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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well guys I was just thinking about putting in an switch connected to a normally closed 100 amp {or bigger} realy to isolate my alternator ,to increase horse power {or more correctly reduce load}.I'd only use it for short drags at lights and such. I know the difference to the power will not be enormous but ..
Has any one tried it before ?
Can you think of any problems it may cause {perhaps with the engine management computer }
Do you think It's a good or bad idea overall?
Mr. MX6
 

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Sounds like a great idea, and apparently is done in some honda's stock. ideally, i'd want to set it up so it always "switched off" the alternator at wot (perhaps taking it's que from the tps?). That way, no switch to play with (and accidently leave on :) ) and it's there when you need it. I think it was hot 4's that did this mod on a honda and managed to gain an extra 3kw (4hp) atw just by taking the load off the alternator, not a bad mod for a free. Unforunatly, i've never been able to figure out how to do it, or if it will upset the ecu. in the article, they just had the switch cut the "sense" line, dunno what that is in our cars.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Couldn't you just interrupt the load wire from the alternator?
And not worry about finding the "interrupt"
I have performed this mod on lower Tec engines {no cpu}
and It worked perfectly...
Any way that's my question, how's it going to affect the cpu?
My brothers Lexus's alternator went on him 3 weeks ago and he could still drive it the cpu every now and again flashed up a little message on his dash to let him know that it wasn't working ,, but that is all the apparent effect {except for the battery going flat}..
Maybe Ill just give it a go ..Na! more research required me thinks....
 

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I believe you can create something which when the vehicle runs at high revs would slowly cut off the load on the alternator. Something incorporated with the electronic rev tachos.

I personally wouldnt F#@K with the electronics of the vehicle, nothing worse than a surge of current to shoot through the comp for you to blow the sh!t up...another costly repair/replacement.

I assume the constant increase & decrease in alternator load isnt a good thing for any electrical/electronics component of your vehicle. How long before a surge of somesort developes??

Just like when you flick on and off a light switch ever noticed the pretty blue sparks you can make...same difference.
 

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Your ECU would chuck a spastic everytime you use it. It will have to go into "Limp" mode until power is restored. Your voltage will drop and you will loose power. Not worth it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Well I tried out this battery isolator thing {I know, I know I... just won’t listen and} I temporally connected it up to an 180A isolator/ relay and I could honestly fell the difference .It was, as expected, a mild but satisfactory improvement, So I‘m going to do it permanently.
I decided to interrupt the output from the alternator rather than the field winding.
I figure that as long as I am careful and only switch the load on/off when the motor is at low revs, or of this will reduce the risk of a spike ...I was also thinking of looking into getting one of those surge arresters designed to protect the cpu when you jump start a car, and permanently connecting it to the system.
O.K. now for the question...On the dashboard to the right of the steering wheel we have a selection of switches.....Cruse control/ “a blank”/ driving lights/ dimmer for dash lights/led for alarm.
Does any one have something factory fitted in the blank position?
I was hoping to find out what the switch was intended for? Because I was hopping to pick up the wires from loom and divert them for my relay {the plug and wires are behind the blank}, just to keep the wires concealed in the engine bay.
Thank guys
Mr. MX6
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Can't argue there!!
Ric what does your dash switches setup look like?
PS thanks for the RX8 info!!!
 
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