[Guest]

again my buddy has the 89 lx...the stock 70 amp alternator is gettin killed. he has changed it 3 times. he wants to know if it would be possible to take a mazda b series trucks alternator out and throw it in his....would it fit and they are significantly bigger...maybe 110 amps...any and all suggestions are welcome for this one.

 

[anarchyx34]

Not sure if it will fit, but how the hell did he go through 3 alternators? They seem to last forever!

 

[Guest]

he has a system...2 jl w-0's and a amplifier that draws 30A current with a cap and his headlights dim when bass hits. blew 3 alts so far....

 

[anarchyx34]

Odd. I have the same subs, and my 2 amps combined take more than 30a. I dont have a cap either and there's no dimming. Maybe he should get a bigger cap.

 

[Guest]

the cap is a 1/2 farad.....the amp is a 99-2000 model...draws 25A when running stereo, and 30A when running 2 ohm mono.us acoustic 2100 the amp isnt specified to push out a 2 ohm load. it is rated 100x2 rms @ 4 ohms stereo, 150x2 @2 ohms stereo, 300x1 @ 4ohm mono, and 450x1( guessing ) @2 ohms mono. the power and ground wires are 4 guage....fuse under the hood is a 60 i think. the alt in it now is brand new. the batt is brand new. the cap is brand new and was charged for 30 min before use. any suggestions?

 

[magik8]

It sounds to me like you're not doing something right. If the amp isn't specified for a 2 ohm mono load, that probably means you shouldn't be running it that way! Try to stay away from those 2 ohm loads... they really tax your amp and alternator, and can make the bass sound muddy. I have two '99 model Rockford Fosgate amps (400a4 and a 500a2, 100W X 4 and 250W X 2, respectively), and have had them for 2 years, and still haven't killed any alternators! My headlights only dim when I really crank on the bass (2 RF XLC 12's in the trunk, 4 ohm mono load on the 500a2 amp for the subs). From my own personal experience, those US Acoustics amps are cheap and sound like shit, and could be the root of your problem. My main point is that you shouldn't be killing alternators with only 1 amp.... don't put a 2 ohm load on that amp, and you'll probably have better luck. If you need a 2 ohm load to get the sound you want, buy a bigger (and hopefully better) amp.

 

[Guest]

try this

im runnning about 1000 watts with my orion amp and my phoenix gold amp

70 amp ac delco alternator, OPTIMA YELLOW TOP BATTERY, 1 farad cap

no problems whatsoever, even with lights on and 750 watts of bass pounding on my ground zero sub

i highly recommend the OPTIMA YELLOW top batteries, very nice
and u need 1 farad for 1000 watts at least, not sure how much ur running
make sure u havent jigger rigged the system either or it wont be efficient
i went out and bought all phoenix gold hookups (dist blocks, circuit breaker, 4 gauge wire, zeropoint battery terminal, etc) it makes a big difference and maximizes efficiency

yea like they said also, if ur amp cant handle 2 ohm mono, i wouldnt run it that way, my phoenix gold can do it easy 2 ohm mono, but im only pushing 1 sub

if hes running 2 ohm mono, there will be a shitload of current draw, and if the amp sucks then it will be less efficient and draw even more current then say my phoenix gold to put out the same power

but if the amp hasnt died yet and isnt getting extremely hot, then upgrade the electrical system with an AC delco alternator, a larger cap, and an OPTIMA battery and ull have no probs

 

[kennymx6]

Yea, something just doesn't sound right. I have a BOSS 5 channel amp, with my two 10s running at 2 ohms. The amps specs are: 80w(4 ohm) RMS x 4 + 300w(2ohm) RMS x 1. I believe that my amp uses 2 30amp fuses. My headlamps do dim a little. But it isn't that bad. I haven’t had any problems with my alternator. But I do have to be careful not to play my stereo for too long with out the car running.