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Discussion Starter #1
Well, I think I've kept everyone in suspense long enough. I've finally gotten around to taking some pictures of my car. You'll have to forgive the quality of some of the pics, though. The camera cost me $4.99 with a fillup at Sunoco, and what I saw through the viewfinder had seemingly little to do with what the actual photos show. Nonetheless, I think they turned out pretty well, and I hope my artistic vision comes across.

Love it? Hate it? I welcome all feedback. I do ask however, that if you do have any criticisms, please make them constuctive. Don't just tell me that something sucks, tell me why it sucks and what you would suggest I do to improve said suckiness.

Alright then, enough of my jabberin'. On with the show!!

http://y42.briefcase.yahoo.com/mxrated2000/


:cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Sorry, but Yahoo won't seem to let me display the pictures in the proper order. No biggie, they're just a bit random right now.
 
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hey

my name is jorge, and i saw your post and pics of
your car. It looks hot man, mad props. I have one
question.. how did u install that intake? who did it
for you? and where did u get the stuff? cuz i have the
same exact car as you have, (1994 black mx 4banger
automatic) Like 2 weeks i put in a weapon R intake
CAI, and that was the worst thing i put in for my
car.. I lost all my accelaration, i was idling like
mad, my rpms were high as hell even though i was going
10 mph.. and sometimes it stalls. this all happenned
when i put in my CAI from weapon R. I dunno if i
should put back the stock intake or do what you did.
did ur intake give u any HP? k man thanks for hearing
me out i hope i can hear from you soon.

peace,
Jorge
 

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those taillights... WOW. pleeease... tell us how you did that!
 

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Grill Inserts...

Please send me an email and let me know how you installed those mesh inserts into the grill....and how much you payed for them...I know where to get them, it is only a matter of installing them...please send me an email ASAP at [email protected]...thanks cya:cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for your kind words guys. I'll adress your questions one at a time.

BOWDWN:The taillights were pretty simple. I assume you guys know how to remove the taillight assembly, so I won't go into that. After I took them off, I made circle templates of various sizes out of contact paper and stuck the circles on where I wanted to mask off the light. I then sprayed the lenses with primer so light wouldn't shine through. After that dryed, I hit them with a couple coats of Testors Black Pearl enamel spray paint. Once that dryed, I removed the contact paper circles. I then cut circles of the same size out of windshield tint material. It comes in a strip about 6 feet long and is not too dark. Then I stuck the tint circles over the coresponding circles on the light. The material is fairly adhesive, so it wasn't much trouble to make it stick, but I did have to wrestle with it a bit to get it to conform to the curve on the amber part of the light. Finally, I sprayed the whole thing with two coats of clear. That's it! I wanted to mask the lights, but I didn't want to get involved with vinyl, that's why I painted them. The only problem is that it's a rather permanent alteration. I don't believe the paint could be removed without damaging the lens, so keep that in mind if you do this.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
On to the grille...

Roach and Mik:

The grilles were a bit more difficult. I started by going to the Home Depot and picking up stainless steel gutter guards. Stainless is very important. The pack cost about six dollars if I remember correctly, and you get 4 or 5 panels in a pack. The panels themselves are approximatly 9" x 2 1/2'. To get the correct shape, I took a piece of cardboard and held it behind the grille openings while I traced around the openings with a marker. I then cut out the cardboard templates. You then want hold the cardboard on the grilles and trace around the cardboard to transfer the shape. You should leave about an inch of extra space around the lines on the grilles for the smaller side openings, as they will be mounted behind the opening. The center grille will have to be exact. This will require a lot of trial and error to get the right fit. You need to make the grille curve upwards, not straight across, as the opening is curved as well. I'm afraid I can't describe exactly how large and what shape you should make it, as it took a good amount of experimenting on my part to make it fit. Infact, it's still not perfect, but it's damn close. To cut the grilles, I just used a pair of wire snips and cut along the lines. This is a VERY tedious process, and takes forever. Unless you have a Dremel or something. That should make quick work of it. BE CAREFUL. The grilles are EXTREMELY sharp, especially on the edges you just cut. I managed to cut my hands to ribbons during this project, so I might recommend some kind of protective gloves. To keep things from catching on the grilles, and to keep them from scratching the paint, I bent all the edges to an angle, as you can see in the picture. OK, on to installation.
For the side grilles, they are pressure fit on the tabs the the "foglight blanks" mounted on. You know what I mean, the things that are in place of where the fogs would be on an LS. The blanks come out easily. They are held on tabs that have little metal bracket thingies that push on. You'll see when you get down there. Save the metal thingies. I lined up the grilles where I wanted them to sit, and I marked the location of each tab on the grille with a marker. I the cut little openings in the grille to corespond with the tabs. Then I just pushed the grilles on from behind, and replaced the little metal bracket thingies. You can kind of see what I'm talking about in the picture. On to the center grille.

