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My tensioner bolt on the upper belt has stripped at the top end of the bolt that holds the pulley. I cannot turn the bolt at all. The pulley is stuck in a position that is too high for the belt. I need to cut the bolt. Has anyone experienced this before?

Does anyone know if I can I buy only the bolt and the part at the top of the tensioner bolt that holds the pulley?
 

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is this the altenator pulley? if u can get a pair of vice grips onto it u might be able to turn it. i'm sure hughes46 will be able to help u get a replacement.
 

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Not the alternator pulley. It's the upper belt for the power steering and water pump. The bolt is completely bound. Vice grips will not turn the bolt. I have to cut it out somehow.
 

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Same thing happened to me, only on the one for the alternator belt. (I assume you did loosen the 17 mm locknut on the pulley.) I blamed it on Canadian rust, and am surprised it happened in Florida.

Here's what (I think) you can do: the whole tensioner assembly is bolted to the engine block with two 12mm bolts (they are on two corners of the triangular steel frame). Those two bolts will come off easily. Then you *ought* to be able to remove the whole assembly (removing the pulley wheel first may help (or may not be needed).

I have done this with the other tensioner, and it's a very tight squeeze, but can be done (the frame is in the way). I have not tried to do it with the lower tensioner, but my guess is that it should be easier.

When you have got it off the car, you can really soak some penetrating oil on that long bolt, really get a pair of big vice-grips on it, put some heat on it, and free it up (worked for me eventually). Or replace it, but they are not cheap at the dealer. If you do free it up, you can weld (or just epoxy resin) a larger nut over the stripped 10mm bolthead.
 

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Same thing happened to me, only on the one for the alternator belt. (I assume you did loosen the 17 mm locknut on the pulley.) I blamed it on Canadian rust, and am surprised it happened in Florida.

Here's what (I think) you can do: the whole tensioner assembly is bolted to the engine block with two 12mm bolts (they are on two corners of the triangular steel frame). Those two bolts will come off easily. Then you *ought* to be able to remove the whole assembly (removing the pulley wheel first may help (or may not be needed).

I have done this with the other tensioner, and it's a very tight squeeze, but can be done (the frame is in the way). I have not tried to do it with the lower tensioner, but my guess is that it should be easier.

When you have got it off the car, you can really soak some penetrating oil on that long bolt, really get a pair of big vice-grips on it, put some heat on it, and free it up (worked for me eventually). Or replace it, but they are not cheap at the dealer. If you do free it up, you can weld (or just epoxy resin) a larger nut over the stripped 10mm bolthead.
Need more detail on how to get to the A/C and Alt belt tensioner. I just stripped the head off the long bolt and was gonna tap it out but this seems like it could work. Anyone have experience?

PS: As you can see I searched, thats why the bump for the old thread.
 

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I am having the same problem with the same part right now... except i didnt strip the head on my bolt..... just use a bolt extractor to take it out(like a socket with teeth).
I removed the entire tensioner, and im leaving it soak in penetrating lube for a few hours or so, then i'll try again to loosen the lock nut on the tensioner pulley.
Also, does anyone know if the lock nut is left or right hand thread? (i tried turning both ways, but the damned thing still wont move).

-Shawn.
 

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wow. odd that it's so difficult. it shouldn't be rusted, but you never know. did you shoot it with some penetrating oil [like pb blaster]?
My problem with them has usually not been rust per se but galling.

I'm a little confused how or why xtreme17 took off the whole tensioner without loosening the hold down. Should be much easier to do on the car, and unless I recall incorrectly it is right hand thread.
 

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I was changing my timing belt, and when I was putting everything back together my tensioner bolt broke too. I went to a couple auto-parts stores with no luck, and called a couple dealerships. The part was scarce. I was able to get the part from Mike Hughes. The thread with info on contacting mike is here

http://www.mx6.com/forums/seller-ratings/128896-hughes46-mike.html

pics of my tension bolt are below, are we talking about the same part?



 

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Following the advice previously, I undid the whole tensioner assembly, theres a LONG 12mm bolt on top that you cant slide out and a short 12mm on the bottom just above the A/C compressor and tucked inside a little bit. Once you undo the bottom bolt you can just take out the assemly with the top bolt in it.

As for what I did with the stripped 10mm?





I just welded a 15mm nut over the stripped head of the bolt! Worked like a charm. :tup:
 

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I just welded a 15mm nut over the stripped head of the bolt! Worked like a charm. :tup:[/quote]
Nicely done...:tup:
It's a real pain to get that tensioner out, so jacked the engine up an inch or so, and it slid right out without any problems. I also had the passenger side engine mount off anyway, so that made it a bit easier lifting.
Mine is all back together from replacing the belts and water pump now, and im just gonna replace the fuel filter, and start 'er up.

-Shawn.
 
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