I had the preveous version of that amp and I hated it because of over heating. But I have heard they have fixed that problem and my friend has it and he swears by it. i personally don't like asian amps but that is just a personal preference. I like american made amps.})
What are you planning on pushing with the 707. I work in a car stereo shop, and I only use alpine components in my car. I swear by V12 amps, but they can sometimes be underpowered. The ratings they give you are pretty accurate, but you might wanna jump to 757 if the subs are power hungry.
I've got the 757, and am running it a 2 ohms, gets a little warm if my deck is cranked all the way up for a long time, but nothing to worry about, if you do get a v12, don't skimp on the cables for it, like the power or the ground, these amps are power hungry, but they deliver huge power, so its worth it. I swear by V12's
i work at a shop too, and have had dozens of v12's
first off no Alpine amp should over heat unless you are on a 13 hr road trip in the summer with no A/C ...
The amps are intended to run at a 4-ohm mono load or a 2-ohm stereo load,... no less of an impedence, that is why your amps are getting to hot
also you dont drive your car with the gas pedal to the floor constantly ( I Hope not at least) , so likewise dont beat the hell out of the amp by having the gain cranked to the max, with the Q-factor all the way up, and loudness from the deck on!!
I am running my amp at 2 ohms stereo (1+2) bridged, but the gain is at nominal, my line voltage, is at 8 volts, and my parametric eq is off, if i want that extra thump i have an epicenter, but it is almost never on, is this a bad way for my amp to run, or is it just heating up because of the 2 ohm load?
well if you are running it at 2 ohms stereo than you are fine, but that also means that it is not bridged,
bridged is when you take the Left positive and Right negative speaker outputs terminals to your drivers!!!, ( Mono)
Stereo is just Left positive and negative to one speaker, and Right positive and negative to another!! (Stereo)
double check your load Dex, and tell me if it is either bridged or stereo, can only be one or the other!!,
as for the epicenter, i would use it if you want the extra thump, thats what it does, it doubles the decibel level of the signal for each ocatave that it goes down... for example middle C' on a piano, is at 0db's , then if you go down to the next lower C, it would be +3db's of signal (bass) increase!!
And you should only have the line voltage set at 2 volts, unless your cd player is an upper end model and puts out 4 volts, or even if you have the epicenter you have is a line driver as well and i generates 8 volts but other than that lower the line level voltage on the amp!!!! , all of these suggestions will greatly vasten the life of your amp and the over all sound quality!! trust me!!!
the amps are 2 ohm bridged (pos to pos neg to neg on both) and it sounds just great. I use a pld to get to 8 volts but only when i am really wanting that extra sound. Other than the the deck outputs at 4 volts but my amp seems to run just fine w/o any problems, well 1 minor one the power led doesn't come on, called alpine they said it is like a 20 dollar piece, but won't affect the amp, but it runs just great, and the gain is set at the nominal level (described by alpine)
I've had to 2 V12 amps (Until it was stolen) and they performed very well. Never overheated even when turned right up. They have very low distortion levels and each amp is certifed to give the specified RMS rating and more.
every amp from a reputable manufacturer has those, we call them birth certificates, however the amp performs a little less then what the certificate says because most are tested at a 50hz constant tone w/ 14.4 volts constant. so i would count on your amp providing about 80-85% of the certificate wattage!!!
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