Now the gutter guards came with little brackets that clip onto what ever your attaching the grille to. I used these to clip onto the top and bottom of the grille opening. I also used some fine aluminum wire to tie the grille onto the upright slats in the opening. One thing, in order for the grille to follow the curve of the opening, you'll need to put some kind of a spacer inbetween the grille and the bottom of the center upright slat. Get creative here. I used a big black binder style paperclip, the kind with the two silver tabs, and the black clamp thing. Any idea what I'm talking about? Anyway that's what I used.

The grilles have proven to be very durable. I've taken the car through many carwashes, and the brushes never get caught on or bent the grilles.

So, good luck, be patient, and be careful. When you start to get frustrared (and you will), that is when accidents happen. This is a project that just requires trial and error. I made at least two sets of grilles before I got it right.

Next: The intake...
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
The intake

Thanks for the props Jorge, let's see if we can't get you fixed up.

First of all, was the Weapon R a true Cold Air Intake, i.e. it pulled air in from under or outside the car, or was it an underhood "shortram" intake? If it was underhood, one of your problems is that you are pulling in hot air from the engine bay, and probably losing horsepower compared to your stock airbox. I believe the figure is 1% hp loss for every 10 degrees increase in intake temperature. Secondly, what is the size of the intake pipe? Conventional wisdom would say that the bigger the pipe is, the more airflow into the engine, the more power. Bigger is not always better however. If the pipe flows more air than your engine is capable of pulling, you will lose power too. When the pipe is too big, you lose the resonace charge effect of the air being accelerated through the pipe. You might have more room for air to flow through, but it's flowing slowly. Picture water flowing at high presure through a garden hose. Now take the same stream of water and put it in a firehose. The hose is much larger, but now the water is running at a much lower pressure, and therefore a much lower velocity. This would account for your high revs and loss of torque. Most commercially available intakes are between 2.5" and 3.5". This is fine for more powerful, higher displacement cars which demand better breathing, but for our application, an otherwise stock 4 cyl, I found that a 2" pipe is ideal.

The pipe that I used is 2" PVC plumbing from the Home Depot. Keep in mind that 2 inches refers to the inner diameter of the pipe. The outer diameter is actually around 2.5". So when you are looking for a filter, make sure to get one with a 2.5" inlet. One 10 foot length of pipe is around 3 dollars, and you'll need 2 90 degree bend elbows too, around 80 cents a piece. In addition, you'll need a rubber pipe connector (the part with the two ring clamps). This is about 4 dollars.
Finally, unless you can reuse the filter from your Weapon R, you'll need to buy a filter. I ordered a K&N cone filter from auto zone for about $55. This will be the most expensive part of the project. The part number was RU-3560. RU refers to a rubber endcap on the filter, you can get a chrome end cap as well, same price.

