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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
A bit bored tonight so I'll ask what is the most nagging problem you've never been able to fix on your first generation MX6? I am not talking about a catastrophic issue like a blown engine or transaxle, more like a finicky gas gauge, cruise control or maybe a lighting issue. I know I've had more issues with non-working cruise control and maybe a lazy gas gauge than about any other problem I can think of. Other things I can think of are the electric fans and maybe the HVAC (A/C and heat) systems. Be safe and have a Happy New Year. 2021 can only be better than 2020.
 

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Heater core, ac compressor, wheel hubs going out and the steering, cv axle shafts, control arms and suspension always going out on this B lol
 

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Cant figure out how to get my cruse control working after mtx conversion
Are you still on the auto ECU and harness?
Did you jump the automatic harness connector/plug under the hood that sends gear position signals to the ECU so you can start the car? (inhibitor switch).
Did you jump the Neutral signal or the Park signal or the Drive signal.

If you left the entire cruise control system as is and didn't disconnect anything the only difference and thing that can cause cruise not to work on your swap is:

On an ATX system cruise control unit (Pin J) will get a 0volt signal in P park or N neutral.

At the cruise control unit under the dash one of the two middle wires in the plug will be Black with a Yellow stripe (B/Y) without alarm, or Green (G) with alarm. This wire gives the control unit an operational 12V signal. In P or N = 0V other ranges = 12V.

On the MTX system this wire is Light Green with Black stripe (LG/B) and is the clutch switch signal 0V when pedal pressed, 12V when not pressed.

The wire next to Pin J is Blue with a Red stripe (L/R) just so you know you are looking in the right place.

1- You need to check pin J for a 12V signal.
2- To test if this is your issue you need to supply 12V to pin J
3- Remove the B/Y or G wire spade connector from the plug, and wrap it in tape, take a female 6.35mm (.25")spade connector (you can use the larger speaker spade connector or the universal ones with plastic sleeve (just cut off the plastic).
Link to proper replacements: 170032-1 : FASTON Quick Disconnects | TE Connectivity
Crimp, crush or solder a wire to the spade connector and put it in the plug (pinJ wire). Connect the other end of the wire to a 12V source and test the cruise control system.
4- If the cruise control now works you have to decide if you want to simply keep the wire connected to a switched 12V source or wire it properly to the clutch switch.
Switched 12V = cruise keeps accelerating the engine when you press the clutch.
Clutch switch = Cruise disengages when you press the clutch.

There are 2 clutch switches, the lower one is for the stater (safety neutral) and the upper one is the clutch pedal status indicator switch (cruise/deceleration), if your upper switch isn't connected you need to run switched 12V+ to one side of the switch and connect your Pin J wire to the other side. With the ignition on, Pin J will get 12V with the clutch pedal up and 0V when the pedal is pressed.


This is info based on the 90+ model Bspec.
The wire from the automatic inhibitor switch is the same color on the Aspec 88-89 cruise unit but its 2nd from the edge on the lower row.
In the workshop manual all cruise test are done using a Mazda Factory SST device and the manual doesn't give the voltage or function of the Inhibitor switch wire at the cruise unit.
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
When I did my auto to manual conversion I was lucky enough to have a manual donor car so instead of jumping wires I changed out the inner firewall and main headlight harnesses and hooked everything back up as it if the car was always a manual. The only thing that doesn't work is the reverse lights as there's a broken wire some between the driver's side kick panel box and the connector.
 

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Ooh ooh, I have a few
-Water leaking into my trunk wells (made a separate post on this earlier if anyone has helpful ideas)
-Right rear tire has had a slow leak for years. Replaced the tire, didn't help. Replaced the valve stem, didn't help. The rim is a little scuffed but having replaced the tire myself (starter fluid and blowtorch method) it didn't seem damaged in a way that would affect the seal. No clue.
-Little whine under the hood that went away briefly around the time the distributor was replaced, but then came back. Maybe it's the alternator. Voodoo, man.
Most of my other issues are somewhere between "haven't gotten around to it yet" and "I know what the problem is but am too lazy to address it"
 

