Mazda MX-6 Forum banner

1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,605 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,

My brother's car, AV TX5 Turbo, seems to be having problems when braking. At times the pedal is firm, and then at times the pedal sinks down and the brakes have to be applied really firmly in order to pull the car up (i.e. REALLY DANGEROUS!)

Any suggestions? Anyone encountered the same issue before? It's got ABS too.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
550 Posts
sounds like you have a leak some where. had a similar problem.
could be a leaky caliper or master cylinder... try bleeding the brakes and if that doesnt help you might have to look deeper into it.
 
  • Like
Reactions: DQUIK1

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,355 Posts
SOmetimes if you have warped discs or dodgy wheel bearings, the shimmy of the disc rotor can push the pads apart while driving, then the pedal seems to go down a long way on the first application, then is firm on the second.

Warped rotors rarely make it as bad as you say, I'd be checking the bearings.

Many years ago, I had wheel bearings go on the rear of my car, I didn't think I needed to fix it urgently until one day I cam around a corner to find a queue of cars, and the brake pedal went to the floor, I reefed on the handbrake, and just managed to pull up in time.....bearings got changed that afternoon.

Bearing problems will be more noticeable after youve just drive around a corner.....if the brakes "drop" after cornering its almost definitely wheel bearings....
The fronts will be the culprits, I havent seen many rear bearings fail on a GD/AT/AV
 
  • Like
Reactions: DQUIK1

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,605 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The front right wheel bearing is stuffed. That could be the problem as ever since it's stuffed up and started knocking the brakes have been playing up.. It's just that it feels like a fluid problem.
Unplugged the ABS, problem is still there but not as bad, still playing up though. Bled brakes, swapped master cylinder, and swapped brake booster; all to no avail.
I might swap his wheel bearing/hub with mine and see if that fixes it. If so, then it's $300ish plus fitting for the bearing swap when he puts a new one in as I don't have a hydraulic press :tdown: you suck Ford/Mazda! Rip off!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,355 Posts
You should invest in a hydraulic press, theyre not that expensive....mine has paid for itself....

Still $300 sounds a bit over the top....Last time I had one done by someone else other than me, I bought the bearing kit from CBC for about $100, then it cost $60 to fit (with the hub off the car)

Some shops are a bit careless when its comes to bearing fitting, anyone who tells you that you need to tighten the axle nut to pull the hub in the rest of the way is having themselves on.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,605 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Have to buy a hub from Ford/Mazda, you're looking at about $250 retail I think? I can't get trade price there anymore as I'm technically out of the trade and the guys there don't know me. At Repco and Bursons I'm fine and I have a Repco card. :D Dealers are different though :tdown:
And the bearing I bought from CBC or SKF once for about $60.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,061 Posts
try ccheckign the pads fro champher and the slides.

you might have dry slides and it's allowing full face contact consistanly on the rotor.

but all other things mentioned still apply and all in one go can make a massive problem.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
752 Posts
My sisters 323 was doing the same thing, it was the master cylinder leaking
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
550 Posts
wheel bearing makes sence.. as mine you have to double pump to get decent pressure. as my wheel bearing is fubar
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top