I'm not sure how much of your stock induction system you had to remove to install your Weapon R intake, but for my CAI, I removed everything back to the MAF. There is a plastic snorkle piece that fit into the stock airbox. You want to keep this and attach the intake with the rubber connector. It is a perfect fit. You'll need to drill a hole in the pipe for the airflow sensor to screw into. Make sure you drill the hole a little small so the sensor will thread in securely and be air tight. You will also need to cut a piece out of the plastic splashguard apron underneith the car for the filter to stick through. From here, you need to cut the pipe to the proper lenghts. Unfortunaly, I didn't take any exact measurments when I did this, but it should be pretty obvious how long each piece should be. You'll need three sections. The first piece comes straight from the MAF, followed by a 90 degree bend toward the drivers side, then another pipe, about 6 inches long, followed by another 90 degree bend towards the ground. There is a cavity large enough to feed the pipe through. The length of the third pipe will depend on how low you want the filter to hang. I don't suggest letting it hang more than 2 or so inches down, or you risk water ingestion should you hit a puddle, or ripping the filter off on a speed bump. I held the pieces togeter with 2 screws at each joint. I don't think that the screws protruding into the airstream are large enough to cause any turbulance, and it's peace of mind that the pipes are held together securely. The last thing you want is to have the thing fall apart at speed. Finally, I put a bead of fingertip caulking around the ends of the elbow joints, just to ensure an airtight seal. You'll have to install this intake one piece at a time, and the filter has to be installed from underneith the car. So you'll have to attach the filter to the last section of pipe, and attach the second elbow to the top of the pipe, so you can join the pieces once you feed it up in to the engine bay.

One important thing to remember is to pull a towel through each section of pipe after you cut it, to remove any plastic shavings that were created while sawing. You don't want little bits of plastic being sucked into your fuel injectors. ;) The fabrication and installation should not take more than an hour or two. But take your time, and make sure everything is secure.

If all goes right, you will notice an increase in hp and torque. I don't have any dyno tested numbers, but I'd feel safe in saying I'm getting about 5 or 6 more hp, and maybe 5 lb/ft of torque. It definatly pulls harder under acceleration and holds onto revs better as well. Not to mention it sounds pretty cool too. It can be a little monotonous driving at a constant speed around the city, but when you open it up, you get a really nice roar from the air rushing in. You can even hear it sucking air while idling.
So to answer your questions:
Home Depot and AutoZone, I did it myself, and about $65 bucks all told.

Now be aware that this configuration does leave your filter vulnerable too the elements. However, I have driven many times in the rain and have not had any problems. During the winter, I plan to remove the lower section of the intake and place the filter at the end of the upper section under ther hood. I just don't want to risk it on snow.

Well, I hope this clears things up for you. If you have any questions, feel free to email me or post a followup here. Now if you'll excuse me, I need to stop typing before I get carpal tunnel and my fingers fall off.

Jason
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
PS

I added one more pic that I'd forgotten to include initially. It's a side angle shot.
Sorry to the admins if my previous postings would have been better suited to a forum other than the pic post section.
 
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Hey Iceman, I read your inquiry about your Weapon-R intake. MX-rated is right in every detail. You really need a true cold air intake. I used to have a 1994 MX-6 4 banger and I had the same problem. The thing is that my engine was in horrible condition because I raced it too much. In reality, you can not hook up an engine that is already messed up. The concept is to hook up an engine that can handle all of your mods. That's why I upgraded by buying 1997 MX-6 V6. Hope it works out.
 
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cool

Thanks for the Vital Info Mx-rated, yeah i have a Weapon R Short Ram, I hope this works out.. I wanna go to Home Depot and do that project. But how do I know if my engine is beat up?? Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Iceman

There are a few things to check to see if your engine is "beat up". First of all, how well have you maintained it? Regular oil changes? Changed your belts? Secondly, how does it run? Smooth idle? Does is vibrate or shudder under acceleration? Any smoke form the tailpipe? How's your compression? You can check it by removing the oil cap while the car is idleing. If the idle speed drops, you have good compression. Just be sure to cover your eyes and hands if you do this. These engines have been known to run well over 200,000 miles. So as long as it hasn't been really abused, and some basic maintainence has been done, it should be in good shape!
 
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hey

Hey Mxrated,

I finally got that piece of shit weapon R intake out, I put in the stock intake in. Well I think i got my accelaration back but not all of it, but im kinda stalling at 3rpm when i drive... what do u think it is? when i rev the engine at 3 rpm it goes "pluck pluck" from the exhaust. I dont know what it is. Do you think its the air flow ratio? Thanks..
 

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Your the man

I put in the grill.. looks sweet. That was a great idea. My fingers are all cut up i didnt wear the gloves haha. Ill try and get some pics up here and you can tell me if it looks like i did it right. Im on to the clear corners now. Thanx man.
 

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tailights

I am interested in who amkes those taillights im lookin for euro lights for head and tail lights i found the head lights but the tailights are a bitch help me out
 
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