AMPLIFIER - eBay (item 130304697053 end time Jun-04-09 16:19:57 PDT)

good price. powerful amps would suit thjose subs properly.

So yeah I'll design a box for you, and give you some amp suggestions. My other computer just [shizzle] the bed, and thats the one I have the subwoofer box modeling software on, so that wont be in the next few days, but I'll design a box for you quite soon eitherway.
sorry to be off topic, but what program do you use to design boxes.

i have a decent setup atm but i think i want to change up the design of my trunk this summer so i will want to be building some new boxes so i can get a better design there.

lemme know. or maybe you can help me design a trunk.
 

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^ I use Bass Box Pro 6. I used to have BoxMod too, but I lost that pirated version.

What really helps is being able to understand the specs and numbers the program gives you. That is everybit as vital as having the program. Then you can customize boxes to work with the internal airspace of a vehicle, or how to judge how good a sub is: etc etc etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Actually I was thinking if you'd like to design a box for me to kill some time I've been thinking about putting one sub on each side of the trunk all the way back, cause there's that little alcove area there. I thought would be a good spot because I'd still have maximum cargo capacity.
 

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thx man... im gunna check some of those out ...

if i find a version of boxmod would u like me to give it to u ?
 

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^ please do. The group delay and step response graphs on that program were excellent.
 
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