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Ooh ooh, I have a few
-Water leaking into my trunk wells (made a separate post on this earlier if anyone has helpful ideas)
-Right rear tire has had a slow leak for years. Replaced the tire, didn't help. Replaced the valve stem, didn't help. The rim is a little scuffed but having replaced the tire myself (starter fluid and blowtorch method) it didn't seem damaged in a way that would affect the seal. No clue.
-Little whine under the hood that went away briefly around the time the distributor was replaced, but then came back. Maybe it's the alternator. Voodoo, man.
Most of my other issues are somewhere between "haven't gotten around to it yet" and "I know what the problem is but am too lazy to address it"
As far as the leak in the trunk. I’d take a look at the taillights. I have a 626 hatchback and had to use a heat gun to take them out because they were sealed with some type of caulk. I used 3m weather stripping to reseal. I’m not sure about how the mx6 lights are sealed but I had a 626 sedan and that had actual foam gaskets.
 

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As far as the leak in the trunk. I’d take a look at the taillights. I have a 626 hatchback and had to use a heat gun to take them out because they were sealed with some type of caulk. I used 3m weather stripping to reseal. I’m not sure about how the mx6 lights are sealed but I had a 626 sedan and that had actual foam gaskets.
I forgot to mention it but I already sealed up the taillights as they were part of the leak. It's coming in through the (sunroof?) vents.
 

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I forgot to mention it but I already sealed up the taillights as they were part of the leak. It's coming in through the (sunroof?) vents.
No in the other thread you posted about the issue he said that the sunroof drain hoses could be clogged with debris allowing the sunroof tray to fill with water and leak down the trim into the trunk, however if this where the case water would shoot out of the sunroof liner onto the passenger and driver every time you brake heavy.
The rear vents on the outer molding are an unlikely candidate also, they house plastic ovals with a lip that overlaps the body metal, the outer vent stars below the oval so for this to cause water in the car the water would have to travel upward or the plastic oval would have to be cracked or there would have to be a hole in the body under the lower window trim. If the window or sunroof was leaking water in the trunk the rear deck lid upholstery would have water stains.

Do you have a spoiler?
Pull the trunk molding and inspect it for rust or debris, check the lip it sits on for rust and holes.
 

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No in the other thread you posted about the issue he said that the sunroof drain hoses could be clogged with debris allowing the sunroof tray to fill with water and leak down the trim into the trunk, however if this where the case water would shoot out of the sunroof liner onto the passenger and driver every time you brake heavy.
The rear vents on the outer molding are an unlikely candidate also, they house plastic ovals with a lip that overlaps the body metal, the outer vent stars below the oval so for this to cause water in the car the water would have to travel upward or the plastic oval would have to be cracked or there would have to be a hole in the body under the lower window trim. If the window or sunroof was leaking water in the trunk the rear deck lid upholstery would have water stains.

Do you have a spoiler?
Pull the trunk molding and inspect it for rust or debris, check the lip it sits on for rust and holes.
Yes spoiler, already checked the trunk seal and it holds fine.
I'll certainly take another look at the sunroof, but with the sunroof sealed and water sprayed into the exterior drains, I can pull back the trunk liner and see water slowly dripping in forward of the side well.
 

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Shitty window motors/regulators have always been a problem with me in the Mx6s I've owned...

Have had plenty of spare motors and have changed them all out - nope, they still didn't work!

The sunroof isn't any better either - not opening properly when its nice and sunny and not fully closing when it starts to rain heavily! Lol
 
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Shitty window motors/regulators have always been a problem with me in the Mx6s I've owned...

Have had plenty of spare motors and have changed them all out - nope, they still didn't work!

The sunroof isn't any better either - not opening properly when its nice and sunny and not fully closing when it starts to rain heavily! Lol
Window motors don't work or work slowly?
People in threads here have mentioned it on this forum, I have confirmed it a few times using a battery or booster pack to put a window up or down on an mx6 or 626 by removing the door panel unplugging the window motor and running power straight to it and the window goes up or down much faster than when using the widow switch. This means it's the ground or the positive or the switch that makes the window slow and not the motor.
 
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