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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have been running an ordinary bleeder style boost controller for well over a year now with NO TROUBLES. The bleeder style is a plain brass T valve from Home Depot, nothing special. It has an adjustment valve on top and all the way closed gives me 6 psi, an 1/8 turn gives me 8 psi and so on and so on. If I turn it half way, I get an even 14 psi with NO SPIKE, it stays exactly where I set it.

ADD Ball And Spring:

I got a ball and spring boost controller from another member who purchased it on E Bay, he said that he had no problems with it but didnt use it for long.

I installed it today and from what I can tell, I don't like it. I took it apart to look at the spring, which to a fingers compression, doesnt feel too stiff OR too weak. It is the same boost controller that everyone is selling on EBay. I know that it is something that will need to be played with to get the right setting, but I spent more than a half an hour driving and stopping and re-adjusting, only to come up with one thing.....I have to watch my boost gauge so I don't boost past 16 psi. I tried what appears to be the softest setting, swept passed 16 psi. Screwed it all the way in, wanted to go past 16 psi. basically the only thing that I like about it is that boost seems to come a little harder? It's like it actually builds up? Can someone explain the difference between the ball and spring and the bleeder as far as "tricking the wastegate"?

What would make a difference as far as a spring that was too loose or too tight? I know that there has to be some sort of relevance as to how the wastegate opens, it just seems like having a spring that is too tight would add stress to the turbo because it has pressure that wants to get out but can't?

I never had a problem with my bleeder:shrug:
 
G

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You need a firmer spring, your stock boost is overwelming it.

The ball and Spring controller stays shut until the boost crushes the spring (Depending on the position of the adjustment screw, it makes it easier/harder to crush the spring)

Because of this its either On boost/ or Off, which gives it a nice response.

The advantage of the Ball & Spring style is that because no boost is bleeded off, you have less turbo lag and you get that "Boost building up feeling".

I usually run a 30lbs (roughly 2 bar) to crush spring, available from any hardware store.

EDIT: I got to thinking about it, and why don't you double check to make sure you don't have the connections on the MBC backwards...Doing that will do what your describing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
yeah I noticed that once it starts boosting, it stays boosting for longer, I don't get that quick bleed off when boosting like I did with the bleeder (DUHHHH :lol: )

I remember reading one of your posts about spring rate which lead me to believe that you didnt need a spring that was TOO stiff, but definately not one too LOOSE, I figured I was somewhere in the middle by the way that my fingers felt crushing the spring, it isnt flimsy like bic pen spring, but isnt the stiffest of springs either.

When I was trying to source parts for a ball and spring from home depot, I ran into a spring dilemma. I thought that some springs seemed WAY too stiff, guess I was wrong? by 30 lb, do you mean a 30 pound spring? From what I remember I tried crushing a spring that was 12-16 lbs and it seemed WAY too stiff?

what would be the signifigance of using a spring that is TOO STIFF, how would you know? It seems like using one that is too stiff would be worse than one that is too loose, it seems like with a stiff one, there would be too much pressure trying to escape?
 
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The stiffer the spring the harder it is for the boost pressure to crush it and open the valve the wastegate acutator.

On a 30 lb spring, it would take approximatly 30 psi (or 2 bar) of boost to crush it, obviously you wouldnt want to run that, thats why you can adjust the spring by partially crushing it with the adjuster screw.

Pick up a 15lbs and 30lbs spring and see how that works.
 
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I built one, but haven't tested it (no more mx-6). I also want to put it all in a housing so it looks nice, but I havent found a cheap way to do that yet.

Want to build your own?

http://www.thedodgegarage.com

Check out their 2-stage controller, Mine was similar, except I used two Ball and Spring MBC's instead of a Ball and Spring and Grainger Valve/Chec valve.

The hardest part is finding solinoids, I didnt want to sell mine using junkyard dodge turbo solinoids, and the one I found (after a long search) was $40, adding a lot more to the overhead....
 
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